Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

v0.31:Mechanic's workshop

2011-03-17T18:20:01Z

Darkstar: /* Notes */ Updated information on making a traction bench to include all the necessary parts, and not mention just a rope

{{workshop|name=Mechanic's workshop|key=t|job=Mechanics
|construction=
1 of
* {{L|Block}}
* {{L|Stone}}
* {{L|Wood}}
|construction_job=
* {{L|Mechanic}}s
|use=
* {{L|Stone}}
* {{L|Table}}
* {{L|Rope}}
|production=
* {{L|Mechanism}}s
* {{L|Traction bench}}es
}}{{av}}

The '''mechanic's workshop''' is a {{L|workshop}} which produces {{L|mechanism}}s out of stone. It is also used to construct {{L|traction bench}}es.

==Menu==
'''Mechanic's Workshop'''

*{{k|t}} : Make {{l|Rock}} {{l|Mechanism}}s
*{{k|R}} : Make {{l|Traction bench|Traction Bench}}

==Common Uses==
*Make {{l|Mechanism}}s to control {{l|floodgate}}s, {{l|trap}}s, etc.
*Make {{l|Traction bench}}es to equip {{l|Activity_zone#Hospital|hospital}} {{l|zone}}s.

==Notes==
{{l|Traction bench}}es require:
* a {{l|Rope}} (produced in {{l|Clothier's shop}}), or a {{l|Chain}} (produced in {{l|Metalsmith's forge}})
* a {{l|Table}}
* a {{l|Mechanism}}

==See Also==
*{{l|Doctor}}

{{Workshops}}

v0.31:Farming

2010-11-14T21:24:13Z

Darkstar: /* Subterranean Farming */ Farming bug still present. Can't farm underground except on muddy tiles, regardless of the tile type beneath

{{quality|Exceptional|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{AV}}

'''Farming''' is the action of growing {{l|crops}} for {{l|food}}, {{l|alcohol}} production and {{l|cloth}} manufacturing. While small forts can easily be sustained by plant gathering, {{l|hunting}} and trading, farming is vital to large settlements.

Farming is done at a '''farm plot''' building ({{k|b}}-{{k|p}}, resize with {{k|u}}{{k|m}}{{k|k}}{{k|h}}). It requires {{l|seeds}} and a worker with the "Farming (Fields)" {{l|labor}} enabled.

Depending on where the farm plot is constructed, different crops may be planted. Farm plots built {{l|above ground}} are not suitable for the crops grown on {{L|subterranean}} farm plots and vice versa. Note that the attributes {{DFtext|Inside |6:0:0}}, {{DFtext|Dark |0:0:1}}, {{DFtext|Outside|3:0:1}} and {{DFtext|Light|6:0:1}} are of no relevance.

See the article on {{L|crop}}s for details on the conditions needed to grow the available plants.

== Introduction to Farming ==

After building a farm plot building ({{k|b}}-{{k|p}}, resize with {{k|u}}{{k|m}}{{k|k}}{{k|h}}), you must select which crops to plant there.

Press {{k|q}} and move the cursor over the farm, you will see a list of crops you can select to grow in the current season. To move to plan for crops to be farmed in different seasons use {{k|a}},{{k|b}},{{k|c}}, or {{k|d}}. You can select a farm to be fertilized but starting out you won't have the necessary items to do so, and it's largely unnecessary.

You must have the appropriate {{L|seed}}s to plant a crop there. To easily see how many of each seeds you have you can go to the Kitchen menu {{k|z}} {{k|right}} {{k|Enter}}. {{L|Plump helmet}}s are a good beginning crop for a first cave farm, and {{L|wild strawberries}} are a good choice for outdoor fields. Check the {{L|crop}}s page for details on different seeds. Only some plants are edible so make sure the seeds you're using will produce food. It's often a good idea to pick a seed which produces a plant which can be {{L|brew}}ed. This will create {{L|alcohol}} and also give you a seed to plant again next season.

Instructing a plot to remain fallow{{k|z}} during a particular season will instruct dwarves not to plant in that plot during that season.

=== Subterranean Farming ===

To grow the six "dwarven" plants, including the {{l|plump helmet}}, you will need an underground farm plot. The seeds and spawn available to your dwarves at embark will only grow underground.

Underground farm plots must be placed on mud. Toady One says this is a bug but has not changed this behavior as of the latest version{{version|0.31.17}}.

Muddying the ground requires temporarily covering it with water: common methods include a bucket brigade or '''controlled''' flooding by temporarily diverting a river or pool, using a floodgate or door to stop the flow. You may also find a muddied area in a {{L|cavern}}, but note that each tile underneath the farm plot must be muddied. Most caverns have entire open areas which will be permanently covered in mud, but if you dig into the walls of a cavern or chisel away a pillar, the freshly cut floor area will not be muddied until you get it wet. Underground {{L|cavern}}s are dirty, and frequently contain {{L|Mud|piles of mud}} that are perfect for quickly setting up farms. However, given the wide variety of creatures found in caverns, you may want to take precautions. Consider keeping a {{L|squad}} close at hand to guard the farm, or walling off a muddied area for your dwarves' exclusive use.

Underground farming is not restricted to soil layers and caverns: underground floor of any material -- rough stone, smoothed stone, ore, gem -- can support subterranean farm plots once there is a layer of mud covering it. See {{L|irrigation}} for tips on getting the right amount of water to the farm plots.

=== Above Ground Farming ===
Above ground farming is basically the same as underground farming, with the simplifying distinction that above ground plots typically do not require preparations. However, there are some complications.

The first complication is that seeds cannot be chosen at embark. They can be bought from caravans ({{L|elves|elven}} or {{L|humans|human}}); or above-ground plants can be gathered using the {{L|Plant gathering}} designation, and then {{L|brewer|brewed}}, {{L|mill|milled}}, {{L|thresher|threshed}} or {{L|dining hall|eaten}} directly (depending on the plant) to produce seeds.

The second complication is that the farming must be done on {{L|soil}}. Typically, it is done above ground, which is dangerous (due to aggressive animals, ambushes and sieges). However, any land which has ever been exposed to sunlight becomes permanently marked as "above ground". So, if you have multiple Z-layers of soil, you can channel some above-ground land, remove the resulting ramps, then construct a floor above, where the surface once was. The (now dark and protected) lower soil will still be suitable for farming {{L|wild strawberry|wild strawberries}}, {{L|longland grass}}, {{L|rope reed}}, and anything else you may find.

Above ground farms built on rock layers (muddied or otherwise) will show the message "No seeds available for this location", and you ''will not'' be able to plant anything in them.

Some crops require a particular temperature range to grow; so although it may be possible to plant them in any season, to obtain optimal usage of farm plots it may be necessary to coordinate planting with seasonal temperature variations.

== Farm plots in action ==

Once a farm plot has been built and crops have been selected for the current season, dwarves with the {{l|growing}} labor enabled will begin planting the selected seed. The higher a Dwarf's grower skill in planting, the more plants will be harvested from each seed planted. The farming labor is fairly low in priority, so if you want a full time farmer, it is best to disable all other labors.

Plants take time to grow, depending on their type. Once a plant is fully grown, a dwarf will harvest it. By default, any dwarf will do this. Harvesting plants is not affected by any skill, although it provides a small amount of grower experience. Plants that remain in the field for too long will wither. These plants will eventually rot away, but do not currently due to a bug.{{bug|1280}}

Depending on the number of growers and their experience and the rate at which the plant grows, not all squares of large plots may be used.

{{Farming FAQ}}

== See also ==
* {{L|Irrigation}}
* {{L|Tile attributes}}
* {{L|Crops}}

{{Category|Buildings}}

v0.31:Irrigation

2010-11-14T21:14:38Z

Darkstar: /* via Buckets */ only the channeled tiles should be makred as POND. There is no debate, this is the behavior in DF from 31.17 and earlier.

{{quality|Masterwork|16:11, 14 August 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

Irrigation is the process of adding water to an underground or rock tile so that it can be {{L|farm plot|farmed}}. This is done by flooding the tile with {{L|water}}. Any amount of water will suffice but the less water, the better — farms cannot be built on any square containing water of {{L|water depth|2/7 or deeper}}. Tiles of depth 2/7 will flow into nearby tiles until the area is 1/7 if possible, so this is only an issue if deep water is placed in an enclosed area.

Once the water has evaporated or been allowed to flow away, the tile will remain muddied unless a {{L|construction}} is built over it. Viewing the tile will cause it to display 'a pile of mud', 'a small pile of mud', or 'a dusting of mud' in its contents.

Farms must be built on muddy tiles. Farms cannot be built on underground tiles (rock or soil) unless those tiles have been muddied. This is not the case for above ground farming, where you can {{L|gather plants}} and {{L|Still|brew}} them for alcohol or even farm in above ground soil with the gathered seeds. But underground farming is a generally quicker, safer and more reliable (and dwarven) way to gain {{L|food}} and {{L|alcohol}}. Plus, you can only embark with seeds for underground crops. So, it is useful to know how to irrigate with as little investment in workshops and mechanisms as possible.

Farms can be built on unsuitable ground but doing so will display a warning message. If even a single square of the farm is not irrigated, it will be unusable.

{{L|Magma}}, for obvious reasons, cannot be used to irrigate but can cause {{L|fun}}.

== Easy Irrigation ==

One obstacle to early irrigation is the time required to build mechanisms (which cannot be taken when {{L|embark|embarking}} and take time to set up). They can also be daunting to newer players and mistakes can result in floods or famine - common sources of {{L|fun}}. The methods below are designed to work without mechanisms.

=== via Murky Pool===

Most areas contain {{L|murky pool|murky pools}}, which provide one of the quickest, simplest methods of starting a farm. Digging out an area near a murky pool and draining the pool into it is an easy way to make the ground muddy and farmable.

You should first locate a pool near where you wish to put the farm. While any finite water source works, you need to drain the excess water somehow or allow it to [[evaporate]], so smaller pools are usually preferable. Once you find a good location, dig out the room and dig a tunnel that ends with only 1 tile between it and the pool. If you want to simply allow the water to evaporate after irrigation, the floorspace in the farm should about about 5 or 6 times that of the pool. Otherwise, you can dig another room out underneath the farm via stairs placed on the opposite side from the pool to drain the water after irrigation.

Finally, channel out the one tile between the tunnel and the pool and the water will flow in.

If you miscalculate the area, there are two possible outcomes, both easily solvable-

:* If the dug area is too large, some tiles will be left unmuddied. While muddying these squares is a lot of trouble and arguably not worth it, these tiles are perfect for seed stockpiles.
:* If the dug area is too small, there will be at least one tile of 2/7 depth. Until some of the water {{L|evaporation|evaporates}} (which will still happen, albeit slower, in the 1/7 tiles), you won't be able to farm it. However, unless you've drastically miscalculated, dwarves will be able to wade through the water and dig more tiles to expand the farm to the correct size.

=== via Buckets===

It is possible to irrigate an area by carrying water in {{l|buckets}} from virtually any source, such as a {{L|brook}}, a {{L|river}}, or a good-sized {{L|murky pool}}.

To do this, select a subterranean area to locate your farms. You must then dig out two identical rooms, one above the other. The bottom room is where your farms will eventually be built, and the top room is where the actual filling will occur. Once you have dug out both rooms, you will need to channel out the floor of the upper room, making sure to leave a walkway around the perimeter.

Once you've dug the {{L|channel|channels}} in the upper room, you should have something like this:

Top Floor
++++
+..+ legend
+..+ . = channeled tile
++++ + = floor

Bottom Floor
++++
++++
++++
++++

(If you haven't {{L|Dig|dug}} the farm level by this point, you will have down ramps in your channeled tiles. Tunnel out the z-level below, as that is where your farms will be. Also note that if you carve the channels on the surface, the below farm will be listed as Above Ground, restricting certain crops.)

Try to think of it like this: dwarves won't fill a pond that they are standing in. Therefore, you must dig another room above the farm and channel out the floor, so they can pour water ''down'' into the room.

Next designate an {{L|activity zone|activity zone}} over the channeled tiles on the upper room, and set it to {{L|pond|"pit/pond"}}. By default, the zone will be set as a pit. To change it to a pond, press {{k|P}} then {{k|f}}.

If you designate each channeled tile individually as its own pond, you can quickly muddy your planned farm tiles- as only one dwarf can fill a pond activity zone at a time. Another bonus of this method is that you can control the spread of the water very precisely (unlike all other forms of irrigation).

As each pond tile gets its first filling of water (bringing it to 1/7 depth), dezone that pond tile, leaving behind an exact match of mud on the floor below. This process creates "a dusting of mud" on the floor below, which is all that is needed to plant underground crops. Place your farm plots over just these muddied tiles.

When you are finished, the lower floor will look like the following:

++++
+mm+ legend
+mm+ m = muddied tile
++++ + = floor

You can vary the basic square to any rectangle, so long as it remains 2 tiles wide or 2 tiles long. Otherwise, your dwarves will not be able to reach the central tiles.

If you accidentally add too much water, you can wait for some of the water to evaporate or spread to nearby tiles. Even so, as long as you keep an eye on the dwarves and dezone that pond tile on the upper gallery as soon as it is no longer necessary, you shouldn't have any problems.

Other ways of creating an upper irrigation gallery and a lower resulting farm level are possible, but this is left up to the fortress designers to experiment with. This is simply a guide for players just starting out.

== Complex Irrigation ==
The following methods of irrigation take longer to build, but they are usually more reliable, look cooler and, of course, are more {{L|fun}}.

=== via Corkscrew Pump ===
This method ranks somewhere between easy and complex irrigation as it's set up relatively quickly while not necessarily looking as cool as the complex method. It needs a {{L|pump}} and a river/brook in a chasm though. A lake will do well too.

You start by digging out a tunnel of one tile and a rectangular room near the river exactly one level above the river. The floor of the room has to be at the same level as the surface of the river. It doesn't have to be walled on the side of the river as you'll need some open space for the water to get out. If you have dug it farther away from the river, you should dig another tunnel from the room to the water source so that the pumped in water can get out.

Secondly, at the end of the one tile wide tunnel you'll set up the pump. You'll need a free place next to the light green part of the pump for a dwarf to be able to operate it. It will only be operated once, so you don't need any axles or gears or waterwheels or whatever. Manual pump operation is all it takes.

After setting up the pump (whose dark green end has to be between the tunnel's walls) you can start pumping water into the room. If you have set up everything strategically smartly you should have a pump filling up the room with water. The water should flow through the room and out of it at the open side of the room. After having enough muddy ground tiles you can stop the dwarf from operating the pump and deconstruct it (the pump, not the dwarf!) if you like. After some time the water should have completely left the room or oozed away and you should have some beautiful muddy ground tiles to farm on.

You should also consider a bridge for the farmers to reach the farming plots. The bridge at the exit point of the water should be long enough so that the water won't flow over it and damp the ground at its far end. You can do without that second bridge though as you can deconstruct the pump after the irrigation. So there is already a passage for the farmers to get to the plots.

Good luck! Here's a diagram of this method:

{{diagram|spaces=yes|\
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]~ [#FFF]l[#FFF]e[#FFF]g[#FFF]e[#FFF]n[#FFF]d
▓...▓▓▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈ ▓ stone
▓.....[#880]%[#880]%[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~ . floor
▓...▓▓▓[#0F0].[#FFF]+[#FFF]+[#FFF]+ [#880]%[#880]% pump
▓...▓▓▓▓[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~ [#00F]≈[#00F]~ water
▓.......[#FFF]+[#FFF]+[#FFF]+ [#FFF]+ "bridge" (constructed floor tiles)
▓...▓▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~
▓▓▓▓▓[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~
}}

=== via Reservoir ===
[[Image:Irrigation1.png‎|thumb|right|A reservoir system which provides enough water for 8 fields. Upper level]]
[[Image:Irrigation2.png‎|thumb|right|The irrigated bottom level.]]
First you need a sufficient source of {{L|water}}. The best would be a {{L|brook}} or {{L|river}}, but it is also possible to use a bigger murky pool (it depends on how many fields you want to irrigate).

For every 7x7 farm plot you need
:* a [[floodgate]]
:* a [[hatch cover]]
:* 4 [[mechanism|mechanisms]] (for linking)
:* a [[door]]

You also need
:* 2 Mechanisms for the [[lever|levers]]
:* at least one additional door (if you have enough time to set up a wall or floodgate as well)

Use the following pattern:

{{diagram|spaces=yes|\
▓▓▓▓▓ ▓▓▓▓▓ [#FFF]l[#FFF]e[#FFF]g[#FFF]e[#FFF]n[#FFF]d
▓...▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓...▓ ▓ stone
▓.[#0FF]¢..[#888][#CCC]X.......[#888][#CCC]X..[#0FF]¢.▓ . floor
▓...▓▓▓▓▓.▓▓▓▓▓...▓ [#0FF]¢ floor hatch
▓▓▓▓▓▓[#FF0]1▓▓.▓ ▓▓▓▓▓▓ [#888][#CCC]X floodgate
▓[#FFF]<.[#888][#CCC]┼.▓ ▓▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈ [#00F]≈ water source
▓[#0FF]2▓▓.▓ ▓▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]≈[#00F]~ [#888][#CCC]┼ door
▓▓▓▓.▓▓▓[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~ [#FFF]< up stairs
▓▓[#FFF][#444]▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈▓▓ [#FF0]1 -> lever 1
▓▓[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]~▓▓▓ [#0FF]2 -> lever 2
▓[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]≈[#00F]~[#00F]≈[#00F]≈[#00F]~▓▓▓
upper level, plumbing}} 
{{diagram|spaces=yes|\
▓.[#FFF]t[#FFF]o.[#FFF]f[#FFF]o[#FFF]r[#FFF]t.▓ [#FFF]l[#FFF]e[#FFF]g[#FFF]e[#FFF]n[#FFF]d
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓...▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓ [#880]≈ farm plot
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓...▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓ [#888]═ stockpile
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓...▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓ (customized
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓[#888]═[#888]═[#888]═▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓ for seeds)
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#888][#CCC]┼[#888]═[#888]═[#888]═[#888][#CCC]┼[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓[#888]═[#888]═[#888]═▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓▓▓▓▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓
▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓ ▓[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈[#880]≈▓
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓ ▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓
lower level, farms}}

After your miners have dug the pattern, channel the tile under each hatch cover's location. Now place the hatch covers and link them to lever 1. After that you can place the floodgates and link them to lever 2. To start the irrigation, channel out the last tile to the river / murky pool. Pull the floodgate-lever to fill the reservoirs and pull it again when they are 7/7. Finally pull the hatch cover's lever and release the water to the lower level.

This reservoir contains 70 units of water (10x7). 9 units of water are lost to the ground of the reservoir (61 left). Roughly 10 units evaporate while spreading (~51). The water should be just enough to cover the whole farm plot and evaporate quickly.

{{Farming FAQ}}

40d:Maximizing framerate

2010-08-14T23:56:14Z

Darkstar: /* Dual Processors */ - Typo fix

{{quality|Masterwork|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
Dwarf Fortress is an extremely CPU-intensive application that currently requires a fast, modern machine ({{L|System_requirements|recommendations}}). The objective of this page is to help you reduce game lag, a crippling problem for many players.

Please mark all advice with the most recent game version it is known to work for. This game is under rapid development, Toady One clearly intends to reduce lag where possible, and so methods that worked in, say, v0.27.169.33g may not a few months later.

== Advice for v0.28.181.40d ==
There exists [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=50514 an accelerated version] of DF. It utilizes OpenGL much more effectively. You might want to give it a try. Due to it being an alpha of an alpha you can expect anything from wonders to utter fail.

=== OpenGL ===
* If framerate is extremely slow with an otherwise CPU-friendly fortress and a decent machine, your graphic card's interaction with the OpenGL code used by the game may be at fault. Updating your drivers usually works; you may also have to adjust some settings in your graphic card's control software, such as turning vertical synchronization off.

However, the acceleration program above works by altering the way DF interacts with OpenGL. It may be worth a try too.

=== Water control ===

This is probably obvious, but i'm stating it anyway. If you use any form of water control, reservoirs, aqueducts, etc, make sure each intermediate section delimited by floodgates is either at 0/7 or 7/7 level. Having a reservoir with both 3/7 and 4/7 tiles will just make the 4/7 tiles 'move' around - probably to simulate waves or due to a randomness element in the code (although - why waves in closed spaces?). And it will _slow_ down your box.

I've had an irrigation system set up with a measuring reservoir. After i filled the main area, i left the measuring reservoir with water tiles at 3/7 and 4/7, and the 4/7 tiles kept moving around. I filled it up to 7/7 and my fps increased.

== Advice for v0.27.176.38c ==

=== World size ===
Reducing the generated world size will make a large improvement in speed on computers with low physical memory. The world itself is generated faster, smaller, and it will take less time to save and load.
* When starting the game pick the "Design New World With Parameters" option.
* Select medium or smaller by using the arrow keys.
* Generate the new world.
* Start a new game in the smaller world.
Smaller is not always better. If you make your world too small then there will be nothing interesting on it. So try medium first before going smaller. Pocket dimensions are generated extremely quickly but are mostly just for testing mods. Newer versions have world generation settings which can be used to create "perfect world" as small as pocket one but with most interesting things in. This however isn't easy and requires much time.

== Advice for v0.27.169.33b-g ==

=== Game options ===
In the folder "\data\init" is a file named "init.txt". Edits to this file can greatly increase game speed. Keep backups for safety and to save yourself having to re-enter values every time you upgrade.

{| border="1" cellpadding="2"
!Parameter
!Effect
!Speed Improvement
|-
|[SOUND:OFF]|| Disables sound. ||Slight increase in speed.
|-
| [FPS:YES], [FPS_CAP:100]: ||Handy indicator of how fast your game is running.||
|-
| [G_FPS_CAP:15]:|| Controls refresh rate. ||Lower values often boost speed dramatically ... at the cost of less frequent visual updates, which can pose a problem during battles.
|-
| [VSYNC:OFF]: || Attempting to synchronize refreshes ||can kill game speed for some players (depending on your OS, graphics card, and OpenGL settings).
|-
| [PARTIAL_PRINT:YES:2]:||This makes the game only refresh sections of the screen that need to be refreshed. From init.txt: "The number refers to how many frames it will redo a printed tile before skipping it, so you might try increasing it a bit." || Can hugely increase performance but doesn't work on all systems. Using a higher value than 2 may be necessary for it to work (many players report it working when it's set one higher than their [G_FPS_CAP]).
|-
| [PRIORITY:HIGH]:||This option automatically makes the game run in high priority. ||This will probably prevent your computer from effectively running anything at the same time as the game and, for some players, causes major lag in the DF interface as well. Still worth a try, though.
|-
|[PRIORITY:REALTIME] ||devotes even more resources to Dwarf Fortress, but has been known to cause stuttering gameplay. ||Increasing priority will make the game difficult to kill using task manager if it locks up. This happens because things like screen output and HD access are not entirely part of DF. However, a dual-core machine can use realtime priority without fear of consequences, at least as long as DF remains single-threaded.
|-
| [TEMPERATURE:NO]: || Turns off temperature greatly increases speed. ||It also kills off some rather nice lava warming effects, stops rivers from freezing and (importantly!) thawing, makes glacial maps less interesting, and prevents sudden deaths from exposure. You're well-advised to stick with "warm" or "hot" fortress sites if you turn temperature off and your source of water is a stream.
|-
| [WEATHER:NO]: || Turns off weather ||increases speed noticeably.
|-
| [CAVEINS:NO]: ||Turns off cave-ins ||increases speed only fractionally.
|-
| [POPULATION_CAP:40]: || Keep your population under control to prevent the game bogging down. ||Pathfinding for numerous dwarves can bring even a fast machine to its knees.
|}

=== Fortress site ===
* Moving fluids are the major source of lag in most maps at game start. Magma and (to a lesser extent) running water are CPU hogs in the current version. If you haven't got the hardware to run DF with a magma site, suck it up and go without. Gigantic major rivers lower the framerate significantly. Aquifers (until tapped) and stagnant pools seem not to cause major speed issues.
* Avoid elevation extremes. The fewer the z-levels, the faster the game runs.
* Minimize map size. Smaller maps get you substantially more speed.
* Avoid caves, towns, ruins, or anything populated. Everything in them invokes the pathfinding code frequently.
* {{L|Glowing pit|Hidden Fun Stuff}} can cause a substantial slowdown once you break into it, though it's not a problem while it's still hidden.

=== Fortress layout and gameplay ===
* Narrow paths and bottlenecks cause the pathfinding algorithm to repeatedly recompute a faster route for each dwarf (and pet) as the paths empty and clear. Use large hallways and multiple stairways to connect any two spots where lots of dwarves will want to be.
* Keep wandering pets and wild animals to a minimum and cage livestock. The AI for all of these has become more efficient of late and each one costs much less CPU time than a dwarf, but sheer numbers matter.
* Avoid designating very large areas for chopping, gathering, detailing, or mining, especially if many dwarves do these things.
* Some observers suspect that having massive numbers of objects in stockpiles also impacts FPS; others believe any effect is minor{{verify}}. Food stockpiles seem to be the worst offenders; if your fortress overproduces food, you may see a progressive slowdown even if your population and pathing complexity don't change.
* Blocking off areas of the fortress entirely - especially (only?) with removable obstacles like drawbridges or forbidden doors - causes serious problems with pathfinding.

=== Cheating ===
* Fully revealed areas are faster than hidden ones. Running reveal.exe will make the game faster.
* As of 28.181.40d this appears to be quite the reverse.

=== Non-factors ===
The following things ''don't'' have a significant effect on game speed, at least as tested.

* Fullscreen or windowed (if OpenGL settings are compatible with the game)
* Use of {{L|Graphics_set_repository|custom graphics sets}}, choice of graphics tileset
* Size of tiles
* Number of z-levels mined out (fortress pathfinding complexity matters; mere distance up and down doesn't)

== Advice for v0.27.169.33a ==
* Upgrade.

== Advice for earlier versions ==
* If framerate is always slow at startup, your graphic card's interaction with the OpenGL code used by the game is likely to be at fault. Turning off vertical synchronization and updating your drivers usually works.
* Put animals in cages. Never keep them behind locked doors and reduce wandering pets to a reasonable number.
* Do not specify huge areas for mining or (especially) detailing.
* Open up \data\init\init.txt. Turn off TEMPERATURE and WEATHER and reduce POPULATION_CAP.

== Hardware- and OS-specific Advice ==

=== Dual Processors ===
* Go into task manager and set the affinity of Dwarf Fortress to one processor, and then set all the programs that use significant resources to the other. If Dwarf Fortress ever utilizes more than one processor, this will of course become irrelevant; currently, however, very few programs do and the best use of a dual processor is to give DF its own processor. This is ''not'' recommended for laptop computers, which will switch between processors as a heat management technique. Pinning to one processor will cause the processor to start slowing down instead.

* Vista's START command can be used to set affinity with the /AFFINITY switch, so basically you can create a shortcut and you won't need to set affinity manually.

* In 40d#, set PRINT_MODE to 2DASYNC in init.txt

=== Laptop computers ===
* Frame rate is higher when running off mains power. This is because laptops reduce CPU performance to extend the battery life.
* You can disable that feature in MS Windows, at the expense of the battery running out much more quickly.
* Some laptops may overheat if you run Dwarf Fortress for too long, keep your laptop cool if you find that after a while FPS suddenly drops. (This is due to CPU throttling intended to prevent possible damage from heat building up.)

===Dual monitors===
* Display DF entirely on one screen (no overlap to the second screen whatsoever).

==See also==
*{{L|System requirements}}
*{{L|water}}
*{{L|One-way|One-way paths}}

[[Category:Guides]]
{{Game_Interface FAQ}}

v0.31:Aquifer

2010-08-09T22:07:44Z

Darkstar: /* The freezing method */ Moved construct floor up, left water to fill top as more involved alternative

{{quality|Masterwork|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of {{l|water|groundwater}}-bearing rock or {{l|soil}}. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with {{l|water}}, effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in {{l|loam}}, and {{l|sand}}, makes it difficult to find great quantities of {{l|stone}} in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. {{l|stone detailing|Smoothed}} aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in {{l|water#Salt_Water|saltwater}} areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==
Aquifers are found in most {{L|soil}} layers and some porous rock layers. They often span several rock layers. They are recognizable at the embark screen by the {{Tile|≈≈≈≈≈|1:0:1}} to the right of that layer.

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*{{L|sandy clay loam}}
*{{L|silty clay loam}}
*{{L|loam}}
*{{L|sandy loam}}
*{{L|silt loam}}
*{{L|loamy sand}}
*{{L|silt}}
*{{L|sand (tan)|sand}}
*{{L|yellow sand}}
*{{L|white sand}}
*{{L|black sand}}
*{{L|red sand}}
*{{L|peat}}
*{{L|pelagic clay}}
*{{L|calcareous ooze}}
*{{L|siliceous ooze}}
*{{L|sandstone}}
*{{L|conglomerate}}
**{{L|puddingstone}}
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*{{L|clay}}
*{{L|silty clay}}
*{{L|sandy clay}}
*{{L|clay loam}}
*{{L|siltstone}}
*{{L|mudstone}}

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a {{L|sedimentary layer}} such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of {{L|conglomerate}}, as large clusters of {{L|puddingstone}} will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The magma/obsidian method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the {{l|water}}-bearing rock or {{l|soil}}. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of diggable rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First {{l| channel}} out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A {{l| burrow}} may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a {{l|hospital}} standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with {{l| wood}} walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin.

Some might regard this method as cheating, so use it at your own risk.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using {{l|channel}}s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

Note: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards.
Simplest method is to construct a wooden (or stone, if you have any) floor and then remove it. After the floor is removed, a natural ice floor will remain.
An alternative means that will work is to set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a {{l|pond}}, and '''FILL IT'''. The first {{l|bucket}} of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond {{l|activity zone}}, and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket, so have a working {{l|well}} or underground pond ready beforehand for this to work.

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple {{L|screw pump|pumps}} to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or {{l|wall}} off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical {{l|power}} may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. Make sure you do this before creating a new world to play on. ''(Then again, why not just embark on a place that isn't all aquifer... what are you looking for, [[adamantine]]?)'' Some might regard this method as cheating, so use it at your own risk.

===Breaking through to an existing space===

With a typical double-layer aquifer (with an unsafe layer beneath it that fills from above) it is not easy to push through a stairwell where you'd like, even if you have access to the space beneath. Start by ensuring 24 building materials (wood or stone) are available close by on the layer above the top aquifer, and that a ''large'' space (at least 25x25 or so, preferably larger) is available on the top safe layer under the aquifer, four layers beneath the first. Dig or build an up-down stair at the same position on the upper and lower safe levels, and surround the top up-down stair with 8 down-stairs for better access. Have at least three legendary diggers and half a dozen moderately skilled masons close by and idle. It also helps to have a stairway or open space leading down from the lower level to relieve water buildup at the point you'll make the hole.

Start by digging an up/down stairway upward from the bottom safe stairway into the bottom (third) layer. Water will start pouring out into the bottom level. Designate the next two squares up (on the aquifer levels) as up-down stairs to link the two, and wait until the diggers get started on them. Then designate a 3x3x3 block around these as up-down stairs on the two aquifer levels and the unsafe level beneath. Once they're built very large amounts of water will be pouring down into the lower space. ''Warning:'' unlike in the previous version, diggers now make a habit of canceling designations that they feel they can't get to, such as if the lower level is too flooded for them to approach. Make sure all 27 up-down stairs are dug out ASAP. Then wall six squares on the top level (leaving two to be walled once the corners are filled in), and proceed downward from completed walls until you've walled squares on all three levels. After you finish, I'm not sure if it's technically necessary to construct up-down stairs in the space you dug out by designation in order to stop all water leakage.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Ambusher

2010-08-06T22:31:39Z

Darkstar: /* Caveats */ Making note that hunters need quivers to hold their bolts.

{{Quality|Exceptional|10:50, 12 July 2010 (UTC)}}
{{buggy|bugsection=Bugs}}
{{Skill
| color = 2:0
| skill = Ambusher
| specialty = Hunter
| profession = {{L|Ranger}}
| job name = Hunting
| tasks =
* Hunt
| attributes =
* Focus
* Spatial Sense
}}
{{av}}

{{L|Dwarves}} with the '''hunting''' {{L|labor}} enabled automatically use the '''ambusher''' skill while hunting outside of the fortress, which allows them to sneak up on their prey. The ambusher skill is listed among the 'misc' skills. Dwarves using the ambush skill move more slowly, but, if successful, cannot be seen by enemies. Once close enough, the ambusher skill is no longer relevant, and the hunter will engage in standard {{L|combat}} with their prey using their crossbow.

Since hunting is employed by players with varying success and your military will go after any game that looks at them funny anyway, you might be better off doing the good old 'hunt with your military'. After all, your military can be told to pick a specific target, and, more convenient, to ''stop'', too. One can remove the hunting labor from the hunter to get them to stop.

==Caveats==
A dwarf with the hunting labor enabled will sleep outside and drink water{{verify}}, causing unhappy thoughts{{verify}}. It may thus be necessary to watch the mood of a full-time hunter and take him off the job in time.

Animals will appear randomly on the edge of a map, especially once the map is cleared of all wildlife. This can result in your {{L|hoary marmot|marmot}} hunter suddenly having an unpleasant chitchat with an {{L|elephant}}, {{L|giant eagle}}, or worse.

Hunters using crossbows must have a {{L|quiver}} to hold their bolts. Due to this change of behavior in version 0.31.x, the standard load for embarking now includes 3 quivers.

==Adventurer mode {{verify}} ==
In {{L|adventurer mode}}, ambusher skill is gained by moving around while {{key|S}}neaking. This will greatly reduce your speed just as it does in dwarf mode, but will cause hostile {{L|creatures}} to not attack you. Until you un{{key|S}}neak or someone spots you, you will gain a small amount of {{L|experience}} in ambushing with every step. Presently, smashing a creature's skull in with your bare hands does not count as being spotted, so the best way to tell if you're still sneaking is to check your speed in the bottom right of the screen. Ambusher also helps prevent encounters from enemies while traveling on the world map{{verify}}.

== Hunting ==
A hunter picks a mark at random, which he then pursues, ignoring other animals and enemies{{verify}}. Hunters seem to switch marks under certain circumstances. As an ambusher gets closer to his prey, there is a greater and greater chance he or she will be spotted by the animal and stop ambushing. Higher skill allows dwarves to get closer before being spotted, and also increases the speed at which a dwarf can move while sneaking.

Generally, when the dwarf is within shooting range she will move to engage. From there, the ambusher skill has no effect, and only combat skills are used.

Upon killing the prey, a hunter will usually carry it home to the {{L|butcher's shop}}. A hunter may kill other {{L|creatures}} that are closer to them than the fleeing mark he is intent on catching{{verify}}. They will ignore the accidental carcass and only bring home a carcass they have marked beforehand. This means that sometimes multiple dead critters per hunt will be lying about and start rotting around the map if you do not set the refuse orders to 'gather refuse from outside' ({{L|corpse}}s count as refuse). If you do this and have a good system of {{L|stockpile}}s, available dwarf haulers and a map free of menacing critters (like with calm {{L|surroundings}}), then you should have the outside of your fort just as tidy as the inside, and will be able to salvage the corpses. If you do that on the wrong map, you will see some dwarf carcasses added instead.

==Postprocessing==
The same caution is advised to the slaughtering process. Hunters will drop carcasses directly into the butchery{{verify}}, which will make it cluttered very fast. Animals upon being butchered explode into many many parts, and the clutter will make the {{L|butcher}} work many times slower. {{L|Stockpiles}} and {{L|haulers}} are required, or your animal corpses will rot even while in the butchery and you will lose the {{L|skin}}, {{L|meat}}, {{L|fat}} and ({{L|food}}). Bones and skulls can be salvaged even from rotting corpses{{verify}}. It can also happen that your butcher is not fast enough and some hauler takes a corpse from the butchery and puts it on a refuse pile{{verify}}. Usually this shouldn't be a problem as your butcher will pick it up from there - if the refuse pile is close by.

If you don't have a good stocking and hauling system, you will not get all of the kill, and the {{L|craftsdwarf}} unfortunate enough to need the bones from the rotted critters will have to go out alone several times to get them every time which places a huge strain on production speed and safety.

==Dogs==
You can assign {{L|Dog#Hunting_Dogs|hunting dog}}s to your {{L|hunter|hunter}}s, which can sneak alongside their masters and attack the hunter's prey. You can also assign {{L|Dog#War_Dogs|War dog}}s, which are much stronger and can help take down bigger game, but cannot sneak and may rush into combat early.

== Weapons and Tactics ==
You should consider training hunters in wrestling in order for them to defend themselves. Wrestling will help them to break the jaw-grips that the enemy critter places on him, and will help the dwarf wrestle on his own and even place his own jaw grips if both of his hands are incapacitated, and is the only option if a weapon is dropped or stuck in the animal. You should also consider training them in the {{L|Weapon skill|hammerdwarf}} skill, as a crossbow is used with this skill if an animal engages in melee against a marksdwarf, and hunters will fight to the death even if they run out of {{L|bolt}}s{{verify}}. Without bolts, he must fight with the butt of the crossbow, which functions similarly to a {{L|Dwarven_weapon#War_hammer|hammer}}.

Using your military to hunt can be safer and more efficient than using hunters, particularly if they are agile enough to simply outrun the creatures.

Be warned that hunters will not stop their current hunt if you disable their hunting labor; hence, your dwarf may end up hunting whatever creatures spawn next, with potentially suicidal results. This may be avoidable by disabling the labor while hunting or returning the kill.

== Free equipment ==
Any dwarf given ambusher skill at Novice level or better before embarking will get a free set of leather armor (leather armor, leather leggings, leather low or high boots, and leather helm or steel cap); a crossbow (made of copper, bronze, bismuth bronze, iron, or steel); and a quiver with 30-40 steel bolts. All of these items will be of ordinary {{L|quality|quality}}.

This equipment will only be given if ambusher is the dwarf's highest skill; a Proficient Ambusher/Proficient Cook will have {{L|farmer}} as a profession, and will not receive any equipment. However, ambushers with other {{L|ranger}} skills, even ones higher than their ambusher skill, will still receive this equipment{{verify}}, as will ambushers with {{L|military}} skills at any level{{verify}}. (Separately, military skills will not influence what equipment is given: speardwarves will arrive at the site carrying nothing, and speardwarf/ambushers will arrive with the crossbow given to all ambushers. {{L|Armor user|Armor user}} and {{L|shield user|shield user}} have no effect either.)

You can also get the freebies by giving a social/administration skilled dwarf a point in ambusher{{verify}}.

Any {{L|immigration|immigrating}} hunters will receive a full set of proper equipment.

A hunter armed with a {{L|crossbow}} will increase both his {{L|Marksman|marksdwarf}} and ambusher {{L|skill}}s.

==Bugs==
As of 31.01 there are several severe bugs logged in the bug tracker associated with the hunting labor.
* Hunters refuse to wear armor [http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/mantisbt/view.php?id=76] {{verify}}
* Migrant hunters sometimes arrive with the hunting labor turned off, causing them to drop their equipment at the edge of the map [http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/mantisbt/view.php?id=110]

{{Skills}}

v0.31 Talk:Irrigation

2010-07-11T02:27:46Z

Darkstar: /* Farms in deeper water */

Just few notes:
* You can make farms in 1/7. There is no need to wait till it evaporates.
* River does not have to be above farm, it can be on same level. You just dig straight into it, with floodgate installed in the tunnel and lever pulled. [[User:RusAnon|RusAnon]] 20:26, 4 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farms in deeper water ==
My farmers do not seem to be bothered by my farms being 2/7 deep in water (poor water control). Anyone else seen similar? --[[Special:Contributions/131.111.254.209|131.111.254.209]] 10:26, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

Dwarves can walk through 1/7 and 2/7 water covered tiles, but cannot work that actual tile, so no planting seeds or harvesting plants until the water evaporates. The plants aren't actually bothered by water depth, so they will mature despite being under water. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:31, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

:Dwarves can create farms, plant, and harvest in 1/7 water. True in 40d and true in 2010. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 20:10, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

:Sorry, I typed that poorly. Dwarves can walk through low water covered tiles, but will not work a tile if it has 2/7 or more water in it. That is what I meant above, but didn't communicate it properly. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 02:27, 11 July 2010 (UTC)

== Due to a bug ==

Can someone confirm if this is a bug? Otherwise, I'm assuming it's an intentional change and removing that comment.[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 02:30, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
:Yup. Baguhn confirmed it here: [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336] --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 01:25, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
::Toady's comment on this was much more vague - rewording it. --[[User:Old Ancient|Old Ancient]] 05:36, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Designating a pond ==

I'm trying to follow the instructions for bucket irrigation, and I can't designate a pond either in the open space above the farm, or in the stone floor of the farm itself. The only place I seem to be able to designate a pond is over the brook, which makes no sense at all. Running 0.31.03. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 21:04, 21 April 2010 (UTC)
: Ah, I found the trick. I could only designate a one-tile pit/pond zone on the ramp leading down to the farm. I couldn't designate anything on the farm itself. After designating the pit/pond, you have to press [P] and [f] to toggle it from pit to pond. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:22, 22 April 2010 (UTC)

== Exceptional rating ==

As this article contains quite a lot of information, I've added the appropriate category, and the tileset criterion does not currently appear to be a requirement for Exceptional quality, I have moved this article up from Fine. --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 14:59, 11 May 2010 (UTC)
: Awesome. Thank you everyone who helped make this article.-[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 03:16, 12 May 2010 (UTC)

== Exact Calculation ==

Why the exact calculation for the water above a farm? Why not flood a room, then pull a lever to open a hatch to a cistern below the farm? I have just tried this, seems to work fine. [[User:Fephisto|Fephisto]] 00:17, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

:It is neater if you don't need to drain the room afterwards. Flooding it and then draining it is much easier though, though i personally run the excess water off the map or into the caverns. [[User:Dangerous Beans|Dangerous Beans]] 08:44, 22 June 2010 (UTC)

== Pond Method Not 100% Reliable ==

This needs more testing, but here are the steps I took and their results:

1) dug out a 5 x 9 room in stone (not soil) 
2) added doors to the room and locked them tight 
3) channeled two hole in the ceiling (evenly spaced) and marked them as ponds 
4) dwarves used water from a well to (slowly) fill the room

Initial results: watered tiles showed mud. Eventual results: only about 1/3 to 1/2 of the watered tiles contained mud (but all were marked as damp). I watched the process carefully after noticing this and it seems that occasionally the added water was “washing away” the piles of mud. Dwarves were not cleaning the mud away as the doors to the room were locked (not that they do this normally, but it was one of my initial thoughts). I don’t know exactly why this happened or what caused the mud to go away (except that I assume it was the water washing it away). It could be that my source of water (a well) was ‘clean’ water and not muddy water (as all water from wells is) but then I don't know where any of the mud came from if that's the case. Can anyone confirm this? (This was done in version 31.04) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 16:20, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

I've seen this happen quite often in 31.x. Water waves will occasionally "wash away" mud. It seems to happen the most when 2/7 flows over a tile that has 0/7 tile with mud or a 1/7 tile with mud. But I've seen 5/7 washing over lower tiles and wiping out mudded tiles. The problem is that after a tile has been "washed" clean by a wave, I can't get it to mud at all ever after. I have to reset the tile by constructing a floor on it and then deconstructing the floor, reseting the natural tiles to unworked.

I rarely have this trouble with bucket brigading. That's because I zone my farm tiles with pond tiles individually and turn them off once they have 1/7 water on them. Precise placement, and it never washes away any muddied square. But I've seen it happen when I didn't deactivate the pond fast enough, and other dwarves dumped water on it, creating a moving wave of 2/7. -- [[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 02:13, 11 July 2010 (UTC)

== Irrigation: How often ==

How often do I need to irrigate my farms? Only once, for the entire life of the plot? Or should I run some water over them every year or something?--[[Special:Contributions/208.81.12.34|208.81.12.34]] 13:57, 23 June 2010 (UTC)
:You should only have to irrigate one time, usually. As long as the mud is on a rough floor (not a constructed floor), the dwarves will not clean it up, and it should stay there forever. --[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:28, 23 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Irrigation

2010-07-11T02:13:55Z

Darkstar: /* Pond Method Not 100% Reliable */

Just few notes:
* You can make farms in 1/7. There is no need to wait till it evaporates.
* River does not have to be above farm, it can be on same level. You just dig straight into it, with floodgate installed in the tunnel and lever pulled. [[User:RusAnon|RusAnon]] 20:26, 4 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farms in deeper water ==
My farmers do not seem to be bothered by my farms being 2/7 deep in water (poor water control). Anyone else seen similar? --[[Special:Contributions/131.111.254.209|131.111.254.209]] 10:26, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

Dwarves can walk through 1/7 and 2/7 water covered tiles, but cannot work that actual tile, so no planting seeds or harvesting plants until the water evaporates. The plants aren't actually bothered by water depth, so they will mature despite being under water. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:31, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

:Dwarves can create farms, plant, and harvest in 1/7 water. True in 40d and true in 2010. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 20:10, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

== Due to a bug ==

Can someone confirm if this is a bug? Otherwise, I'm assuming it's an intentional change and removing that comment.[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 02:30, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
:Yup. Baguhn confirmed it here: [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336] --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 01:25, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
::Toady's comment on this was much more vague - rewording it. --[[User:Old Ancient|Old Ancient]] 05:36, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Designating a pond ==

I'm trying to follow the instructions for bucket irrigation, and I can't designate a pond either in the open space above the farm, or in the stone floor of the farm itself. The only place I seem to be able to designate a pond is over the brook, which makes no sense at all. Running 0.31.03. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 21:04, 21 April 2010 (UTC)
: Ah, I found the trick. I could only designate a one-tile pit/pond zone on the ramp leading down to the farm. I couldn't designate anything on the farm itself. After designating the pit/pond, you have to press [P] and [f] to toggle it from pit to pond. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:22, 22 April 2010 (UTC)

== Exceptional rating ==

As this article contains quite a lot of information, I've added the appropriate category, and the tileset criterion does not currently appear to be a requirement for Exceptional quality, I have moved this article up from Fine. --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 14:59, 11 May 2010 (UTC)
: Awesome. Thank you everyone who helped make this article.-[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 03:16, 12 May 2010 (UTC)

== Exact Calculation ==

Why the exact calculation for the water above a farm? Why not flood a room, then pull a lever to open a hatch to a cistern below the farm? I have just tried this, seems to work fine. [[User:Fephisto|Fephisto]] 00:17, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

:It is neater if you don't need to drain the room afterwards. Flooding it and then draining it is much easier though, though i personally run the excess water off the map or into the caverns. [[User:Dangerous Beans|Dangerous Beans]] 08:44, 22 June 2010 (UTC)

== Pond Method Not 100% Reliable ==

This needs more testing, but here are the steps I took and their results:

1) dug out a 5 x 9 room in stone (not soil) 
2) added doors to the room and locked them tight 
3) channeled two hole in the ceiling (evenly spaced) and marked them as ponds 
4) dwarves used water from a well to (slowly) fill the room

Initial results: watered tiles showed mud. Eventual results: only about 1/3 to 1/2 of the watered tiles contained mud (but all were marked as damp). I watched the process carefully after noticing this and it seems that occasionally the added water was “washing away” the piles of mud. Dwarves were not cleaning the mud away as the doors to the room were locked (not that they do this normally, but it was one of my initial thoughts). I don’t know exactly why this happened or what caused the mud to go away (except that I assume it was the water washing it away). It could be that my source of water (a well) was ‘clean’ water and not muddy water (as all water from wells is) but then I don't know where any of the mud came from if that's the case. Can anyone confirm this? (This was done in version 31.04) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 16:20, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

I've seen this happen quite often in 31.x. Water waves will occasionally "wash away" mud. It seems to happen the most when 2/7 flows over a tile that has 0/7 tile with mud or a 1/7 tile with mud. But I've seen 5/7 washing over lower tiles and wiping out mudded tiles. The problem is that after a tile has been "washed" clean by a wave, I can't get it to mud at all ever after. I have to reset the tile by constructing a floor on it and then deconstructing the floor, reseting the natural tiles to unworked.

I rarely have this trouble with bucket brigading. That's because I zone my farm tiles with pond tiles individually and turn them off once they have 1/7 water on them. Precise placement, and it never washes away any muddied square. But I've seen it happen when I didn't deactivate the pond fast enough, and other dwarves dumped water on it, creating a moving wave of 2/7. -- [[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 02:13, 11 July 2010 (UTC)

== Irrigation: How often ==

How often do I need to irrigate my farms? Only once, for the entire life of the plot? Or should I run some water over them every year or something?--[[Special:Contributions/208.81.12.34|208.81.12.34]] 13:57, 23 June 2010 (UTC)
:You should only have to irrigate one time, usually. As long as the mud is on a rough floor (not a constructed floor), the dwarves will not clean it up, and it should stay there forever. --[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:28, 23 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Item quality

2010-07-09T18:06:00Z

Darkstar:

Had a Talented stonecrafter turn out a no-quality mug - so that math has changed.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 02:33, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

I thought mugs didn't have quality levels. unless thats a new feature, you could just be unlucky, toady said a long time ago that even a dabbler has a chance of creating a masterpiece, so maybe it works backwards...hmmm... or I could be entirely wrong. [[Special:Contributions/24.255.86.193|24.255.86.193]]
:Wrong.

Tiredness can cause even a Legendary stonecrafter to turn out no quality mugs. The penalty for being tired, hungry, thirsty are still being adjusted as of version 31.08, but if it is important work to be done at a high level, suspend it until your top dwarf assigned/allowed/{{l|burrow}}ed is rested, feed, and boozed. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 18:06, 9 July 2010 (UTC)

Worked out the multipliers based on my weapon stockpile. I used the info from the value page and iron material page, do if they are wrong then the multipliers are out. I used a base of 1260 for the serrrated discs and a base of 220 for the picks. if someone could clean up the formatting and double check the numbers that would be great [[User:Dangerous Beans|Dangerous Beans]] 03:21, 25 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:Health screen

2010-07-09T18:00:54Z

Darkstar: Nothing to this article. It is basically a stub.

{{Quality|Tattered|12:58, 9 June 2010 (UTC)}}

By hitting the {{k|z}}-status key, one of the sub-menus is '''Health'''... 
This sub-menu is only available when a dwarf is appointed to the {{L|Chief Medical Dwarf}} position.
This screen is entirely mouse enabled.

For information on what the conditions listed in the menu mean, see: {{L|Medical status}}.

v0.31:Aquifer

2010-07-09T17:53:06Z

Darkstar: /* The pump method */ minor grammar change

{{quality|Masterwork|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of {{l|water}}-bearing rock or {{l|soil}}. Attempts to mine through them will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with {{l|water}}, effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in {{l|loam}}, and {{l|sand}}, makes it difficult to find great quantities of {{l|stone}} in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - they are infinite. {{l|stone detailing|Smoothed}} aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in {{l|water#salt_water|saltwater}} areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a {{L|sedimentary layer|sedimentary layer}} such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe.

===The magma/obsidian method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the {{l|water}}-bearing rock or {{l|soil}}. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of dig-able rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First {{l| channel}} out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A {{l| burrow}} may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a {{l|hospital}} standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with {{l| wood}} walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin.

'''Note:'''There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that the layer lands on.

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using {{l|channel}}s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

Note: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards. To correct that, set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a {{l|pond}}, and '''FILL IT'''. The first {{l|bucket}} of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond {{l|activity zone}}, and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket, so have a working {{l|well}} or underground pond ready beforehand for this to work.

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple {{L|screw pump|pumps}} to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or {{l|wall}} off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally <s>hilarity</s> tragedy.
* Mechanical {{l|power}} may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. Make sure you do this before creating a new world to play on. Some might regard this method as cheating, however, so use it at your own risk.

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Aquifer

2010-07-09T17:48:43Z

Darkstar: /* The freezing method */ How to overcome the missing ice floor tile - dump water from above!

{{quality|Masterwork|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of {{l|water}}-bearing rock or {{l|soil}}. Attempts to mine through them will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with {{l|water}}, effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in {{l|loam}}, and {{l|sand}}, makes it difficult to find great quantities of {{l|stone}} in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - they are infinite. {{l|stone detailing|Smoothed}} aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in {{l|water#salt_water|saltwater}} areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a {{L|sedimentary layer|sedimentary layer}} such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe.

===The magma/obsidian method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the {{l|water}}-bearing rock or {{l|soil}}. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of dig-able rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First {{l| channel}} out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A {{l| burrow}} may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a {{l|hospital}} standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with {{l| wood}} walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin.

'''Note:'''There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that the layer lands on.

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using {{l|channel}}s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

Note: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards. To correct that, set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a {{l|pond}}, and '''FILL IT'''. The first {{l|bucket}} of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond {{l|activity zone}}, and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket, so have a working {{l|well}} or underground pond ready beforehand for this to work.

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple {{L|screw pump|pumps}} to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or {{l|wall}} off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally <s>hilarity</s> tragedy.
* Mechanical {{l|power}} may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more easily portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* Yes, this method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will probably want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. Make sure you do this before creating a new world to play on. Some might regard this method as cheating, however, so use it at your own risk.

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Chief medical dwarf

2010-07-09T17:22:47Z

Darkstar: updated functionality with info from healthcare screen, version added, and another blatant reference to healthcare added.

{{quality|Fine|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{Noble|noble=Chief Medical Dwarf
|function=
* allows z-health screen
}}

The Chief Medical Dwarf is an appointed {{L|noble}} linked to the {{L|healthcare}} system of the fortress. It was added in the original release of 0.31{{version|0.31.01}}.

Appointing a Chief Medical Dwarf enables the {{l|Health screen|z-health screen}}. His only relevant skill is {{L|diagnostician}}.

The Chief Medical Dwarf is required to start all healthcare treatment of dwarves. He diagnosis the patient, then further treatment can be carried out as needed. This means the Chief Medical Dwarf should not be busy elsewhere doing other labors when several hurt dwarves make it to the hospital.

For more tips on healthcare, see: {{L|healthcare}}

{{Nobles}}
{{Category|Appointed Nobles}}

v0.31:Health care

2010-07-09T17:11:17Z

Darkstar: linked to Chief Medical Dwarf, broke up a long sentence into two shorter sentences, added info in about animals requesting care but not getting it from doctors.

{{quality|Fine|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{buggy|bugsection=Bugs}}

'''Hospitals''' are a {{l|Activity zone#Hospital|zone}} designated via the {{l|Activity zone|zone menu}}. Hospitals use any beds, tables, traction benches, and boxes/bags that are within these zones. You may also alter how much {{l|thread}}, {{l|cloth}}, {{l|splint}}s, {{l|crutch}}es, {{l|plaster powder}} for casts, {{l|bucket}}s, and {{l|soap}} hospitals use.

'''Doctors''' are dwarves assigned to any of the five medical labors; dressing wounds, diagnosis, surgery, setting bones, and suturing. All doctors in the fortress operate under the instruction of the {{l|Chief Medical Dwarf}}, an appointed {{l|noble}}. Doctors perform medicine on a dwarf only after treatment has been prescribed by a diagnostician. Doctors do not perform any healthcare on animals, despite hurt animals "requesting" diagnosis in the {{l|Health screen|z-health screen}}.

All beds within a hospital zone are automatically Hospital beds, where injured dwarves will go to recuperate. Tired healthy dwarves will occasionally camp there too if the hospital is close, even if they have their own bed.

== Medical Skills ==
There are five doctor skills - how critical they are is unclear at the moment, but from [[Toady]]'s pre-release comments we can assume they are moderately important to the healing process.
:''(And if you choose "{{L|Starting build|Play Now!}}", one of the 7 dwarves has Adequate (+2) {{L|experience}} in all 5 of these skills - which says something. "What?" is not perfectly clear either, but something.)''

Skill (& Profession)

:* {{l|Diagnosis}} (Diagnostician) This skill is used at the start of the treatment of every wounded; used a lot and also needed by your chief medical

:* {{l|Wound Dressing}} (Wound Dresser) This is also used pretty often; any wound seems to need it

:* {{l|Suturing}} (Suturer) Fairly common; most open wounds (from cutting) seem to need it?
:* {{l|Surgery}} (Surgeon) Somewhat less common; amongst others, wounds to organs seem to require it
:* {{l|Setting Bones}} (Bone Doctor) This is obviously needed for broken bones, but perhaps not for all?

===Non-doctor labors===

"Non"-doctors have 2 {{L|labor}}s that contribute to healthcare:

:* Feed Patients/Prisoners
:* Recover Wounded

Note that these are not {{L|skill}}s - they do not cause experience gain, but merely are activities that can be turned on/off for each dwarf. By default, all dwarfs start with these labors designated.

==Setting up a Hospital==
* You must have assigned a Chief Medical Dwarf to diagnose patients. Without a diagnosis, patients cannot be treated. If they cannot be treated, they will occupy the hospital area until they die, performing no function.
* Ensure your doctors have their respective healthcare labours enabled through {{k|v}}-{{k|hp}}) in order to handle treatments.
* Hit the 'i' key, and set up a hospital [[zone]] for the area you plan on having your hospital in. Be sure "Hospital" is highlighted.
* Place enough beds in that zone to ensure you can keep all wounded dwarves in the hospital plus a few spare that will be occupied by lazy couchsurfers.
* Build at least four containers ({{k|b}}-{{k|h}}); to store hospital supplies.
* Build tables ({{k|b}}-{{k|t}}) for Surgeons to perform surgery on. You may perform surgery without tables; it will be "more messy."
* Build one (or more) traction benches to handle compound fractures when the dwarf requires "immobilization."

==Tips for an Effective Hospital==
* Regularly use ({{k|i}}-{{k|H}}) to examine your hospital stockpile. Ensure your hospital is well-stocked. If you run out of materials regularly, increase the limits.
* It is possible to do without soap in the hospital stockpile. Choosing to do so increases the risk of infection, which '''will''' kill your dwarf. Consult the {{l|soap}} page to understand that industry.
* Put a well inside the hospital for maximum efficiency. Doctors need to wash regularly, and clean water reduces infection.
* Do not place chairs next your surgery tables. A chair is an invitation for ratroast eating freeloaders to block the medical process.
* As of {{version|0.31.06}}, Surgeons may get stuck in Surgery if they cannot lift their patient. If this happens, remove all tables and traction benches to force them to perform the surgery "on the spot."
* Consider making use of burrows to ensure your healthcare workers stay in the area.
* You may wish to consider individual rooms for each bed if you find your doctors are choosing to treat Urist McScratched over Urist McBloodfountainthegushing. A locked door mimizes the mess and thereby infection and allows you to prioritize.
* The Chief Medical Dwarf should be kept unbusy and near the hospital, as no treatment will begin until he has diagnosed them.
** Yes, expecting him to also treat dwarves is a distraction. When you have multiple dwarves needing a diagnosis, the other medical dwarves cannot start work until he has finished.
* Create "nurses" by setting Dwarves to only use the Recover Wounded, Bring Food and Water labours.
** It is important not to distract doctors for treating patients.
** Food & Water are low priority jobs, it is entirely possible for a patient to starve to death if no one ever gets "unbusy" enough to bring them food.
**Similarly, it is important not to put your doctors at risk by recovering wounded in the middle of a battle - if they become injured, they cannot treat themselves.
* You can select nurses who enjoy helping people to give them good thoughts. This helps prevent dwarves that hate bringing others food from receiving unhappy thoughts for being "forced" to.
* Consult the talk page where past bugs are detailed. Healthcare started out with many bugs. Some of those bugs may no longer be valid.

Dwarves will prefer to store and use the most expensive thread and cloth. Yes, that includes '''adamantine strands'''.

== Broken bones ==

Broken bones require additional medical peripherals/devices to be properly treated.

=== Traction Benches ===

A '''traction bench''' is used by a {{l|doctor}} in a {{l|Hospital|hospital zone}} to immobilize a dwarf that has sustained complex or overlapping fractures.

It is constructed in the {{l|Mechanic's workshop}}, and requires a {{l|table}}, a {{l|mechanism}}, and a {{l|rope}} to construct.

=== Casts ===

Casts are made out of {{l|plaster powder}} and are used to keep broken bones in their proper place until healed.

Plaster powder is produced at a {{L|kiln}} or {{L|magma kiln}} from {{L|gypsum}}, {{L|alabaster}}, {{L|selenite}}, or {{L|satinspar}} and an empty {{L|bag}} by a dwarf with the furnace operator skill enabled. They can also be bought at embark for 3P per unit - each unit comes with a free {{L|bag}}.

=== Crutches ===

{|
|Crutches are represented with the symbol
|{{RT0|┬|#770}}
|.
|}

A dwarf that needs to use a crutch/crutches will gain experience in the '''Crutch Walking''' skill, which Toady has stated will reduce the speed penalty for having to use crutches. Presumably, at legendary, they will move just as fast as without crutches. Testing remains to be seen whether using crutches causes any other penalties that this skill might reduce.

'''See Also:'''
*{{l|Health screen|z-health screen}}

==Bugs==
Items linking to a bug on the bug tracker are accurate as of {{version|0.31.08}}. Older bugs should be removed or tagged with the version they were fixed in.

* If a dwarf gets stuck in surgery or is never properly treated, you can re-injure them to get the attention of Dwarven Healthcare, e.g. by causing a {{l|Cave-in}}. This will cause a new diagnosis to be made and may free the invalid. If he is stuck in a bed, you can sometimes remove the bed the dwarf is resting in to get him to leave the hospital. {{verify}}
* People have reported mixed results with surgery. Sometimes it never completes, sometimes it just takes really long and several attempts. Fixed in .31.07 {{bug|318}}
* Gypsum powder is not stored at the hospital. {{bug|194}}
* Dwarves with healthcare jobs will take supplies from normal stockpiles instead of the hospital to do their work. {{verify}}
* The hospital often stores more materials than are assigned. {{bug|191}}
* The quality and value of a finished traction bench doesn't account for all of the inputs used to make it. {{verify}}
* Dwarves without a depot will steal items from the caravan and store them in hospital. {{verify}}

[[Category:Current]]

v0.31:Health care

2010-07-09T16:56:19Z

Darkstar: /* Medical Skills */ White space change

{{quality|Fine|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{buggy|bugsection=Bugs}}

'''Hospitals''' are a {{l|Activity zone#Hospital|zone}} designated via the {{l|Activity zone|zone menu}}. Hospitals use any beds, tables, traction benches, and boxes/bags that are within these zones. You may also alter how much {{l|thread}}, {{l|cloth}}, {{l|splint}}s, {{l|crutch}}es, {{l|plaster powder}} for casts, {{l|bucket}}s, and {{l|soap}} hospitals use.

'''Doctors''' are dwarves assigned to any of the five medical labors; dressing wounds, diagnosis, surgery, setting bones, and suturing. All doctors in the fortress operate under the instruction of the Chief Medical Dwarf, one of the new appointed {{l|noble}}s, and presumably only perform medicine on a dwarf after treatment has been prescribed by a diagnostician.

All beds within a hospital zone are automatically Hospital beds, where injured dwarves will go to recuperate. Tired healthy dwarves will occasionally camp there too if the hospital is close, even if they have their own bed.

==Medical Skills==
There are five doctor skills - how critical they are is unclear at the moment, but from [[Toady]]'s pre-release comments we can assume they are moderately important to the healing process.
:''(And if you choose "{{L|Starting build|Play Now!}}", one of the 7 dwarves has Adequate (+2) {{L|experience}} in all 5 of these skills - which says something. "What?" is not perfectly clear either, but something.)''

Skill (& Profession)

:* {{l|Diagnosis}} (Diagnostician) This skill is used at the start of the treatment of every wounded; used a lot and also needed by your chief medical

:* {{l|Wound Dressing}} (Wound Dresser) This is also used pretty often; any wound seems to need it

:* {{l|Suturing}} (Suturer) Fairly common; most open wounds (from cutting) seem to need it?
:* {{l|Surgery}} (Surgeon) Somewhat less common; amongst others, wounds to organs seem to require it
:* {{l|Setting Bones}} (Bone Doctor) This is obviously needed for broken bones, but perhaps not for all?

===Non-doctor labors===

"Non"-doctors have 2 {{L|labor}}s that contribute to healthcare:

:* Feed Patients/Prisoners
:* Recover Wounded

Note that these are not {{L|skill}}s - they do not cause experience gain, but merely are activities that can be turned on/off for each dwarf. By default, all dwarfs start with these labors designated.

==Setting up a Hospital==
* You must have assigned a Chief Medical Dwarf to diagnose patients. Without a diagnosis, patients cannot be treated. If they cannot be treated, they will occupy the hospital area until they die, performing no function.
* Ensure your doctors have their respective healthcare labours enabled through {{k|v}}-{{k|hp}}) in order to handle treatments.
* Hit the 'i' key, and set up a hospital [[zone]] for the area you plan on having your hospital in. Be sure "Hospital" is highlighted.
* Place enough beds in that zone to ensure you can keep all wounded dwarves in the hospital plus a few spare that will be occupied by lazy couchsurfers.
* Build at least four containers ({{k|b}}-{{k|h}}); to store hospital supplies.
* Build tables ({{k|b}}-{{k|t}}) for Surgeons to perform surgery on. You may perform surgery without tables; it will be "more messy."
* Build one (or more) traction benches to handle compound fractures when the dwarf requires "immobilization."

==Tips for an Effective Hospital==
* Regularly use ({{k|i}}-{{k|H}}) to examine your hospital stockpile. Ensure your hospital is well-stocked. If you run out of materials regularly, increase the limits.
* It is possible to do without soap in the hospital stockpile. Choosing to do so increases the risk of infection, which '''will''' kill your dwarf. Consult the {{l|soap}} page to understand that industry.
* Put a well inside the hospital for maximum efficiency. Doctors need to wash regularly, and clean water reduces infection.
* Do not place chairs next your surgery tables. A chair is an invitation for ratroast eating freeloaders to block the medical process.
* As of {{version|0.31.06}}, Surgeons may get stuck in Surgery if they cannot lift their patient. If this happens, remove all tables and traction benches to force them to perform the surgery "on the spot."
* Consider making use of burrows to ensure your healthcare workers stay in the area.
* You may wish to consider individual rooms for each bed if you find your doctors are choosing to treat Urist McScratched over Urist McBloodfountainthegushing. A locked door mimizes the mess and thereby infection and allows you to prioritize.
* The Chief Medical Dwarf should be kept unbusy and near the hospital, as no treatment will begin until he has diagnosed them.
** Yes, expecting him to also treat dwarves is a distraction. When you have multiple dwarves needing a diagnosis, the other medical dwarves cannot start work until he has finished.
* Create "nurses" by setting Dwarves to only use the Recover Wounded, Bring Food and Water labours.
** It is important not to distract doctors for treating patients.
** Food & Water are low priority jobs, it is entirely possible for a patient to starve to death if no one ever gets "unbusy" enough to bring them food.
**Similarly, it is important not to put your doctors at risk by recovering wounded in the middle of a battle - if they become injured, they cannot treat themselves.
* You can select nurses who enjoy helping people to give them good thoughts. This helps prevent dwarves that hate bringing others food from receiving unhappy thoughts for being "forced" to.
* Consult the talk page where past bugs are detailed. Healthcare started out with many bugs. Some of those bugs may no longer be valid.

Dwarves will prefer to store and use the most expensive thread and cloth. Yes, that includes '''adamantine strands'''.

== Broken bones ==

Broken bones require additional medical peripherals/devices to be properly treated.

=== Traction Benches ===

A '''traction bench''' is used by a {{l|doctor}} in a {{l|Hospital|hospital zone}} to immobilize a dwarf that has sustained complex or overlapping fractures.

It is constructed in the {{l|Mechanic's workshop}}, and requires a {{l|table}}, a {{l|mechanism}}, and a {{l|rope}} to construct.

=== Casts ===

Casts are made out of {{l|plaster powder}} and are used to keep broken bones in their proper place until healed.

Plaster powder is produced at a {{L|kiln}} or {{L|magma kiln}} from {{L|gypsum}}, {{L|alabaster}}, {{L|selenite}}, or {{L|satinspar}} and an empty {{L|bag}} by a dwarf with the furnace operator skill enabled. They can also be bought at embark for 3P per unit - each unit comes with a free {{L|bag}}.

=== Crutches ===

{|
|Crutches are represented with the symbol
|{{RT0|┬|#770}}
|.
|}

A dwarf that needs to use a crutch/crutches will gain experience in the '''Crutch Walking''' skill, which Toady has stated will reduce the speed penalty for having to use crutches. Presumably, at legendary, they will move just as fast as without crutches. Testing remains to be seen whether using crutches causes any other penalties that this skill might reduce.

'''See Also:'''
*{{l|Health screen|z-health screen}}

==Bugs==
Items linking to a bug on the bug tracker are accurate as of {{version|0.31.08}}. Older bugs should be removed or tagged with the version they were fixed in.

* If a dwarf gets stuck in surgery or is never properly treated, you can re-injure them to get the attention of Dwarven Healthcare, e.g. by causing a {{l|Cave-in}}. This will cause a new diagnosis to be made and may free the invalid. If he is stuck in a bed, you can sometimes remove the bed the dwarf is resting in to get him to leave the hospital. {{verify}}
* People have reported mixed results with surgery. Sometimes it never completes, sometimes it just takes really long and several attempts. Fixed in .31.07 {{bug|318}}
* Gypsum powder is not stored at the hospital. {{bug|194}}
* Dwarves with healthcare jobs will take supplies from normal stockpiles instead of the hospital to do their work. {{verify}}
* The hospital often stores more materials than are assigned. {{bug|191}}
* The quality and value of a finished traction bench doesn't account for all of the inputs used to make it. {{verify}}
* Dwarves without a depot will steal items from the caravan and store them in hospital. {{verify}}

[[Category:Current]]

v0.31:Health care

2010-07-09T16:54:56Z

Darkstar: /* Traction bench / Broken bones */ Broke section into sub-sections to highlight Traction Benches, Crutches, and Casts

{{quality|Fine|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{buggy|bugsection=Bugs}}

'''Hospitals''' are a {{l|Activity zone#Hospital|zone}} designated via the {{l|Activity zone|zone menu}}. Hospitals use any beds, tables, traction benches, and boxes/bags that are within these zones. You may also alter how much {{l|thread}}, {{l|cloth}}, {{l|splint}}s, {{l|crutch}}es, {{l|plaster powder}} for casts, {{l|bucket}}s, and {{l|soap}} hospitals use.

'''Doctors''' are dwarves assigned to any of the five medical labors; dressing wounds, diagnosis, surgery, setting bones, and suturing. All doctors in the fortress operate under the instruction of the Chief Medical Dwarf, one of the new appointed {{l|noble}}s, and presumably only perform medicine on a dwarf after treatment has been prescribed by a diagnostician.

All beds within a hospital zone are automatically Hospital beds, where injured dwarves will go to recuperate. Tired healthy dwarves will occasionally camp there too if the hospital is close, even if they have their own bed.

==Medical Skills==
There are five doctor skills - how critical they are is unclear at the moment, but from [[Toady]]'s pre-release comments we can assume they are moderately important to the healing process.
:''(And if you choose "{{L|Starting build|Play Now!}}", one of the 7 dwarves has Adequate (+2) {{L|experience}} in all 5 of these skills - which says something. "What?" is not perfectly clear either, but something.)''

Skill (& Profession)

:* {{l|Diagnosis}} (Diagnostician) This skill is used at the start of the treatment of every wounded; used a lot and also needed by your chief medical

:* {{l|Wound Dressing}} (Wound Dresser) This is also used pretty often; any wound seems to need it

:* {{l|Suturing}} (Suturer) Fairly common; most open wounds (from cutting) seem to need it?
:* {{l|Surgery}} (Surgeon) Somewhat less common; amongst others, wounds to organs seem to require it
:* {{l|Setting Bones}} (Bone Doctor) This is obviously needed for broken bones, but perhaps not for all?

===Non-doctor labors===

"Non"-doctors have 2 {{L|labor}}s that contribute to healthcare:

:* Feed Patients/Prisoners
:* Recover Wounded

Note that these are not {{L|skill}}s - they do not cause experience gain, but merely are activities that can be turned on/off for each dwarf. By default, all dwarfs start with these labors designated.

==Setting up a Hospital==
* You must have assigned a Chief Medical Dwarf to diagnose patients. Without a diagnosis, patients cannot be treated. If they cannot be treated, they will occupy the hospital area until they die, performing no function.
* Ensure your doctors have their respective healthcare labours enabled through {{k|v}}-{{k|hp}}) in order to handle treatments.
* Hit the 'i' key, and set up a hospital [[zone]] for the area you plan on having your hospital in. Be sure "Hospital" is highlighted.
* Place enough beds in that zone to ensure you can keep all wounded dwarves in the hospital plus a few spare that will be occupied by lazy couchsurfers.
* Build at least four containers ({{k|b}}-{{k|h}}); to store hospital supplies.
* Build tables ({{k|b}}-{{k|t}}) for Surgeons to perform surgery on. You may perform surgery without tables; it will be "more messy."
* Build one (or more) traction benches to handle compound fractures when the dwarf requires "immobilization."

==Tips for an Effective Hospital==
* Regularly use ({{k|i}}-{{k|H}}) to examine your hospital stockpile. Ensure your hospital is well-stocked. If you run out of materials regularly, increase the limits.
* It is possible to do without soap in the hospital stockpile. Choosing to do so increases the risk of infection, which '''will''' kill your dwarf. Consult the {{l|soap}} page to understand that industry.
* Put a well inside the hospital for maximum efficiency. Doctors need to wash regularly, and clean water reduces infection.
* Do not place chairs next your surgery tables. A chair is an invitation for ratroast eating freeloaders to block the medical process.
* As of {{version|0.31.06}}, Surgeons may get stuck in Surgery if they cannot lift their patient. If this happens, remove all tables and traction benches to force them to perform the surgery "on the spot."
* Consider making use of burrows to ensure your healthcare workers stay in the area.
* You may wish to consider individual rooms for each bed if you find your doctors are choosing to treat Urist McScratched over Urist McBloodfountainthegushing. A locked door mimizes the mess and thereby infection and allows you to prioritize.
* The Chief Medical Dwarf should be kept unbusy and near the hospital, as no treatment will begin until he has diagnosed them.
** Yes, expecting him to also treat dwarves is a distraction. When you have multiple dwarves needing a diagnosis, the other medical dwarves cannot start work until he has finished.
* Create "nurses" by setting Dwarves to only use the Recover Wounded, Bring Food and Water labours.
** It is important not to distract doctors for treating patients.
** Food & Water are low priority jobs, it is entirely possible for a patient to starve to death if no one ever gets "unbusy" enough to bring them food.
**Similarly, it is important not to put your doctors at risk by recovering wounded in the middle of a battle - if they become injured, they cannot treat themselves.
* You can select nurses who enjoy helping people to give them good thoughts. This helps prevent dwarves that hate bringing others food from receiving unhappy thoughts for being "forced" to.
* Consult the talk page where past bugs are detailed. Healthcare started out with many bugs. Some of those bugs may no longer be valid.

Dwarves will prefer to store and use the most expensive thread and cloth. Yes, that includes '''adamantine strands'''.

== Broken bones ==

Broken bones require additional medical peripherals/devices to be properly treated.

=== Traction Benches ===

A '''traction bench''' is used by a {{l|doctor}} in a {{l|Hospital|hospital zone}} to immobilize a dwarf that has sustained complex or overlapping fractures.

It is constructed in the {{l|Mechanic's workshop}}, and requires a {{l|table}}, a {{l|mechanism}}, and a {{l|rope}} to construct.

=== Casts ===

Casts are made out of {{l|plaster powder}} and are used to keep broken bones in their proper place until healed.

Plaster powder is produced at a {{L|kiln}} or {{L|magma kiln}} from {{L|gypsum}}, {{L|alabaster}}, {{L|selenite}}, or {{L|satinspar}} and an empty {{L|bag}} by a dwarf with the furnace operator skill enabled. They can also be bought at embark for 3P per unit - each unit comes with a free {{L|bag}}.

=== Crutches ===

{|
|Crutches are represented with the symbol
|{{RT0|┬|#770}}
|.
|}

A dwarf that needs to use a crutch/crutches will gain experience in the '''Crutch Walking''' skill, which Toady has stated will reduce the speed penalty for having to use crutches. Presumably, at legendary, they will move just as fast as without crutches. Testing remains to be seen whether using crutches causes any other penalties that this skill might reduce.

'''See Also:'''
*{{l|Health screen|z-health screen}}

==Bugs==
Items linking to a bug on the bug tracker are accurate as of {{version|0.31.08}}. Older bugs should be removed or tagged with the version they were fixed in.

* If a dwarf gets stuck in surgery or is never properly treated, you can re-injure them to get the attention of Dwarven Healthcare, e.g. by causing a {{l|Cave-in}}. This will cause a new diagnosis to be made and may free the invalid. If he is stuck in a bed, you can sometimes remove the bed the dwarf is resting in to get him to leave the hospital. {{verify}}
* People have reported mixed results with surgery. Sometimes it never completes, sometimes it just takes really long and several attempts. Fixed in .31.07 {{bug|318}}
* Gypsum powder is not stored at the hospital. {{bug|194}}
* Dwarves with healthcare jobs will take supplies from normal stockpiles instead of the hospital to do their work. {{verify}}
* The hospital often stores more materials than are assigned. {{bug|191}}
* The quality and value of a finished traction bench doesn't account for all of the inputs used to make it. {{verify}}
* Dwarves without a depot will steal items from the caravan and store them in hospital. {{verify}}

[[Category:Current]]

v0.31:Millstone

2010-06-28T21:31:47Z

Darkstar: Should have a example of how to provide power to be an exceptional article. Most new players will need this direct hint.

{{av}}
{{Quality|Fine|21:31, 28 June 2010 (UTC)}}
{{Workshop|name=Millstone|key=M|job=[[Miller|Milling]]
|construction=
* [[Millstone]]
* [[Mechanism]]
|construction_job=
* [[Mechanic]]
|use=
* [[Blade weed]]
* [[Cave wheat]]
* [[Dimple cup]]
* [[Hide root]]
* [[Longland grass]]
* [[Sliver barb]]
* [[Sweet pod]]
* [[Whip vine]]
|production=
* [[Emerald dye]]
* [[Dwarven wheat flour]]
* [[Dimple dye]]
* [[Redroot dye]]
* [[Longland flour]]
* [[Sliver dye]]
* [[Dwarven sugar]]
* [[Whip vine flour]]
}}

A '''millstone''' is used to grind up certain [[plants]] to make [[flour]] and [[dye]]. Each [[milling]] job requires an empty [[bag]]. To operate, it needs to be connected to a mechanical [[power]] source such as a [[water wheel]] or [[windmill]] that supplies it with 10 power units. If none is available, a [[quern]] can be used instead. Before they can be placed as a building, you must first build the millstone at a [[Mason's Workshop]].

If the power to the millstone is interrupted, any jobs must be requeued when power is returned. Therefore it is best to have uninterrupted power or at least the ability to run it for a long period of time.

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machinery]].''

{{Workshops}}

v0.31 Talk:Millstone

2010-06-28T21:24:03Z

Darkstar: Comment that this is at best fine and too many articles are riding at exceptional due to migration in terms. Also noting I'm downgrading this article.

I think this should be downgraded to an Elven article. It looks like a stub to me.

Well.. it doesn't have any red links, with many blues.

----

I think it should be downgraded to +Fine+. There is a small, basic amount of information. No illustrations of how to hook up millstone to anything, no tips, etc.

Too many articles are marked as +Exceptional+ currently, due to the switch from "Elven", "Human", "Dwarven" to "Tattered", "Exceptional", and "Masterwork". Fine was added later, so most articles that SHOULD be marked "Fine" are currently marked "Exceptional".

I'm bumping this article down to "+Fine+". Others can bump it up if they disagree with me. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 21:24, 28 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:Shrubland

2010-05-27T22:23:23Z

Darkstar: Updated stub to proper quality of tattered

v0.31 Talk:Irrigation

2010-05-10T17:31:08Z

Darkstar: /* Farms in deeper water */ providing answer to working and walking in water

v0.31:Irrigation

2010-05-05T18:16:51Z

Darkstar: /* Buckets */ Put in an example of creating an irrigation gallery and resulting muddy tiles for farming below

{{av}}
{{elven}}

Irrigation is is the process of adding water to an underground or rock tile so that it can be {{L|farm plot|farmed}}. This is done by flooding the tile with {{L|water}}. Any amount of water will suffice but the less water, the better—farms cannot be built on any square containing water of {{L|water depth|2/7 or deeper}}. Tiles of depth 2/7 will flow into nearby tiles until the area is 1/7 if possible so this is only an issue if deep water is placed in an enclosed area.

Once the water has evaporated or been allowed to flow away, the tile will remain muddied unless a {{L|construction}} is built over it. Viewing the tile will cause it to display 'a pile of mud', 'a small pile of mud', or 'a dusting of mud' in its contents.

Farms can be built on unsuitable ground but doing so will display a warning message. If even a single square of the farm is not irrigated, it will be unusable.

{{L|Magma}}, for obvious reasons, cannot be used to irrigate{{verify}} but can cause {{L|fun}}.

== Early Irrigation ==

Farms must be built on muddy tiles. Farms cannot be built on underground tiles (rock or soil) unless those tiles have been muddied. This is not the case for above ground farming, where you can {{L|gather plants}} and {{L|Still|brew}} them for alcohol or even farm in above ground soil with the gathered seeds. But underground farming is a generally quicker, safer and more reliable (and dwarven) way to gain {{L|food}} and {{L|alcohol}}. Plus, you can only embark with seeds for underground crops. So, it is useful to know how to irrigate with as little investment in workshops and mechanisms as possible.

One obstacle to early irrigation is the time required to build mechanisms (which cannot be taken when {{L|embark|embarking}} and take time to set up). They can also be daunting to newer players and mistakes can result in floods or famine - common sources of {{L|fun}}. The methods below are designed to work without mechanisms.

===Murky Pools===

Most areas contain {{L|murky pool|murky pools}}, which provide one of the quickest, simplest methods of starting a farm. Digging out an area near a murky pool and draining the pool into it is an easy way to make the ground muddy and farmable.

You should first locate a pool near where you wish to put the farm. While any finite water source works, you need to drain the excess water somehow or allow it to [[evaporate]], so smaller pools are usually preferable. Once you find a good location, dig out the room and dig a tunnel that ends with only 1 tile between it and the pool. If you want to simply allow the water to evaporate after irrigation, the floorspace in the farm should about about 5 or 6 times that of the pool. Otherwise, you can dig another room out underneath the farm via stairs placed on the opposite side from the pool to drain the water after irrigation.

Finally, channel out the one tile between the tunnel and the pool and the water will flow in.

If you miscalculate the area, there are two possible outcomes, both easily solvable-

:* If the dug area is too large, some tiles will be left unmuddied. While muddying these squares is a lot of trouble and arguably not worth it, these tiles are perfect for seed stockpiles.
:* If the dug area is too small, there will be at least one tile of 2/7 depth. Until some of the water {{L|evaporation|evaporates}} (which will still happen, albeit slower, in the 1/7 tiles), you won't be able to farm it. However, unless you've drastically miscalculated, dwarves will be able to wade through the water and dig more tiles to expand the farm to the correct size.

===Buckets===

If you have access to a large source of water such as a {{L|brook}} or {{L|river}}, it is possible to irrigate an area with {{l|buckets}}.

To do this, find a subterranean area where you plan to locate your farm. Tunnel two z layers of the same size, as the upper z level will be the irrigation gallery for our farms. The irrigation will fall down to the desired tiles on the z-level below, creating our mud for farming.

{{L|channel|Channel}} the upper gallery in the following pattern:

++++
+..+ legend
+..+ . = channelled tile
++++ + = floor

(If you haven't {{L|Dig|dug}} the farm level by this point, you will have down ramps in your channelled tiles. Tunnel out the z-level below, as that is where your farms will be.)

{{L|activity zone|Designate}} the channeled tiles on the upper gallery as {{L|pond|ponds}}. If you designate each channeled tile individually as a pond, you can quickly muddy your planned farm tiles as only one dwarf can fill a pond activity zone, and you can control the spread of the water precisely. As each pond tile gets its first filling of water (brining it to 1/7 depth), unzone that pond tile, and this will result in an exact match of mud on the floor below.

This process creates "a dusting of mud" on the floor below, which is all that is needed to plant underground crops. Place your farm plots over just these muddied tiles.

Lower floor will look like the following:

++++
+mm+ legend
+mm+ m = muddied tile
++++ + = floor

You can vary the basic square to any rectangle, so long as you keep the rectangle 2 wide or 2 long, and this will result in quick and efficent muddy tile creation on the floor below.

If you accidentally add too much water, you can wait for some of the water to evaporate or for it to spread to nearby tiles. However, as long as you keep an eye on the dwarves and dezone that pond tile on the upper gallery as soon as a dwarf dumps a bucket of water, you shouldn't have this occur.

Other ways to easily create an upper irrigation gallery and a lower resulting farm level are possible. This is left up to the fortress designers to experiment with

v0.31 Talk:Activity zone

2010-05-05T17:11:25Z

Darkstar: /* Failure to dump items */ Answering most likely reason why clothes can't be dump and what to do to get them moved

==Flow-stylee activity zones?==
Does anyone know what this comment in the 0.31.02 changelog at [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=53505.0] means:
* fixed crash from doing a large flow-style activity zone

What is a flow-style activity zone?
--[[User:Altaree|Altaree]] 14:12, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
:When you are at the activity zone definition/selection state (right after hitting the Zones key from the main menu), you will see a key listed as "rectangle" (default "e") on the menu. Pressing that key toggles between three zone creation states: "rectangle" (the default, you set one corner of a rectangle and then the other), "flow" (you select a location and the area is "filled" with the activity zone, just like defining a room, and can be expanded and contracted the same way), and "floor flow" (not sure what the difference between it and "flow" is, anyone else done any testing?). I'm guessing zones don't become a simple property of the map squares where you defined the zone, like stock(p)iles and (d)esignations do. Instead the way you defined the zone is saved, and the area it occupies is re-calculated with every frame, after the zone menu is closed and play resumes. So a "flow-style" activity zone would be one that was originally defined using the "flow" method, and a large one could cause a performance hit at least, simply because its borders need to be recalculated from the definition every frame, which can get pretty complicated for some convoluted fortress designs. --[[Special:Contributions/66.190.120.90|66.190.120.90]] 15:45, 1 May 2010 (UTC)

==Zone-canceling crash==
It seems that whenever I cancel a zone while I am still placing it, the game crashes. It's pretty easily avoidable(finish building it, then delete it), but still annoying. Is this happening to anyone else?--[[User:Pvt. Miller|Pvt. Miller]] 21:51, 15 April 2010 (UTC)
::I can confirm this, happens to me every time. It's a bummer.

== Failure to dump items ==

I have a dozen clothing items on the ground marked for dumping that aren't being dumped. They're not on top of a stockpile, "gather refuse from outside" is turned ON, the items are not forbidden, I have a garbage dump zone AND refuse pile, and dwarves have refuse hauling enabled. I have many idlers. Stone from within my fortress gets dumped, but these clothing items do not. What gives? --[[Special:Contributions/208.81.12.34|208.81.12.34]] 14:12, 30 April 2010 (UTC)

Sounds like the items are owned. Owned items cannot be dumped. Only the owning dwarf can move them. View the item, and see if it lists an owner. If so, the only way to get them moved is to give the dwarf their own room (bedroom is good), and place a cabinet into that room. The dwarf will eventually grab up their discarded clothes and place them into the cabinet. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:11, 5 May 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:Activity zone

2010-05-05T16:53:02Z

Darkstar: /* Pit/Pond */ Updated after water dump information with observed behavior

{{AV}}

To editors:
This page has recently been copy/pasted twice from the old version, and blanked by the Admin twice because of lack of screening for accuracy.

If you want to tackle this page, it's easy - just take it one section at a time, check every {{k|k}}eystroke, make sure every zone works '''as described''' (either the previous description or your own new, accurate, updated version!), lose anything that is not confirmed ''(possibly <nowiki></nowiki> and comment/discuss on the Talk page, or use a {{verify}} link if you're "pretty sure" it's mostly accurate but have some small doubt or question)'', and it should all be good.

This means some degree of TESTING - that is to be assumed on all new pages if we want to get it right (and we do!). Fire up a small (2x2) "test" game in a calm biome, keep it safe and use it to check any concept to see how it works compared to the old description. ''(That's how the new {{L|fuel}} article was checked, which did show some subtle changes - but it's accurate now, which is what we want for a wiki.)''

Use the '''<nowiki>{{L|link}}</nowiki>''' format for links - those will be updated once the official "new version" number gets implemented. Any '''<nowiki>[[DF2010:link]]</nowiki>''' will go [[red]] when that happens.
:::''thanks, the Admin''

----

'''Activity zones''' are areas in which dwarves are instructed to perform specific tasks, such as fishing, dumping objects, or collecting water. While activity zones are optional for the performance of certain tasks (fishing, collecting water) and obligatory for cetain others (dumping), they can also be used to help keep dwarves out of danger.

Activity zones can be placed in any revealed tile, including in open space or over a river or on top of a building or stockpile. They are placed in the same manner as stockpiles, by designating a rectangular area using {{K|Enter}} from within the Zones menu ({{K|i}}). After that the zone has to be assigned to one of the listed tasks to become functional, by pressing the proper key. In some cases (hospital, pit/pond) additional orders can then be set from the same menu.

The location of a zone is only visible while in the Zones menu, and any object lying on the ground will hide the presence of a zone tile.

Meeting area zones are zones in which idle dwarves and animals will congregate, similar to meeting halls. Note that the wagon you arrive with constitutes a meeting area until you designate the first meeting area of your own. If you start in hostile surroundings it is important to get your dwarves and animals out of danger quickly.

== Garbage Dump ==
:Shortcut {{k|g}}

Garbage dump zones are areas in which dwarves will throw items specifically designated by using {{k|k}} then {{k|d}} for single items at a time, or {{key|d}}, {{key|b}}, {{key|d}} to designate a larger area to be dumped (or use the mouse to point and click). Garbage dumps are not the same as [[40d:refuse|refuse]] stockpiles, which can be designated to accept any specific type(s) of refuse-type item, such as animal corpses or bones, and then are randomly filled by haulers as the items become available on the map.

Garbage dumps:
:* Only accept items that have been marked for dumping.
:* Require dwarfs to have {{L|refuse hauling}} {{L|labor}} enabled.
::* Are subject to refuse orders (''{{k|o}}: Set Orders and Options -> {{k|r}}: Refuse Orders''). Most notably, dwarves will not dump items that are outside unless you allow them to ({{k|o}}->{{k|r}}->{{k|o}}).

To place a garbage dump, trace a zone on either a relatively empty plot of land or adjacent to a cliff face or hole. If a garbage zone is designated beside a {{L|cliff}} or hole (both natural or dwarf made) garbage will be thrown off/in the z-space. Each ground tile within that zone is considered a garbage dump tile; thus, if you want to place a single-tile zone, place the zone onto a ground tile (optionally adjacent to a cliff or {{L|pit}}), not onto an {{L|open space}}.
Items dumped into {{L|magma}} (provided they are not {{L|magma safe}}) will disappear permanently. Otherwise a single tile (either a dump zone, or the ground below the open space) will hold any number of dumped objects.

Once items are dumped they are automatically marked as "forbidden" however they will not dump items that are also forbidden. If you wish to use dumped items, you need to reclaim them. Press {{k|k}} to view the item and {{k|f}} to toggle forbid status. You may also use the reclaim {{L|designation}} to reclaim simultaneously all of the items dumped by using {{key|d}}, {{key|b}}, {{key|c}} and tracing the designation over top of the objects.

If a garbage dump is located next to open space, dwarves will always stand on a garbage dump square when throwing ''into that open space'', even if it could potentially be done more efficiently. If a garbage dump is located next to multiple tiles of open space, the seem to prefer the one farthest to the northwest. If a tile to the north and a tile to the west are the only tiles available, they will throw to the west. Since falling objects do not hurt dwarves, such garbage dumps can be a very efficient method of moving materials to the lower levels of your fortress.

Dwarves seem to throw dumped items in the nearest available garbage dump, although this is probably not reliable given that they don't always use the nearest available item to make things at workshops. If a nearer zone becomes available as they are traveling to a zone they will ignore it. Also, they seem to prefer dumps that allow them to throw things in to open space regardless of how far away they are.

== Hospital ==
:Shortcut {{k|H}}

== Pit/Pond ==
:Shortcut {{k|p}}

A Pit/Pond requires a {{L|ramp}} or hole with adjacent flooring on which a dwarf can stand. Designate the zone from the top of the ramp or hole. By default, the zone will be a pit. To change it to a pond, press {{k|P}} then {{k|f}}. It can be changed back to a pit the same way.

Animals can be assigned to a pit through the {{k|P}} menu. A dwarf will lead the beast to the pit and leave it there. (If the pit is a ramp rather than a hole, the animal will then wander off)

Dwarves will attempt to fill a pond with {{L|water}}, carried by {{L|bucket}} from a water-gathering zone. They will stand on the floor adjacent to the top of the ramp or hole, toss the water onto the ramp or into the hole. This increases the depth of the water in the pond by 1. Once the water is dumped from the bucket, dwarves will then drop the bucket and perform a different task, or choose to again water a pond zone tile again using the bucket they currently possess.

v0.31:Irrigation

2010-04-13T17:46:23Z

Darkstar: updated info about mud pile amount

{{av}}
{{elven}}

Irrigation is is the process of adding water to an underground or rock tile so that it can be {{L|farm plot|farmed}}. This is done by flooding the tile with {{L|water}}. Any amount of water will suffice but the less water, the better- farms cannot be built on any square containing water of {{L|water depth|2/7 or deeper}}. Tiles of depth 2/7 will flow into nearby tiles until the area is 1/7 if possible so this is only an issue if deep water is placed in an enclosed area.

Once the water has evaporated or been allowed to flow away, the tile will remain muddied unless a {{L|construction}} is built over it. Viewing the tile will cause it do display 'a pile of mud', 'a small pile of mud', or 'a dusting of mud' in its contents.

Farms can be built on unsuitable ground but doing so will display a warning message. If even a single square of the farm is not irrigated, it will be unusable.

{{L|Magma}}, for obvious reasons, cannot be used to irrigate but can cause {{L|fun}}.

== Early Irrigation ==

All underground tiles, soil or not, require irrigation; Being able to irrigate with as little investment in workshops and mechanisms as possible is useful. While it is possible to {{L|gather plants}} and {{L|Still|brew}} them for alcohol or even farm in above ground soil with the gathered seeds, underground farming is a generally more quick, safe and reliable (and dwarven) way to gain {{L|food}} and {{L|alcohol}}.

One obstacle to early irrigation is the time required to build mechanisms (which cannot be taken when {{L|embark|embarking}} and the time required to set them up. They can also be daunting to newer players and mistakes can result in floods or famine - common sources of {{L|fun}}. The methods below are designed to work without mechanisms.

===Murky Pools===

Most areas contain {{L|murky pool|murky pools}}, which provide one of the quickest, simplest methods of starting a farm. Draining them over an area where they will be at 1/7 will cause them to evaporate, leaving a muddy area.

This is done by finding a small pool -while any finite water source works, the farm will end up being six times the size of it- that is preferably near your fortress's entrance. Distance is an issue as dwarves will often walk between the two. Next, choose an area adjacent to the pool exactly 6 times the size of it, on the same level as the water (ie one level down) for your farm. This area must include the tile(s) that you will dig through so the water can flow in.

Once you have chosen the site of your future farm, dig a ramp or stairs next to it so it can be accessed, then dig out that area leaving the tiles adjacent to the pool until last. Once you dig into those tiles, the pool will flow into the area and fill each square to 1/7 depth. You can build farms immediately on the 1/7 water without waiting for it to evaporate.

If you miscalculate the area, there are two possible outcomes, both easily solvable-

:* If the dug area is too large, some tiles will be left unmuddied. While muddying these squares is a lot of trouble and arguably not worth it, these tiles are perfect for seed stockpiles.
:* If the dug area is too small, there will be at least one tile of 2/7 depth. Until some of the water {{L|evaporation|evaporates}} (which will still happen, albeit slower, in the 1/7 tiles), you won't be able to farm it. However, unless you've drastically miscalculated, dwarves will be able to wade through the water and dig more tiles to expand the farm to the correct size.

===Buckets===

If you have access to a large source of water such as a {{L|brook}} or {{L|river}}, it is possible to irrigate an area with {{l|buckets}}.

To do this, find a subterranean area where you plan to locate your farm and channel the entire area. Remove all the ramps and add stairs/a ramp to access it. Since the farm will be built one level below this, make sure there is nothing below this area.

{{L|activity zone|Designate}} the area directly above the farm as a {{L|pond}}. Dwarves will begin carrying buckets of water from the nearest source to fill it. Keep an eye on the pond and, as soon as the entire area is filled to 1/7, remove the designation immediately. Now that the area is irrigated, place your farm.

If you accidentally add too much water, you can wait for some of the water to evaporate or dig some surrounding tiles to expand the farm until the water is all at 1/7.

40d:Design strategies

2009-12-09T23:15:10Z

Darkstar: /* Grave Importance */ minor fix

==Fortress defense==
See:
:* [[Defense guide]]
:* [[Defense design]]
:* [[Trap design]]
:* [[Military design]]

== 3D map format ==
It's important to remember that 1 [[z-level]] up or down is the same distance for dwarf to walk as 1 tile in any horizontal direction. So, rather than moving from a workshop a couple tiles to the door, and then a few tiles down a short hall, and then a couple or more into the side entrance of a "nearby" storeroom (total of maybe 7+), it's closer to put a [[stair]] or [[ramp]] in that workshop, and for that same dwarf to move over 1, down or up 1, and directly into the what could be the middle of a storeroom on the next level. While this is example uses tiny distances, the idea is the same for larger ones - 15 tiles on one level is the same "distance" as 14 z-levels up or down. And when that distance is repeated hundreds (or thousands?) of times over the life of a fortress, for workshops, for bedrooms, for dining and drinking and breaks, it adds up fast. Optimally, a fortress should be more like a cube, rather than a pancake.

For more information on how to dig passages and structures in a 3D map, see [[digging]].

== Interior design ==
It may seem obvious to experienced players but it should be stated explicitly: for maximal efficiency your dwarves should spend the least amount of time moving about and the most time doing productive things. Fortress interior design is critical to productivity.

=== Modern ===
One means of fort design is the no-nonsense modern design. Modern style architecture revolves around a no-nonsense approach to space usage, usually with long straight corridors and multi function rooms that contain multiple workshops or other points of interest. A typical modern, 2-tile-wide hallway may appear as below:

║..║
══┼═══╬┼┼╬═══┼══
......┼..┼......
......┼..┼......
══┼═══╬┼┼╬═══┼══
║..║

The [[doors]] in the hallway lead to large, multifunction rooms. The paired doors at intersections present an excellent method of containment, as a prevention against [[flood]]ing and also able to be locked against intruders or to contain misbehaving dwarves.

===Diagonal design===
In DF, one step [[orthogonal]]ly (East-West or North-South) is the same "distance" as one step diagonally. Diagonal paths thus provide faster access across distances that are not perfectly in line with each other up/down or left/right. Creating a setup with your main high-traffic areas on diagonals, 2 or 3 wide, is less simple to designate, but saves considerable time and effort for your labour force in the long run. Workshops can be grouped so they are staggered, perhaps 4-6 in a cluster, so that the diagonal halls serve them and still no workshop is isolated. Intersections tend to be larger than those of orthogonal passages, but can be designated with stockpiles of booze or other items to make good use of the space. Diagonal passages that are 1-wide act as barriers to both [[miasma]] and de-pressurize water (in case of [[flood]]s), and can be included periodically throughout a design, especially in 3-wide halls where a single, central pillar will not bottleneck traffic significantly. Adding doors at these points is an additional precaution against intruders and accidents.

===Bedroom design===
See [[bedroom design]].

===Workshop Logistics===

At a certain point, the most important thing for your fortress is not just that you have workshops, but that they are placed ''efficiently''. This can take some forethought and planning to avoid traffic jams and wasted time and effort, but it's usually worth it to have an efficient and smoothly running mature fortress.

See [[workshop layout]].

==Miscellaneous strategies==

===Use for soil layers===
[[Soil]] layers (such as clay, loam, etc.) - which may at first seem to be of secondary importance - are very useful for large storage areas, as they do not leave rock behind when dug through and may be excavated much faster by comparison. You can also farm on soil tiles without first making them muddy.

Since soil cannot be smoothed or detailed, it is a less than ideal medium to assign rooms in. Workshops do not have happy thoughts for increased surrounding worth, so if proximity to another area is not an issue, soil is a great place to put them.

Since soil is primarily located near the surface, where a trade depot is often built, it is very useful to dig out large spaces for furniture and finished goods in soil for several reasons. First, it produces no stone, and is thus very fast to dig out. Secondly, having finished goods as close to the trade depot as possible is necessary for efficient trading.

===Curtain Walls, Orchards and Farmland===
Just because your fortress is underground doesn't mean it has to start there! If you have the labour and the means, a wall outside of your fortress gate, enclosing an area, can be a great way to claim a little land for yourself. You don't even necessarily have to use your front gate either, as you can wall in an area completely, with no entrance, and then open a door through the mountain. Though time-consuming, this will allow you to better weather sieges, by a variety of means. The area can be used to plant above-ground crops, or allow trees to grow as an emergency reserve. Natural ponds can be walled into your fortress's overall design, and clever use of underground rivers to feed them can provide fish and turtles even in a siege. Dwarves can also safely work here to avoid cave adaptation. Furthermore, with a good supply of stone you can just mine straight down and build a curtain wall around the entrance, so if you're challenging yourself on a map without a mountain, this is a good long-term strategy for defense against siege.

===C-Chute===
The C-Chute, or Casualty Chute, is a special internal construction for fortresses with large underground areas mostly disconnected with the surfaces, especially if a fortresses defenses are primarily internal. Basically, a deep pit within the fortress walls, down which goes any dead goblins, wildlife, kolbolds and so forth. They are allowed to decay, but the miasma is too far from the areas dwarfs use to affect your fortress. Once they have rotted away completely, you can enter the chute to retrieve their bones, without ever having to go outside! Also useful for fortresses often under siege, where moving bodies outside is not always possible. This is better than using a room to dispose of the bodies, as the dwarfs dumping the bodies will not have to deal with miasma from other corpses in the dump zone.

=== Grave Importance ===
Dwarves have a long tradition of honoring their dead and while some forts may be too bitter to spare resources on proper [[Tomb|burial]], others can honor and pay respect to their dead. In this design method, hallways do not always intersect, sometimes leading to dead ends where coffins can be placed as well as statues made in the likeness of the former living. Likewise, workshops can also be placed in the center of a 5x5 grid, with the back and side walls used for [[statues]] and [[coffins]]. Once the current area is exhausted and the dwarves are satisfied that their work has been completed, the workshop can be disassembled and the dead left to rest in piece.

===Plumbing & Filtering===
Consider this; You have a very large fortress with all the amenities, including a well-staffed military, valuable trade goods and engravings and lavish halls. Now imagine that same fort with a well-planned and effective plumbing system, delivering water to various spots throughout the fortress. This could be used for anything from killing enemies, casting [[obsidian]], watering your fields, filling your moats and helping your Dwarves. How do you create such a system, you ask?

First, you're going to need a source of [[water]] to draw from. Preferably a [[river]] of some sort, because lakes tend to dry up. Design a large cistern/reservoir inside your fortress, this is where you're going to be storing your water supplies. If you're drawing from a source of salt water, make sure the entire reservoir is built out of constructions, or this won't work. You're going to need a few grates and a lot of floodgates for this. Once you have your cistern dug out/constructed, dig a channel from the top level to your water source. Make sure you install a floodgate and a grate in that channel; The grate is there to filter out unwanted pests like Carp and prevent them from getting into your water supply. Make sure to link the floodgate to a lever so you can control the flow of water; While you're at it, you might want to design a seperate 'plumbing control room' where all the relevant levers for this will be installed. Make sure that before you fill this cistern up, that you install several seperate exits from the cistern that lead into channels which will funnel water to your other systems.

When you're happy with it, you can go ahead and fill your cistern up. Remember to make sure that all your floodgates are linked to levers; You might want to tack notes onto each one so you don't forget which does which. Now you have an easily controllable water source that you can use for all kinds of purposes, including fishing holes and irrigation systems, not to mention powering water wheels. Incidentally, the abovementioned Grate will not prevent small [[fish]] like Salmon from entering your water system. They won't cause any problems and you can fish them out at your leisure.

This system can take a lot of time, effort and resources to pull off, but if it's done right, you'll have a very well designed, fluid (pardon the pun) system for delivering water to all corners of your fortress. Be creative!

NOTE: I said before that it won't work if your cistern isn't made entirely out of constructions if you are using salt water because of one reason. Apparently, water that is pumped through a Screw Pump will be 'desalinated' and thus turned into fresh, potable water. But if that fresh water touches ANY wall or floor that is not made out of constructions, the ENTIRE BODY of water becomes 'resalinated', and reverts to salt water.

===Dams===
See [[dam]].

[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Guides]]

40d:Design strategies

2009-12-09T23:14:01Z

Darkstar: /* Grave Importance */ grammar fix

==Fortress defense==
See:
:* [[Defense guide]]
:* [[Defense design]]
:* [[Trap design]]
:* [[Military design]]

== 3D map format ==
It's important to remember that 1 [[z-level]] up or down is the same distance for dwarf to walk as 1 tile in any horizontal direction. So, rather than moving from a workshop a couple tiles to the door, and then a few tiles down a short hall, and then a couple or more into the side entrance of a "nearby" storeroom (total of maybe 7+), it's closer to put a [[stair]] or [[ramp]] in that workshop, and for that same dwarf to move over 1, down or up 1, and directly into the what could be the middle of a storeroom on the next level. While this is example uses tiny distances, the idea is the same for larger ones - 15 tiles on one level is the same "distance" as 14 z-levels up or down. And when that distance is repeated hundreds (or thousands?) of times over the life of a fortress, for workshops, for bedrooms, for dining and drinking and breaks, it adds up fast. Optimally, a fortress should be more like a cube, rather than a pancake.

For more information on how to dig passages and structures in a 3D map, see [[digging]].

== Interior design ==
It may seem obvious to experienced players but it should be stated explicitly: for maximal efficiency your dwarves should spend the least amount of time moving about and the most time doing productive things. Fortress interior design is critical to productivity.

=== Modern ===
One means of fort design is the no-nonsense modern design. Modern style architecture revolves around a no-nonsense approach to space usage, usually with long straight corridors and multi function rooms that contain multiple workshops or other points of interest. A typical modern, 2-tile-wide hallway may appear as below:

║..║
══┼═══╬┼┼╬═══┼══
......┼..┼......
......┼..┼......
══┼═══╬┼┼╬═══┼══
║..║

The [[doors]] in the hallway lead to large, multifunction rooms. The paired doors at intersections present an excellent method of containment, as a prevention against [[flood]]ing and also able to be locked against intruders or to contain misbehaving dwarves.

===Diagonal design===
In DF, one step [[orthogonal]]ly (East-West or North-South) is the same "distance" as one step diagonally. Diagonal paths thus provide faster access across distances that are not perfectly in line with each other up/down or left/right. Creating a setup with your main high-traffic areas on diagonals, 2 or 3 wide, is less simple to designate, but saves considerable time and effort for your labour force in the long run. Workshops can be grouped so they are staggered, perhaps 4-6 in a cluster, so that the diagonal halls serve them and still no workshop is isolated. Intersections tend to be larger than those of orthogonal passages, but can be designated with stockpiles of booze or other items to make good use of the space. Diagonal passages that are 1-wide act as barriers to both [[miasma]] and de-pressurize water (in case of [[flood]]s), and can be included periodically throughout a design, especially in 3-wide halls where a single, central pillar will not bottleneck traffic significantly. Adding doors at these points is an additional precaution against intruders and accidents.

===Bedroom design===
See [[bedroom design]].

===Workshop Logistics===

At a certain point, the most important thing for your fortress is not just that you have workshops, but that they are placed ''efficiently''. This can take some forethought and planning to avoid traffic jams and wasted time and effort, but it's usually worth it to have an efficient and smoothly running mature fortress.

See [[workshop layout]].

==Miscellaneous strategies==

===Use for soil layers===
[[Soil]] layers (such as clay, loam, etc.) - which may at first seem to be of secondary importance - are very useful for large storage areas, as they do not leave rock behind when dug through and may be excavated much faster by comparison. You can also farm on soil tiles without first making them muddy.

Since soil cannot be smoothed or detailed, it is a less than ideal medium to assign rooms in. Workshops do not have happy thoughts for increased surrounding worth, so if proximity to another area is not an issue, soil is a great place to put them.

Since soil is primarily located near the surface, where a trade depot is often built, it is very useful to dig out large spaces for furniture and finished goods in soil for several reasons. First, it produces no stone, and is thus very fast to dig out. Secondly, having finished goods as close to the trade depot as possible is necessary for efficient trading.

===Curtain Walls, Orchards and Farmland===
Just because your fortress is underground doesn't mean it has to start there! If you have the labour and the means, a wall outside of your fortress gate, enclosing an area, can be a great way to claim a little land for yourself. You don't even necessarily have to use your front gate either, as you can wall in an area completely, with no entrance, and then open a door through the mountain. Though time-consuming, this will allow you to better weather sieges, by a variety of means. The area can be used to plant above-ground crops, or allow trees to grow as an emergency reserve. Natural ponds can be walled into your fortress's overall design, and clever use of underground rivers to feed them can provide fish and turtles even in a siege. Dwarves can also safely work here to avoid cave adaptation. Furthermore, with a good supply of stone you can just mine straight down and build a curtain wall around the entrance, so if you're challenging yourself on a map without a mountain, this is a good long-term strategy for defense against siege.

===C-Chute===
The C-Chute, or Casualty Chute, is a special internal construction for fortresses with large underground areas mostly disconnected with the surfaces, especially if a fortresses defenses are primarily internal. Basically, a deep pit within the fortress walls, down which goes any dead goblins, wildlife, kolbolds and so forth. They are allowed to decay, but the miasma is too far from the areas dwarfs use to affect your fortress. Once they have rotted away completely, you can enter the chute to retrieve their bones, without ever having to go outside! Also useful for fortresses often under siege, where moving bodies outside is not always possible. This is better than using a room to dispose of the bodies, as the dwarfs dumping the bodies will not have to deal with miasma from other corpses in the dump zone.

=== Grave Importance ===
Dwarves have a long tradition of honoring their dead and while some forts may be too bitter to spare resources on proper [[Tomb|burial]], others can honor and pay respect to their dead. In this design method, hallways do not always intersect, sometimes leading to dead ends where coffins can be placed as well as statues made in the likeness of the former living. Likewise, workshops can also be placed in the center of a 5x5 grid, with the back and side walls used for [[statues]] and [[coffins]]. Once the current area is exhausted and the past dwarves are satisfied that their work has been completed, the workshop can be disassembled and the dead left to rest in piece.

===Plumbing & Filtering===
Consider this; You have a very large fortress with all the amenities, including a well-staffed military, valuable trade goods and engravings and lavish halls. Now imagine that same fort with a well-planned and effective plumbing system, delivering water to various spots throughout the fortress. This could be used for anything from killing enemies, casting [[obsidian]], watering your fields, filling your moats and helping your Dwarves. How do you create such a system, you ask?

First, you're going to need a source of [[water]] to draw from. Preferably a [[river]] of some sort, because lakes tend to dry up. Design a large cistern/reservoir inside your fortress, this is where you're going to be storing your water supplies. If you're drawing from a source of salt water, make sure the entire reservoir is built out of constructions, or this won't work. You're going to need a few grates and a lot of floodgates for this. Once you have your cistern dug out/constructed, dig a channel from the top level to your water source. Make sure you install a floodgate and a grate in that channel; The grate is there to filter out unwanted pests like Carp and prevent them from getting into your water supply. Make sure to link the floodgate to a lever so you can control the flow of water; While you're at it, you might want to design a seperate 'plumbing control room' where all the relevant levers for this will be installed. Make sure that before you fill this cistern up, that you install several seperate exits from the cistern that lead into channels which will funnel water to your other systems.

When you're happy with it, you can go ahead and fill your cistern up. Remember to make sure that all your floodgates are linked to levers; You might want to tack notes onto each one so you don't forget which does which. Now you have an easily controllable water source that you can use for all kinds of purposes, including fishing holes and irrigation systems, not to mention powering water wheels. Incidentally, the abovementioned Grate will not prevent small [[fish]] like Salmon from entering your water system. They won't cause any problems and you can fish them out at your leisure.

This system can take a lot of time, effort and resources to pull off, but if it's done right, you'll have a very well designed, fluid (pardon the pun) system for delivering water to all corners of your fortress. Be creative!

NOTE: I said before that it won't work if your cistern isn't made entirely out of constructions if you are using salt water because of one reason. Apparently, water that is pumped through a Screw Pump will be 'desalinated' and thus turned into fresh, potable water. But if that fresh water touches ANY wall or floor that is not made out of constructions, the ENTIRE BODY of water becomes 'resalinated', and reverts to salt water.

===Dams===
See [[dam]].

[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Guides]]

Bloodline:Ringfissures Year 2

2009-11-17T00:11:17Z

Darkstar: /* Hematite */ - minor typo/grammar fix

__TOC__
 
==Player: Bobothebum==
''There were quite a lot of screenshots, so those were placed to the right as thumbnails. Click to enlarge.'' 
==Granite==

First of Granite 

I've been told there are great riches to be had far in the east in the newfounded fortress of Ringfissures. I signed up immediately, hearing tales of its vast halls, its sprawling workshops, and best of all, its tremendous farmlands! The strength of a fort lies in its agriculture, as any good dwarf knows, and I was flattered to be able to be the fort overseer for a year.

What I got was three workshops in a hellscorched landscape, with two square feet of farmland. 

[[Image:1-1.png|thumb|First of Granite 1]]

On the way in, I also spotted something that filled me with foreboding.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-2BANANA.png|thumb|First of Granite 2]]

This is going to be a long year. 

Fifth of Granite

The miner and the previous leader here both have yet to do any work. They keep insisting that they are "on break." Absurd! 

Our cook, and brewer, and planter, wandered off today under the insistence of "gathering plants", despite my insistence that he prepare us food and drink. I hope he fries out there - he should know it's too dangerous to go outside. 

Sixth of Granite

May the gods save me from uttering any more oaths.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-3-1.png|thumb|Sixth of Granite 1]]

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-4-1.png|thumb|Sixth of Granite 2]]

I'll have a proper burial for him as soon as that imp leaves the area. May he become one with the mountain once again.

In light of recent events, no dwarf may go outside until further notice. 

Seventh of Granite

A quick note: all the animals in the fortress were kept up in a single cage. I've released most of them in order to facilitate vermin hunting and breeding.

On a related note, I've mandated the construction of kennels, in the hopes of training some hunting and war dogs. The outside world has proved itself more than vicious enough to warrant it. 

Thirteenth of Granite

The previous leader has taken it upon himself to bring that dwarf inside. Despite my warnings, he appears to be heading right for the fire imp's den. I pray for his safety.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-5-1.png|thumb|Thirteenth of Granite 1]]
[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-6-1.png|thumb|Thirteenth of Granite 2]] 

Seventeenth of Granite

I tried to order everyone back inside -- the elven caravan had arrived, and I expected them to take care of that vile imp.

The imp was too smart for me. It headed our herbalist off.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-7-1.png|thumb|Seventeenth of Granite 1]]

Our retired leader proved to be too incompetent to distract the damned beast for even a second.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-8.png|thumb|Seventeenth of Granite 2]]

Another lost to that vile imp -- I fear for this fortress as a whole. I wonder if it can survive until we get some migrants. 

Twenty-Second of Granite

I can't help but allow myself a grim smile. The imp is scaring off the elf merchants.
[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-9.png|thumb|Twenty-Second of Granite]] 

Twenty-Fifth of Granite

I take back everything I said about this Phrost character. He is a grand credit to the fortress.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-10.png|thumb|Twenty-Fifth of Granite]]

And with that muskox dead and the elves refusing to touch it, we just got ourselves a whole lot of equipment. Talk about a silver ore lining. 

Twenty-Seventh of Granite

Hah! The imp scared those pansy elves off. 

==Slate==

Fifth of Slate 
Caught two kobold thieves today. This doesn't bode well for the near future.
 
Undated

Nothing important to mention. 
 

Twenty-Second of Slate

Glorious, a set of migrants!

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-11.png|thumb|Twenty-Second of Slate]] 

Twenty-Sixth of Slate

While digging out some proper bedrooms, our miner struck native copper! Looks like we'll need to put a few bedrooms elsewhere.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-12.png|thumb|Twenty-Sixth of Slate]]

To the left in that map, you can also see I've dug out some proper farmland for the fort. 

==Felsite==

First of Felsite

Oh, Gods, no. Not already. Not now.
[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-13-1.png|thumb|First of Felsite]]

I don't even have a clotheshop for this...bitch! This does not bode well. 

Second of Felsite

Suspended secret project in order to get clothiershop made. 

Fourth of Felsite

The clothiershop has been constructed, and the secretive clothesmaker has claimed it.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-14.png|thumb|Fourth of Felsite]]

Secret project resumed. 

Sixth of Felsite

Continuing to mine out native copper vein; successfully built a small channel of magma for a few furnaces.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-15.png|thumb|Sixth of Felsite]] 

Twelfth of Felsite

The murky ground by the farms is slowly filling with water - I think I'll have to channel that area out, sadly. Further, I'm working on tapping that nearby brook for an indoor well - I'll be placing floodgates in preparation of a mining mishap. 

Fourteenth of Felsite

No. No.

No no no no.

So much for keeping my secret project a secret - it wasn't finished in time.

Vengeance has come.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-16.png|thumb|Fourteenth of Felsite 1]]

As if meant to be an exclamation mark to today's events, the clothier has finished her work.
[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-17.png|thumb|Fourteenth of Felsite 2]] 

Seventeenth of Felsite

Remind me to never get on that cheesemaker's bad side. He took down the fire imp's avenger with no wounds.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-18.png|thumb|Seventeenth of Felsite]] 

Twenty-third of Felsite

I've set up a door and cistern system so we can have an artificial well that we can fill up as needed safely. Continuing excavation of further farmland and continuing to excavate native copper ore. 

==Hematite==

Summer is here. 

Second of Hematite

As I write this, I'm watching our miner breach the final wall into the stream. Soon, we'll have water! Precious wa-- 

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-19.png|thumb|First of Hematite]] 

Sixth of Hematite

That was a close call, at best.

I've had to excavate some of the fortress for the sole purpose of trying to drain some water. What happened was, the lever close to the floodgate was too close to the area to be flooded; no one could swim up to it to shut it down for quite a while. 

Tenth of Hematite

Post flood, a cloud of miasma is hanging over the butcher's shop, with no discernible source.

Also noticed we're getting dangerously low on booze. 

Twelfth of Hematite

The butcher seems to be empty, but miasma continues to drift out. 

Thirteenth of Hematite

Glorious! The anti-imp wall has been completed!

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-20.png|thumb|Thirteenth of Hematite]] 

Fifteenth of Hematite

Human caravan just arrived today. Let's see what they have to offer, shall we? 

Sixteenth of Hematite

As the caravan continues to approach, a goblin snatcher triggered one of Phrost's cage traps. I'm debating whether to throw him into the magma pipe, or sell him to the human traders. 

Eighteenth of Hematite

Merchants still haven't got here yet. Phrost has been refusing to talk to the guild representative, insisting that the stockpiles be organized is far, far more important. The butcher continues to release bursts of miasma. 

Nineteenth of Hematite

As usual, the arrival of the caravan attracted a kobold thief, who was discovered before he even reached the cage traps. Phrost has finally begun the meeting with the humans. I've decided to try and sell the goblin, equipment and all, as a monument to the power of Ringfissures. 

Twenty-First of Hematite

The human liaison was found dead at the top of our staircase today. Phrost has been milling around the trade depot, whistling suspiciously.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-21.png|thumb|Twenty-First of Hematite 1]]

Further, the goblin thief has broken out while being brought to the depot - I trust that either he'll be recaught or the humans will deal with him, so I'm not even going to have anyone bother him. Let him try and find a way out.

Hahaha.

Hahhahaha.

The damned thief was run over by the wagons, and is now unconscious. The human hammerer is now having a fantastic time with the unconscious body, and it is because of this that I worry that they'll see the liaision's corpse - - the goblin thief is now nothing but several pieces on the ground.

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-22.png|thumb|Twenty-First of Hematite 2]]

Trading will begin as soon as all our goods are brought to the depot. 

Twenty-First of Hematite

The good hauling continues, and I have to ask the goblin race: really? Really?? Another goblin snatcher was just spotted.

In the name of the mountain! Another! 

Twenty-Second of Hematite

This is getting outright absurd - we discovered a kobold thief today. We still haven't finished bringing everything to the depot, either.

On a different note, I wonder if those merchants will buy their liaision's clothing back... 

Twenty-Seventh of Hematite

After many days of negotiation, we've finished. I've traded all the useless crafts and instruments in the fortress for beer, food, seeds, cloth, and an anvil. Those humans bought back all their fallen ally's clothing right alongside the goblin's! Ha! 

==Malachite==

Fifteenth of Malachite

Merchants started packing up today. Finally built a forge over the magma to use all this copper. Melted down all of the goblin's equipment.

Excavating more copper, and more farmland.

Making the sheriff an office, a dining room, and a bedroom.

Making a jail.

Not much else to mention.

I guess I'll go sleep. 

Sixteenth of Malachite

You know, you think I'd be happy life has been so successful and uneventful lately.

Maybe I should try and rig up a waterfall over the entrance. That'd be nice for everyone.

Hm. But business first, unnecessary and dangerous plans later.

Our head miner finished his fifteen day break today. Finally - the other two have been making a mess of the copper. The jail was installed just fine, with two cells. I'm contemplating where to place a new dining hall. 

Twenty-Second of Malachite

The butcher's released yet another burst of miasma today. I just don't understand it -- I can't wait til we can move it away from the bedrooms. In fact, I think I'll start that right now. 

Thirtieth of Malachite

Pit completed - all garbage will be thrown to the bottom, including delicious animal parts. 

==Galena==

Tenth of Galena

Upon deconstruction of the butcher's shop to be moved down two levels, several dead animals were found in the foundation. I maintain that the miasma coming from it before were totally magical, and these dead animals are completely unrelated.

~

You know, I've been feeling kind of tired lately. I have these terrible nightmares of imps and macaques -- I can't wait for this year to end.

~

Oh, god no. Not while Phrost is shut up in his room, doing his tallies. What do I do what do I do what do I do
[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-23-1.png]]

Oh god one took a hood where are they I can't find them I'll get you I'll get you into the magma pit you'll go my pretties yessir toss you in a cage and you'll ''burnburn''burn'''burn'''burn'''BURN!''' I don't take kindly to thieves ''BURN''burn''burnburn''!!

There you are you're gonna get caught and then you're going to BURNburnburnburn'''burn'''burn'''BURRRRRRNNNNNNNNNNNNNN'''!!

The impslayer got a macaque But they won't take the bait they won't come in they should come in so they can '''burnburn'''''burnburn''!!

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-24-1.png]]

That's it come inside come inside it's warm in here maybe too warm for you you'll '''burn'''''burn''burnburnburn'''BURNburn'''burn'''burn'''!

Only one got caught with the rest leaving why are you leaving you should come in come in come in and burn'''HAILMAGMREIL'''!!!

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-25-1.png]] 

Twelfth of Galena

Looking back these pages, I seem to have suffered a minor nervous breakdown. (Hail Magmreil...?) No matter. The macaques have run away for now, and only made off with a few socks and hats.

I can't wait for this year to end. 

Fourteenth of Galena

I'm making a bit of a platform over the magma pit for execution of prisoners...and macaques. 

Eighteenth of Galena

I've mandated the taming of the captured rhesus macaque. I'll probably chain it to the entrance, or have it accompany our hunter, or something. 

==Limestone==

Autumn. 

Thirteenth of Limestone 
The Rhesus Macaque was successfully caught, tamed, and chained in the entrance hallway area. If I could get a male I could breed some for the fortress...

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-26.png]] 

Fourteenth of Limestone

Dwarven caravan has arrived.

Fifteenth of Limestone

What the...?!

[[Image:RingfissuresYear2-27.png]]

What in the world? Our liaison to the grand mountainhome is a..a goblin?! Dammit Phrost -- why didn't you tell me? 

Nineteenth of Limestone

So, the merchants have arrived, and I have so very little to trade with them. All the craftsmen seem to be too busy on my grand creation to make a few flutes. 

Twenty-fourth of Limestone

Finally got the sheriff to make some rock crafts. I want to get as much wealth out there in the wide world as possible, to attract migrants. 

==Sandstone==

Fifth of Sandstone

Started trading. Dwarven caravan had little to offer - so far I've only bought us a few lumps of bauxite and a couple of cats to keep the firesnake population down. I'll probably buy some of their booze, too - - I just wish they brought more wood and bauxite. 

Sixth of Sandstone

One of the children threw a party in the barracks today. Fantastic. 

Thirteenth of Sandstone

With the traders about to leave, I've traded all our useless crafts for booze. 

Twenty-fourth of Sandstone

I've ordered the construction of my room right next to the warmth of the magma vent. 

That kid threw another party. 

==Timber==

Tenth of Timber

Some migrants arrived today.

Just in time, too - the execution bridge just finished. 

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-28.png]] 

Erm. Not that the two are related in that I'm going to execute the migrants. I mean.

Um.

~

I hope they don't want to sleep anytime soon - I simply don't have enough bedrooms to accommodate them all yet.]

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-29.png]] 

Seventeenth of Timber

A fisherdwarf got struck with a secretive mood today, and has claimed a craftsdwarfs workshop. Let's see what he makes - I should be prepared this time.

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-30.png]] 

Nineteenth of Timber

Right about now I'm realizing we don't have any turtle shells. I hope he doesn't request any. 

Twenty-first of Timber

All he's demanding is bones, bones, and more bones. I've ordered a few of our cats slaughtered, accordingly. 

Twenty-fourth of Timber

The fisherman has started carving something, but he won't let me see what. 

==Moonstone==

It's wintertime. Almost done running this fortress. 

First of Moonstone

He's done. How...completely useful.

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-31.png]] 

Fourteenth of Moonstone

Bedrooms "mostly" done. The fancy bedrooms can be completed another day, another overseer.

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-32.png]] 

Twenty-Eighth of Moonstone

Filled the gap beneath the front drawbridge with beautiful, beautiful magma.

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-33.png]]

==Opal==
[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-35.png|thumb|Twentieth of Opal]]
[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-34.png|thumb|Fourteenth of Opal]]
Fourteenth of Opal

Cold.

Cold cold cold.

I hate winter.

 
Twentieth of Opal

Brook unfroze today. That's good. I guess.

I'm cold.

I wanna go back to my furnace.

==Obsidian==
So. Close. To retirement. 

Fifteenth of Obsidian

A fishersdwarf gave birth today. The baby, if I may say so myself, is ugly. 

Nineteenth of Obsidian

And here I was thinking I'd end the year on a pleasant, quiet note. One of my fellow furnace operators has been possessed.

[[Image:Ringfissures Year2-36.png]]

He's demanding raw and cut gems, metal bars, and cloth.

Good luck to whatever dwarf is next.

Fantastic.