Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

v0.34:Swimmer

2016-03-21T22:59:49Z

Khearn: /* Drowning */ Changed experience level numbers to match numbers in the Experience page (dabbling=0, novice=1, adequate=2)

{{quality|Exceptional|22:28, 24 February 2013 (UTC)}}
{{Skill
| color = 3:0
| skill = Swimmer
| specialty = Peasant
| profession = None
| job name = None
| tasks =
* Getting in and out of water
* Staying calm underwater
| attributes =
* Strength
* Agility
* Endurance
* Willpower
* Spatial Sense
* Kinesthetic Sense
}}
{{av}}

'''Swimmer''' is a skill used by creatures to move through [[tile]]s containing [[depth|deep]] liquid (primarily [[water]]), and generally avoid drowning.

Creatures may have a {{token|SWIM_SPEED|c}} [[creature token]] that modifies their movement [[speed]] while swimming. A typical value of 2500 results in the creature moving roughly one third as fast in water as the default speed on land. A creature's effective swimming speed is modified by its Swimmer skill level; a legendary swimmer may be ''faster'' in water than on land.

== Drowning ==
Dwarves with dabbling (level 0) or no [[experience]] as Swimmers will start drowning immediately upon contact with deep surface [[water]] (i.e. surface water of 7/7 depth). Those of novice (level 1) level experience or greater can be in deep surface water without drowning. Any dwarf will start drowning in 7/7 water if there is more water on levels above them (e.g. they are at the bottom of a two level deep cistern, or the bottom of the ocean). A [[bridge]] (or presumably any other building that prevents access to the air above the water) will also cause non-aquatic/amphibious creatures to begin drowning in 7/7 water--this can be useful for disposing of trolls in a [[drowning chamber|drowning]] [[pit trap|pit]].

Any conscious, uninjured, not stunned dwarf finding themselves in water of depth 4/7 or greater will try to leave if they can find a path out of around 20 tiles in length or less.[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=116764.0] If they can't find an exit within that distance, they won't move.

Dabbling swimmers require a [[ramp]] or [[stairs|stairway]] within 20 tiles to have any chance of getting out of deep water. Fortunately every natural shallow body of water has ramps.

Novice swimmers are able to get out of deep water safely without needing a ramp or stairway, but they will start drowning if [[Status_icons|stunned]]. Once that happens it can be difficult to get them out, as they lose the ability to exit anywhere and behave just like an untrained or dabbling swimmer. Everyone is stunned by falling into water rather than entering it calmly, which is what normally happens when they aren't entering it of their [[Carp|own free will]].

Adequate (level 2) swimmers do not panic and start drowning in that situation, even when attacked, so training to this level is highly recommended. Higher levels only increase speed while swimming.

Note that you can drown in [[magma]] as well, but most creatures tend to melt first.

== Learning/Teaching swimming ==
A dwarf in the water will gain the ability to swim very fast - sadly not fast enough to prevent death from drowning. While water with a depth of 7/7 is deadly for non-swimmers, 6/7 or less will not harm any dwarf. So you can use water from 4/7 to 6/7 safely to teach your little ones how to swim. The speed of learning is independent of the depth, but water with a depth less of than 4/7 is not deep enough to make a dwarf swim, and therefore learn anything.

Training your little ones just requires a place of constantly or temporarily 4-6/7 water. Military orders or making rooms a meeting hall will not entice dwarves into the water, so you may need to prevent them from leaving an area (locked door, etc.) and then fill the area with the required amount of water, or dump them in from above using a [[bridge|retracting bridge]].

Swimming, since it involves no activity, can be potentially useful to train physically handicapped dwarves, whose conditions might go away or become manageable with an attribute boost to strength, endurance, willpower etc.

A fully automated method to train idlers is to use water flowing over a 1-z drop, with a 1-wide meeting zone at the top of the ledge, and a swimming pool at the bottom. Idlers will go to the meeting zone, be swept over the side into the pool and swim to the ramp, and repeat this for as long as they are idle. The meeting zone must have a low enough rate of flow that it has unsubmerged tiles, so dwarves voluntarily move into it. This can be accomplished with tricks like restricting flow through diagonal passages (see [[Pressure]] for details). Be aware that in recent versions dwarves can now suffer injuries more easily when [[gravity|falling]], so this method can cause serious harm when the dwarves are washed over the edge. Constructing the landing zone out of [[density|lighter]] materials will help prevent serious complications.

Diagram of the 'fully automated' configuration described above:

.... - (pool continues as desired)
║≈≈≈≈║ - depth 4-6 swimming pool on Z-1
║+++▲║ - dropoff / entrance ramp from above
║<nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>║ - meeting hall, depth 0-3
╚╗%╔═╝
║%║ - screw pump (S->N)
║.║ - limited pump source (e.g. depth ~4-per-tick tile on Z-1)
╚═╝
Not pictured: exit from the swimming pool, preferably close to the entrance ramp to minimize delays in training.

===Minecart training===

With the addition of [[minecart]]s, a safe automated swimming experience can be almost guaranteed. Originally, the design involved hauling dwarves down into a pond and forcing them to swim back out.[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=129889.0] However, it was discovered that dwarves gain swimming skill while simply riding in the minecart. A simple loop track which descends 1 z-level into a pool of water then climbs back out will train your dwarves quickly and conveniently. It is advisable to ensure your pond has a uniform depth--fluid [[flow]] can interfere with the minecart, even knocking it off-track. A depth of 4/7 or 5/7 is ideal. Note that water will slow the minecart considerably; you'll want an impulse ramp after roughly 10 tiles of 4/7 water.

{{diagram|spaces=yes|\
z z+1
░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
░╔══▲══════════▲══════╗░ ░ ░
░║░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░║░ ░ ░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ░
░╚════▲═══▲░░░▲══════▲╝░ ░ ▼╗+╞▼ ░
░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ░░░░░░░░░░░║^░░░░░░░░░░░
░+░ ░H+░
░+░ ░░+░
}}
# Carve the tracks and add impulse ramps (shown) or rollers on level z.
# Optionally, add [[statue]]s or other buildings along the tracks for your dwarves to [[thought|admire]] (make sure to leave the corner walls intact).
# Fill the track section on layer z with 4/7 water.
# Link the pressure plate '^' to the hatch cover 'H' (this is necessary to automatically dispose of [[wear|worn]] clothing that dwarves drop at the end of the ride).
# Set stop 1 to ride down the ramp to the east immediately/always.
# Assign a minecart to the route (wooden minecarts are recommended in case of collisions).
# Dwarves with the "Push/Haul Vehicles" labor enabled will now automatically train swimming.

== Adventure Mode ==
In [[adventurer mode]], as a novice swimmer, by standing next to a body of water and moving carefully ({{k|alt}}+direction) in the direction of the water and selecting the option to move below (such as West/Below), you can swim about without getting stunned and starting to drown. To get out, alt-move carefully against a shoreline and select the option to move above (or, simply move toward the shore. You will climb out automatically).

Swimmers can also dive and rise through the [[z-axis]] by pressing {{k|>}} and {{k|<}} respectively. Note that air-breathers will be unable to breathe without air in the tile above them, and without returning to the surface will eventually drown. (Sadly, there's no oxygen meter as of yet, so you'll never know when they're about to expire. Don't linger too long.)

In adventure mode, water preference can be switched between "when possible" and "necessary" by pressing {{k|m}}.

To teach companions to swim, some patience is necessary. Enter a body of water until they follow you inside, then immediately get out. They will flounder around and attempt to get out before they drown, but as long as they make it back on land, they will gain swimming experience. Repeat until they manage to swim without drowning.

If the temperature (press {{k|P}}) is "freezing" or if it is "cold" and close to sundown, the water may freeze while you are swimming, which instantly kills you and leaves your frozen corpse encased in ice and a valuable find for archeologists.
{{Skills}}

Gravity

2016-03-11T02:35:46Z

Khearn: Added value of g in DF.

{{Quality|Superior|07:37, 17 May 2015 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''"The bigger they are, the harder they fall"''

'''Gravity''' in Dwarf Fortress shares similarities to the real world but has some key differences. Items, creatures and fluids will descend under gravity, moving to a lower [[z-level]] in the right circumstances. While this mimics the real world, the biggest key differences are listed below:
* In a [[cave-in]], terrain collapses to the lowest point instantly, however items, creatures and buildings fall more slowly (over multiple ticks)
* Buildings in a cave in will instantly deconstruct before they fall, and the resulting items will then fall separately
* Items and creatures that are thrown, shot, cut off and sent flying, knocked back or generally expected to travel in a parabolic arc will tend to do so (within the limitations of the game tiles); one notable exception is for [[siege engine]]s, which currently launch projectiles in a flat trajectory.
* Creatures and items accelerate while falling. Water falls at a semi-random rate, taking between 5 and 20 ticks to fall a single z-level.
* Creatures that fall into water decelerate, generally suffering less overall damage upon impact with the bottom. Drowning while stunned, however, is still a concern.
* The [[density]] of the material in the landing zone can have a significant effect on the outcome of a fall. Light materials like [[featherwood]] reduce the risk of serious injury, while dense materials like [[platinum]] increase it.
* Creatures that are dropped onto a standing creature's head will generally suffer little damage regardless of how many z-levels they fell. The unfortunate creature who broke their fall may suffer significant damage, however.
* The value of g in df for a falling dwarf is .032075 ± .000015 Z-levels/tick^2 based on drops of 59 z-levels done on v0.34.10. More recent tests on v0.42.0X show this value appears to have stayed constant. The value of g may be different for inanimate objects or liquids. More science is needed.

In general, falls of 1-2 z-levels are unlikely to cause significant damage to your dwarves, and goblins have been seen to fall more than four with only light bruising and stunning. Large falls (30+ z-levels) will tend to cause the hapless victim to explode upon impact. The minimum drop with 100% mortality appears to be around 25 z-levels.[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=110718.0|1]

On the other hand, falling items and creatures can cause grave injury to any creature they fall upon, even when falling a single z-level.{{bug|5945}} A falling [[giant cave spider]] web can easily break the neck of your master weaver, while [[wear|worn]] [[clothing]] is liable to maim or kill anyone below. Refuse dumping may therefore be [[Trap_design#Falling_debris_trap|weaponized]]. Just take care that your own dwarves do not mistakenly pummel one another with falling stones.

Giant firefly

2016-03-01T21:45:38Z

Khearn: Added new butchery data point.

{{Creaturelookup/0
|skin=chitin
|meat=42-51
|brain=2
|intestine=8
|heart=1
|eye=2
|fat=17
|contrib=no
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}
{{new in v0.42}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

User:Khearn

2016-02-03T20:24:57Z

Khearn: /* My own pages */

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (January 2016), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.

===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.
* Some forum posts I want to be able to find. Mostly useful designs like traps and such.
** RocheLimit's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=142446.msg5580165#msg5580165 Automated Cavern Trap]. Trapavoid building destroyers take out a floodgate, allowing water to trigger a pressure plate, raising bridges.
** Zuglar's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=114137.0 live target archery range].
** Vattic's [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1675-semi-automaticorcsiclemaker Orcsicle maker] freezing water trap.

===My own pages===
I haven't written some of these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/Mechanics101 Mechanical Primer] - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

User:Khearn

2016-02-03T20:24:25Z

Khearn: /* My own pages */ Added link to Mechanics101

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (January 2016), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.

===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.
* Some forum posts I want to be able to find. Mostly useful designs like traps and such.
** RocheLimit's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=142446.msg5580165#msg5580165 Automated Cavern Trap]. Trapavoid building destroyers take out a floodgate, allowing water to trigger a pressure plate, raising bridges.
** Zuglar's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=114137.0 live target archery range].
** Vattic's [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1675-semi-automaticorcsiclemaker Orcsicle maker] freezing water trap.

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/Mechanics101 Mechanical Primer] - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

User:Khearn/Mechanics101

2016-02-03T20:22:59Z

Khearn: Initial version. Table of how devices react to on and off signals.

This is a collection of basic stuff one needs to know about mechanical stuff.

==== Open/Close signals ====

Many people seem to assume that levers and pressure plates send a toggle signal, that causes a bridge/door/whatever to simply change state. This is wrong, they send either an "on" or an "off", and the target responds, depending on what it is. It's a trivial difference if only one lever is connected to one bridge, since pulling the lever twice will get them synced up and henceforth pulls do indeed simply toggle the bridge (as long as they don't come too fast).

But if you connect two levers to the same bridge, things get more complicated. Pulling lever 1 may raise the bridge, but then pulling lever 2 doesn't seem to do anything, because it sends an on to the bridge that was already raised. At this point, but levers are in the on position, and pulling either one will lower the bridge.

Note that you can tell what state a lever is in by it's character (assuming you use ASCII - but most tilesets make it fairly obvious). If it's an ó then it is in the on position (and will send an off if pulled), and if it's an ò it is in the off position.

Here's a summary of the various things you can link a lever to, what they do when they get an on or off, and the delays that might be involved.

{| class="wikitable"
! rowspan="2" | Item
! colspan="2" | On
! colspan="2" | Off
|-
! Action
! Delay
! Action
! Delay
|-
| Bridge
| Raises or retracts
| 100 ticks
| Lowers or extends
| 100 ticks
|-
| Door
| Opens
| Immediately
| Closes
| Immediately
|-
| Floodgate
| Opens
| 100 ticks
| Closes
| 100 ticks
|-
| Floor Hatch
| Opens
| Immediately
| Closes
| Immediately
|-
| Grate (vert or horiz)
| Opens
| 100 ticks
| Closes
| 100 ticks
|-
| Bars
| Opens
| 100 ticks
| Closes
| 100 ticks
|-
| Upright Spears/Spikes
| Retracts
| 40 ticks
| Extends
| 40 ticks
|-
| Gear assembly
| Toggles
| Immediately
| Toggles
| Immediately
|-
| Track Stop
| Disables
| Immediately
| Enables
| Immediately
|-
| Cage
| Opens/deconstructs the cage
| Immediately
| N/A
| N/A
|-
| Rope/Chain
| Releases/Deconstructs
| Immediately
| N/A
| N/A
|-
| Support
| Deconstructs
| Immediately
| N/A
| N/A
|}

Pressure plates send an on signal immediately when their criteria is met, and an off signal 99 ticks later.

Note that some things may respond to a signal a tick later, depending on the order in which things were built. See [[Pressure Plate#Build order]] for more details.

User:Khearn

2016-02-03T19:30:32Z

Khearn: /* Who is this guy? */

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (January 2016), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.

===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.
* Some forum posts I want to be able to find. Mostly useful designs like traps and such.
** RocheLimit's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=142446.msg5580165#msg5580165 Automated Cavern Trap]. Trapavoid building destroyers take out a floodgate, allowing water to trigger a pressure plate, raising bridges.
** Zuglar's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=114137.0 live target archery range].
** Vattic's [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1675-semi-automaticorcsiclemaker Orcsicle maker] freezing water trap.

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* Mechanical Primer - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

User:Khearn

2016-02-03T19:29:19Z

Khearn: /* Useful links */ Added link to Vattic's Orcsicle maker

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (November 2011), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.
===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.
* Some forum posts I want to be able to find. Mostly useful designs like traps and such.
** RocheLimit's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=142446.msg5580165#msg5580165 Automated Cavern Trap]. Trapavoid building destroyers take out a floodgate, allowing water to trigger a pressure plate, raising bridges.
** Zuglar's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=114137.0 live target archery range].
** Vattic's [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1675-semi-automaticorcsiclemaker Orcsicle maker] freezing water trap.

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* Mechanical Primer - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

User:Khearn

2016-02-03T19:27:55Z

Khearn: /* Useful links */ Added link to Zuglar'slive target archery range

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (November 2011), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.
===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.
* Some forum posts I want to be able to find. Mostly useful designs like traps and such.
** RocheLimit's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=142446.msg5580165#msg5580165 Automated Cavern Trap]. Trapavoid building destroyers take out a floodgate, allowing water to trigger a pressure plate, raising bridges.
** Zuglar's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=114137.0 live target archery range].

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* Mechanical Primer - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

User:Khearn

2016-02-03T19:25:47Z

Khearn: /* Useful links */ Added link to RocheLimit's Automated Cavern Trap

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (November 2011), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.
===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.
* Some forum posts I want to be able to find. Mostly useful designs like traps and such.
** RocheLimit's [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=142446.msg5580165#msg5580165 Automated Cavern Trap]. Trapavoid building destroyers take out a floodgate, allowing water to trigger a pressure plate, raising bridges.

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* Mechanical Primer - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

Yeti

2016-01-11T21:53:55Z

Khearn: New butchering data point

{{Quality|Superior|01:54, 28 April 2013 (UTC)}}

{{Creaturelookup/0
|meat=31-34
|fat=18
|lung=2
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|brain=1
|heart=1
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|intestine=1
|sweetbread=1
|bone=32-33
|skull=1
|skin=hide
|contrib=no
|wiki=yes
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Yetis''' are large, dangerous creatures found only in [[savage]] areas. They are fully capable of massacring dozens of unarmed dwarves due to their large size, and their [[building_destroyer#Dangerous_Fun_Variety|BUILDINGDESTROYER:2]] tag will draw them into contact with fortresses.

When players embark on a [[glacier]], they should expect to encounter yetis. Due to a glacier's general lack of other animal life, the map will almost always spawn one yeti right after another, making them a deadly hazard for an early fortress. However, since they have a relatively low population number, no more than 5-10 yetis will spawn before they become [[extinct]] in your [[biome]].

Yetis cannot be tamed. However, their extremely long lifespan can make them valuable as [[cage|permanent decorations]] for your fortress.

{{D for Dwarf}}

Though many take the yetis to be violent, demented beasts, some have been tamed (with great difficulty) and even integrated into dwarven society. This can be attributed to their joyful and cheery nature; often they can be seen playfully tipping over workshops and 'accidentally' crushing anyone working within. Many dwarves admire this warped sense of humour and the yeti's obvious love of beer, wine and spirits.

When faced with a mighty [[sasquatch]], yetis become immense wimps, despite the Sasquatch being barely any different from them. Dwarven scientists think this is caused by the high contrast between a sasquatch's white skin and brown fur, which makes a simple-minded yeti panic.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Humanoids}}

DF2014 Talk:Grazer

2014-09-25T23:12:54Z

Khearn: Calculated some values for a sample set of animals.

Much of the info on this page is obsolete because the grazing calculations were significantly changed in the 40.13 release. The description of the change was: "Reworked grazing formula, used fractional exponent to scale properly according to size."

In d_init.txt this was added:

Set this number to scale how often grazing animals need to eat. Larger numbers mean less food is necessary. Metabolism is always set according to the 3/4ths power of size.

[GRAZE_COEFFICIENT:100]

Further research is needed to determine what the pasture size needed for a given animal size.

[[User:Khearn|Khearn]] ([[User talk:Khearn|talk]]) 22:02, 24 September 2014 (UTC)

:Toady posted the STANDARD_GRAZER formula in the FotF thread. It is 20000*G*(max size)^(-3/4), where G is the graze coefficient, and max size is the internal body size, so raw body size divided by 10. [[User:Knight Otu|Knight Otu]] ([[User talk:Knight Otu|talk]]) 18:18, 25 September 2014 (UTC)

<HR>
Ok, that's helpful. Assuming G is normalized so that GRAZE_COEFFICIENT:100 means that G is 1.0, here are some sample animals:
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Animal !! max size !! New GRAZER !! Old GRAZER
|-
| Rabbit || 50 || 106,366 || 120,000
|-
| Sheep || 5000 || 3,364 || 1,200
|-
| Donkey || 30000 || 877 || 200
|-
| Water Buffalo || 100000 || 356 || 60
|-
| Elephant || 500000 || 106 || 12
|}

Using the rule of thumb that 20000=Grazer*Required_tiles, then:
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Animal!! New Tiles !! New NxN !! Old Tiles !! Old NxN
|-
| Rabbit || 0.2 || 1x1 || 0.2 || 1x1
|-
| Sheep || 6 || 2x3 || 17 || 4x4
|-
| Donkey || 23 || 5x5 || 100 || 10x10
|-
| Water Buffalo || 56 || 8x8 || 333 || 18x18
|-
| Elephant || 188 || 14x14 || 1667 || 41x41
|}

Those are significantly smaller for the larger animals, and look like they could be reasonable. I'll try reducing my pastures to the sizes based on this formula and see if they do OK. If so, I'll update the page with the new formula and values. Thanks for the info!

[[User:Khearn|Khearn]] ([[User talk:Khearn|talk]]) 23:12, 25 September 2014 (UTC)

DF2014 Talk:Grazer

2014-09-24T22:02:26Z

Khearn: Grazing changes significantly in 40.13

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T21:52:36Z

Khearn: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

User:Khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild

2014-09-18T20:49:39Z

Khearn: /* Building dfhack */ Fixed a typo

== HOWTO build dfhack on linux ==

This is accurate as of August 27, 2014.

This page describes (or attempts to) how to build dfhack from sources on a linux system. I have a Unbuntu 14.04 64-bit system, and this was written while 40.10 was the current DF version. If your linux system is different or you are building for a different DF version, you may find that not everything works exactly as I describe, but hopefully this will at least provide some help.

In addition to this page, take a look at the Compile.html file in the top directory of the dfhack sources. That's what I started with to figure out how to build. But you first have to get to it before you can read it.

=== Getting the sources ===

The sources are on github.com, and you'll need to set up a github account to get them. So go to github.com and there will be something to tell you how to set up an account.

The sources I used are Quietust's "develop" branch. It can be found at https://github.com/quietust/dfhack/tree/develop. The command to get that branch is:

git clone -b develop https://github.com/quietust/dfhack.git

That will copy the main part of the code down to your system, but there are some submodules that need to be downloaded as well.

cd dfhack
git submodule init
git submodule update

=== Installing Libraries & other Packages ===

One complication that I had to deal with is that DF is a 32-bit binary (as of 40.10 at least), so dfhack also has to be 32-bit, but my linux system is 64-bit. This means that most of the shared libraries installed on my system are 64-bit, and won't work for dfhack. SO I had to figure out what packages I needed and install them. Naturally, I didn't make a list as I went along, so this list may be a bit incomplete. Plus, I may have already had some 32-bit libs that I needed already on my system, so I didn't notice that they were needed.

But even if you have a 32-bit system, you still may need to install some packages that you don't already have.

BTW, to tell if you are on 32-bit or 64-bit, run 'uname -p'. If you see something like 'x86_64', your system is 64-bit, if you see something like 'i386' or maybe 'x86_32', then yours is a 32-bit system. I don't know exactly what a 32-bit system will print out, since i don't have one handy to test it on.

==== Installing packages ====

I'll describe how packages get installed on my Unbuntu system. Different linux distributions have different commands, so you may need to figure out how to do it on your system if this doesn't work. Google is your friend.

I prefer to use a GUI-based package manager, the Synaptic Package Manager. But if you don't have synaptic installed, you can install stuff from the command line of you know the exact package name. Using Synaptic allows you to search through package names, which is handy if you know you need gcc, but aren't sure what the package is named.

For installing packages from the command line, the command to use is 'apt-get install <package>'. For instance, to install Synaptic, I'd do 'sudo apt-get install synaptic'. The 'sudo' causes the command to be run as root. You have to be authorized to run sudo on your system, and you'll be prompted for your login password. If you can't run sudo or become root in some way, you can't install packages and you're basically out of luck.

One package may require other packages to be installed first. If this is the case, spt-get will list the packages that will need to be installed and ask you if you want to install them as well. Say yes.

If you already have the package installed, it doesn't hurt to try and install it again. You might even find that you have an old version and end up upgrading.

So here are the packages I can recall needing to install:

* git
* gcc-4.9-base:i386 (You can go with some other version)
* libstdc++6:i386
* zlib1g:i386
* cmake
* cmake-curses-gui (also known as ccmake)
* libxml-xslt-perl
* libxml-perl

If you discover others that I didn't list here, let me know and I'll add them.

=== Building dfhack ===

Now you should have all the sources and are ready to build it.

cd build
cmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:string=Release -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=<path to your DF directory>

Dfhack needs to know where it will install the files, so you have to tell it where you have DF installed.

On my system, cmake consistently found the wrong location for the zlib library and tried to use the 64-bit version. So at this point I have to edit build/CMakeCache.txt and change the line with "ZLIB_LIBRARY:FILEPATH=/usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so" to be "ZLIB_LIBRARY:FILEPATH=/lib/i386-linux-gnu/libz.so.1". You may or may not have to do this. If your build fails because it can't find "-lz", this may be the issue.

Now you're ready to try the build.

make install

This will be the acid test to see if you have all the libraries you need. If you've got everything, it should build and install and you'll find a dfhack executable in your DF directory. If there are errors, it's likely to be because you need some packages.

One problem I ran into while figuring out what packages I needed was that cmake didn't always notice that I'd installed the new stuff. So you may need to re-run the cmake command above. If all else fails, simply blow away your dfhack directory and start over with the 'git clone' command and see if things work better with a fresh start.

User:Khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild

2014-09-16T16:25:59Z

Khearn: /* Building dfhack */ fixed typo

== HOWTO build dfhack on linux ==

This is accurate as of August 27, 2014.

This page describes (or attempts to) how to build dfhack from sources on a linux system. I have a Unbuntu 14.04 64-bit system, and this was written while 40.10 was the current DF version. If your linux system is different or you are building for a different DF version, you may find that not everything works exactly as I describe, but hopefully this will at least provide some help.

In addition to this page, take a look at the Compile.html file in the top directory of the dfhack sources. That's what I started with to figure out how to build. But you first have to get to it before you can read it.

=== Getting the sources ===

The sources are on github.com, and you'll need to set up a github account to get them. So go to github.com and there will be something to tell you how to set up an account.

The sources I used are Quietust's "develop" branch. It can be found at https://github.com/quietust/dfhack/tree/develop. The command to get that branch is:

git clone -b develop https://github.com/quietust/dfhack.git

That will copy the main part of the code down to your system, but there are some submodules that need to be downloaded as well.

cd dfhack
git submodule init
git submodule update

=== Installing Libraries & other Packages ===

One complication that I had to deal with is that DF is a 32-bit binary (as of 40.10 at least), so dfhack also has to be 32-bit, but my linux system is 64-bit. This means that most of the shared libraries installed on my system are 64-bit, and won't work for dfhack. SO I had to figure out what packages I needed and install them. Naturally, I didn't make a list as I went along, so this list may be a bit incomplete. Plus, I may have already had some 32-bit libs that I needed already on my system, so I didn't notice that they were needed.

But even if you have a 32-bit system, you still may need to install some packages that you don't already have.

BTW, to tell if you are on 32-bit or 64-bit, run 'uname -p'. If you see something like 'x86_64', your system is 64-bit, if you see something like 'i386' or maybe 'x86_32', then yours is a 32-bit system. I don't know exactly what a 32-bit system will print out, since i don't have one handy to test it on.

==== Installing packages ====

I'll describe how packages get installed on my Unbuntu system. Different linux distributions have different commands, so you may need to figure out how to do it on your system if this doesn't work. Google is your friend.

I prefer to use a GUI-based package manager, the Synaptic Package Manager. But if you don't have synaptic installed, you can install stuff from the command line of you know the exact package name. Using Synaptic allows you to search through package names, which is handy if you know you need gcc, but aren't sure what the package is named.

For installing packages from the command line, the command to use is 'apt-get install <package>'. For instance, to install Synaptic, I'd do 'sudo apt-get install synaptic'. The 'sudo' causes the command to be run as root. You have to be authorized to run sudo on your system, and you'll be prompted for your login password. If you can't run sudo or become root in some way, you can't install packages and you're basically out of luck.

One package may require other packages to be installed first. If this is the case, spt-get will list the packages that will need to be installed and ask you if you want to install them as well. Say yes.

If you already have the package installed, it doesn't hurt to try and install it again. You might even find that you have an old version and end up upgrading.

So here are the packages I can recall needing to install:

* git
* gcc-4.9-base:i386 (You can go with some other version)
* libstdc++6:i386
* zlib1g:i386
* cmake
* cmake-curses-gui (also known as ccmake)
* libxml-xslt-perl
* libxml-perl

If you discover others that I didn't list here, let me know and I'll add them.

=== Building dfhack ===

Now you should have all the sources and are ready to build it.

cd build
cmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:string=Release -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=<path to your DF directory>

Dfhack needs to know where it will install the files, so you have to tell it where you have DF installed.

On my system, cmake consistently found the wrong location for the zlib library and tried to use the 64-bit version. So at this point I have to edit build/CMakeCache.txt and change the line with "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so" to be "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/lib/i386-linux-gnu/libz.so.1". You may or may not have to do this. If your build fails because it can't find "-lz", this may be the issue.

Now you're ready to try the build.

make install

This will be the acid test to see if you have all the libraries you need. If you've got everything, it should build and install and you'll find a dfhack executable in your DF directory. If there are errors, it's likely to be because you need some packages.

One problem I ran into while figuring out what packages I needed was that cmake didn't always notice that I'd installed the new stuff. So you may need to re-run the cmake command above. If all else fails, simply blow away your dfhack directory and start over with the 'git clone' command and see if things work better with a fresh start.

User:Khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild

2014-08-27T22:36:43Z

Khearn: /* HOWTO build dfhack on linux */ Added the date that this was known to work.

== HOWTO build dfhack on linux ==

This is accurate as of August 27, 2014.

This page describes (or attempts to) how to build dfhack from sources on a linux system. I have a Unbuntu 14.04 64-bit system, and this was written while 40.10 was the current DF version. If your linux system is different or you are building for a different DF version, you may find that not everything works exactly as I describe, but hopefully this will at least provide some help.

In addition to this page, take a look at the Compile.html file in the top directory of the dfhack sources. That's what I started with to figure out how to build. But you first have to get to it before you can read it.

=== Getting the sources ===

The sources are on github.com, and you'll need to set up a github account to get them. So go to github.com and there will be something to tell you how to set up an account.

The sources I used are Quietust's "develop" branch. It can be found at https://github.com/quietust/dfhack/tree/develop. The command to get that branch is:

git clone -b develop https://github.com/quietust/dfhack.git

That will copy the main part of the code down to your system, but there are some submodules that need to be downloaded as well.

cd dfhack
git submodule init
git submodule update

=== Installing Libraries & other Packages ===

One complication that I had to deal with is that DF is a 32-bit binary (as of 40.10 at least), so dfhack also has to be 32-bit, but my linux system is 64-bit. This means that most of the shared libraries installed on my system are 64-bit, and won't work for dfhack. SO I had to figure out what packages I needed and install them. Naturally, I didn't make a list as I went along, so this list may be a bit incomplete. Plus, I may have already had some 32-bit libs that I needed already on my system, so I didn't notice that they were needed.

But even if you have a 32-bit system, you still may need to install some packages that you don't already have.

BTW, to tell if you are on 32-bit or 64-bit, run 'uname -p'. If you see something like 'x86_64', your system is 64-bit, if you see something like 'i386' or maybe 'x86_32', then yours is a 32-bit system. I don't know exactly what a 32-bit system will print out, since i don't have one handy to test it on.

==== Installing packages ====

I'll describe how packages get installed on my Unbuntu system. Different linux distributions have different commands, so you may need to figure out how to do it on your system if this doesn't work. Google is your friend.

I prefer to use a GUI-based package manager, the Synaptic Package Manager. But if you don't have synaptic installed, you can install stuff from the command line of you know the exact package name. Using Synaptic allows you to search through package names, which is handy if you know you need gcc, but aren't sure what the package is named.

For installing packages from the command line, the command to use is 'apt-get install <package>'. For instance, to install Synaptic, I'd do 'sudo apt-get install synaptic'. The 'sudo' causes the command to be run as root. You have to be authorized to run sudo on your system, and you'll be prompted for your login password. If you can't run sudo or become root in some way, you can't install packages and you're basically out of luck.

One package may require other packages to be installed first. If this is the case, spt-get will list the packages that will need to be installed and ask you if you want to install them as well. Say yes.

If you already have the package installed, it doesn't hurt to try and install it again. You might even find that you have an old version and end up upgrading.

So here are the packages I can recall needing to install:

* git
* gcc-4.9-base:i386 (You can go with some other version)
* libstdc++6:i386
* zlib1g:i386
* cmake
* cmake-curses-gui (also known as ccmake)
* libxml-xslt-perl
* libxml-perl

If you discover others that I didn't list here, let me know and I'll add them.

=== Building dfhack ===

Now you should have all the sources and are ready to build it.

cd build
cmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:string=Release -DCMAKE_INSTAL_PREFIX=<path to your DF directory>

Dfhack needs to know where it will install the files, so you have to tell it where you have DF installed.

On my system, cmake consistently found the wrong location for the zlib library and tried to use the 64-bit version. So at this point I have to edit build/CMakeCache.txt and change the line with "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so" to be "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/lib/i386-linux-gnu/libz.so.1". You may or may not have to do this. If your build fails because it can't find "-lz", this may be the issue.

Now you're ready to try the build.

make install

This will be the acid test to see if you have all the libraries you need. If you've got everything, it should build and install and you'll find a dfhack executable in your DF directory. If there are errors, it's likely to be because you need some packages.

One problem I ran into while figuring out what packages I needed was that cmake didn't always notice that I'd installed the new stuff. So you may need to re-run the cmake command above. If all else fails, simply blow away your dfhack directory and start over with the 'git clone' command and see if things work better with a fresh start.

User:Khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild

2014-08-27T22:22:41Z

Khearn: /* HOWTO build dfhack on linux */ re-org and more info.

== HOWTO build dfhack on linux ==

This page describes (or attempts to) how to build dfhack from sources on a linux system. I have a Unbuntu 14.04 64-bit system, and this was written while 40.10 was the current DF version. If your linux system is different or you are building for a different DF version, you may find that not everything works exactly as I describe, but hopefully this will at least provide some help.

In addition to this page, take a look at the Compile.html file in the top directory of the dfhack sources. That's what I started with to figure out how to build. But you first have to get to it before you can read it.

=== Getting the sources ===

The sources are on github.com, and you'll need to set up a github account to get them. So go to github.com and there will be something to tell you how to set up an account.

The sources I used are Quietust's "develop" branch. It can be found at https://github.com/quietust/dfhack/tree/develop. The command to get that branch is:

git clone -b develop https://github.com/quietust/dfhack.git

That will copy the main part of the code down to your system, but there are some submodules that need to be downloaded as well.

cd dfhack
git submodule init
git submodule update

=== Installing Libraries & other Packages ===

One complication that I had to deal with is that DF is a 32-bit binary (as of 40.10 at least), so dfhack also has to be 32-bit, but my linux system is 64-bit. This means that most of the shared libraries installed on my system are 64-bit, and won't work for dfhack. SO I had to figure out what packages I needed and install them. Naturally, I didn't make a list as I went along, so this list may be a bit incomplete. Plus, I may have already had some 32-bit libs that I needed already on my system, so I didn't notice that they were needed.

But even if you have a 32-bit system, you still may need to install some packages that you don't already have.

BTW, to tell if you are on 32-bit or 64-bit, run 'uname -p'. If you see something like 'x86_64', your system is 64-bit, if you see something like 'i386' or maybe 'x86_32', then yours is a 32-bit system. I don't know exactly what a 32-bit system will print out, since i don't have one handy to test it on.

==== Installing packages ====

I'll describe how packages get installed on my Unbuntu system. Different linux distributions have different commands, so you may need to figure out how to do it on your system if this doesn't work. Google is your friend.

I prefer to use a GUI-based package manager, the Synaptic Package Manager. But if you don't have synaptic installed, you can install stuff from the command line of you know the exact package name. Using Synaptic allows you to search through package names, which is handy if you know you need gcc, but aren't sure what the package is named.

For installing packages from the command line, the command to use is 'apt-get install <package>'. For instance, to install Synaptic, I'd do 'sudo apt-get install synaptic'. The 'sudo' causes the command to be run as root. You have to be authorized to run sudo on your system, and you'll be prompted for your login password. If you can't run sudo or become root in some way, you can't install packages and you're basically out of luck.

One package may require other packages to be installed first. If this is the case, spt-get will list the packages that will need to be installed and ask you if you want to install them as well. Say yes.

If you already have the package installed, it doesn't hurt to try and install it again. You might even find that you have an old version and end up upgrading.

So here are the packages I can recall needing to install:

* git
* gcc-4.9-base:i386 (You can go with some other version)
* libstdc++6:i386
* zlib1g:i386
* cmake
* cmake-curses-gui (also known as ccmake)
* libxml-xslt-perl
* libxml-perl

If you discover others that I didn't list here, let me know and I'll add them.

=== Building dfhack ===

Now you should have all the sources and are ready to build it.

cd build
cmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:string=Release -DCMAKE_INSTAL_PREFIX=<path to your DF directory>

Dfhack needs to know where it will install the files, so you have to tell it where you have DF installed.

On my system, cmake consistently found the wrong location for the zlib library and tried to use the 64-bit version. So at this point I have to edit build/CMakeCache.txt and change the line with "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so" to be "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/lib/i386-linux-gnu/libz.so.1". You may or may not have to do this. If your build fails because it can't find "-lz", this may be the issue.

Now you're ready to try the build.

make install

This will be the acid test to see if you have all the libraries you need. If you've got everything, it should build and install and you'll find a dfhack executable in your DF directory. If there are errors, it's likely to be because you need some packages.

One problem I ran into while figuring out what packages I needed was that cmake didn't always notice that I'd installed the new stuff. So you may need to re-run the cmake command above. If all else fails, simply blow away your dfhack directory and start over with the 'git clone' command and see if things work better with a fresh start.

User:Khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild

2014-08-27T22:05:46Z

Khearn: /* Getting the sources */ Fixed incorrect URLs

== HOWTO build dfhack on linux ==

This page describes (or attempts to) how to build dfhack from sources on a linux system. I have a Unbuntu 14.04 64-bit system, and this was written while 40.10 was the current DF version. If your linux system is different or you are building for a different DF version, you may find that not everything works exactly as I describe, but hopefully this will at least provide some help.

=== Installing Libraries & other Packages ===

One complication that I had to deal with is that DF is a 32-bit binary (as of 40.10 at least), so dfhack also has to be 32-bit, but my linux system is 64-bit. This means that most of the shared libraries installed on my system are 64-bit, and won't work for dfhack. SO I had to figure out what packages I needed and install them. Naturally, I didn't make a list as I went along, so this list may be a bit incomplete. Plus, I may have already had some 32-bit libs that I needed already on my system, so I didn't notice that they were needed.

But even if you have a 32-bit system, you still may need to install some packages that you don't already have.

BTW, to tell if you are on 32-bit or 64-bit, run 'uname -p'. If you see something like 'x86_64', your system is 64-bit, if you see something like 'i386' or maybe 'x86_32', then yours is a 32-bit system. I don't know exactly what a 32-bit system will print out, since i don't have one handy to test it on.

==== Installing packages ====

I'll describe how packages get installed on my Unbuntu system. Different linux distributions have different commands, so you may need to figure out how to do it on your system if this doesn't work. Google is your friend.

I prefer to use a GUI-based package manager, the Synaptic Package Manager. But if you don't have synaptic installed, you can install stuff from the command line of you know the exact package name. Using Synaptic allows you to search through package names, which is handy if you know you need gcc, but aren't sure what the package is named.

For installing packages from the command line, the command to use is 'apt-get install <package>'. For instance, to install Synaptic, I'd do 'sudo apt-get install synaptic'. The 'sudo' causes the command to be run as root. You have to be authorized to run sudo on your system, and you'll be prompted for your login password. If you can't run sudo or become root in some way, you can't install packages and you're basically out of luck.

One package may require other packages to be installed first. If this is the case, spt-get will list the packages that will need to be installed and ask you if you want to install them as well. Say yes.

If you already have the package installed, it doesn't hurt to try and install it again. You might even find that you have an old version and end up upgrading.

So here are the packages I can recall needing to install:

* git
* gcc-4.9-base:i386 (You can go with some other version)
* libstdc++6:i386
* zlib1g:i386
* cmake
* cmake-curses-gui (also known as ccmake)
* libxml-xslt-perl
* libxml-perl

If you discover others that I didn't list here, let me know and I'll add them.

=== Getting the sources ===

The sources are on github.com, and you'll need to set up a github account to get them. So go to github.com and there will be something to tell you how to set up an account.

The sources I used are Quietust's "develop" branch. It can be found at https://github.com/quietust/dfhack/tree/develop. The command to get that branch is:

git clone -b develop https://github.com/quietust/dfhack.git

That will copy the main part of the code down to your system, but there are some submodules that need to be downloaded as well.

cd dfhack
git submodule init
git submodule update

=== Building dfhack ===

Now you should have all the sources and are ready to build it.

cd build
cmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:string=Release -DCMAKE_INSTAL_PREFIX=<path to your DF directory>

Dfhack needs to know where it will install the files, so you have to tell it where you have DF installed.

On my system, cmake consistently found the wrong location for the zlib library and tried to use the 64-bit version. So at this point I have to edit build/CMakeCache.txt and change the line with "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so" to be "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/lib/i386-linux-gnu/libz.so.1". You may or may not have to do this. If your build fails because it can't find "-lz", this may be the issue.

Now you're ready to try the build.

make install

This will be the acid test to see if you have all the libraries you need. If you've got everything, it should build and install and you'll find a dfhack executable in your DF directory. If there are errors, it's likely to be because you need some packages.

User:Khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild

2014-08-27T22:00:11Z

Khearn: Initial draft

== HOWTO build dfhack on linux ==

This page describes (or attempts to) how to build dfhack from sources on a linux system. I have a Unbuntu 14.04 64-bit system, and this was written while 40.10 was the current DF version. If your linux system is different or you are building for a different DF version, you may find that not everything works exactly as I describe, but hopefully this will at least provide some help.

=== Installing Libraries & other Packages ===

One complication that I had to deal with is that DF is a 32-bit binary (as of 40.10 at least), so dfhack also has to be 32-bit, but my linux system is 64-bit. This means that most of the shared libraries installed on my system are 64-bit, and won't work for dfhack. SO I had to figure out what packages I needed and install them. Naturally, I didn't make a list as I went along, so this list may be a bit incomplete. Plus, I may have already had some 32-bit libs that I needed already on my system, so I didn't notice that they were needed.

But even if you have a 32-bit system, you still may need to install some packages that you don't already have.

BTW, to tell if you are on 32-bit or 64-bit, run 'uname -p'. If you see something like 'x86_64', your system is 64-bit, if you see something like 'i386' or maybe 'x86_32', then yours is a 32-bit system. I don't know exactly what a 32-bit system will print out, since i don't have one handy to test it on.

==== Installing packages ====

I'll describe how packages get installed on my Unbuntu system. Different linux distributions have different commands, so you may need to figure out how to do it on your system if this doesn't work. Google is your friend.

I prefer to use a GUI-based package manager, the Synaptic Package Manager. But if you don't have synaptic installed, you can install stuff from the command line of you know the exact package name. Using Synaptic allows you to search through package names, which is handy if you know you need gcc, but aren't sure what the package is named.

For installing packages from the command line, the command to use is 'apt-get install <package>'. For instance, to install Synaptic, I'd do 'sudo apt-get install synaptic'. The 'sudo' causes the command to be run as root. You have to be authorized to run sudo on your system, and you'll be prompted for your login password. If you can't run sudo or become root in some way, you can't install packages and you're basically out of luck.

One package may require other packages to be installed first. If this is the case, spt-get will list the packages that will need to be installed and ask you if you want to install them as well. Say yes.

If you already have the package installed, it doesn't hurt to try and install it again. You might even find that you have an old version and end up upgrading.

So here are the packages I can recall needing to install:

* git
* gcc-4.9-base:i386 (You can go with some other version)
* libstdc++6:i386
* zlib1g:i386
* cmake
* cmake-curses-gui (also known as ccmake)
* libxml-xslt-perl
* libxml-perl

If you discover others that I didn't list here, let me know and I'll add them.

=== Getting the sources ===

The sources are on github.com, and you'll need to set up a github account to get them. So go to github.com and there will be something to tell you how to set up an account.

The sources I used are Quietust's "develop" branch. It can be found at https://github.com/DFHack/dfhack/tree/develop. The command to get that branch is:

git clone -b develop https://github.com/DFHack/dfhack.git

That will copy the main part of the code down to your system, but there are some submodules that need to be downloaded as well.

cd dfhack
git submodule init
git submodule update

=== Building dfhack ===

Now you should have all the sources and are ready to build it.

cd build
cmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE:string=Release -DCMAKE_INSTAL_PREFIX=<path to your DF directory>

Dfhack needs to know where it will install the files, so you have to tell it where you have DF installed.

On my system, cmake consistently found the wrong location for the zlib library and tried to use the 64-bit version. So at this point I have to edit build/CMakeCache.txt and change the line with "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so" to be "ZLIB_LIBRAY:FILEPATH=/lib/i386-linux-gnu/libz.so.1". You may or may not have to do this. If your build fails because it can't find "-lz", this may be the issue.

Now you're ready to try the build.

make install

This will be the acid test to see if you have all the libraries you need. If you've got everything, it should build and install and you'll find a dfhack executable in your DF directory. If there are errors, it's likely to be because you need some packages.

User:Khearn

2014-08-27T21:10:56Z

Khearn: /* My own pages */ Added dfhack linux build HOWTO link

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (November 2011), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.
===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/DfhackLinuxBuild Dfhack linux build HOWTO] - A description of how to build dfhack on Linux.
* Mechanical Primer - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

User:Khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow

2014-08-27T17:15:29Z

Khearn: /* Create the burrow */

Learning to set up a civilian burrow is an essential skill.

==== Create the burrow ====
* Hit {{k|w}} to go to the burrow menu and {{k|a}} to add a new burrow.
* Then hit enter to define it.
* Hit {{k|n}} to name it, I'd call it "Inside".
* Then hit {{k|Enter}} to start a rectangle and enter again to finish it, just like designating areas to dig. You can start on one level and end on another and it includes that rectangle on all of the levels, inclusive. Handy. Make as many rectangles as you need. I tend to have the burrow cover entire levels, not just the areas I've dug out, so you don't have to keep expanding it as you dig.
* Then hit {{k|ESC}} a couple of times to get out of the burrow menus.

==== Create the alert ====
* Hit {{k|m}} to bring up the military menus, and {{k|a}} for alerts.
* Now {{k|c}} to add an alert and {{k|N}} to name it. I typically used DEFCON1, but you might like something different.
* Now move the cursor to the far right column, which should have the burrow you just created, and hit {{k|Enter}} to associate that burrow with your new alert. You'll see a green A next to the burrow when you have that alert selected.
* Then hit {{k|ESC}} a couple of times to get out of the military menus.

==== Activate the alert when invaders arrive. ====
* Hit {{k|m}} to bring up the military menus, and {{k|a}} for alerts.
* Now move the cursor back to your new alert and hit {{k|Enter}}, and you should see a green [CIV] move next to it.

==== Congratulations, your civilians are now confined to your burrow. ====
* Watch any civilians who were outside drop what they were doing and come running back inside. Yay.
* When the fight is over, come back and select "Inactive" and hit {{k|Enter}} to cancel the alert and let your civilians back out of the burrow.

That's all there is to it.

*Note they will not go for food, so your safe room may become a death sentence.*

v0.34:Windmill

2014-08-16T23:15:57Z

Khearn: Undo revision 209591 by Khearn (talk)

{{Quality|Fine}}
{{Machine_component|name=Windmill|key=m
|construction=
* 4 [[wood|Log]]s
|construction_job=
# [[Building designer|Architecture]]
# [[Carpentry]]
|power=Generates 40, 20, or 0 power, depending on wind level
}}{{av}}{{buggy}}

:''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[Machine component|machinery]].''

A '''windmill''' is a [[machine component]] that provides [[power]] via wind on the surface of a fortress map. In order for the windmill to generate power, its center tile must have the "outside" [[Tile attributes|attribute]]. The power produced by each windmill depends on the latitude at which your fortress is located within the world. The power generated by a windmill is transmitted downward through its center tile, so you must [[channel]] out the central tile and build the windmill on top of an existing [[axle|vertical axle]] or [[gear assembly]] (or the actual machine you wish to power).

When building a windmill on top of an existing axle or assembly, you might get a "no access" message even if your dwarves can reach the center space of the windmill. You'll need to build a floor so that there's a place to stand adjacent to one of the nine windmill squares (i.e. one space between the standing platform and the windmill axle). Spaces adjacent to the windmill's axle (i.e. within the 3x3 building area) aren't sufficient for construction access.

Due to what is assumed to be a bug, it is sometimes possible for windmills to transmit their power through a solid floor without channeling. They only have this effect if the windmill is built ''first'', and whatever it's powering ''second''; however, this does not always work reliably.

As with other machines, windmills freeze if the floor under them is natural ice.

== Bugs ==
* Wind strength does not vary by latitude for small worlds {{bug|6380}}

{{buildings}}

v0.34:Windmill

2014-08-16T23:15:08Z

Khearn: /* Bugs */ noted that bug is fixed.

Live training

2014-08-06T16:25:44Z

Khearn:

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}{{av}}
'''Live training''' is the process of how to attack [[creatures]] with [[military]] [[dwarves]] (and be attacked by these creatures as well) with minimal or inexistent [[wound]]s in order to train your military's [[skill]]s, if you consider [[danger room]]s as an exploit, or don't want to randomly lose [[children]] or [[pet]]s, and find [[sparring]] and military [[training]] too slow.

There are many ways how to do this. What you must ensure first is your dwarf's safety[citation needed].

== Killing Wildlife ==

Just arm and armor your military and gratuitously hunt wild [[animals]]. Note that some wild animals are more than capable of killing your dabbling [[soldier]]s, so you may want to scale the creature's threat to your dwarves skill and equipment.

*'''Pros''':
**gets you raw [[meat]], [[bone]], [[skin]], and other body parts for your animal products industry
**gets rid of unwanted animals in the biome
**possibly will get you new, more interesting animals on the map to catch
**very easy to set up, no special infrastructure needed
**slaughtering wildlife is fun
**trains all skills
**very easy to set up with [[marksdwarf|marksdwarves]]: just make your dwarves [[hunter]]s
*'''Cons''':
**not the fastest training method
**possibly the most dangerous techniques for dwarves
**can easily bring you too much meat and animal parts
**easily gets repetitive
**If training melee, dwarves spend a long time running after wildlife. [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnHmskwqCCQ Feel free to listen to this while it happens.]
**wildlife supply isn't infinite
**may generate unwanted [[hauling]] jobs
**requires oversight (repetitive kill orders)
**trains offense much more than defense

BONUS : Improve on this design by breeding wild non-[[grazer]]s in some room for your dwarves to slaughter periodically the offspring. It removes the limited wildlife problem, but has still most of the other drawbacks.

== Beating on Enemy Prisoners (aka Away with thee, accursed Geneva Convention!) ==

Quite a bit more efficient than the previous one, this consists of catching intelligent enemies in [[trap]]s, making sure they are unarmed but still [[armor]]ed, then sending them against your armor-clad dwarves equipped with [[training weapon]]s. You can kill them or not : see the bonus.

'''Pros''':
*decent training speed
*beating on goblins is fun
*infinite supply of enemies
*quite safe if executed correctly.
*trains all skills
*killing sentients increases discipline
'''Cons''':
*goblins are trained as well (although this may be a good thing: see bonus) if you don't kill them
*still requires enough oversight to be a bother, most especially if you don't want wounds
*for more [[fun]] don't remove the goblins' weapons
*goblins tend to die easily due to poor armor coverage, you must replace a new batch
*if you use [[training weapon]]s : dwarves may grow attached to them
*generates hauling jobs
*as offensive skills improve and goblin skill stays the same, dwarves tend to kill goblins far too easily, making this method less effective as your dwarves improve.

BONUS : Don't kill goblins. Train them as well, making them increase in skill and try not to kill them. Use different batches of different goblins for differently skilled military dwarves. Make an arena design with dropping bridges and cage traps to stop the fight if it is going badly for your dwarf. While this requires a lot of oversight (possibly too much for your taste) and hauling jobs, this is a generally effective, realistic, complete and relatively quick method of training your military.

== Bronze Colossus Dummy ==

AKA : using a [[bronze colossus]]'s toughness and high experience gains to get good skills easily and safely.

For marksdwarves : catch the colossus, put it in a room, fire on it. You may want to use wooden/bone bolts to not damage it further, or iron bolts if you WANT to damage it further for melee training.
For melee : Remove it's arms and legs via falling and/or bolts, and then drop the colossus on a closed room, and send your melee dwarves on it. Remember, [[steel]] or better weapons will kill it, and that's not what you want.

'''Pros''':
*very good training speed, due to colossus giving a lot of experience
*generally not dangerous
*infinite training
*little oversight needed, since both sides doesn't do much damage
*easy to set up for marksdwarves
'''Cons''':
*endgame only, you don't get a colossus before 80 dwarves
*must actually have a colossus in the world
*dismembering a colossus without killing it isn't easy
*may be dangerous to dwarves with a low dodging skill
*limitation on quality material weapons => dwarf may tend to favor a poor weapon
*trains mostly offense skills, although Dodger as well
*melee may be seen as an exploit

== Undead Battle Arena ==

Using one or several imprisoned [[necromancer]]s to train your dwarves with a controlled stream of [[undead]].

You must first catch one or several necromancers, or use a friendly necromancer, then dump him/them in a small space (if possible 1x1) surrounded by [[window]]s or [[fortification]]s (so he can animate what is around without being murdered by a dwarf), make an animation room. You can replace the necromancer with an animating [[evil]] biome or a [[demonic fortress]], but necromancers raise undead faster and can be moved anywhere you like. As a bonus, add raising [[bridge]]s or [[floodgate]]s to block the necro's view and stop the reanimation on command.

Then drop whatever pile of [[body parts]] you don't need and want your necromancer to animate.

'''Pros''':
**decent skill increases
**only little hauling needed
**use for necromancers
**Does not require low-quality weapons, allowing dwarves to become attached to better weapons then other methods
**requires little oversight
**trains every skill
**controllable training aspects : difficulty level, depending on corpse (from dropping llama [[wool]] to dropping a [[cave dragon]] corpse) and number of corpses animated
*'''Cons''':
**can be dangerous, actually danger is proportional to your oversight and difficulty level
**requires more stonework than most other methods
**requires to actually cage trap a necromancer
**time between two reanimations is wasted time => more necromancers is better

== Giant Cave Spider Armor Training Program ==

Using a [[giant cave spider]]'s inability to bypass the armor of a webbed dwarf to train [[armor user]].

First you must prepare the terrain to separate wild GCS and dwarf when the dwarf gets hungry/thirsty/drowsy/sufficient armor user skill.

Set the training on a non-lethal pit trap consisting of a 2x2 or 3x3 retracting bridge, or a series of grates, all linked to a lever and on top of a 1z-deep pit. Fill the ground under the bridge with cage traps.

Set a military dwarf fully armored in metal, without any weapons against a wild giant cave spider. Wild GCS webs the still-conscious dwarf, wild GCS attempts a bite to the head but fails to penetrate metal armor. Dwarf gains armor user skill. Repeat a hundred times. You may want to find a way of harvesting silk for your [[loom]]s as well.

When you want to stop the training, pull the lever. Bridge or grates go down, dwarf and spider fall 1 z-level and get stunned, one or both get caged and separated.

You can also try a dwarf without full armor and only a metal helm, but in that case I no longer guarantee the safety of your dwarf.

*'''Pros''':
**can double as a GCS [[silk farm]]
**very good training rates
**Useful skill which normally increases slowly in combat
**No danger at all for both dwarf and GCS, provided you armored your dwarf well
**Requires only oversight each month
*'''Cons''':
**slightly exploity
**trains only one skill
**needs quite a bit of work to set up if you want to save the GCS and reuse it
**can't train several dwarves at once unless you have several wild GCS and several training facilities

== Provoking elven sieges for fun and profit ==

No one likes the elves. No one. Well, except when they bring exotic animals and the occasional [[sun berry]].

So why not train your military on live elves? Obviously not with on caravans that come each year, but on their [[siege]]s!

You must first mod your game to allow the elven [[diplomat]] to come, or start in a world where you are at war with the elves. When he comes, [[military|greet]] [[attack|him]] [[trap|properly]]. Then, [[siege|training]] [[elf|partners]] will come around eventually.

*'''Pros:'''
**killing elves is great fun
**elves pose little threat to a serious military... as long as your dwarves have shields
**more [[rope reed]] [[clothing]] than your fortress needs, although you may deem it not dwarven enough to wear
**can be made more manageable by cage [[trap]]ping all elf warriors and releasing them into your barracks

*'''Cons:'''
**no more elven caravan
**may generate large amounts of unwanted items (although all the wooden and cloth stuff can be used as trade "goods")
**may be too [[fun]] to handle for your civilians and untrained military, [[bow]]s being still overpowered
**may be a danger to other caravans

== Zerg Rush Defensive Program ==

So is one of your warriors hopelessly lacking in defensive skills ? Fear not ! With this, you will near-exclusively train defensive skills, and quickly !

The goal is to put one of your dwarves in a fighting situation when seriously outnumbered (between 5 or 10 for one dwarf should be good). The more aggressive and the less dangerous these enemies are, the better the training. You can technically do it with goblins, but it's pretty dangerous. Small [[undead]] may be best.

The dwarf will spend it's time defending and therefore will not attack, exclusively training Fighter and the defensive skills. You also want to design a solid enough separation device for when the dwarf becomes tired/hungry/drowsy.

It goes without saying that you must heavily armor your dwarf beforehand.

*'''Pros'''
**defensive skills are often low, and very useful
**good training rate
**good synergy with more offensive training methods
**not too much oversight
*'''Cons'''
**requires quite a lot of preparation beforehand, as well as lots of armor
**only trains defensive skills and Fighter
**may be dangerous, depending on what you use

{{Category|Military}}

v0.34:Giant axolotl

2012-06-07T03:28:03Z

Khearn: Added butchering returns

{{Quality|Tattered}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|meat=13
|brain=1
|lung=2
|heart=1
|liver=1
|intestine=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|fat=12
|bone=18
|skin=hide
|skull=1
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

v0.34:Giant wolverine

2012-05-28T17:28:21Z

Khearn: Added butchering returns from one I just killed

{{Quality|Tattered}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|eye=2
|lung=2
|heart=1
|intestine=1
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|brain=1
|skull=1
|nail=1
|hair=1
|fat=16
|skin=hide
|meat=17
|tooth=2
|bone=22
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

v0.34:Peregrine falcon

2012-04-22T23:51:41Z

Khearn:

{{Quality|Tattered}}
{{creaturelookup/0}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}
Males of the species are known as "tiercel peregrines".

{{gamedata}}
{{creatures}}

User:Khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow

2012-04-18T21:52:58Z

Khearn:

Learning to set up a civilian burrow is an essential skill.

==== Create the burrow ====
* Hit 'w' to go to the burrow menu and 'a' to add a new burrow.
* Then hit enter to define it.
* Hit 'n' to name it, I'd call it "Inside".
* Then hit enter to start a rectangle and enter again to finish it, just like designating areas to dig. Except that you can start on one level and end on another and it includes that rectangle on all of the levels, inclusive. Handy. Make as many rectangles as you need. Note that the burrow symbol will only show in areas that you've dug out, but the burrow will actually extend into the unrevealed rocks, so you can still dig in those areas.
* Then hit ESC a couple of times to get out of the burrow menus.
==== Create the alert ====
* Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts.
* Now 'c' to add an alert and 'N' to name it. I typically used DEFCON1, but you might like something different.
* Now move the cursor to the far right column, which should have the burrow you just created, and hit enter to associate that burrow with your new alert. You'll see a green A next to the burrow when you have that alert selected.
* Then hit ESC a couple of times to get out of the military menus.

==== Activate the alert when invaders arrive. ====
* Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts.
* Now move the cursor back to your new alert and hit enter, and you should see a green [CIV] move next to it.
==== Congratulations, your civilians are now confined to your burrow. ====
* Watch any civilians who were outside drop what they were doing and come running back inside. yay.
* When the fight is over, come back and select "Inactive" and hit enter to cancel the alert and let your civilians back out of the burrow.

That's all there is to it.

User:Khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow

2012-04-18T21:52:32Z

Khearn: /* Create the alert */

Learning to set up a civilian burrow is an essential skill.

==== Create the burrow ====
* Hit 'w' to go to the burrow menu and 'a' to add a new burrow.
* Then hit enter to define it.
** Hit 'n' to name it, I'd call it "Inside".
** Then hit enter to start a rectangle and enter again to finish it, just like designating areas to dig. Except that you can start on one level and end on another and it includes that rectangle on all of the levels, inclusive. Handy. Make as many rectangles as you need. Note that the burrow symbol will only show in areas that you've dug out, but the burrow will actually extend into the unrevealed rocks, so you can still dig in those areas.
** Then hit ESC a couple of times to get out of the burrow menus.
==== Create the alert ====
* Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts.
** Now 'c' to add an alert and 'N' to name it. I typically used DEFCON1, but you might like something different.
** Now move the cursor to the far right column, which should have the burrow you just created, and hit enter to associate that burrow with your new alert. You'll see a green A next to the burrow when you have that alert selected.
** Then hit ESC a couple of times to get out of the military menus.

==== Activate the alert when invaders arrive. ====
* Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts.
* Now move the cursor back to your new alert and hit enter, and you should see a green [CIV] move next to it.
==== Congratulations, your civilians are now confined to your burrow. ====
* Watch any civilians who were outside drop what they were doing and come running back inside. yay.
* When the fight is over, come back and select "Inactive" and hit enter to cancel the alert and let your civilians back out of the burrow.

That's all there is to it.

User:Khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow

2012-04-18T21:52:07Z

Khearn:

Learning to set up a civilian burrow is an essential skill.

==== Create the burrow ====
* Hit 'w' to go to the burrow menu and 'a' to add a new burrow.
* Then hit enter to define it.
** Hit 'n' to name it, I'd call it "Inside".
** Then hit enter to start a rectangle and enter again to finish it, just like designating areas to dig. Except that you can start on one level and end on another and it includes that rectangle on all of the levels, inclusive. Handy. Make as many rectangles as you need. Note that the burrow symbol will only show in areas that you've dug out, but the burrow will actually extend into the unrevealed rocks, so you can still dig in those areas.
** Then hit ESC a couple of times to get out of the burrow menus.
==== Create the alert ====
* Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts.
** Now 'c' to add an alert and 'N' to name it. I typically used DEFCON1, but you might like something different.
** Now move the cursor to the far right column, which should have the burrow you just created, and hit enter to associate that burrow with your new alert. You'll see a green A next to the burrow when you have that alert selected.
** Then hit ESC a coupel of times to get out of the military menus.
==== Activate the alert when invaders arrive. ====
* Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts.
* Now move the cursor back to your new alert and hit enter, and you should see a green [CIV] move next to it.
==== Congratulations, your civilians are now confined to your burrow. ====
* Watch any civilians who were outside drop what they were doing and come running back inside. yay.
* When the fight is over, come back and select "Inactive" and hit enter to cancel the alert and let your civilians back out of the burrow.

That's all there is to it.

User:Khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow

2012-04-18T21:44:20Z

Khearn: Created page with "Learning to set up a civilian burrow is an essential skill. # Hit 'w' to go to the burrow menu and 'a' to add a new burrow. Then hit enter to define it. Hit 'n' to name it, I'd ..."

Learning to set up a civilian burrow is an essential skill.

# Hit 'w' to go to the burrow menu and 'a' to add a new burrow. Then hit enter to define it. Hit 'n' to name it, I'd call it "Inside". Then hit enter to start a rectangle and enter again to finish it, just like designating areas to dig. Except that you can start on one level and end on another and it includes that rectangle on all of the levels, inclusive. Handy. Make as many rectangles as you need. Note that the burrow symbol will only show in areas that you've dug out, but teh burrow will actually extend into the unrevealed rocks, so you can still dig in those areas. Then hit ESC a couple of times to get out of the burrow menus.
# Hit 'm' to bring up the military menus, and 'a' for alerts. Now 'c' to add an alert and 'N' to name it. I typically used DEFCON1, but you might like something different. Now move the cursor to the far right column, which should have the burrow you just created, and hit enter to associate that burrow with your new alert. You'll see a green A next to the burrow when you have that alert selected. Now move the cursor back to your new alert and hit enter, and you should see a green [CIV] move next to it. Congratulations, your civilians are now confined to your burrow.
# Watch any civilians who were outside drop what they were doing and come running back inside. yay.
# When the fight is over, come back and select "Inactive" and hit enter to cancel the alert and let your civilians back out of the burrow.

That's all there is to it.

User:Khearn

2012-04-18T21:42:15Z

Khearn:

==khearn AKA Keith Hearn==
===Who is this guy?===
I'm a software engineer and I make my living working for Google in Mountain View, California. As of this writing (November 2011), I spend most of my "play" time on Dwarf Fortress.
===Useful links===
* How to add [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=67861.msg1632857#msg1632857 human trade representatives]. I haven't tried this, but I'm putting it here because I want to give it a shot when I gen my next world. It's by Quietust, so it's probably reliable.
* The [[Character Table]] page is helpful when you want to use special characters like ‼, ☼, ≡ or any others used in game.
* Some useful logic links:
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:LordOOTFD LordOOTFD] Basic logic stuff
** [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Hussell/ClockToggle Hussell's Toggle] Looks like a good toggle.

===My own pages===
I haven't written these yet, but I plan on writing a few topics listed below. We'll see if I ever actually get to them. :)
* Mechanical Primer - A basic HOWTO for building things like doors, floodgates and bridges and linking them together with mechanisms to make complex constructions.
* Minor Challenges - A list of suggestions for making the game tougher without changing its entire character.
* [http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:khearn/CivilianAlertBurrow Civilian Alert Burrow] - How to set up a "Inside" burrow and use it with a civilian alert. I keep having to explain this in the forums, so I'll make a page to point people to.

That's it for now. Not much to see here yet. Gotta start somewhere, though.

v0.34:Giant wombat

2012-04-05T05:20:48Z

Khearn: Added butchering returns from one I just killed

{{Quality|Tattered}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|lung=2
|heart=1
|intestine=1
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|brain=1
|skull=1
|hair=1
|skin=hide
|meat=15
|tooth=4
|bone=18
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

User:Khearn

2012-04-04T20:16:38Z

Khearn: /* Useful links */

User:Khearn

2012-04-04T19:09:51Z

Khearn:

User:Khearn

2012-04-04T19:09:11Z

Khearn:

v0.34:Site

2012-02-24T00:28:17Z

Khearn: /* Site Types */ Changed Tombs to Tomb so it finds the Tomb page

{{quality|Fine|18:17, 16 March 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

'''Sites''' are inhabited locations found on regions tile adjacent to at least one non-mountain land [[biome]]. These include settlements of any civilization, and caves habitable by named creatures. The type of site will be represented on maps in any mode with a tile that replaces the region tile. In adventure mode, the site becomes the default arrival location for travel to that region tile. Sites acquire a history that can be viewed in Legends mode.

===Site Types===
*[[Cave]] {{Raw Tile|•|0:0:1}}
*[[fortress|Mountain Halls]] {{Raw Tile|Ω|0:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|Ω|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|Ω|7:0:1}}
*Dark Fortress {{Raw Tile|Π|0:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|Π|5:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|Π|5:0:1}}
*Forest Retreat {{Raw Tile|î|6:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|¶|6:0:1}}
*Fortress {{Raw Tile|○|7:0:1}}
*Town {{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|*|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|#|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|☼|7:0:0}}
*Hamlet
*Camp {{Raw Tile|☼|6:0:1}}
*[[night creature|Lair]] {{Raw Tile|•|0:0:1}}
*[[minotaur|Labyrinth]] {{Raw Tile|#|0:7:1}}
*Shrine {{Raw Tile|Å|7:0:0}}
*[[Ruins]] {{Raw Tile|μ|6:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|μ|7:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|μ|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|μ|0:0:1}}
*[[Tomb]] {{Raw Tile|0|0:0:1}}

== Dwarf Fortresses ==

During the embark phase of Fortress Mode, sites can be seen in region and local views. Some site types can be included in the embark region namely caves or previous player fortresses (Reclaim). Embarking on settlements is disabled. On embarking, the fortress becomes a site of the size and location chosen.

Abandoned fortresses are displayed on the map as Ruins.

== Absent Sites ==

In the current version, non-human civilizations only exist in an abstract way, affecting world-gen and some post-world-gen functions but without sites physically existing in the world. Because of this, (non-player) Dwarf Fortresses, Elven Retreats and Dark Fortresses can't be visited in Adventure Mode, even though they'll still show up on maps.

Toady has commented that they'll most likely stay absent until he continues the Army Arc.

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.34:Site

2012-02-24T00:26:54Z

Khearn: /* Site Types */ Added '0' for tombs

{{quality|Fine|18:17, 16 March 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

'''Sites''' are inhabited locations found on regions tile adjacent to at least one non-mountain land [[biome]]. These include settlements of any civilization, and caves habitable by named creatures. The type of site will be represented on maps in any mode with a tile that replaces the region tile. In adventure mode, the site becomes the default arrival location for travel to that region tile. Sites acquire a history that can be viewed in Legends mode.

===Site Types===
*[[Cave]] {{Raw Tile|•|0:0:1}}
*[[fortress|Mountain Halls]] {{Raw Tile|Ω|0:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|Ω|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|Ω|7:0:1}}
*Dark Fortress {{Raw Tile|Π|0:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|Π|5:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|Π|5:0:1}}
*Forest Retreat {{Raw Tile|î|6:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|¶|6:0:1}}
*Fortress {{Raw Tile|○|7:0:1}}
*Town {{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|*|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|#|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|☼|7:0:0}}
*Hamlet
*Camp {{Raw Tile|☼|6:0:1}}
*[[night creature|Lair]] {{Raw Tile|•|0:0:1}}
*[[minotaur|Labyrinth]] {{Raw Tile|#|0:7:1}}
*Shrine {{Raw Tile|Å|7:0:0}}
*[[Ruins]] {{Raw Tile|μ|6:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|μ|7:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|μ|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|μ|0:0:1}}
*[[Tombs]] {{Raw Tile|0|0:0:1}}

== Dwarf Fortresses ==

During the embark phase of Fortress Mode, sites can be seen in region and local views. Some site types can be included in the embark region namely caves or previous player fortresses (Reclaim). Embarking on settlements is disabled. On embarking, the fortress becomes a site of the size and location chosen.

Abandoned fortresses are displayed on the map as Ruins.

== Absent Sites ==

In the current version, non-human civilizations only exist in an abstract way, affecting world-gen and some post-world-gen functions but without sites physically existing in the world. Because of this, (non-player) Dwarf Fortresses, Elven Retreats and Dark Fortresses can't be visited in Adventure Mode, even though they'll still show up on maps.

Toady has commented that they'll most likely stay absent until he continues the Army Arc.

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.34:Waterfall

2012-02-24T00:09:26Z

Khearn: /* Drawbacks of waterfalls */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

A '''waterfall''' is any point on a [[river]] where water descends z-levels. Waterfalls may be natural or engineered.

==Benefits of waterfalls==
* Waterfalls generate [[mist]], which gives dwarves happy [[thought]]s.
** Consider building a path under your waterfall with [[grate|floor grates]] directly under your waterfall and building a [[activity zone|meeting area]] or [[dining hall]] behind the waterfall. This will result in a nice, constant shower of positive emotions for your dwarves as they waddle through the glorious mist like happy elves. This also provides a nice constant shower to rinse your dwarves clean of [[blood]], [[vomit]], and [[mud]], which may [[syndrome|save the fortress from a plague someday]].

==Drawbacks of waterfalls==
* Waterfalls will hamper your [[framerate]].

* Waterfalls also have [[fun|interesting]] [[flood|effects]] on [[water pressure]].
** Depending on what you are [[trap design|trying to do]], this may actually count as a benefit.

* As of version 34.02, dwarves will attempt to walk across the top of the waterfall because the water is shallow enough that they think it is safe. But they don't take into account the flow, and will get swept off the waterfall and either die when they hit the bottom, or drown in the deep water there. Hunters are particularly susceptible because they will see an animal on the far side of the river and try to find a path to it. The workaround until this is fixed is to turn off the hunting labor when you embark, and then quickly build a bridge (wood floors) over the river. Then designate the river near the falls as a restricted traffic area, so your dwarves will prefer taking the bridge. Then you can turn hunting back on and let your hunter have his fun.

=Locating a natural waterfall=
While the site finder does not include waterfalls, the [[embark]] screen can still be used with fair accuracy to locate waterfalls for your fortress. Press {{k|Tab}} until you reach the relative height and cliff indicator screens, and follow rivers. Waterfalls are often located where two rivers intersect and the smaller river empties into the larger one. Some particularly tangled segments of rivers can result in maps with two or more waterfalls. Here, an example of a stream flowing into a minor river is shown.

<center>[[File:WaterfallLocation_2.png]]</center>

In most [[region]]s the relative height of rivers will be the same. This is generally the darkest color, to indicate the lowest point. However, there are places where the relative heights along rivers will change. This is a good hint as to the presence of a waterfall. Generally, the greater the difference in color, the more impressive the waterfall will be. This is of course only a relative measure: the same difference in color implies wildly greater levels of scenic grandeur in [[mountain]]s than it does in flatlands. The largest waterfalls are found where streams drop into major rivers near the mountains.

<center>[[File:Waterfall_3.png]]</center>

The [[cliff]] indicator tool can be used to further confirm the presence of waterfalls, and to fine tune your embark area. In this example, the embark area straddles the tiles labeled as having cliffs with a height of four. The "flat" tiles labeled as dark blue zeroes are the southern extension of the stream: for the purposes of the [[site finder]], all segments of the stream are on the same height, including the cliff at the end. The exact location of the waterfall will be in the zero sandwiched between the fours. You can use this knowledge to fine-tune your embark area to your favorite size. In this case, a 3x3 map could be centered on the bottom zero tile, and a fortress built around the majestic centerpiece.

<center>[[File:WaterfallLocation_1.png]]</center>

Here is the end result of the example waterfall search: seven dwarves milling around in the dirt, and the stream Bristleditches the Messianic Vomit falling five z-levels as it spills into the minor river Skeweredseer, a teeming source of [[alligator]]s, [[longnose gar]], and [[carp]].

<center>[[File:WaterfallLocation_4.png]]</center>

=Building an artificial waterfall=
By creating a stream of falling water with screw pumps or making use of a river or brook on a high z-level, you can engineer a waterfall to take advantage of the happiness it causes. Such waterfalls can become highly complex indeed.

Artificial waterfalls make excellent happiness generators, and are best placed in populated or well-[[traffic|trafficked]] areas like [[dining room]]s or main hallways.

If your map has a [[cavern]] that you feel confident building in, consider building a sewage system that runs into the cavern and off the edge of the map. This way you can simply build a channel from a river to a specific area within your fortress and then have the water pour into the drain. If you are feeling creative, create running water outlets across your fortress, all which run into your sewer system.

== Design example==

[[File:Simple_waterfall.jpg|thumb|right|A simple artificial waterfall, water position before starting pump]]

Three [[z-level]]s are necessary to do this. On the bottom is the [[reservoir]] of water. The middle layer is the [[screw pump]] and the "[[meeting hall]]" where dwarves will gather to enjoy the mist. On top is a narrow corridor that connects the pump chamber to the hole through the ceiling of the meeting hall. Under this hole is a [[grate]] that connects to the reservoir and prevents dwarves from falling in and drowning.

The pump pulls water out the reservoir and pushes it up above the meeting hall. The water falls down through the grate, back into the reservoir.

A more complicated Dwarven waterfall can be seen [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-193-artificalwaterfall here] at DFMA in movie form. A mistake to note: Water is hitting the side of the bridges, which splashes the water around and can knock dwarves in.

{{World}}
[[Category:World]]

User:Khearn

2011-11-09T19:24:35Z

Khearn: /* My own pages */

User:Khearn

2011-11-08T23:01:43Z

Khearn: /* First draft. Not much to see here yet. */

v0.31 Talk:Grate

2011-11-04T17:12:46Z

Khearn: /* Do closing wall grates atom-smash? */ fixed a typo

==Forgotten Beast Herding==
Word on the street is that since Forgotten Beasts destroy grates instead of stepping on them, putting floor grates over pits will prevent non-flying forgotten beasts from crossing that pit. Can anyone confirm this? --[[User:Mzbundifund|Mzbundifund]] 10:13, 30 June 2010

:It worked that way with megabeasts in 40d, so seems reasonable to expect it would work for Forgotten Beasts in 31. (I had pits of grates for liquid-based traps, covered by bridges a z-level up. If the bridges were deployed, the megabeasts would happily walk across them and into the fort, but if the bridges were retracted (revealing the grates below) the megabeasts would destroy every single grate in range, sealing themselves out of the fortress) [[Special:Contributions/69.143.203.131|69.143.203.131]] 05:54, 1 July 2010 (UTC)

==Falling Walls==
Just discovered something, I think. Perhaps someone else can confirm.
While a grate does not support any constructions next to it, you are still allowed to build those walls and floors as though the grate would hold them up. The moment they are completed, they plummet away.
In my case, I built a wall next to a grate, expecting the grate to hold it up. Instead, the wall was completed, then immediately fell into the river it was built over. It then punctured a hole in the bottom of the river and into my fortress's basement :(. The situation was treated as a cave-in.
If anyone can reproduce this, then this could be a way to create easy, controlled cave-ins.
[[Special:Contributions/68.50.165.234|68.50.165.234]] 00:49, 10 October 2010 (UTC)
: I can confirm this works, although the person building seems to have a tendency to fall with it. Also, sign your comments with four tilde(~) next time. [[User:Calite|Calite]] 20:56, 8 October 2010 (UTC)

==Creatures Pushed Through Grates By Water==
I just had a dwarf pushed through a row of wall grates by flowing water. Has anyone else experienced this? --[[Special:Contributions/92.244.188.119|92.244.188.119]] 16:54, 19 June 2011 (UTC)
:Sounds like similar bug with fortification having flow 'push' things through it. I don't have experience with grates, but I have seen fortification act like that. [[User:AutomataKittay|AutomataKittay]] 18:18, 19 June 2011 (UTC)

:Yeah my chief medical dorf just got all fancy and ended up on the other side of a grate--I could kill him (really), but I need him, so I had to turn off the water. Hopefully he'll come back though, or I'll have to remove the grate. If dorfs go through grates, they don't seem particularly useful, but they are good (so far) at keeping rocks out from under floodgates, which then jam open the floodgates, usually for horrible effect. I also had another dwarf end up in my reservoir, which means he must have gone through a grate (idiot), and now I have to empty the reservoir to get his body (which I can't do until I get the chief medical dorf out of harm's way). Oh, those silly dwarfs... --[[User:Dwarvenjames|Dwarvenjames]] 23:56, 30 June 2011 (UTC)
:I had to remove the grate for the CMD to come back (he wasn't pathing through it), so, they can be pushed through grates, but they can't walk through them. Weird.--[[User:Dwarvenjames|Dwarvenjames]] 17:14, 2 July 2011 (UTC)

==Doesn't stop light, but is inside?==
Is this statement correct, as it seems contradictory? Did they mean to say "They will stop light":
"Tiles below a floor grate do count as inside. They will not stop light."[[Special:Contributions/69.254.161.57|69.254.161.57]] 23:27, 18 August 2011 (UTC)

==Do closing wall grates atom-smash?==
Does a wall grate that is closed by a mechanism act like a bridge and destroy anything in its way? Or does it act like a door and get blocked? [[User:Khearn|Khearn]] 17:11, 4 November 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Grate

2011-11-04T17:11:55Z

Khearn:

==Forgotten Beast Herding==
Word on the street is that since Forgotten Beasts destroy grates instead of stepping on them, putting floor grates over pits will prevent non-flying forgotten beasts from crossing that pit. Can anyone confirm this? --[[User:Mzbundifund|Mzbundifund]] 10:13, 30 June 2010

:It worked that way with megabeasts in 40d, so seems reasonable to expect it would work for Forgotten Beasts in 31. (I had pits of grates for liquid-based traps, covered by bridges a z-level up. If the bridges were deployed, the megabeasts would happily walk across them and into the fort, but if the bridges were retracted (revealing the grates below) the megabeasts would destroy every single grate in range, sealing themselves out of the fortress) [[Special:Contributions/69.143.203.131|69.143.203.131]] 05:54, 1 July 2010 (UTC)

==Falling Walls==
Just discovered something, I think. Perhaps someone else can confirm.
While a grate does not support any constructions next to it, you are still allowed to build those walls and floors as though the grate would hold them up. The moment they are completed, they plummet away.
In my case, I built a wall next to a grate, expecting the grate to hold it up. Instead, the wall was completed, then immediately fell into the river it was built over. It then punctured a hole in the bottom of the river and into my fortress's basement :(. The situation was treated as a cave-in.
If anyone can reproduce this, then this could be a way to create easy, controlled cave-ins.
[[Special:Contributions/68.50.165.234|68.50.165.234]] 00:49, 10 October 2010 (UTC)
: I can confirm this works, although the person building seems to have a tendency to fall with it. Also, sign your comments with four tilde(~) next time. [[User:Calite|Calite]] 20:56, 8 October 2010 (UTC)

==Creatures Pushed Through Grates By Water==
I just had a dwarf pushed through a row of wall grates by flowing water. Has anyone else experienced this? --[[Special:Contributions/92.244.188.119|92.244.188.119]] 16:54, 19 June 2011 (UTC)
:Sounds like similar bug with fortification having flow 'push' things through it. I don't have experience with grates, but I have seen fortification act like that. [[User:AutomataKittay|AutomataKittay]] 18:18, 19 June 2011 (UTC)

:Yeah my chief medical dorf just got all fancy and ended up on the other side of a grate--I could kill him (really), but I need him, so I had to turn off the water. Hopefully he'll come back though, or I'll have to remove the grate. If dorfs go through grates, they don't seem particularly useful, but they are good (so far) at keeping rocks out from under floodgates, which then jam open the floodgates, usually for horrible effect. I also had another dwarf end up in my reservoir, which means he must have gone through a grate (idiot), and now I have to empty the reservoir to get his body (which I can't do until I get the chief medical dorf out of harm's way). Oh, those silly dwarfs... --[[User:Dwarvenjames|Dwarvenjames]] 23:56, 30 June 2011 (UTC)
:I had to remove the grate for the CMD to come back (he wasn't pathing through it), so, they can be pushed through grates, but they can't walk through them. Weird.--[[User:Dwarvenjames|Dwarvenjames]] 17:14, 2 July 2011 (UTC)

==Doesn't stop light, but is inside?==
Is this statement correct, as it seems contradictory? Did they mean to say "They will stop light":
"Tiles below a floor grate do count as inside. They will not stop light."[[Special:Contributions/69.254.161.57|69.254.161.57]] 23:27, 18 August 2011 (UTC)

==Do wall closing wall grates atom-smash?==
Does a wall grate that is closed by a mechanism act like a bridge and destroy anything in its way? Or does it act like a door and get blocked? [[User:Khearn|Khearn]] 17:11, 4 November 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Embark

2011-11-04T00:43:24Z

Khearn: /* One fuel, not two */

==Discussion==

Never embark without elves or goblins. Elves bring superawesome animals ( I made a giant forest spider which is like the giant cave spider just in a forest and the elves brought me three of them in the second year) and various plants like whip vine and sunberries. And goblins, well, they make Fun.--[[User:Niggy|Niggy]] 19:37, 9 June 2010 (UTC)
: I'll second that. You gotta have hostiles, unless you want a peaceful farming town or a megaproject on an island. --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 22:39, 3 August 2010 (UTC)

I've had an Idea that I want to add to the embark strategies, and I'm wondering if I should add it.

Cheap Eggs and meat

Embark with a large number of female birds and a single nest box, or the materials to build one). Then allow each bird to lay their eggs and which will then be claimed by dwarves. After all the eggs have been harvested you can then butcher all of the hens for additional meat, and bones. Note: You will have to cook the eggs for them to be edible, but this is still an easy way to get quick food.
-[[User:blorx1|blorx1]]
9 July 2011

== Layers on Embark Screen ==
Looks like you can no longer see the specific layers of soil and stone on embark. In .31.19 you just get a general description of what sort of geology is at the site. "Clay," "soil," "flux stone," and "metals" along with some description of how deep and how abundant they are is what I've seen. [[User:Octorok|Octorok]] 22:08, 17 February 2011 (UTC)

==Less soil doesn't mean more stone and minerals.==
Whoever added this is wrong. The number of z-levels before you reach the magma sea is highly variable. You could have three soil layers and still have 100 z-levels before you hit bottom. Or you could have no soil and only 40 z-levels. The amount and type of minerals available is much more a function of the types of layers, not the number. For instance, a million layers of basalt won't get you any iron, but a few layers of limestone will get you a ton. I'm removing this, sorry whoever added it. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]]

:That was me, and I meant the variety of different stone layers, not the total number of z-levels they span. Does it so there can be a greater variety of layers than shown? [[User:Khym Chanur|Khym Chanur]] 00:45, 19 November 2010 (UTC)
:: Absolutely. The embark screen only shows the first eight layers. There can be more below.– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]]

==Play Now, Fisherdwarf==
I just did a "Play Now!", and my Fisherdwarf does NOT have any social skills (just Novice Fisherdwarf), but he was still assigned as the Expedition Leader and I can assign labors just fine. Also, it's highly likely that the listed Dabbling skills were learned immediately '''after''' embarking, while said dwarf was talking to the others. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 17:36, 9 April 2010 (UTC)

:Yeah, that part about the Dabbling skills is true, since as soon as you embark, your dwarves are doing nothing, which means they start to chat about (presumably) the weather, and their favorite kind of rock. Since you need 1 experience for Dabbling in a skill, they immediately get social skills. --[[User:Drakon136|Drakon136]] 03:34, 27 July 2011 (UTC)

==Play Now, worldgen titles?==
It's suggested that the initial 7 dwarves can come from worldgen. Some actual proof of this claim (e.g. savegame) would be nice. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 17:40, 9 April 2010 (UTC)

==Verification==
* could not replicate the "double fish crash" – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:LemonFrosted|LemonFrosted]]

"Fish are double-listed in the embark items screen. If you choose both fish the game will crash.Verify"

:This is false; I've embarked with two separate barrels of cave lobsters twice now. I'm deleting this from the article. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 18:07, 9 April 2010 (UTC)

::Ya that's BS.--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 18:22, 9 April 2010 (UTC)

::Hmm, I added that because it was on the "Known bugs" page. I'll go remove it from that then, as it seems this is false.– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Garanis|Garanis]]

== No trade ==

Some of the civilizations in my embark screen have a "no trade" tag. What does it mean? --[[Special:Contributions/151.49.233.194|151.49.233.194]] 13:50, 15 May 2010 (UTC)

* they won't send any caravan --[[Special:Contributions/94.217.127.76|94.217.127.76]] 14:01, 25 May 2010 (UTC)

==make up your mind..==
* "'''Don't Really Need That''' - unless you have tailored your embark for metal production quick and early, '''''an anvil is unnecessary''''' and the 100 points you get from refunding it can be better spent on skills or additional foodstuffs"
* "'''Yes, I Do Need That''' - '''''never leave without an anvil''''', since nothing guarantees the first caravan will even have one for sale.
which one is it...? do, or don't?--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 14:00, 20 June 2010 (UTC)

:Doesn't matter, as they are different strategies. For me, an anvil is not a necessity. I've embarked plenty (mostly due to bugs!) and it seems like the items the first caravan brings are always the same, and include a steel and iron anvil. The first traders in 40d seemed to bring a lot more random stuff. Anybody?--[[User:Kwieland|Kwieland]] 20:42, 22 July 2010 (UTC)

::I've had several maps where no dwarven caravan EVER showed up (thus no anvil to buy)! I don't know if this is intended or why it happens, but it does happen from time to time.[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 20:51, 6 August 2010 (UTC)
:::I think the dwarven caravan not appearing is because your parent civilization died during worldgen. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 14:30, 3 December 2010 (UTC)

::Several days ago (playing 0.31.18) my first dwarven caravan didn't bring any anvil. It's not so unusual.--[[User:WwWraith|WwWraith]] 22:59, 17 February 2011 (UTC)

==Size of embark squares==
Not sure if this is noted anywhere on the wiki, but I think it might be useful to know that a single square on embark equates to a 48 by 48 square in fortress mode. Useful if you need to know a minimum size embark for that megaproject you're cooking up. [[User:Jjdorf|Jjdorf]] 22:33, 8 July 2010 (UTC)
: So the minimum embark of 2x2 is sized 96x96. --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 22:39, 3 August 2010 (UTC)

== "Bone carving is next to worthless"? ==

I'm curious why Proteus feels bone carving is "next to worthless". Did he simply mean worthless as an embark skill, given that you'll quickly level it up? Or does he not churn out thousands upon thousands of dwarfbucks worth of bone/horn crafts to trade to the elves, and hundreds of bone bolts for hunters/military, like I do? --[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 12:55, 3 August 2010 (UTC)
: Wood, stone and metal are easier to come by than bones. Bone bolts are probably as bad as the wooden ones. --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 22:39, 3 August 2010 (UTC)
:: I wouldn't say it's harder to get bone, a single hunter killing large critters produces way more bone than even 2-3 crafters can use up.--[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 20:29, 6 August 2010 (UTC)
:::Bone carvers are tremendous. When carvers are ordered to make bones, they make five for each bone in the stack, one job at a time. A single draltha can yield hundreds of training bolts! Anyone who thinks bone carving is next to worthless is missing out. Bone bolts are fully capable of killing goblins, too. [[User:JohnnyMadhouse|JohnnyMadhouse]] 21:20, 6 August 2010 (UTC)

== Embark with trolls ==

After downloading the most recent version of DF (0.31.12) I generated a new world and embarked on a site found with the tool.
While i was examining my "dwarves", preparing for the embark, i noticed in the description that they were "huge humanoid monster with coarse fur, large tusks and horns"...
Confused, I confirmed the embark nonetheless, but after striking the earth my "dwarves" were represented by the letter T, their description was the one usually given to trolls, and it seems like I could butcher them...
It seems like i embarked with seven trolls instead of Dwarves! I assume it is a bug, right? --[[Special:Contributions/151.49.255.40|151.49.255.40]] 13:20, 25 August 2010 (UTC)

== Armor user ==
Is there any advantage in leveling armor user before embarking? – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:91.10.249.49|91.10.249.49]]
:The dwarf in question can use armor (as in, "not shields") better. Since you'd have to buy a bunch of armor to protect said dwarf... I think Shield User and Dodger are both better skills - the one requires only a shield, while the other needs no gear. Or you could go for more offense and add Fighter skill to your chosen melee weapon skill. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 14:30, 3 December 2010 (UTC)

== .19 update ==
can someone update this for the new finder?

== Function overlap: Starting Builds ==
The entire prepare carefully section is a duplication in function, if not form, of [[Starting Build]]. I'm going to rationally disperse the information between the two and do the relevant merging. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 09:30, 23 April 2011 (UTC)

== "You can start your fortress with just 118☼ worth of items" ==

''You can start your fortress with just 124 118☼ worth of items (iron anvil - 100☼, 3 copper nuggets for 2 picks and an axe - 18☼; logs can be gathered from deconstructing the wagon - 0☼).''

I just tried this, but there was no fire-safe stone to make the forge. Unless I'm missing something, this should be corrected. --[[Special:Contributions/189.34.50.57|189.34.50.57]] 00:49, 20 May 2011 (UTC)

:My understanding, though I've never tried it, is that you use the ash from burned wood to construct the forge. --[[User:Jwest23|Jwest23]] 04:05, 20 May 2011 (UTC)
In my opinion this struggling for "you can start with less or lesser items" is a stupid thing. First of all, you can start with no items at all and still create a functional fortress. You'd just use the logs of the wagon to create at last one training axe (or more) and chop down trees to create everything of wood until you can buy picks from a caravan or everything needed to create them. The second point is, it is not necessary. You have enough points to give all your dwarves maximum skills and will still be able to by what you need. And last, but not least: The oly reason not to start with nothing at all is to be independent from caravans. But, you will not need two picks, because one is enough to find ore you can use to produce more...--[[User:Kami|Kami]] 08:47, 20 May 2011 (UTC)

== Choosing a civilization ==

The article currently says, ''"There is just ONE BIG RULE: ... Your home civilization will need more than one dwarven place on the map."''

But there's no explanation of how to determine the size of the available civs. I don't see any relevant information on the articles for [[Civilization]] or [[Location]], either. Can someone who knows more about this flesh it out, please? --[[User:Hanibal Barcalounger|Hanibal Barcalounger]] 01:56, 1 October 2011 (UTC)

:Before finishing up when genning the world, export the world information ({{k|p}} IIRC). Then in regionXX-world_sites_and_pops.txt, you can look up each dwarven civilization presented to you to choose from, to see if they're still alive (i.e. have any dwarven population at all). Also in regionXX_-world_history.txt, whether they have a living monarch. That or Legends mode. [[Special:Contributions/218.186.8.11|218.186.8.11]] 09:42, 3 November 2011 (UTC)

== One fuel, not two ==

(even with magma) "you'll be cutting down two trees and burning them to make charcoal for every unit of hematite you are lucky enough to find."

Not so. Yes, it takes one fuel to get pig iron, and one fuel to get from pig to steel, but those 2 fuel consume 2 iron bars from 2 hematite, and produce 2 steel. So using magma, 100 iron ore + 100 flux + 100 fuel = 100 steel. Without magma, 300 fuel = 100 steel (the same 100 as before, plus power for 200 smelting jobs). I'd change it, but the error has been there for ages (at least a year) without correction, so someone please check me on this. [[Special:Contributions/218.186.8.11|218.186.8.11]] 09:42, 3 November 2011 (UTC)
:I Agree. The "fuel" is either a carbon source or a power source.
:ore + power (magma or coke or charcoal) => iron
:iron + flux + carbon (coke or charcoal) + power => pig iron
:iron + pig iron + flux + carbon + power => 2 steel
:So, combining the above:
:2 ore + 2 flux + 2 carbon + 4 power => 2 steel
:So with magma for power, 2 "fuel" produce 2 steel from 2 ore (and 2 flux), or one "fuel" per iron ore. Without magma its 6 "fuel" to make 2 steel, or 3 "fuel" per ore. [[User:Khearn|Khearn]] 23:56, 3 November 2011 (UTC)
:I've updated the page with the correct numbers. [[User:Khearn|Khearn]] 00:43, 4 November 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Embark

2011-11-04T00:41:24Z

Khearn: /* Layers */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

'''Embark''' is the moment at the very beginning of the game, before actual game play begins (but after {{L|World generation|generating a world}}), when you and your initial 7 dwarves:
# Choose a site.
# Assign starting {{L|skill|skills}} to each dwarf.
# Select an initial load of {{L|supplies|supplies and equipment}}.
# Arrive at the site with your wagon full of supplies.

= Choosing a Site =
The process of choosing a site in DF2010 is much less involved than prior versions due to the ubiquitous presence of magma, gems, and ore, but that said there are still several considerations to keep in mind, namely aquifers, ore types, wood, climate, and neighbors.
There is just ONE BIG RULE: when your home civ is too small, you will first recognize after the 2nd winter that you won't get more immigrants, which can be {{L|Fun|extremely fun}}. Your home civilization will need more than one dwarven place on the map.

[[File:Embark.jpg]] 

The Choose Fortress Location screen shows four separate sections, with three of them being three views of the land at three different levels of magnification: Local, Region, and World. A section of highlighted tiles in the Local view indicates the current embark location within the region. The local view constitutes a 16x16 grid of embark area tiles (each representing 48x48 tiles when you are playing the game) that is within a single region tile. The world map cannot be directly controlled, and exists only to give you the overall view of where, relative to the rest of the features of the world, the region map is focused on.

The arrow keys control the X cursor in the center "Region" view while {{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} move the embark location around within the Local view. {{K|Shift}}-{{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} will resize the embark location.

The size of the embark location directly affects how much data about a map the game will have to store in your computer's memory, the size of your save files, and correspondingly, will dramatically affect the save and load times for your map, potentially make pathfinding more resource-intensive, and may generally slow your game down. As such, smaller maps are recommended, especially for less powerful computers. Remember that each tile on your embark screen is 48x48 tiles large.

On the far right of the screen is a list of local features in the dominant biome. Individual biomes, which form at least one map-tile of your embark location, can be cycled with the {{Key|F#}}-keys; for example, an area with 3 biomes present can be cycled using {{Key|F1}}, {{Key|F2}} and {{Key|F3}}. The selected biome will be highlighted with flashing Xs on the Local Map, and the biome's information will be displayed on the right side of the screen. The list at the bottom of the biome information indicates the dominant soil/stone composition from top to bottom for the first eight layers.

== Biomes ==
Main article: {{L|Biome|biome}}

A '''biome''' is a biotic area with homogeneous features, characterized by distinctive {{L|plant|plants}}, {{L|creatures|animal species}} and {{L|climate|climate}}.

In the above image, the biome is "Temperate Savanna", and the region the biome is part of is given a specific name: "The Jade Horn-Land".

Biomes will also contain only one set of stone layers, though these usually expand beyond a single biome. Your {{L|dwarves|dwarves}} will find different resources depending on which biomes they select when starting a fort.

Biomes are important when choosing a fortress location in order to understand your {{L|surroundings|surroundings}}.

=== Climate ===
Main article: {{L|climate|climate}}

Climate determines the maximum temperature range of the region, which in turn impacts the severity of exposure to the outside, whether water will freeze in winter, and how quickly water evaporates.

The climate is displayed as "Temperature: Warm" in the above image.

Very hot and very cold biomes bring their own challenges which may be further compounded with overlapping features, such as a glacier being frozen for half the year, and being devoid of trees, and lacking a river. Very hot climates may see all its surface water quickly evaporate, making finding a water supply more dangerous, as underground caves filled with hostile creatures may be the only supply of water.

=== Plant Life ===
Main article: {{L|Tree|trees}} and {{L|Shrub|shrubs}}

Seen in the above image as "Trees: Sparse" and "Other Vegetation: Moderate".

Trees are useful for the {{L|wood}} they provide, and wood is a basic building material, important for being the only material that beds can be made of, and, as metal bins and barrels require three times as much of less common metal resources as wood bins and barrels do, they are preferred materials for that, as well. Wood is also a renewable source for {{L|charcoal}}, the {{L|fuel}} used in forges to make metal products in smelters or forges that are not magma-powered, and is needed to make steel even when you have magma forges. Wood is finally also useful in making {{L|potash}} for soap or fertilizing farms.

In spite of wood's many uses, it is entirely possible to play in this version without any trees in your biomes, as trees can be farmed in muddied underground areas regardless of how barren the surface is. Due to the inexpensive nature of wood, it is possible to simply embark with enough wood to last until you are ready to set up tree farming operations underground. Wood is also a common good that elves, humans, and dwarves alike will sell to you.

Shrubs can provide some quick food through the {{L|herbalism}} skill, {{L|still|brewable materials}}, and {{L|seeds}} for some very helpful above-ground {{L|Crops|crops}} which are generally only available through trading with Elves.

=== Surroundings ===
Main article: {{L|surroundings}}

Surroundings affect how powerful and hostile local wildlife will be, and some forms of plants are available only in specific types of surroundings.

The surroundings of the example image are listed as, "Surroundings: Wilderness".

Any biome can have any set of surroundings; for example a glacier could be haunted, wilderness or mirthful. However, a named region (which is a contiguous area of one category of biomes, such as forests or wetlands) will be either good, neutral, or evil.

There are two axes for surroundings: Savagery and alignment. Calm and neutral savagery are functionally identical. Savage lands are like normal lands, except they will frequently have giant or hostile humanoid versions of normal animals, for example you might have a {{L|Tigerman}} instead of "merely" a {{L|tiger}} in a savage jungle.

Good biomes are similar to neutral biomes, except have more fanciful (and generally benign) creatures like {{L|pixie}}s, {{L|fluffy wambler}}s, or {{L|unicorn}}s, and are generally no more dangerous than neutral biomes. Evil biomes are home to many dangerous creatures, often dead vegetation and even including undead versions of normal creatures, making for a far more hostile environment specifically for players who want to face a greater challenge to stay alive, especially early on. Trees might not grow in an evil area.

It is possible to start a fortress that overlaps multiple alignment types (for example good, evil, savage, and benign). Some players consider this desirable, as it provides diversity in your little corner of the world, but it also has its dangers in the form of more ferocious wildlife.

=== Layers ===
Main articles: {{L|Layer}}, {{L|Ore|ore}} and {{L|Stone|stone}}

At the bottom right of the biome view, some of the main features of the site are reported. In older versions, you used to get a report of the major stone type of each of the top eight layers. Now, however, you get only reports of ''shallow metal(s)'' and/or ''deep metal(s)''. You will also be told whether the biome has a thin, or thick, layer of soil on top of it, and whether that soil includes {{L|clay}}. Deep soil layers make underground farming extremely quick to set up (no {{L|irrigation}} needed).

Each type of layer stone has certain kinds of ores, gems, and other minerals that will appear within that form of layer. It is very difficult to produce {{L|steel}} without a {{L|sedimentary layer}}. ({{L|Steel}} makes nearly the {{L|Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|best weapons and armor}}, and the materials are fairly easy to acquire if you have sedimentary layers.)

To forge {{L|steel}}, you will need {{L|iron}} ore, {{L|flux}} stone, and {{L|fuel}}. The three ores of {{L|iron}} (hematite, magnetite, and limonite) can only be found in sedimentary layers, with the exception of hematite, which can occasionally be found in {{L|igneous extrusive}} layers. Furthermore, four of the five {{L|flux}} stones (calcite, chalk, dolomite, and limestone) are also only found in sedimentary layers, as well as both {{L|coal}} ores (bituminous coal and lignite) for making {{L|coke}} fuel.

However, since you can no longer tell whether your top layers of stone are sedimentary until you embark, your best bet is to look for ''shallow metals'' (note the plural). A biome with shallow metals listed has an extremely high chance of containing iron-bearing ores in a sedimentary layer near the surface. Failing that, you're practically guaranteed to get some copper ore (tetrahedrite).

If you have no sedimentary layers, your only hope to make steel is with:
* hematite in {{L|igneous extrusive}} layers
* marble in {{L|metamorphic}} layers
* wood for making {{L|charcoal}} fuel
Even if you find and exploit magma for your furnaces, you'll still need the fuel in the smelting process, so you'll be cutting down one tree and burning it to make charcoal for every unit of hematite you are lucky enough to find. Without magma it will be 3 trees per hematite.

=== Aquifer ===
Main article: {{L|aquifer}}

An aquifer is a layer of soil or stone saturated with water, and a biome may contain up to 3 aquifer layers (theoretically more, but such would be rare to say the least). Embarking on an aquifer brings up a warning before embark as an aquifer can significantly raise the difficulty of starting a fort. For specific tactics on working with an aquifer, see the {{L|aquifer|main page}}.

== Changing Views ==
Pressing {{K|Tab}} will cycle the presented information through a variety of different views and panels.
*Neighbors - other civilizations that are closest to your current location. Proximity increases the chance of interaction, though at present this largely means "nearby goblins are more likely to attack you." If any race is not represented on this page, it means that the civilization cannot reach you if you are in that location. Embarking on an {{l|island}}, or a location completely surrounded by mountains will make it impossible for any civilization but your own dwarven civilization to reach you, as world map travel across oceans or mountains is impossible. If not even "Dwarves" appears, it means that your home civilization is dead, and there will be no {{l|migrants}} or {{l|trade}} with your home civilization. (If this is the case, it is recommended you change to a still-existent civilization unless you want the challenge of having no support from the mountainhomes.) Races that are hostile to you are represented by a series of red "-" marks. In vanilla DF, goblins are always hostile, but humans or elves may also be at war with particular dwarven civilizations (and if you choose your starting civilization in the "Your Civilization" screen, they may not be at war with you).
*Your Civilization - indicates all Dwarven civilizations in the world. {{K|*}} and {{K|-}} will cycle through the civilizations allowing you to choose which your settlers will be embarking from. Civilization choice will affect who is at war with you, what goods are available for trade and at embark, who your regent will be (considering [[Cacame Awemedinade|one might be surprised by who turns out to be one's regent]]), and if there are any surviving members of your civilization left to migrate to or trade with your fort. Some of this information is only viewable in {{l|Legends}} Mode, but you can view accessible goods and materials after hitting {{k|e}}mbark by looking at what items you can choose to embark with. If you don't like the options, simply {{k|Esc}} to get the main menu and choose Abort Game. (You will have to find the site again, but it saves you from needing to abandon the fortress).
*Relative Elevation - Shows the land height relative to the lowest point in the region.
*Cliff Indicator - Shows the severity of cliffs. Unless you have turned erosion off, then, with the exception of rivers that cut through mountains, even apparently very steep cliffs will still have ramps that make it perfectly accessible for any creature or even the wagons in caravans.

== Reclaiming a fortress ==
:''Main article: {{L|Reclaim fortress mode}}''
If you {{L|Reclaim fortress mode|reclaim the site}} of an abandoned fortress you may see goods, materials, and corpses left from the previous effort. These items will initially be {{L|forbid|forbidden}} and you will have to {{L|Reclaim|reclaim items}} before your dwarves will acknowledge their existence, for example to haul them to a graveyard or refuse {{L|stockpile}}.

= Creating Your Settlers =

== Play Now! ==
You can forgo the process of assigning skills and supplies and instead select '''Play Now!''' This option will give you a selection of Dwarves with the following profiles:

Updated for 0.31.13:
* Miner: Adequate Miner
* Woodworker: Novice Carpenter, Bowyer
* Woodcutter: Novice Wood Cutter, Brewer, Cook, Grower, Herbalist, Furnace Operator, Wood Burner, Lye Maker, Potash Maker
* Stoneworker: Novice Engraver, Mason, Mechanic, Building Designer
* Jeweler: Novice Gem Cutter, Gem Setter, Wood Crafter, Stone Crafter, and Bone Crafter
* Fisherdwarf: Novice Fisherdwarf
* Fish Cleaner: Novice Fish Cleaner, Butcher, Tanner, Weaver, Clothier, and Leatherworker

One of these will be randomly flagged as Expedition Leader at the start.

From 0.31.12: The default embark value for a custom embark is 1274: 974 in pre-chosen goods and 300 unassigned. The Play Now! embark only uses 1038 points. While a Play Now! embark is no more doomed than any other embark, it is always better to Prepare Carefully once you know what you're doing with the set up of an early fort since Novice Butcher is hardly better than a Dwarf you manually flagged for the job.

Note: In 0.31.13, you no longer embark with any medical skills.

== Prepare Carefully ==
Preparing allows the player to customize their embarking party and supplies by spending a pool of points which is shared between skills and equipment, with each skill rank and equipment item having a set value. The total value of embarking is set at 1,274 points, though all but 300 of these are pre-spent on an array of basic equipment (the same equipment Play Now! uses.) It stands that one should try to maximize the value of their embark by spending all available points.

===Using the menu===
Use {{k|Tab}} to switch between selecting Skills and Items. Use the 4 directional keys or number pad to navigate to highlight the different choices/columns, and {{k|+}} or {{k|-}} to choose more or less of the highlighted item or skill. When viewing items, hit {{k|n}} to go to a menu for any "new" items, that are not currently listed, including any you removed by reducing the number to 0; select the item, hit {{k|Enter}}, then increase the number desired as above ({{k|+}} or {{k|-}}) in the main menu.

If you cannot buy additional skill levels, you are out of points and must return some items for additional points. Higher-priced items will automatically be removed from viewable new items if you do not have enough points for those selections, showing only what you can afford with your current points.

=== Skills ===
Main article: {{L|Skills|skills}}

The seven settlers you begin with can be assigned up to ten skill ranks picked from the entire Dwarven skill list, including military, though only a maximum of 5 ranks (giving them a rank of "Proficient") can be bought in any one skill. Skill ranks are bought from the shared pool at a cost of 5 for the first rank, 6 for the second, 7 for the third, and so on. Maxing out a skill thus costs a total of 35 points. Although this is already fairly involved, between the long skill list and the floating cost, the value of a rank is subject to further scrutiny given the early-game value, or lack thereof, of certain skills as well as the relative ease or difficulty of training ranks in a given skill. Many skills are performed just as well (or with little functional difference) by a Novice or even a Dabbler as they are by a Legendary. A Novice Furnace Operator won't produce Coke as fast as a Legendary Furnace Operator, but they will produce it fast enough to keep their neighbor smelting hematite until the cows come home.

For a more complex example, there is much overlap between what can be produced out of wood and what can be produced out of metal, but wood is plentiful in the early game (often throughout if a tree farm is established, and caravans will bring in several pages worth of wood if you request it) while metalworking can take much longer to establish, or would take several times longer to produce a given product in early game due to the multiple steps required, especially without a magma smelter. Metalworking also skills up slower than woodworking and metal products have a longer base production time than wood products.

From one point of view, the Woodworking skills would be of more immediate use in producing quick goods of higher value in the early game, especially given the high volume needed; however furniture quality is of little concern in the early game, and the high volume of value-independent goods (such as barrels which you won't be trading away on their own or using to furnish chambers) will cause your carpenter to skill up fairly quickly. Even on a strictly functional level even a Novice carpenter can produce beds, barrels, and bins fast enough to keep up with a fledgling base. Lastly, once metal production is up and running, it can be agonizingly slow if a Farmer or Peasant has to be re-assigned to learn from scratch, thus a proficient Metalsmith stands to pay off much more in time than starting with a proficient Carpenter.

=== Supplies ===

The default array of supplies covers a broad range of foodstuffs, seeds, drink, tools, and medical equipment, and is reasonable, though extra food and drink never hurt anyone.
:* 2 Copper {{l|pick}}s
:* 2 Copper battle {{l|axe}}s
:* 1 Iron {{l|anvil}} ( or Steel {{l|anvil}} if your home civilization has no access to iron )
:* 60 units alcohol (20 each of 3 random types1, 12 free barrels)
:* 6 bags containing 5x dimple cup, cave wheat, plump helmet, sweet pods, pig tail, and quarry bush {{l|seed}}s
:* 15 units of meat (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of fish (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of plump helmets (10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 5 pig tail fiber thread
:* 5 pig tail fiber cloth
:* 5 pig tail fiber bags
:* 3 pig tail fiber ropes
:* 3 wooden buckets
:* 3 wooden splints
:* 3 wooden crutches
:* 2 dogs (random sex)
:* 2 cats (random sex)
:* 1 random cow/ox/mule/horse (random sex)

Lower forest embark sites should definitely consider bringing extra logs to cover the early demand for beds, &c. Also do not overlook the value of bringing animals. Dogs in particular can provide an excellent early warning system, good fighters against kobolds and other thieves, and a healthy supply of meat and bones. You may also want to consider replacing the pig tail fiber items with much cheaper (regular, not giant) cave spider silk items.

===Saving a starting mix===
Once you have the mix of items and skills that you like, you can hit {{k|s}} and save it to a template with a custom name. In a later game, you can pick that profile when you embark. If your selected civilization does not have some of the desired items in your template, this is announced clearly, and a different civilization can be tried as described above, or you can continue and change your mix.

If you match skills to the {{l|preferences}} and {{L |personality|personalities}} of your dwarves, it may be an idea not to include any skills in such a template, as they will simply be applied in the original order to the current dwarves as they appear on the list.

If you find additional items that you wish to add (perhaps another type of cheap meat, or an ore not previously available), you can edit those in by hitting {{k|s}}, overwriting your old template.

:''(You can also go into the .txt file, located at data/init/embark_profiles, and edit in the SKILLS or ITEMS as you want - the syntax is fairly straightforward.)''

== Embark Strategies ==
Main article: {{l|Starting build}}

The strategies below are suggestions. They are not universal, and many are even contradictory. This is because there is no one true way to play Dwarf Fortress. Some may not work for you because of unstated assumptions about priority, value, fun, or procedure. However, since Losing is Fun, it's always worth it to try something out, even if it doesn't go well.

=== Picking the Right Location ===

'''Need More Dirt (and Its Inverse)''' - three layers of soil before the stone layers begin provides a very large area that can be used to quickly carve out efficient storage rooms, as well as easy construction of large farms and tree farms without the need to flood/muddy large areas of stone. Remember, the embark screen only lists the first eight layers, and the total number of layers is highly random. More dirt does not necessarily mean less stone.

'''Flowing Water (and Its Inverse)''' - flowing water (river or stream) is a must have for the infinite power it supplies for working machinery and because underground water supplies are too dangerous to tap into. There is no guarantee of infinite water underground, you could embark on a map with completely dry caverns. However, rainier climates will always have murky pools, which with careful management can be refilled from the rain. Infinite power for working machinery can be created using a limited amount of water in a perpetual motion machine. Although, being limited in quantity, murky pools simply do not have the capacity to permanently flood your fortress, while a single mistake with an infinite source can easily do so.

=== Preparation Strategies ===

'''Free Barrels''' - many products are stored in bins, barrels, or bags and do not stack with other items even if they're in the same broad classification. Plump Helmets and Horse Meat come in separate barrels even though they're both food. Purchasing a single item of food (or increasing the number to one above the storage limit of the barrel i.e. 11, 21, 31) will also produce a free barrel for it to be stored in. As barrels have a cost of 10 to buy empty, buying a single unit of cost 2 foodstuffs gets you a value of 5. Anything above cost 2 bought for the express purpose of getting barrels would be better off just buying barrels empty or raw logs. This concept can be extended to many different goods, and for any stored good you were "going to buy anyway" you should avoid buying exactly a containerful. Do not get 20, get 21.
* Note that meat products from the same animal will store in the same barrel, thus 1 unit of Horse Meat and 1 unit of Horse Tripe will only get you one barrel, not two.
* Upon arrival you can build a kitchen and prepare lavish meals out of all those single units of meat. This will "compress" your food, and free up some barrels for brewing. Size of stacks of food from cooking is equal to sum of stack sizes of ingredients, so you lose nothing.

'''Cheaper food''' you can bring lots of milk (worth 1 embark point each), build a farmers workshop, and make cheese out of that milk. Combine this with the trick for free barrels, cook lavish meals out of that cheese and meat, and you will get some free barrels, and good quality food for cheap. Making milk into cheese is very fast, and requires no skill ,just enable cheese making on your cook or brewer.
* To save on alcohol (you should probably still bring some of it, though) get plump helmets for 4 embark point each. Remember to disable cooking them in z -> Kitchen menu. Build a still, and brew them all, each will make 5 units of alcohol. You can supplement this with gathering and brewing local plants.
* Cooking lavish meals out of 1 unit of meat, and full barrels of alcohol made on the spot from plump helmets (known as booze cooking) can produce even more food, but only if one knows how to do it.

'''Cheap Bags''' - while even the cheapest bags (made from cave spider silk and low-value leather) cost 10 points each, you can instead simply bring several units of {{L|sand}} costing 1 point each, as each unit of sand will be stored in its own bag made from a randomly selected material (including giant cave spider silk and valuable creature leather).

'''Don't Really Need That''' - unless you have tailored your embark for metal production quick and early, an anvil is typically unnecessary and the 100 points you get from refunding it can be better spent on skills or additional foodstuffs (can't really have enough foodstuffs). By the time the Dwarven caravan arrives in the fall, a 100☼ iron anvil, or even a 300☼ steel anvil, should be little more than an inconvenience. This can sometimes be <s>problematic</s> [[Fun]] if you are unlucky and the caravan does not bring an anvil.

'''REALLY Don't Need That''' - For players more familiar with the game. Bring no pre-constructed goods (weapons, buckets, etc.), just the materials to make them with. This requires several (3-10, though you're likely to bring way more) logs, some fire-safe stone, some bars of copper, and an anvil. Upon arrival, build a Wood Furnace and a Forge, make charcoal, then picks for the {{L|miner}}s and an axe for {{L|wood cutter}}s. Medical supplies should be unnecessary to start with, because if you need them you're screwed. You may want to bring some rope (or just thread) along though. You can start your fortress with just 106☼ worth of items (iron anvil - 100☼, 1 copper nuggets for 1 pick - 6☼, logs can be gathered from deconstructing the wagon and made into 1 training axe - 0☼, fire-safe building material = ash - 0☼, everything else can be made with the raw materials you get from wood-cutting and mining.).

'''Yes, I Do Need That''' - <s>never</s> <s>don't</s> NEVER leave without alcohol unless you have a {{L|brewer}} and a way to gather plants early (untrained {{L|herbalist}}s designated after embarking are enough) or safe water source (preferably flowing).

= See Also =
*New players may find the {{L|Quickstart guide}} useful.
*The {{L|Starting build|Starting Build}} article has more detailed embark strategies.

v0.31 Talk:Embark

2011-11-03T23:56:33Z

Khearn: /* One fuel, not two */ Steel does require 2 "fuel", even with magma.

v0.31 Talk:Workshop

2011-11-03T23:05:35Z

Khearn: /* Concepts and Organization */ comments on tiering system

==Flowchart==
Please list what's missing from the flowchart, rather than simply declaring it incomplete. That way we have a chance of fixing it. I'm leaving this note here because the tag was added on this page. [[User:Rep|Rep]] 17:54, 7 September 2011 (UTC)

==Concepts and Organization==
There is a lot of information on this page, mostly in list form. I'd like to condense the lists into more generalized concepts, useful forms, or transfer some of the information to the specific workshop pages themselves. Any suggestions are welcome! I'm currently working on updating the individual workshop pages, but I have a feeling there is a better way to list the workshops within each tier (alphabetically, the order listed in-game, perhaps in some sub-category?). Even the products could use similar attention. -- [[User:DwarfNuke|DN]] 17:49 1 March 2011 (GMT)

Yes, there is a lot of info. And it ''really'' needs to be corrected, updated and reformatted. But I'm opposed to condensing it down to generalizations. That would greatly diminish its usefulness. Despite its shortcomings, I find the Tier System handy to see at a glance how far removed end products are from the materials used. Using this to make comparisons allows me to judge the time and labor cost to produce goods and make decisions based on efficiency.

As for organizing the Tier System better, I have a question:
'''Should {{L|container}}s be taken into consideration to determine the Tier?'''
Currently, a few workshops (Still, Quern, and Millstone) are listed to consider containers as part of the materials used and, as a result, the goods produced are classified much higher in the Tier than they would otherwise. But most workshops do not do this. I feel a rule should be decided upon to make the Tier System more consistent and clear.

Should containers ever be considered part of the raw materials, such as when a certain container is absolutely necessary? Or should containers always be left out of Tier considerations? IMO, I feel the latter makes much more sense. First, containers usually store stacks of multiple items, so they don't count much toward the labor cost producing 1 unit of a finished good. Secondly, containers are reusable (with the exception of {{L|trading}} products such as liquids or powders to caravans that ''must'' be sold in a container). Since containers are reusable, the dwarf labor and time to make them is inconsequential compared with the actual goods. As long as the goods are consumed or used in the fort, containers are a one-time investment.

If containers were always considered, then the Tiers of materials used and goods produced would have to be greatly expanded, making it vastly more complicated. For instance, bags produced from silk cloth should be Tier 2 because they only require a Tier 1 material. (Silk cloth comes from silk thread, which is produced automatically by a dwarf with the gather web labor. The latter does not require a workshop, so it's Tier 0.) But bags produced with Rope reed thread, Pig tail thread, or Yarn (from Wool) require more processing, so such bags are Tier 3. And anything stored in them would be Tier 4. Similarly, Alcohol can be stored in wood barrels (Tier 1), metal barrels (Tier 2), or a metal {{L|metal#Alloys_2|alloy}} barrel (Tier 3). And it can be stored in {{L|large pot|glazed large pots}} (Tier 2). This makes alcohol fit either Tier 2, Tier 3, or Tier 4, depending on the type and materials of the container. Then, when you try to determine the Tiers of workshops further down which use liquids or powders as ingredients, the complications get compounded. --[[User:Thundercraft|Thundercraft]] 09:15, 20 June 2011 (UTC)
:Containers required by processes should be considered, but not as part of the tiering. Would it be possible to consider just the raw material flow, with notes aside for resources that don't get used up, such as buckets, barrels and bags? Since containers aren't 'consumed', and made from such variety of materials, I don't feel it -should- be used to count tiers, rather, counting by how many steps from raw material the processes the workshop have is. What I'm unsure about is if just the processes itself should be regarded, or the highest-tier process the workshop have as is on the current list? [[User:AutomataKittay|AutomataKittay]] 10:13, 20 June 2011 (UTC)
:I agree, containers should not count in tiering. But I have another issue regarding the whole tier classification system. The mechanic's shop uses rock (tier 0) for the vast majority of its input, but when making a traction bench, it uses a table (tier 1 or higher, depending on the material) and a rope (tier 3 or higher). So is it tier 1 or tier 4? I'd say tier 1, since traction benches aren't its major output. But you can see the problem. The jeweler's shop uses level 0 rough gems for cutting, but level 1 cut gems and level 1+ items for encrusting, is it tier 1 or 2?. Many shops use inputs from different tiers for different tasks. Do you rate a shop at the tier of the task with the lowest inputs, the task with the highest inputs, or the most common task(s)? BTW, the page currently says the mechanic's shop takes 0-1 items, but rope is tier 3 (or more, depending on dying, decorations, etc.). [[User:Khearn|Khearn]] 23:05, 3 November 2011 (UTC)

== Claification needed in some areas ==

Specifically, I need to know whether more than one dwarf can use a workshop or not.
In addition, previous versions of the page are much more detailed in their uses section, including the information not given here that a dwarf will haul material to a workshop for their task, regardless of haul settings.
We should confirm that some of that information still is valid and add it to the current page if necessary. [[Special:Contributions/74.98.229.82|74.98.229.82]] 12:51, 17 July 2011 (UTC)
:"You can use workshop profiles to restrict the use of individual workshops to named dwarves, or to dwarves with specified minimum and maximum levels of skill. " I'm quoting from the article here, to answer your question; multiple dwarves can use a workshop at its default setting (although not at the same time!), but if you modify the profile of a workshop, you can make it so that only single dwarves use it. See profile, or manager. In regards to the the missing information that dwarves will haul material to a workshop for their tasks-- well, they'll always do it. I could imagine that that might be useful information for somebody, but I think the right place to put it is in "hauling," and I'm going to go there next :) Post script: Hey, it's already on that page. Cool. [[Special:Contributions/98.203.173.56|98.203.173.56]] 08:06, 18 July 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Giant moose

2011-10-23T17:16:10Z

Khearn: Updated "Butchering returns" section with new data points based on one I just butchered

{{quality|Fine|01:27, 12 July 2011 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|wiki=no
|contrib=no
|bone=40-44
|fat=20-26
|skin=hide
|skull=1
|meat=60-86
|eye=2
|lung=8
|heart=2
|intestine=12
|liver=4
|tripe=4
|sweetbread=2
|spleen=2
|kidney=4
|brain=4
|hoof=4-8
|horn=2 (males only)
|tooth=1
|hair=1
|biome={{biomelist/aux|{{DF2010:Moose/raw}}}}
|contrib=no}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}
'''Giant moose''' are grazing animals that require a {{l|pasture}} to survive. Their food requirements are so high it is nearly impossible to keep them alive. {{ver|0.31.25}} These creatures are truly enormous (being roughly 10 times the size of a regular moose) and yield large amounts of meat and prepared organs when butchered.
{{Gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

File talk:Sir Henry's 32x32.png

2011-09-30T21:23:52Z

Khearn: This file seems to be of the wrong type and displays as white/pink in the game

This downloads as an 8-bit/color RGBA png file, and when I try to use it with DF, all of the characters are white on pink. The other .png files in data/art are 1-bit, 2-bit, or 4-bit colormaps.