Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

40d:How do I increase the value of a room

2009-11-14T10:40:25Z

Deandet:

[[Category:Stub]]

=Wall and Floor quality=

==Material==
Digging a room within a layer consisting of [[obsidian]] or [[flux]] will inherently give it a higher value than a room built inside a mundane stone such as granite or gabbro. Additionally, veins or clusters of precious minerals (whether [[ore]]s or [[gem]]s) which pass through the room can provide a dramatic boost in value.

==Engraving==
[[Room quality]] can be increased by [[smooth|smoothing]] and [[engrave|engraving]] the walls and the [[floor]].
Stone can be smoothed by any skilled dwarf without decreasing quality, but always engrave with more skillful Dwarves as unskilled Dwarves will permanently prevent you from putting a nice engraving there.

==Construction==
Constructing floors in a room using high-value building components (such as [[aluminum]] or [[platinum]] bars, or perhaps [[soap]] made from [[megabeast]] fat) can dramatically increase the value of a room if its location is important but valuable stones do not occur in the region. Note that constructed floors cannot be engraved, and constructing a floor on top of an existing engraving will destroy the engraving, resulting in the usual consequences of [[engraving#Art defacement|art defacement]].

==Furniture==
Any [[Furniture]] (such as [[statues]], [[chests]], [[cabinets]] or anything listed below) will increase room value. If made out of a material that the dwarf who owns the room likes, they will perceive the room as more valuable than its listed value, and be [[thought|happier]] for it. For instance, if a dwarf likes [[copper]] and/or [[armor stand]]s and you put a +copper armorstand+ in the room, she may view that as a *copper armorstand*. Whether this would be better than a +gold armorstand+, which would simply hammer room value without the increased perception, is in doubt. Dwarves that do not have such preferences perceive the room at its base value.

==Lever==
[[Lever]]s count as furniture for the purpose of increasing room value, and an unlimited number of mechanisms can be connected to a lever simply by linking it to an object and subsequently deconstructing said object (either directly, or by simply pulling the lever if the object is a [[cage]], [[restraint]], or [[support]]).

==Trap==
Weapons not being used by your dwarves (whether due to your military structure or due to the weapon being inherently unusable) can be placed in weapon traps, and traps located in a room will increase the value of the room by the value of all components. A trap containing an artifact weapon can easily max out a room's quality. This works for both conventional weapon traps and upright spears. As an added bonus, a strategically placed menacing spike in an annoying [[Noble]]'s room can also be employed for the purpose of arranging an [[unfortunate accident]].

==Cages==
[[Cages]] add the value of the animals occupying them to the room value, and you can store unlimited amounts of animals in one cage.

==Roads==
You can set a road to be built at maximum size and therefore use the maximum amount of building material (26 items), and still fit it on a single tile so long as all of the other tiles it would be built on are walls or empty space. This means you can have 26 pieces of aluminum or megabeast tallow soap adding value to a room with little effort.

==Other items==
[[Coffins]] not set to burial are not considered rooms and so can be built in other rooms without decreasing that room's value. This takes up space, but you do have to put the coffins somewhere anyways. You might as well get value from them.

==Artifacts==
Most artifacts will boost a room to 'royal'. Furniture artifacts can be built directly, weapons can be put in weapon traps, and buckets can be put in wells.

[[Category:Guides]]

40d:Quest

2009-11-14T10:38:46Z

Deandet:

'''Quests''' in [[adventure mode]] can be obtained from leaders in settlements ([[mayor]]s or civilization leaders). Civilization leaders will give harder quests than mayors.

Quests can be:
*Killing a hostile creature at a particular [[cave]], [[ruin]], camp, etc.
*Assassinating a civilization leader or powerful warrior aligned with an enemy faction. This only happens if the quest giver's civ is at war with an other civ, obviously.

Rewards can be:
*Having your character's kill recorded in legends.
*After many kills of those [[creatures]] your character will earn a title of good, if he doesn't have a title already.
*Your character's affiliation with the entity you complete the quest for ([[town]] or [[civilization]]) will grow stronger.
*Other than that, nothing else that'll benefit your character besides the experience gained from the kill.

= Finding a quest location =

The location of a quest can be found quite easily on the {{k|Q}}uest screen. It will be listed under {{k|t}}asks. If you {{k|z}}oom to selected task, it will move the map to the location of the quest, with a blinking line between your current location and your goal.

Once in the location, you can use both the {{k|Q}}uest map's {{k|z}}oom function to see a greater detailed view of your position relative to the quest location, as well as the minimap legend in the upper left corner of your screen to know the general direction of the feature entrance. The minimap will indicate this by indicating the general compass direction from your current location to the quest location. Three dashes (---) indicates that you are in the general vicinity and should be able to find it nearby.

If the creature is outside of the designated area when you first arrive, you will have the option of traveling directly to the creature, assuming it is still in the site map.

[[Category:Stub]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Easter eggs

2009-11-14T10:36:03Z

Deandet:

:''Hidden Fun Stuff redirects here. It can also refer to... well, [[glowing pit|do you really want us to spoil it for you]]?'' It is also used in the [[dev logs]] to refer to anything Toady doesn't want us to know about until we find it ourselves.

This page is a list of hidden or unexpected aspects of the game.

=== Fluctuating Subtitle ===
When [[Your first fortress|starting up the game]], on the title screen where the player first chooses what to do, the top reads:
Slaves to Armok: God of Blood
Chapter 2: Dwarf Fortress
Histories of ...
'...' will be generated each time the game is opened. Some combinations include "Histories of Avarice and Resourcefulness" and "Histories of Jealousy and Tenacity." Generally, the words will include a synonym each of "greed" and "stubbornness", which as we all know fit the hairy little blighters like a [[Cave spider silk]] [[Clothing#Articles|glove]].

=== Dwarven Daydreams ===

Some dwarves like Toads for their beauty, an obvious inside reference to [[Toady One]].

=== So What If I'm Dead? ===

Checking the [[weather]], temperature, or [[Calendar|date]] in [[Adventure Mode]] after dying will instead return a snarky message reminding you of your current medical state.

=== Bey@nd Quality?! ===

For about one frame, the word "Beyond" in the Bay 12 Games Beyond Quality intro turns into "Bey@nd". Nobody knows why.

=== Oink! ===

In the Bay 12 Games Beyond Quality intro, when the program is saying "Quality", grab the title bar and drag it around a bit. Release, and when the lines appear, you'll hear a pig sound.

=== Help Screen ===

If you press the ? on the help screen you will go to the help screen of the help screen, now press it twice more :-)

=== Dungeons and Dragons ===
In a fortress which doesn't yet have a [[dungeon master]]{{verify}}, open the Manager screen ({{k|j}}{{k|m}} or {{k|u}}{{k|m}}) and {{k|q}}ueue up a new work order, then type in "electu" for a hidden message. (Note - this is not visible once a [[dungeon master]] arrives at a fortress.)

=== Intro Movie ===
Not quite an easter egg, more a spoiler: The final scene of the intro might well be a HFS.

=== No Dwarves? there are toads ! ===
When a creature is named (not for killing a dwarf), you get a message like : "The dwarves named a resident Cave Swallowman Urist McSwallowman". If you are in adventure mode and that all the dwarves/humans/elves/goblins are dead, you get the message : "The ''toads'' named a resident Cave Swallowman Urist McSwallowman".

40d:Trading

2009-08-25T13:03:49Z

Deandet:

{{Building|name=Trade depot|key=D
|job=
1 of:
* [[Broker]] noble
* None (See description)
|construction=
3 of
* [[Block]]
* [[Metal bar]]
* [[Stone]]
* [[Wood]]
|construction_job=
* [[Architecture]]
* and 1 of:
** [[Metalsmithing]]
** [[Masonry]]
** [[Carpentry]]
|purpose=
Trade goods with other races.
}}

'''Trading''' in Dwarf Fortress first occurs in the first [[autumn]] after establishing your fortress, with the arrival of the [[dwarf|Dwarven]] [[Trading#Caravans|caravan]]. Trading is a good way to acquire resources that are not available or are rare in the local area. It also allows for more freedom in selecting starting gear, because items can always be obtained through trade later, e.g. one can drop the expensive [[anvil]] to bring 500 extra units of [[alcohol|booze]] or purchase additional skills for the expedition party. New players can [[Your_first_fortress#Trading|look here]] for advice on trading with the first caravan.

A '''Trader''' is the term used at your [[Trade Depot]] to refer to your fortress [[Broker]] when dealing with [[merchant]]s in a visiting [[caravan]] ({{key|r}} - "''Trader requested at Depot"''). As a [[profession]], the term usually only applies to those merchants, and to a dwarf whose highest [[skill]] is [[Appraiser]].

== Trade Depot ==
Building a '''Trade Depot''' ({{K|b}} - {{K|D}}) will allow you the opportunity to trade with caravans that arrive at your fortress. Trade depots can be created from almost any material, and construction requires the [[Architecture]] skill along with the appropriate craft labor ([[Carpentry]], [[Masonry]], or [[Metalsmithing]]).

While it may be convenient to build a Trade Depot outside first, it is usually a good idea to move it inside or build fortifications around it to protect caravans and your goods from [[thief|thieves]] and [[goblin]]s.

Hit {{K|q}} to bring up the building interaction mode, and then move your cursor over the Trade Depot to gain access to the following options.

Do not build two Trade Depots however, as then neither will work properly.

Everything that is on your map belongs to you, except :
- the items of non-forteress members (only if they are alive, when they are dead they belong to you if you claim the items),
- the items that are in trade wagons or on merchant animals
- the items that are on the trade depot (they belong to nobody until they are moved out of it)
So, merchant goods that ''were'' on the trade depot belong to you if they are not on trade wagons/merchant animals. So a little hint : when the merchants finished to unload, remove the depot...

=== Move Goods to/from Depot ===
{{K|g}}: This command becomes active when a caravan arrives on your map. This screen menu is similar to the [[stock]]s menu ({{K|z}} - Stocks). This is where you select what items you want to trade with the caravan. If you have particular items you want to sell to the caravan, you can {{K|s}}earch for it. This is convenient if you want to export all your prepared meals or finished goods. Also shown is the culling on {{K|m}}andate option. The move to depot screen will not show things that violate an export [[mandate]]. By pressing {{K|m}}, it will change to Ignoring {{K|m}}andates, and you can select banned items for export. For example, if your [[mayor]] has a mandate banning the export of iron, this screen will hide bins that contain iron items. By changing this option, all iron items will be shown.<br\> <br\>After selecting items and exiting the screen, [[jobs]] will be queued to move the items to the depot. All dwarves, regardless of [[labor]] settings, can move goods to the depot. Items that have not been moved will show [PENDING], while those that have been brought to the depot and are ready for trade and will be marked as [TRADING]. <br\><br\>Items selected for trading will remain at the depot until the caravan leaves. Alternatively you can select the item again. Once no longer required at the depot, items will be available for use or hauling to stockpiles as normal. If you don't want all the items to be returned to their stockpiles, you can optionally {{K|f}}orbid them by looking at the [[Controls_guide#View_items_in_buildings.2C_t|i{{K|t}}ems]] in the depot.

=== No trader needed at depot or Trader requested at depot ===
{{K|r}}: This requests a dwarf to come to the depot. To conduct trades with caravans, a trader must be present at the Trade Depot. Once requested, a dwarf will make their way to the depot, and remain there until released with this setting, or the dwarf decides to drink, sleep, or eat.

=== Only broker may trade or Anyone may trade ===
{{K|b}}: This setting determines who will perform the trade. If '''Only broker may trade''' is active, then only the [[Broker]] [[noble]] will respond to the trader request. This can become a problem when the broker is sleeping or otherwise occupied, but dwarves with low [[Broker skills]] will receive poorer deals when trading.

=== Trade ===
{{K|t}}: This option becomes available once the caravan and your trader are both at the depot. It begins trading.

==Trading==
{{:Trading/Flowchart}}
After entering the trade menu, select the items to offer from the right, and the desired items from the left. All caravans have a weight limit which cannot be exceeded, and the allowed additional weight is displayed in the lower right corner. If the acting broker has at least Novice or better [[Appraisal]] skill, the value of all items will be displayed. Once the proposal is ready, press {{K|t}} to make an offer, but merchants will not agree unless they make adequate profit. Be sure to use '''trade''', not '''offer''' {{K|o}}, as this will make a gift of the selected items. The amount of acceptable profit is determined by the broker's [[Broker skills|skills]] and the merchant's mood, described below. Merchants may attempt to propose counteroffers if they do not accept the proposal, which can then be accepted, rejected, or further amended by the broker.

A good rule of thumb for inexperienced brokers is to give merchants a 50% or better profit. For example, if the desired goods are worth 500☼, make sure their profit is at least 250☼ (which would make the total worth of the offered goods 750☼). This should ensure that the merchants are happy with the trading and that they accept the trade immediately without making ridiculous counteroffers. With more experienced brokers or pleased merchants, even marginally profitable trades can be successful, and counteroffers can be rejected safely, offering the same trade again. Note however that a low profit margin for the traders may not be desirable - it has been suggested that both export and profit numbers influence the size of next years caravan and, in the case of the dwarven caravan, immigration numbers.

Goods brought from caravans do not have base quality higher than superior, but decorations on a good may be of any quality.

=== Trading cue colors ===

* Items in brown have been created (or modified) by your fortress. They can be traded away or offered as a gift.
* Items in white were created by another source. They can be traded, but if one of these items has been selected, the entire selection cannot be offered as a gift.
* Items in purple are under a no-export mandate and should not be traded away unless exceptional circumstances (or masochism) push you to do this.
* Items in green have just been gifted to the caravan and they will not trade it back.
* Items in red have been seized from another caravan and cannot be traded as is; you will need to decorate them or turn them into other items for them to become "valid" trading items. However, usually a caravan from a different civilization will accept stolen goods without changing them first.

=== Merchant mood ===
If your broker has Novice or better [[Judge of Intent]] skill, there will be a line added below the merchant's dialogue describing the caravan's attitude. Their attitude rises with successful trades (especially if they get lots of profit) and falls when you propose deals they don't like.

* (trader) seems ecstatic with the trading
* (trader) seems very happy about the trading
* (trader) seems pleased with the trading
* (trader) seems willing to trade (Default, at least for humans)
* (trader) seems to be rapidly losing patience
* (trader) is not going to take much more of this
* (trader) is unwilling to trade

The happier you make a merchant, the less profit margin he will demand in a trade. If merchants reach the lowest level, no further trade will be possible, and they will immediately pack up and leave your depot. Since annoyed traders are more likely to reject deals, you should be generous in initial negotiations. Skilled negotiators seem less likely to offend traders with unsuccessful deals.

=== Seizing items ===

Pressing {{K|s}} from the trade menu will seize the selected items of the merchant's. If you seize goods from a caravan, the merchant will respond "Take what you want. I can't stop you." and then leave immediately without the seized goods. Items cannot be seized from the dwarven caravan, and other races will not buy goods stolen from one of their caravans (then marked in red) unless they are tricked into asking for them via counteroffer, or the items are "naturalized" by decoration or used to create other goods. Seizing goods will hurt diplomatic relations, but is not grounds for an automatic [[siege]].

Pressing the seize button while no goods are selected will result in the merchant interpreting your seizure as a joke. This apparently does nothing to benefit or hinder your trading.

As a side note, if you remove your trade depot, all the caravan's items will drop to the ground, to be readily hauled away by your dwarves. This does not mark the item as stolen, and the caravan will leave.

Another way to steal without marking as stolen is to forbid traders' goods. They will leave them in depot.

Note that the civilization attached to a particular caravan will keep track of the value of items the caravan was carrying when they set out to trade, and they will compare this value with the value of items they return home with. Regardless of what method you use to confiscate items from a caravan, even if you came to possess the goods through no fault of your own (an [[ambush]] killed the caravaners, for example) the parent civilization may decide that you stole from them and send a [[siege]] instead of a caravan the following year. It is prudent to take measures to protect caravans visiting your lands!

===Offering items===

{{key|o}} You can also give away items, as gifts to the leaders of the [[civilization]] you are trading with. This presumably helps relations between yourself and the other faction. The exact effects are unknown but it is believed that offering goods increases the quantity and variety of trade goods brought by next year's caravan. Also the [[King]] may require offerings before his arrival.

== Caravans ==
Each friendly race will send a caravan once per year, but only if that race considers the fortress site accessible (as denoted on the embark screen). The exception is dwarves, who always arrive. Caravans appear to enter the map from a random direction which does not coincide with the relative direction of the originating [[civilization]], and they may appear from different directions or z-levels each year. Caravans may leave without trading if it takes too long to reach the trade depot, and they cannot use stairs. Caravans will embark on their journey back exactly one month after their arrival, whether they have succeeded in reaching the depot or not.

Note that if traders or their animals are prevented from leaving, they will eventually go [[insane]].

=== Wagons ===
[[Image:Depot alley.png|thumb|right|A depot in the fortress, with a narrow, trapped accessway.]]
[[Image:Depot accessible.png|thumb|right|Composite image of depot access screen. Strategically arranged walls and natural obstacles (boulders) force wagons to enter and exit the map immediately to the east of the depot.]]
All races except elves will send [[wagon]]s with their caravans, which have a much greater capacity for bringing foreign imports and accepting dwarven exports. Unfortunately, wagons require paths that are three tiles wide to pass. Wagons may enter the map in a location different from merchants with pack [[animals]], if the point the animals entered was inaccessible to the wagons. If wagons are unable to find an open path to your trade depot (or if you have not built a depot at all), they will bypass your site and you will only be able to trade for what is available on the pack animals.

Wagons '''cannot''' cross [[stair]]s or [[door]]s (even if the doors span an area ordinarily wide enough for the wagon to pass). Obstructing [[boulder]]s must be smoothed ( {{K|d}} - {{K|s}} ), and [[tree]]s must be cut down ( {{K|d}} - {{K|t}} ). [[Shrub]]s do not obstruct wagons, and neither do [[ramp]]s, [[bridge]]s, [[road]]s, or [[floor]] tiles. (However, ramps covered by a [[hatch]] do obstruct.) The impassable tiles of [[workshop]]s and other buildings will obstruct, but the passable tiles of those buildings will not. Any buildings which are normally passable, including [[restraint]]s and [[trap]]s, will not obstruct wagons either, nor will creatures, whether restrained or free.

To keep trees from growing and blocking a path, you should build roads, bridges, or floor tiles over any [[soil]] tiles that make up part of the path. Ramps must be used to adjust [[z-level]] elevation. A wagon can't go directly from a ramp to a bridge, there must be floor tiles in between.

After a trade depot is built, you can use {{K|D}} to check wagon accessibility. The decisive element is that you see the 'depot accessible' message on the right. Accessibility is calculated from your depot, not the edge of the map. Even though you see a green area around your depot, it may not be accessible. You need to make sure the path extends all the way to some edge of the map. The display is somewhat misleading in that a one tile wide green path is sufficient for the 3 tile wide wagons; the green {{Raw Tile|W|{{COLOR:2:0:1}}|{{COLOR:2:0:0}}}}s represent only the ''center'' of a wagon although the whole 3x3 can fit around it - so a three-tile wide path, which can fit a wagon, will only show up as one-tile wide line of {{Raw Tile|W|{{COLOR:2:0:1}}|{{COLOR:2:0:0}}}}s. When the route they would take goes over hills (ramps), it's hard to eye whether it is continuous all the way to the edge of the map, so be sure you see the words "depot accessible" on the depot access screen.

As long as you have a three-tile wide path to the depot that reaches ''any'' edge of the map, wagons will be able to reach the depot. If there is only one path they can take, they will take that path. You can force them to enter and exit the map in an exact spot -- preferably very near your depot -- by erecting walls or digging channels so that all paths but the one you want them to take are blocked.

=== Liaisons ===
[[Liaison]]s may be sent with caravans to speak to important dwarves. They will allow you to choose the type of items that your fortress is interested in, and will focus on bringing more of that kind of item on the next caravan (however those items will also be more expensive). They will also present you with a list of the items they're willing to pay more for, which will be effective upon their next arrival.

Trade agreements can be viewed at a later time through the Civilization menu ({{k|c}}). These trade agreements are cleared when a liason of the corresponding civilization enters the screen, so they are generally not accessible after the caravan has arrived.

Note that if a liaison is prevented from leaving, they will eventually go [[insane]].

=== Races ===
The following races send caravans.

==== [[Dwarves]] ====
The dwarven caravan:
* arrives in [[Calendar|autumn]].
* employs wagons to bring more goods.
* typically carries [[food]], [[alcohol|booze]], [[leather]] and more. Dwarves alone may carry [[steel]] and steel goods.
* tends to be well guarded.
* sends a liaison who will speak with the [[Expedition leader]] (or [[Mayor]]) to negotiate prices.
* is responsible for the number of immigrants received (when the caravan escapes alive).
* will not cause sieges when repeatedly destroyed or lost.
* is the only caravan to arrive during a fortress' first year.
* always arrives regardless of embark location.
* cannot have its goods seized from the trade menu.

==== [[elf|Elves]] ====
[[Image:Evil_elves.png|thumb|400px|A typical elven caravan.]]

The elven caravan:
* arrives in [[Calendar|spring]].
* does not send wagons.
* typically carries [[cloth]], [[Restraint|rope]], various above ground [[plants]] and their byproducts, [[log]]s, [[wood]]en [[craft]]s & [[weapon]]s, large-sized clothing and [[armor]], and may carry tame [[creatures]] (may arrive dead; a freezing biome, either at your fort or during travel, is suspected to be the cause).
* carries more wood logs the smaller a fort's wood stockpile.
* tends to be unguarded.
* does not accept some items in trade:

Elven traders do not like to be offered any tree byproducts. Forbidden items include{{ver|0.28.181.40d}}:

* [[Wood]]en items, and items derived from wood (including [[tower-cap]] logs), such as [[charcoal]] and [[pearlash]]
* All [[glass]]; formerly believed to be confined to clear and crystal glass (because [[pearlash]] is used in their creation) but also includes green glass from a magma glass furnace.
* Items [[decoration|decorated]] with any of the above materials
* [[Obsidian]] shortswords (since they have wooden handles)
* [[Soap]] (made with [[ash]])

Offering or trading forbidden items will cause the mood of the trader to drop rapidly, quickly (possible after first offer) causing him to refuse to trade any more that season and leave immediately. Additionally you will be called uncouth, crude, and barbaric for suggesting it. Tragic incidence can befall name callers which if repeated can lead to [[siege|interesting times]] and even great [[fun]]!

However, [[stone]] and [[metal]] items, even when [[charcoal]] is used in production, are acceptable. Items made from [[silk]] are acceptable, as are all non-wooden plant-derived products such as [[cloth]] and [[thread]]. Different from previous versions, items made of bone and shell are acceptable. You can also transport your goods to the [[trade depot]] in a wooden [[bin]], as long as you do not try to sell the bin. Living animals are acceptable, as long as the [[cage]] or [[trap]] is not made of [[wood]].

Be especially careful with reselling items from other caravans, as decorated items made out of a non-living material may include decorative materials that were made of living materials. All items that elven caravans sell are also unacceptable to sell back to elves, as the dwarves have no means of proving that they were made in an "elf kosher" way — and all dwarves know that elves have terrible memory.

==== [[Human]]s ====
The human caravan:
* arrives in [[Calendar|summer]].
* employs wagons to bring more goods.
* typically carries a very large quantity and variety of goods.
* tends to be moderately guarded.
* sends a liaison who will speak with the broker to negotiate prices.

==== [[Goblin]]s ====
A goblin caravan may arrive if your civilization is at peace with the goblins.

The goblin caravan:
*does not send wagons
*tends to be unguarded
*brings mostly food and cloth
*does not send a liaison or a guild representative
*does not make import/export agreements

=== Destruction ===
If caravans are destroyed (intentionally or unintentionally), the items may remain for use. Traders caught in a [[cave-in]] will flee as if they were attacked but will leave all the items dropped by the caravan behind. Pack animals carrying items are affected just like a normal tamed [[mule]] and must be killed in the cave-in for them to drop items on the ground. It is however much more likely that the pack animal(s) will only be stunned or rendered unconscious and flee shortly after recovering from the hit. Wagons will collapse if caught in a cave-in, leaving all that it was carrying on the ground as a result. Wagons can also be destroyed by [[ocean]] waves coming up onto the shore if you have settled in the appropriate area. The only difference between collapsing under waves or a cave-in is a higher probably of recovering items if the wagon is destroyed by a wave.

While caravans can defend themselves, they don't like being ambushed. An encounter with unfriendly creatures may cause them to retreat and forget about trading with you for the season. Repeated caravan destruction (intentional or unintentional) will strain diplomatic relations and may result in a [[siege]].

=== Caravan Delay ===
If a caravan has arrived at your trade depot and is unable to leave, the merchants and animals will soon go insane. This can result in a bunch of merchants attacking your dwarves, or just standing around moping until they starve to death. It is not known if this hurts diplomatic relations.

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-08-23T09:15:01Z

Deandet:

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a singe weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It might also be a good idea to use a point or two for swiming, otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. You will see the Mayor (purple) as well as the occational townsperson. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the major and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but baring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way. Beware, you won't be able to swim if you are hungry, thirsty or if you haven't slept for a day or two. If you get drowsy, just find a bed in a city or just find a good place to sleep. Avoid sleeping in an hostile place, if you don't want to have a bit too much fun.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]]
=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - food, weapons, clothing, and two kinds of trinkets (incidentally, armor and clothing is sold in the same building). As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one 1-tale wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

=== Combat ===
== The Weapons ==
Weapons are basically divided into ax, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle ax, great ax and halberd. The battle ax does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great ax is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

== Weapon Tactics ==
Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.

Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.

Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).

Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.

Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.

Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

== Non-weapon tactics ==

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be preformed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

=== Wounds ===
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

== Wound indicators ==
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is effecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career.

== Wound effects ==
Hands-damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to fun in the future.

Feet-Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs-similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms- Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head-Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. Its usually not possible to bleed to death from the loss of the eyes though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body. Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine and liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects, namely heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which make the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine which has similar effects to the upper spine.

== Attack types and their wounds ==
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

== Dealing with wounds ==
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possiblity is to asked your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big and they should be pretty capible since you trained them.

==== The Perils of the Wild ====

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Heres a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.

Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block still is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.

Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.

Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.

Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win

Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.

Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.

Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.

Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.

Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.

Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.

Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.

Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.

Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.

Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.

Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.

Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.

Frogman: No not those things Race Banon was always killing, but half man half frogs that live in underground water. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.

Iron man: Millionaire Tony Stark puts on his…oops wrong one. Ironmen are like firemen but less dangerous because they aren’t on fire. They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue. They appear only in chasms.

Leechman: Half man, Half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.

Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.

Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.

Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway.

Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.

Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.

Orge: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.

Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Golum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely. (personal note: Olms are pretty damn awesome things (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olm) they’re even on the money in one country.)

Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.

Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.

Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.

Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.

Troglodyte: Small, reptilian creatures that live underground. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.

Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an orge. Kill them both the same way.

Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.

Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.

Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.

Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.

Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTILATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.

Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you? Fucking Nazi.

Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.

Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.

Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.

Dog: WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?

Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.

Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.

Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary

Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see. If you do however, its proper to light them on fire and scream “YIFF IN HELL”.

Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.

Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.

Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.

Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.

Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.

Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)

Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rouge and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.

Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.

Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats. (On a personal note, I once found a goat named Bonecrusher or something like that, which only had one leg. One leg and 7 kills, including a Swordmaster. Don’t fuck with that goat)

Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.

Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.

Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.

Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.

Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.

Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.

Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.

Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine.

=== Modifiers ===
Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer effected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong.

Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.
[size=3]

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

Metal bolts are quite heavy and expensive, so if you wish to train in this skill it would probably be a good idea to raid an old fortress of yours first and get all the wooden/bone bolts there.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Exploration ===

== Basic exploration tips ==
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that allusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

== Fortress exploration tips. ==
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed there’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too greedily and too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.

= The advantages of Fortress exploration =
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

= Preparation =
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep raped your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

= Plumbing the Deep =

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

= What to do with all your newly acquired wealth =

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Powder

2009-08-23T08:56:43Z

Deandet:

'''Powder''' is any object stored in [[Container#Barrels.2C_bins_and_bags|bags]] that is not a [[Plants|plant]] or a [[seed]]. This category includes [[flour]], [[dye]], [[sugar]] and [[sand]]. Powders are typically produced at a [[mill]]. Dwarves and humans will occasionally request powders, and you can do the same (sand is the one exception ; because of that you can't have glass in a sandless map, so [[chasm|find a way to wipe out the noble who asked for that glass window]]).

{{Expand Topic}}
[[Category:Materials]]

40d:Grassland

2009-08-23T08:53:13Z

Deandet:

'''Grassland''' is a [[biome]] that usually contains lots of grass (obviously) and few [[tree|trees]]. It also receives very small amounts of [[rain]] (just slightly more than [[desert|deserts]]). There are both [[temperate]] and [[tropical]] grasslands. Humans have a very high chance to settle in that biome.

{{Expand Topic}}

{{World}}

[[Category:Biomes]]
[[Category:World]]

40d:Undead

2009-08-23T08:46:42Z

Deandet:

All [[animal]]s can be encountered in skeletal or zombie varieties when visiting a [[haunted]], [[sinister]] or [[terrifying]] [[biome]]. The type of '''undead''' animal is the same as the animals which would be found in a normal biome of the same type, and they are encountered in the same size groups. As of .39c, both [[megabeast]]s and [[semi-megabeast]]s can also be undead.

Undead are highly aggressive and will attack and chase any living creature that approaches them. Zombie animals move slowly, so [[dwarves]] can usually outrun them. Skeletal animals, however, are both strong and extremely fast, making them very dangerous.

[[Image:Undead_Fish.png|frame|Undead fish traversing dry land to attack an adventurer.]]

Undead creatures do not need to breathe, and all can swim in [[water]] and walk on land, including normally aquatic creatures such as sharks, [[whale]]s, and even [[carp|the most terrifying fish ever]]. While this is only a minor nuisance most of the time, groups of undead [[carp|kings of fishes]] can pose a serious threat to even a well trained squad. The average dwarf can easily run away from zombie carp, but skeletal carp are a vile force of darkness which should be feared by anyone who confronts them.

All undead gain the [[BUILDINGDESTROYER]] tag at value 1, allowing them to deconstruct doors, hatches, statues and such.

Zombies start with brown and grey [[wound]]s to several of their organs; skeletons start with grey (missing) wound status on all their organs. Both types appear to be immune to critical hits against organs, making crits with [[Weapon#Damage_calculation|piercing]] weapons meaningless, although they can still be dismembered by an axe or knocked across the screen with a hammer.

When defeated, a zombie leaves a rotten [[corpse]] which should be disposed of to avoid [[miasma]]. It will eventually rot completely to leave a pile of [[bone]]s. Skeletal creatures leave a [[skull]] and [[bone]]s, which can be used immediately by a [[bone carver]]. (Good gift idea : a carp skull totem !)

Undead [[trees]] show on the map as {{DFtext|Dead Highwood}}, but an undead {{DFtext|Dead Highwood Sapling}} will still mature into a full grown tree. After cutting down, the [[log]]s are indistinguishable from those cut from a living tree. Undead [[shrub]]s and grass are useless, though these tainted lands contain a mix of living and dead plants.

Beware undead [[giant eagle]]s, as [[bolt]]s have little effect upon them, and [[dwarves]] have trouble attacking them in melee. If you find skeletal whales or other exceptionally large creatures... run and lock your fort down.
{{Creatures}}

[[Category:Creatures]]

40d:Tame

2009-08-18T13:13:04Z

Deandet:

'''Tame''' is a designation given to [[animals]]. Tame animals will not attack dwarves (except if they tasted dwarf blood in the past ; in that case they will stay dangerous even if they are tamed), and can be taken as [[pet]]s. Tame animals can only be [[butcher's shop|butchered]] if they are slaughtered; if they die by any other means, their [[corpse]]s (and [[bone]]s and [[skull]]s) can never be processed into food or goods.

Taming a [[wild]] animal requires a [[kennel]], and uses the [[animal trainer]] skill. Tame [[dog]]s can be further trained into [[war dog]]s.
{{Expand Topic}}

==Value==

These are the prices you pay when you trade for caged tame animals and the amounts dwarfs have to spend to claim [[Pet|pets]] after the dwarven economy has started. An animal's [[Item value|value]] as a pet is independant of its [[Animal material multiplier|material multiplier]].

{| class="wikitable" border=1
|-
! Pet value
! Pet name
|-
|10000||[[Dragon]], [[Hydra]]
|-
|2500||[[Giant cave spider]], [[Giant desert scorpion]]
|-
|1000||[[Basking shark]], [[Whale]], [[Whale shark]]
|-
|750||[[Cave crocodile]], [[Giant bat]], [[Giant olm]], [[Giant toad]], [[Polar bear]]
|-
|700||[[Giant cave swallow]], [[Giant eagle]], [[Saltwater crocodile]]
|-
|650||[[Alligator]]
|-
|500||[[Bilou]], [[Black-crested gibbon]], [[Black-handed gibbon]], [[Bonobo]], [[Bull shark]], [[Chimpanzee]], [[Elephant]], [[Frill shark]], [[Giant rat]], [[Gorilla]], [[Gray gibbon]], [[Great white shark]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Hammerhead shark]], [[Longfin mako shark]], [[Manta ray]], [[Marlin]], [[Ocean sunfish]], [[One-humped camel]], [[Orangutan]], [[Pileated gibbon]], [[Shortfin mako shark]], [[Siamang]], [[Silvery gibbon]], [[Swordfish]], [[Tiger shark]], [[Two-humped camel]], [[White-browed gibbon]], [[White-handed gibbon]]
|-
|400||[[Blue shark]], [[Conger eel]], [[Hippo]], [[Walrus]]
|-
|350||[[Naked mole dog]], [[Giant mole]]
|-
|300||[[Black bear]], [[Cow]], [[Muskox]], [[Nurse shark]], [[Sturgeon]]
|-
|250||[[Large rat]]
|-
|200||[[Angelshark]], [[Blacktip reef shark]], [[Bluefin tuna]], [[Bluefish]], [[Cheetah]], [[Cod]], [[Coelacanth]], [[Common skate]], [[Donkey]], [[Giant cheetah]], [[Giant grouper]], [[Giant lion]], [[Giant tiger]], [[Great barracuda]], [[Halibut]], [[Horse]], [[Lion]], [[Longnose gar]], [[Mule]], [[Opah]], [[Pike (fish)|Pike]], [[Sea lamprey]], [[Spiny dogfish]], [[Spotted wobbegong]], [[Stingray]], [[Tiger]], [[Tigerfish]], [[Whitetip reef shark]]
|-
|100||[[Cougar]], [[Elk]], [[Fox squirrel]], [[Giant jaguar]], [[Giant leopard]], [[Jaguar]], [[Knuckle worm]], [[Leopard]], [[Warthog]]
|-
|50||[[Carp]], [[Deer]], [[Gazelle]], [[Groundhog]], [[Hoary marmot]], [[Mandrill]], [[Milkfish]], [[Mountain goat]], [[Rhesus macaque]], [[Wolf]]
|-
|30||[[Bat]], [[Blue jay]], [[Cardinal]], [[Cat]], [[Cave swallow]], [[Dog]], [[Grackle]], [[Oriole]], [[Red-winged blackbird]]
|-
|25||[[Fox]], [[Raccoon]]
|-
|20||[[Demon rat]], [[Fluffy wambler]], [[Moghopper]], [[Two-legged rhino lizard]]
|-
|10||[[Chipmunk]], [[Gray squirrel]], [[Hedgehog]], [[Lizard]], [[Rat]], [[Red squirrel]], [[Toad]], [[Turtle]]
|-
|5||[[Large roach]]
|-
|1||[[Cave spider]], [[Fire snake]], [[Gremlin]], [[Olm]], [[Phantom spider]], [[Purring maggot]]
|}

==See Also==
* [[Item value]]
* [[Animal material multiplier]]

40d:Easter eggs

2009-08-16T08:51:05Z

Deandet:

:''Hidden Fun Stuff redirects here. It can also refer to... well, [[glowing pit|do you really want us to spoil it for you]]?'' It is also used in the [[dev logs]] to refer to anything Toady doesn't want us to know about until we find it ourselves.

This page is a list of hidden or unexpected aspects of the game.

=== Fluctuating Subtitle ===
When [[Your first fortress|starting up the game]], on the title screen where the player first chooses what to do, the top reads:
Slaves to Armok: God of Blood
Chapter 2: Dwarf Fortress
Histories of ...
'...' will be generated each time the game is opened. Some combinations include "Histories of Avarice and Resourcefulness" and "Histories of Jealousy and Tenacity." Generally, the words will include a synonym each of "greed" and "stubbornness", which as we all know fit the hairy little blighters like a [[Cave spider silk]] [[Clothing#Articles|glove]].

=== Dwarven Daydreams ===

Some dwarves like Toads for their beauty, an obvious inside reference to [[Toady One]].

=== So What If I'm Dead? ===

Checking the [[weather]], temperature, or [[Calendar|date]] in [[Adventure Mode]] after dying will instead return a snarky message reminding you of your current medical state.

=== Bey@nd Quality?! ===

For about one frame, the word "Beyond" in the Bay 12 Games Beyond Quality intro turns into "Bey@nd". Nobody knows why.

=== Oink! ===

In the Bay 12 Games Beyond Quality intro, when the program is saying "Quality", grab the title bar and drag it around a bit. Release, and when the lines appear, you'll hear a pig sound.

=== Help Screen ===

If you press the ? on the help screen you will go to the help screen of the help screen, now press it twice more :-)

=== Intro Movie ===

No, the intro movie isn't lots of scenes that show what can be done in a fortress. If you look at every detail, you'll realise that it's an HFS in an HFS in an HFS...or something like that. At least it looks like a spoiler. (look for clues in each scene !)

{{Expand Topic}}

40d:Adamantine

2009-07-28T18:40:35Z

Deandet:

{{minorspoiler}}
{{Metal|color=#0FF|bgcolor=#0CC|name=Adamantine|
|ore=
* [[Raw adamantine]]
|properties=
* [[Damage]]% 500
* [[Armor|Block]]% 500
* [[Material value]] 300
|uses=
* [[Weapon|Melee Weapons]]
* [[Crossbow]]s
* [[Bolt]]s
* [[Pick]]s
* [[Armor]]
* [[Anvil]]s
* [[Metalsmith's forge|Metal crafting]]
* [[Clothing]]
}}

'''Adamantine''' is by far the most rare and valuable [[metal]] in the game. It can only be found in mountainous areas, and only in small amounts. Care should be taken if it is found, since digging down several levels through it will lead you to a dangerous place([[Glowing pit|spoiler]]), which can wipe out even a mature, heavily defended fortress.

Discovery of adamantine will also bring the attention of the [[King]], who will immigrate to your fortress once news of your discovery reaches him. If you have not otherwise met the criteria for attracting the King, he will arrive "disguised as a peasant." His requirements appear to be the same in any case, so be prepared!

== Location ==

To start in a location which has adamantine you must start on a mountain tile ({{Raw Tile|∆|#FFFFFF|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|∆|#808080|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|▲|#FFFFFF|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|▲|#C0C0C0|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|▲|#808080|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|▲|#00FFFF|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|^|#FFFFFF|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|^|#808080|#000000}},{{Raw Tile|^|#00FFFF|#000000}}) or volcano tile ({{Raw Tile|^|#FF0000|#000000}}) in the Region map. The adamantine will be located somewhere within the Local map of that region. It is more likely to be found on a Local map square which also shows as mountain. The adamantine will occupy only one Local square, though the [[Glowing pit|fun stuff]] may extend beyond it.

Deposits are not visible on the Region/World maps or the Local maps by default, but can be turned visible by setting SHOW_EMBARK_OTHER to ALWAYS in init.txt, in which case they appear as {{tile|£|#0FF}} on the local embark map.

==Veining==
Curiously, adamantine veins tend to span z-levels more than the xy planes. Finding a short section of adamantine only 2x1 or 3x1, dig up or down a z-level and you'll probably find another short section.
To view examples of this phenomenon, check out the [http://mkv25.net/dfma/poi-2837-addyveinstotallyz-spanning DFMA Point of Interest] and [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-290-z-leveladamantinevein a movie] recording the layout of a vein.

== Processing ==

Adamantine strands are extracted from [[raw adamantine]] at a [[craftsdwarf's workshop]]. The [[strand extraction]] labor must be enabled for a dwarf to perform the extraction. The process is extremely slow for an unskilled laborer. Adamantine strands are worth 1800☼ each, while the raw adamantine is worth 750. 1 ore => 1 strand => 1 wafer.

Subsequent processing of the strands requires no adamantine-specific skills or labor permissions. Adamantine strands are processed into adamantine wafers at any [[smelter]]. Adamantine wafers are worth 1500☼ each - curiously, less than the strands they are smelted from. Adamantine wafers are treated much like [[bar]]s of other metal, and can be forged into a variety of useful items. Adamantine strands may also be woven into cloth using the Weave Metal Cloth task in a [[loom]]. Adamantine strands may be dyed, but if they are melted into wafers they will return to their normal color and value.

Forging things out of adamantine requires a number of wafers equal to item's MATERIAL_SIZE. This is usually about three times as many as are needed for constructions with bars of other metals, since one metal bar counts for 3 MATERIAL_SIZE. For instance, plate mail has [MATERIAL_SIZE:9] and normally requires three metal bars to forge; adamantine plate mail requires nine adamantine wafers. Helm has [MATERIAL_SIZE:2] and normally requires one metal bar to forge; adamantine helm requires two adamantine wafers. Large furniture takes 9 full wafers and small furniture (buckets, chains) takes 3 full wafers (compare to 3 bars and 1 bar respectively for other metals). Miscellaneous craft items are only 1 wafer, and you still get a full set of 3 goblets. This makes goblets far and away the best option if you want to maximize your adamantine wealth, even moreso than in other materials.

Note that if you try to melt down adamantine objects, you recover wafers at the same rate that you would normally recover bars, so trying to melt down lower-quality adamantine items to reforge them gets prohibitively expensive in a hurry - adamantine plate mail takes 9 wafers to forge and yields slightly less than a single wafer when melted for scrap.

==Uses==
Adamantine is so valuable that a special message pops up when you discover a vein of it.

[[Image:000006 - Praise the miners!.png||500px]]

Raw adamantine may also be processed into [[stone]] goods in the same way as other economic stone. In its raw form, it has a [[Item value|value multiplier]] of x250 (as opposed to adamantine metal, which is x300). Raw adamantine blocks are worth 1250☼.

Adamantine items are incredibly light: they weigh about 2.5% as much as an equivalent article crafted from iron. [[Weapon]]s and [[armor]] made from adamantine are 5 times stronger than equivalent [[iron]] objects.

Adamantine is one of the few [[magma-safe]] materials. Raw adamantine is the only [[stone]], aside from [[bauxite]], that can be used to make magma-safe [[mechanism]]s. (To do this, you must lift the [[economic stone|restrictions]] on its use via the Stone submenu of the [[status]] screen.) Mechanisms can also be made from a single{{verify}} adamantine wafer at a [[forge]] or [[magma forge]], under "trap components" -- this cannot be done with any other metal.

==Storage==
Raw Adamantine is stored in stone stockpiles with "Raw Adamantine" enabled in that stockpile's 'other stone' category.

However once strands are extracted, they are stored in a cloth pile. It is unfortunately impossible to directly segregate adamantine from plant fiber and silk cloth, because all cloth apparently counts as non-plant/animal products as far as the game is concerned, and adamantine does not appear as a thread/cloth type in the cloth custom stockpile menu. To create a stockpile for adamantine strands designate a cloth stockpile set to accept no types of thread or cloth and tell this stockpile to take from all other cloth stockpiles.

Wafers are stored in bar/block piles with adamantine enabled. All other goods can be stored in any stockpile with the adamantine metal enabled.

[[Category:Metals]]
[[Category:Economic Stone]]
[[Category:Spoilers]]

40d:Raw adamantine

2009-07-28T18:36:07Z

Deandet:

{{minorspoiler}}
{{Ore|name=Raw Adamantine|tile=£|color=#0FF
|uses =
* [[Ore]] of [[adamantine]]
|location =
* The depths
|properties =
* [[Magma proof]]
* [[Material value]] 250
|wiki = no}}

The ore of [[adamantine]] is highly valuable. Its discovery is both a boon and a bane; it has a massive [[value]] even unrefined, and gives a large number of bonuses to armor and weapons that are made from it when processed. The downside is that digging too deeply will trigger a certain [[Glowing pit|spoiler]], among other things, and the fact that it only appears in relatively small quantities.

Its high melting point means you can easily use it to build magma-safe mechanisms and floodgates, but this is not recommended due to its scarcity.

Finding this material will cause a notification, and for [[King|the King]] to appear later on. If you haven't met his requirements, he will appear dressed as a peasant. It is assumed that his requirements are the same in either case.

You always get a piece of raw adamantine when you mine it out, no matter how skilled the miner is.

{{Rocks}}
[[Category:Ore]]
[[Category:Stone]]

40d:Giant cave spider

2009-07-28T18:26:47Z

Deandet:

{{CreatureInfo|name=Giant Cave Spider|symbol=S|color=rgb(192, 192, 192)|bones=0|chunks=10|meat=10|fat=1|skulls=0|skin=Yes|biome=Subterrenean chasm|wiki=no}}
[[Image:Giantwebedited.png|right|thumb|100px|Web in the open]]
[[Image:GiantSpiderAttack.png|right|thumb|100px|Web inside a pit]]

These eight-legged beasts are not your ordinary harmless [[cave spider]] (those were just treats for your [[cat]]). '''Giant cave spiders''' are bigger than [[horse]]s and will make treats ''of'' cats, other [[dwarf]] [[pet]]s and the average careless adventurer. It would be rather easy to know when a giant spider roams in the area, for they usually build a huge spider web, sometime spanning several screens wide (pictures to the right), except these webs (as well as the spider) are not actually visible until a hapless creature becomes ensnared in one (at least in Fortress Mode).

Unlike most monsters in the world, giant spiders rely on more than just brute force. Using sticky web projectiles, paralyzing [[venom]] and powerful jaws, the giant cave spider has multiple methods of incapacitating its prey before going in for the kill. They do not feel pain or remorse or fear and cannot be stopped unless killed. For this reason, it's suggested that you engage them at a distance, bring plenty of [[Drunk|drunks]] to distract it in adventure mode or simply try to overwhelm it with a high number of attackers. Cases of non-legendary adventurers fighting giant cave spiders at close combat and winning the fight without substaining major injuries have been reported, but it seems to be very rare.

Most giant spiders build their web over cliffs of some sort so caution should be taken against dwarves or the spider itself falling down to their death or into a big [[chasm]].

When a dwarf comes into contact with a giant cave spider web, he becomes stuck and unable to move (effectively paralyzed) for a given amount of time, after the duration of which he becomes unstuck and is free to move again.

If you manage to collect a giant cave spider's webbing and use it to produce [[silk]], the resulting thread is worth ten times the value of [[cave spider]] silk, making it far more valuable than any other in the game.

{{Game_Data|[CREATURE:SPIDER_CAVE_GIANT]
[NAME:giant cave spider:giant cave spiders:giant cave spider]
[TILE:'S'][COLOR:7:0:0]
[MODVALUE:10]
[LARGE_ROAMING][FREQUENCY:20][DIFFICULTY:3]
[EXTRACT:giant cave spider venom:7:0:0]
[EXTRACT_VALUE:100]
[EXTRACT_PARALYZE][NATURAL][PET_EXOTIC]
[EXTRACT_ANTIDOTE:giant cave spider antivenin:7:0:0:100]
[WEBBER][THICKWEB][WEBIMMUNE][AMBUSHPREDATOR][PARALYZEIMMUNE]
[LARGE_PREDATOR]
[GENPOWER:4]
[BLOODTYPE:W][CHITIN]
[PETVALUE:2500]
[GRASSTRAMPLE:10]
[CARNIVORE]
[NOPAIN][EXTRAVISION][NOSTUN][NOEMOTION][NOSKULL][NOBONES]
[BUILDINGDESTROYER:1]
[NOFEAR]
[PREFSTRING:mystery]
[BODY:SPIDER:2EYES:HEART:GUTS:BRAIN:MOUTH]
[SIZE:10]
[MAXAGE:20:30]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:MOUTH:bite:bites:1:6:GORE][ATTACKFLAG_CANLATCH][SPECIALATTACK_INJECT_EXTRACT:50:100]
[FAT:1]
[NO_SLEEP]
[ALL_ACTIVE]
[POPULATION_NUMBER:15:30]
[BIOME_SUBTERRANEAN_CHASM]
[HOMEOTHERM:10040]
[STANDARD_FLESH]
}}
{{Creatures}}
[[Category:Animals]]
[[Category:Venom]]

40d:Hydra

2009-07-28T18:18:35Z

Deandet:

{{CreatureInfo|name=Hydra|symbol=H|color=rgb(0, 128, 0)|
bones=20|chunks=20|meat=20|fat=10|skulls=1|skin=Yes|biome=* Any land}}

A '''Hydra''' is a [[megabeast]] with seven necks, seven heads, seven mouths, and one skull.

Strangely, the first head that you lopped off or destroyed is the one that will kill the hydra when it's destroyed or lopped off.
{{v|0.27.169.33g}} (In the greek mythology, the hydra's heads that were cut off grown back immediatly, but if a particular head was cut off, the hydra would die)

{{Game_Data|[CREATURE:HYDRA]
[NAME:hydra:hydras:hydra]
[TILE:'H'][COLOR:2:0:0]
[MODVALUE:50]
[FANCIFUL]
[MEGABEAST]
[GENPOWER:5]
[FREQUENCY:5]
[PETVALUE:10000]
[GRASSTRAMPLE:50]
[BONECARN][PET_EXOTIC]
[BUILDINGDESTROYER:2]
[NOFEAR]
[LIKES_FIGHTING]
[PREFSTRING:seven heads]
[BODY:BASIC_2PARTBODY:7HEADNECKS:BASIC_FRONTLEGS:BASIC_REARLEGS:TAIL:2EYES:NOSE:2LUNGS:HEART:GUTS:ORGANS:THROAT:NECK:SPINE:BRAIN:MOUTH]
[BODYGLOSS:CLAW_FOOT]
[SIZE:20]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:MOUTH:bite:bites:1:6:GORE][ATTACKFLAG_CANLATCH]
[FAT:10]
[ALL_ACTIVE]
[BIOME_ANY_LAND]
[STANDARD_FLESH]
[SWIMS_INNATE][SWIM_SPEED:2500]
[HOMEOTHERM:10040]
}}
{{Creatures}}
[[Category:Megabeasts]]