Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

v0.31:Adventurer mode

2011-06-14T10:47:49Z

Eepkeep: Fixing up an ambiguous statement

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the {{L|Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide}}.
:''See {{L|Adventure Mode quick reference}} to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ({{L|dwarf}}, {{L|human}}, or {{L|elf}}) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive {{L|quest}}s, venture into the wilderness to find {{L|cave}}s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other {{L|Site|towns and settlements}}. You can even visit your abandoned {{L|fortress}}es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the {{L|creature}}s that sealed their fate.

Unlike {{L|fortress mode}}, adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the {{L|Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER}} token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version 0.31.25 only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the {{L|Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER}} token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means {{L|Dwarves}}, {{L|Elves}}, and {{L|Human|Humans}}. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the {{L|Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE}} token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a {{L|Martial trance|martial trance}} when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

{{L|Attribute|Attributes}} are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. It isn't clear how useful this currently is in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless.

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''Creativity''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''Patience''' - Currently useless.
*'''Memory''' - Appears to be useless.
*'''Linguistic Ability''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills. (much like the players *ba dum tish*)
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''Musicality''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting {{L|skill}}s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see {{L|Combat skill}}. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''{{L|Observer}}''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''{{L|Swimmer}}''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''{{L|Ambusher}}''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

There is also Butchering, but you can't allocate points to that at creation time.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

You will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the {{L|Map legend}} for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers. If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.

After acquiring {{L|armor}} from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See {{L|Armor}} for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as {{L|Weapon}}s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your {{L|backpack}} - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change {{L|weapon}}s or {{L|shield}}s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the {{L|Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield}} with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.)('''NOTE''': You can disable boogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

'''Note:''' As of 31.17, the need to eat and drink has been removed pending further changes.

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (a vulture, say, or a racoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

{{L|Combat}} is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an aimed attack. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. Don't be afraid to try Trickier attacks, especially against easier enemies. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Depending on the situation, it may be worth trying to take even a "Difficult" shot at the head. Severing limbs can also be effective even if not fatal, so if you have any Easy and Square attacks against limbs it may be worth taking them because, if a limb is chopped off, it will stun the opponent possibly making a followup shot to the head much easier. Removing a weapon arm can leave an opponent with no offensive ability, and removing a leg or foot can make it very difficult for them to escape or chase after you.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: {{L|Wrestling}}''

'''{{L|Wrestling}}''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see {{L|Wrestling}}.

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

{{L|Weapon}}s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}}

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|Shift}}+{{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting at really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Report success/accomplishments''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' As of version .25, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in {{L|Fortress mode}}!

Goblins live in {{L|obsidian}} towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find {{L|building|shops}}. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for all of the shop's money (will be 9000☼ if you have not yet bought from or sold to that shop)
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer all of your money

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. One turn after the trade session ends, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.''' Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's {{l|Butchery}} by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to crawl between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
As of version 0.31.17, quest monsters no longer live in caves, so you can't find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best defense is a good offense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[DF2010:Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Novice in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. The only apparent way to train this skill currently appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately (as of .25) there's currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

As of version .25 you can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

As of version 31.25, in unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals.... You either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

=Version Changes=

==Changes from 40d==

Fast-travel, {{k|shift}}+{{k|t}} to enter, and {{k|shift}}+{{k|.}} (Pretend you are making the '>' downstairs symbol) to exit, no longer heals all of your wounds instantly, nor can fast-travel be used when bleeding out. Some wounds do heal over time.

Cave systems are accessible to adventurers but you are virtually guaranteed to get lost exploring them - even if you find your way back to the general vicinity of the entrance, you cannot fast-{{K|T}}ravel away until you are outside. If you can make your way underneath a Human village, however, you may be able to Travel directly to the surface.

Material changes are extremely noticeable in adventure mode. Elves with wood are noticeably weaker, and throwing/ranged weapons somewhat reduced in effectiveness.

As of the current release, adventurers start out more powerful than they had in 40d, with certain builds(use all skill points) granting super-----ly tough/strong/agile at start.

"Stuck-in" weapons no longer are endlessly twisted in the wound until the creature bleeds to death, or the weapon is yanked out. There is now a roll to see who controls the stuck-in weapon on the turn following the "stuck-in" attack.

Human towns have only bronze weapons and armor, and large clothing.

Swimming, sneaking, fighting, etc. seem to improve the associated skills only. Attributes (strength, etc.) remain the same even after a long and active period of adventuring.

Combat is much more forgiving than in 40d. Bolts and arrows are less deadly, because they can be blocked with a shield. Armor protects you much better versus bolts and arrows -- when wearing plate, it's rare for one to get through. Don't assume you're arrow proof, but you can take a bit more punishment now. {{verify}} Also, no metal armor can protect one's throat. {{verify}}

Based on what civilizations are allied with humans you may be able to play Kobolds or Goblins, but only random names can be used.

== Changes in 0.31.17 ==
When generating an adventurer you now have points to assign to {{L|attribute}}s as well as to skills. You can reduce unwanted attributes down to 1 to get more points for other attributes.

The travel-mode map is now more zoomed-in than before. To see a fully zoomed-out map during travel mode, press {{key|m}}, and one will appear at the right.

The bar at the top of the travel-mode screen shows the position of the sun, giving you an easy indication of how much daylight is left.

You become sleepy during travel mode. You can choose to sleep or wait for a specific time using (by default) {{k|shift}}+{{k|Z}}. If you sleep outside during the night you can be ambushed by bogeymen or a myriad of other night monsters. Sleeping inside a building (including the temples and lairs of vanquished monsters) will protect you from this. Ambushes will also not be initiated when you are staying on a beach or mountain, but ones that have already started will continue even if you enter such an area.

There are now hamlets (Æ and æ) and castles (○) in addition to towns (+) (NOTE: those symbols are how they appear in the world map (fully zoomed-out)). When in a town or hamlet clusters of buildings will be marked as ■ in the mini-map in the lower-left hand corner. Only towns have shops, which appear as yellow ■ in both the travel map and the mini-map.

You can get quests from any person in a town/hamlet, and from any soldier in a castle after you've gained enough reputation from completing a few quests. Quests to kill titans, dragons and hydras you can only get from leaders found in castles, and only after you've gained a lot of reputation.

The ability to recruit soldiers now depends on reputation from completing quests, rather than how skilled you are compared to them.

Worlds generated before {{l|Release information/0.31.09|version 0.31.09}} cannot perform knapping in Adventure Mode, and new worlds must be generated if custom adventurer reactions are added.

=See Also=
*[[Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[DF2010:Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.31 Talk:Bogeyman

2011-02-28T13:14:25Z

Eepkeep: On the origin of the creepies

"The only way to stop their attacks is by running through a critical distance somewhere near a town/hamlet,"
:I ran through one, didn't ward them off. Also, you can enter a lair(where whatever lives inside it is dead) to escape from them, such as you would a building(Just thought I'd point that out.)
:Also brings me to the next point that sleeping inside of a cleared lair can keep your safe from bogeymen. --[[User:ANormalUsername1|ANormalUsername]] 23:43, 3 February 2011 (UTC)

Anyone else notice that bogeymen don't attack you in badlands or deserts etc. ? --[[User:Eepkeep|Eepkeep]] 13:14, 28 February 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Dwarf fortress mode

2011-02-26T08:39:41Z

Eepkeep:

{{quality|Exceptional|05:10, 12 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

'''Fortress mode''': where the game gets its name! This option is available from the main menu after creating a world. In fortress mode, you pick a {{L|location|location}}, then assign your seven initial {{L|dwarves}} some starting {{L|skills}}, equipment, provisions, and {{L|animals}} to bring along. After preparations are complete and your hardy explorers {{L|embark}}, they'll be faced with the fortress site you picked down to every detail, from geologically appropriate stone types to roaring waterfalls to ornery hippopotami.

== Playing ==
Your view of the in game world is that of a multi-layered environment which you can move in the four main cardinal directions as well as up and down in elevation. The generated worlds are made of tiles or pixels each representing anything in the world. Dwarves are represented by little faces, rocks by black tiles and open space by blue tiles. There is a command menu that lets you set commands that your dutiful dwarves will attempt to follow. The rest of this wiki is dedicated to helping you with these commands. If you need help starting out, see {{L|Your first fortress}}.

== Goals ==
As an alpha version and sandbox game, there are few goals imposed upon the player by the programming.
 
The main goal, if any, is to take your seven initial dwarves and expand them into a thriving community with skilled workers, battle veterans and nobles. Make your dwarves rich with fine crafts, valuable coins, precious gems and protect them from foes with deadly traps. Make sure they have plenty of food and alcohol, by way of farms above and below ground and keep them clothed in leather and cloth.
Of course, every dwarf loves precious metals, but the only way to find them is dig down, down, far down. Make sure you don't dig too greedily, or too deep, for many creatures dwell in the caverns below and not all are friendly to dwarves....
 
Some more specific challenges are available here, compiled by fun-loving players from all around: {{L|Challenges|List of Fun Goals}}

{{Category|Fortress mode}}

v0.31 Talk:Item quality

2011-02-26T08:28:02Z

Eepkeep: (forgot to sign)

Had a Talented stonecrafter turn out a no-quality mug - so that math has changed.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 02:33, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

I thought mugs didn't have quality levels. unless thats a new feature, you could just be unlucky, toady said a long time ago that even a dabbler has a chance of creating a masterpiece, so maybe it works backwards...hmmm... or I could be entirely wrong. [[Special:Contributions/24.255.86.193|24.255.86.193]]
:Wrong.

Tiredness can cause even a Legendary stonecrafter to turn out no quality mugs. The penalty for being tired, hungry, thirsty are still being adjusted as of version 31.08, but if it is important work to be done at a high level, suspend it until your top dwarf assigned/allowed/{{l|burrow}}ed is rested, feed, and boozed. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 18:06, 9 July 2010 (UTC)

Worked out the multipliers based on my weapon stockpile. I used the info from the value page and iron material page, do if they are wrong then the multipliers are out. I used a base of 1260 for the serrrated discs and a base of 220 for the picks. if someone could clean up the formatting and double check the numbers that would be great [[User:Dangerous Beans|Dangerous Beans]] 03:21, 25 June 2010 (UTC)

just a thought - i was going through the help menu for fun, and found a table of quality ratings. at the bottom of the list are sideways equilateral triangles, that says it's representing magical items. this is on Phoebus' graphic tileset, for the record, but even so, magic items have no mention here. for that matter, nor does excess qualities, or whatever you'd like to call engraving/inlay/studding/etc. i'm a terrible writer myself, but perhaps someone could whip something up? -tryntu

== Nothing about combat? ==

Still no info on the effects of quality on combat? I've filled in the more obvious blanks. If the system is still the same as 40d's, we should just copy-paste some info from there, no? --[[User:Eepkeep|Eepkeep]] 08:28, 26 February 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Item quality

2011-02-26T08:27:43Z

Eepkeep: Still no information regarding item quality and combat?

v0.31:Item quality

2011-02-26T08:24:41Z

Eepkeep: Filling in some obvious blanks

{{av}}
{{Quality|Fine}}

== Quality grades ==

All crafted items ({{L|furniture}}, {{L|armor}}, {{L|bolts}}, etc.) – but not intermediate materials ({{L|bar}}s, {{L|block}}s, etc. except {{L|cloth}}, which does have quality levels) – are bracketed by characters that show the quality of their craftsdwarfship. Dyeing also has a quality level, as does Decorating/Encrusting (with gems, leathers, cloth, etc). Prepared foods have quality levels. Alcohol has a hidden quality rating that controls the amount of happiness a dwarf gets from drinking it.

{|
! style="padding-right: 35px;" | '''Designation''' || style="text-align: left;" | '''Description''' || style="padding-right: 20px; padding-left: 15px; text-align: center;" | '''Value Modifier''' || style="text-align: center;" | ''' Damage / To-Hit / Armor Modifier'''
|-
|  Item Name || style="text-align: center;" | —     || 1x || 1x || style="text-align: center;" | || style="text-align: center;" |
|-
| -Item Name- || Well-crafted || 2x || style="text-align: center;" | || style="text-align: center;" |
|-
| +Item Name+ || Finely-crafted || 3x || style="text-align: center;" | || style="text-align: center;" |
|-
| *Item Name* || Superior quality || 4x ||style="text-align: center;" | || style="text-align: center;" |
|-
| ≡Item Name≡ || Exceptional || 5x || style="text-align: center;" | || style="text-align: center;" |
|-
| ☼Item Name☼ || Masterful || 12x || 2x || style="text-align: center;" | || style="text-align: center;" |
|-
| ''Unique name'' || Artifact || 120x || 3x || style="text-align: center;" |
|}

==Changes to artifact weapons==
Toady gave us a quote on weapon and armor quality, giving the game qualities of an "artifact" in DF2010:
<div style="width: 50em; padding: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 1em; border: 1px solid #ccc; background: #eee;">
#Additional value multiplier of 10 over masterwork, so a total multiplier of 120.
#Cannot be owned (can be equipped, you might have to do it explicitly though).
#Armor deflection roll has *3 roll modifier instead of the masterwork's *2.
#Same for melee attack and archery rolls.
#It looks like the artifact edges are the maximum edge for the material, which is also what a masterwork gets, so beyond a masterwork you'd just be getting the hit roll modifier.
#Things like artifact bone spears will likely be crap against steel, yeah. We don't have actual magical artifacts yet, and that's what would be required.
</div>

v0.31:Wound

2011-02-22T09:44:41Z

Eepkeep: small fix regarding nerves

{{quality|Fine|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

There are five different levels of injury in the game, ranging from none to complete part loss.
Shown using the default* colors, they are:


:{| border=0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=1 style="background: black"
|-
| '''NONE: No recorded active wounds on the part.'''
|-
| '''MINOR: Any damage that doesn't have functional/structural consequences (might be heavy bleeding, though).'''
|-
| '''INHIBITED: Any muscular, structural, or functional damage, without total loss.'''
|-
| '''FUNCTION LOSS: An important function of the part is completely lost, but the part is structurally sound (or, at least partially intact). '''
|-
| '''BROKEN: The part has lost all structural integrity or muscular ability.'''
|-
| '''MISSING: The part is completely gone. '''
|}

:''(* The [[color]] of wounds can be changed in {{L|Init.txt}}.)''

== Missing limb ==

As the name implies, this signals that a limb has been completely severed. Dwarves with severed limbs frequently either die of blood loss or linger in the hospital permanently. Those who recover may find themselves unable to perform the same tasks as they had in the past.

Dwarves without arms are unable to {{L|haul}} items, but are still able to gather crops or work in a workshop. Once created/gathered, the items simply remain where they are until another dwarf comes along to move them. They are also unable to equip armor/clothing, but this won't stop them from biting/kicking in combat. Armless dwarves are unable to operate {{L|screw pump}}s.

== Function loss ==

The new cyan "Function loss" appears to be impairment of an organ for which "broken" or "bruised" would not make sense. Internal organs and eyes have been observed to turn cyan, signaling failures of sight, liver function, and other maladies.

A dwarf can also suffer nervous damage to sensory and/or motor nerves. For example, motor nerve damage to a leg means that the dwarf will never be able to stand up again, which will show as "Ability to stand lost" in the specific dwarf's personal health screen, in addition to nervous damage information. Sensory nerve damage causes pain to disappear and is thought to make a creatures' attacks weaker. When crutch-walking bugs are fixed, dwarves with leg nerve damage can become mobile / useful again. Damage to spinal nervous tissue disconnects all nervous function below the damaged point. For the upper spine (and possible middle?{{verify}}) this can include the lungs, so damage tends to lead to suffocation.

If you want your dwarves to heal spinal nerve damage, go into the raws, find the tissue_template_default and set [HEALING_RATE:100] to the NERVE_TEMPLATE. Optionally, specify 2000 for a much slower rate; bone has a healing rate of 1000, so this will make nerve damage heal at half the speed of broken bones. However, this does not affect other nerves, as they apparently do not count as "nervous tissue".

== Scarring ==

Dwarves who sustain major injuries may never fully heal—the part will always remain listed in their Wounds section as "Minor" or "Inhibited", and the dwarf's description in his Thoughts and Preferences screen will note that he bears scars. This may result in notes in the {{L|Health screen}} such as "Ability to grasp somewhat impaired". It is unknown what effect this has. Possibly sometimes or always failing to use a two-handed item (eg. pick).

v0.31 Talk:Wound

2011-02-21T16:36:22Z

Eepkeep:

==Broken heart?==
I have seen a creature, while testing in the arena, with a broken heart.
My creature was modded to have a uncontrolled dust attack with a humanoid body without arms and with 4 legs. As 7 of them fought against a dragon, one of the surviving creatures had a broken heart. Either it has lost a loved one, or it had just broken its heart!--[[User:Niggy|Niggy]] 18:13, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

One of my dwarves got a broken liver. Because liver is the most important part of the dwarven metabolism, adamantine sutures were used to fix it.--[[User:Aavemursu|Aavemursu]]

==Inhibited Dwarves==
Dwarves with some kinda of lasting status such as inhibited flash with a yellow '+'. How this effects the dwarf is on the hospital screen (weak grasp, etc.) Do not know to what extent inhibited dwarves are effected in work and combat.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 04:06, 15 June 2010 (UTC)

== Lasting Injuries ==

One of my dwarfs has injuries to her left arm and lower leg. These are listed in her personality section as "tiny curving scars" rather than dents or bruises as would be the case for combat injuries. Scarring causes permanent injuries? Needs corroboration.--[[User:Nimblewright|Nimblewright]] 09:54, 21 April 2010 (UTC)

:After checking around this applies to all my dwarves that have scars. Scarred areas are listed in the personality section, and remain permanently brown or yellow - i.e. minor/inhibited.--[[User:Nimblewright|Nimblewright]] 09:54, 21 April 2010 (UTC)

== Function Loss ==

"From the description above, the new cyan "Function loss" appears to be paralyzation or numbness."

I've had about fifteen dwarves wrestling an ettin for about a month now, and the only things that turn cyan are internal organs (pancreas, kidney, lung). No limb or appendage has turned cyan that I've seen. I suspect that it is used for things that would not be, say, bruised or broken, but otherwise damaged. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 18:40, 10 April 2010 (UTC)

:After another week and some dogs joining in, the eyes went cyan, too. So it's not just /internal/ organs, but I think my earlier conclusion is still sound. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 21:55, 10 April 2010 (UTC)

== Post Traumatic Stress ==

I've only found limited references to what I think is a bug: after one of my military dwarves was brain-damaged during a goblin ambush (and after the goblins were dead or long-gone) she kept spamming "Urist McMacedwarf cancels rest: interrupted by goblin mace man". Although sporting a whole range of grievous wounds, she would ''not'' be carried to a hospital bed as the rest of the wounded, since she apparently retained consciousness albeit a strange dementia wherein she kept thinking goblins were still all around her. I thought this a bit comical at first, and after all, suffering brain damage could now be liable for myriad of behavioral quirks but when the spam messages -- about 5 per second -- went into the 1,000 range, and the dwarf kept sitting there, not having eaten or drank for over a month, I began getting concerned (especially when this eventually led to the game crashing, I assume from congestion of the spam messages). Recently, however, I had the same thing happen to a dwarf who had ''not'' suffered any brain or head injury, and yet the same thing's happening with her, leading me to believe it's a bug. The only solutions offered on the Bay12 forums involve deconstructing the bed of or killing the said dwarf on the pretense that he/she is underground, in one's fortress, specifically in the hospital. My wounded hospital dwarves have never spammed these messages (and why would they -- they're already resting) and both these instances occurred with dwarves still outside. I cannot have my squads kill them and see no way of ending the stream of messages. Any ideas? --[[User:Bronzebeard|Bronzebeard]] 12:45, 4 May 2010 (UTC)

:Good news: I've found a way to fix this bug! Apparently, the confused (or bugged, as the case may be) dwarves have to sustain another injury to snap them out of it. With a heavy heart, I built a menacing spike right under the troubled dwarf and connected it to a lever nearby, and had it pulled. To my disappointment, as I wanted to at least afford her a quick death, it only wounded her. I was going to have it pulled again before I discovered the spam messages had stopped and, despite the dire injuries, she was no longer trying to rest but attend a combat drill, but nonetheless, a dwarf nearby headed toward her to carry her off to a hospital bed. Problem solved, evidently. --[[User:Bronzebeard|Bronzebeard]] 02:59, 5 May 2010 (UTC)

== Broken Skulls? ==

I've been controlling creatures in the Arena, and something strange happened. I was wandering around with nothing but a maul, trashing goblins because I could, and I hit a goblin in the head. It said that it broke its skull, so I moved on to another creature, and didn't notice that it started following me. Focusing on the actual threats, I killed everything else, and then it killed me by stabbing me in the lung. Has this happened to anyone else?--[[User:Mad Fencer|Mad Fencer]] 23:02, 22 May 2010 (UTC)

:Propably you damaged only the cranial bone, but left the brain intact enough to not kill him instantly.--[[User:Gnarker|Gnarker]] 20:02, 28 May 2010 (CEST)

== Pale ==
Just discovered a Hoary Marmot badly wounded by a Troglodyte, which had the 'pale' descriptor in the wounds-screen. I think that came from the heavy blood loss.--[[User:Gnarker|Gnarker]] 20:06, 28 May 2010 (CEST)
:Yah, that was present in 40d as well. It goes 'Faint', then 'Pale', and then the creature dies. Sorta the same way 'Hungry' and 'Starving' work, except it's referring to running out of blood instead of running out of food. Happens to your dwarves too, along with every creature that bleeds. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 20:31, 28 May 2010 (UTC)

== This page needs more info ==

RIght now it should say what different injuries effects are.--[[User:Toybasher|Toybasher]] 12:10, 29 May 2010 (UTC)

I added in a section describing what effects missing limbs (specifically, arms) have. --[[User:Existent|Existent]] 15:44, 11 August 2010 (UTC)

== Death by workshop? ==

So, my woodcutter is happily working on some bins, when suddenly an announcement pops up. "Cog Dalzatkikrost, Woodworker has bled to death." His corpse is still in his workshop. There appears to be no units on the unit list aside from my dwarves and embark animals. This workshop is outside, but very close to a meeting zone that has other dwarves on break and animals present. The Thoughts and Preferences screen says "His upper body is gone". Being the woodworker, he had a copper battle axe, but I'm not sure if that's relevant. What on earth happened here? --[[Special:Contributions/174.0.202.59|174.0.202.59]] 22:21, 17 June 2010 (UTC)
:A few seconds after this happened, a stray dog just randomly died in what I can only assume is a similar fashion. "His upper body is gone" --[[Special:Contributions/174.0.202.59|174.0.202.59]] 22:27, 17 June 2010 (UTC)
::A horse standing in the same general area as both the dog and the woodcutter just got some random leg wounds, but didn't die. I was sitting here watching this happen. I didn't see anything approach it, and neither did my dwarves apparently. It just suddenly ran off in one direction, leaving a trail of blood, and stopped a few tiles away closer to my other dwarves which were in the meeting area on break.
:::Can be magma one level below, or melting rain bug, or other temperature bug. -Afoninv
::::Or El Chupacabra.
:All dead dwarves show with "upper body is gone" afterwards, it's not an actual indicator of what killed them. You can now press R to get combat reports though with the same details from adventure mode. [[User:Scikar|Scikar]] 18:42, 8 August 2010 (UTC)

== Colossus of Socks ==

Apparently a cave spider silk sock can be used as an improvised weapon by the colossus if stolen from one of the dwarves... Its been three years, and the colossus has never once stopped beating my hammerdwarf with it. I just left them alone in a secluded room together. Its entertaining. It seems a dwarf can take damage to every piece of his body without dying. Especially if its constant, and with a sock.
:This brings another thing to mind. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VDvgL58h_Y
:--[[User:Axussriddare|KETHCHUP BERSERK!!!]] 16:04, 21 October 2010 (UTC)

Yes, I spent over a year fighting a Bronze Colossus who insisted on bashing elves and my adventurer eventually to death with a Pig tail skirt...--[[User:Haydosss|Haydosss]] 08:13, 3 November 2010 (UTC)

== Limb Loss ==
I've just had a Speardwarf have his arm cut off in battle (he continued fighting and ended up killing about 10 goblins) and he survived the entire fight. Now he is wandering around as though there is (almost) nothing wrong, he hasn't gone to the Hospital once despite there being many beds. I think the section on missing limbs needs to be changed just to point out that not all dwarves will linger in the hospital after losing a limb.
By the way, he is pretty much doing the exact same thing as he did before losing his arm.

== Making nerve damage healable ==

The article says you can make nerve damage healable by editing the raw files. Do you have to do this before creating the world? I edited the tissue_template_default.txt file in raw/objects and in the save folder. But the nerve damage remains. [[Special:Contributions/220.253.87.249|220.253.87.249]] 03:07, 5 January 2011 (UTC)
:I believe so, but haven't verified. —[[Special:Contributions/98.221.97.100|98.221.97.100]] 06:30, 5 January 2011 (UTC)

It was suggested that nerves are only ever severed, so they do not heal, and adding this tag does nothing. Can someone confirm? --[[User:Naros|Naros]] 03:30, 12 February 2011 (UTC)
:Confirmed. The line [TISSUE_NAME:nervous tissue:NP] may suggest that it only applies to spinal nerves, since those are the only nerves which I've seen being referred to as "nervous tissue". --[[User:Eepkeep|Eepkeep]] 16:36, 21 February 2011 (UTC)

Population cap

2011-02-19T06:50:06Z

Eepkeep: Changing redirect to relevant page

#REDIRECT [[D_init.txt]]

v0.31 Talk:Bookkeeper

2011-02-19T06:06:11Z

Eepkeep:

== Drunken Record Keeping ==

I've had this happen in several fortresses, so I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed. I always set my bookkeepers to keep maximum accuracy and turn off all otehr labors forthem. After a while of this, they start carrying a barrel of alcohol with them and don't go to the stockpile unless the barrel runs out. --Kydo 17:38, 22 October 2010 (UTC)
:Yeah, mine seems to work like that as well. I guess it's the dwarf equivalent of coffee when you're busy with tons of paperwork. --[[User:Eepkeep|Eepkeep]] 06:06, 19 February 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Bridge

2011-01-26T13:12:09Z

Eepkeep:

{{quality|Exceptional|22:21, 10 November 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

'''Bridges''' are extremely useful buildings for crossing dangerous terrain and also for fortress defence. Using them to control [[flow|fluids]] can save a ton of mechanisms and time, especially when the fluid in question is free-flowing and not pressurized (by {{L|pump}}, {{L|river}} or hydrostatic anything) and needs a wide tunnel.

==Building Bridges==

Bridges can be built ({{k|b}} -> {{k|g}}) of {{L|metal}}, {{L|stone}} or {{L|wood}}. They are first designed by an {{L|architect}}, then require a specialist worker for the material used (e.g. a {{L|mason}} for a stone bridge). The size of the bridge can be altered with {{k|u}}{{k|m}}{{k|k}}{{k|h}} while placing it, up to a maximum size of 10 squares in each direction. The bridge must be anchored to a solid surface on at least one edge. Before placing the bridge ensure that the bridge raises in the direction you want it to using {{k|w}}{{k|a}}{{k|d}}{{k|x}} or retracts using {{k|s}}.

==Raising/Retracting Bridges==

All bridges in DF can be raised or retracted by linking it to a {{L|lever}}. This requires a {{L|mechanic's workshop}} and a dwarf with the {{l|mechanics}} labor activated.

If a bridge is set to retract when the lever is pulled, the bridge essentially disappears dropping anything (friend, foe, or object) on the bridge onto whatever is underneath. Clearly this can be used to drop your enemies to rocky/watery/fiery deaths (or anything more imaginative you can think up!).

If a bridge is set to raise when the lever is pulled, the bridge becomes a wall along the edge selected with the {{k|w}}{{k|a}}{{k|d}}{{k|x}} keys when placing the bridge. The resulting wall is always one z-level tall, regardless of the width of the bridge. The bridge also "moves" to this position very fast, firing anything on the bridge into the air. The key advantage to raising bridges is the creation of a wall when the bridge is raised. This can be used to block fortress entrances/corridors. Using 2 bridges at opposite ends of a corridor creates a very large and simple trap by walling in enemies.

The lowering of a drawbridge can also be used as a waste disposal for unwanted stones, {{L|refuse}}, {{l|goblin}}s (dead or alive), legendary {{l|cheese}} makers and {{L|nobles}}, to name a few. Even fluids get destroyed (this is especially useful considering lack of chasms in the new version). However, lowering a drawbridge onto a sufficiently large creature (such as a {{L|forgotten beast}}) simply destroys the bridge.

==Bugs==

Retractable bridges (possibly raising bridges, but this is untested) will not retract when a mounted unit (a unit riding another) is on the bridge. Attempting to do so will create odd results if multiple bridges are connected to the same lever[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS5f_Snz-Y8].
*This is true except that I was able to retract the bridge if only 1 or 2 mounted units were standing on it. Could it have to do with a weight limit?
*Can't retract bridge with 7 goblins on. Seems like a weight limit...

It is impossible to channel out stone that is directly under a raiseable bridge when its in the raised position.

Non-[[magma-safe]] bridge will heat up and eventually melt if a tile, which would be normally part of a lowered bridge gets covered in magma. State of the bridge (raised/lowered) doesn't matter, if it's within the bridge's rectangle, it endangers the whole bridge. This is also true if a dragon breathes fire across your bridge.

Bridges do not provide structural support -- but the game thinks they do. Sorry two random masons. I already forgot you.

Traders might expect 5 tiles wide bridges. One tile width apparently wasn't good enough for them and they went insane. (.31.12)

A raised bridge cannot be linked to a lever from the inside.

You can steal from traders with bridges (depends on the bridge's thieving skill).{{bug|3128}}

{{buildings}}

v0.31:Embark

2011-01-25T06:59:09Z

Eepkeep: confused metamorphic (grey) with sedimentary (white) color on embark screen

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

'''Embark''' is the moment at the very beginning of the game, before actual game play begins (but after {{L|World generation|generating a world}}), when you and your initial 7 dwarves:
# Choose a site.
# Assign starting {{L|skill|skills}} to each dwarf.
# Select an initial load of {{L|supplies|supplies and equipment}}.
# Arrive at the site with your wagon full of supplies.

= Choosing a Site =
The process of choosing a site in DF2010 is much less involved than prior versions due to the ubiquitous presence of magma, gems, and ore, but that said there are still several considerations to keep in mind, namely aquifers, ore types, wood, climate, and neighbors.
There is just ONE BIG RULE: when your home civ is too small, you will first recognize after the 2nd winter that you won't get more immigrants, which can be [[Fun|extremely fun]]. Your home civilization will need more than one dwarven place on the map.

[[File:Embark.jpg]] 
The Choose Fortress Location screen shows four separate sections, with three of them being three views of the land at three different levels of magnification: Local, Region, and World. A section of highlighted tiles in the Local view indicates the current embark location within the region. The local view constitutes a 16x16 grid of embark area tiles (each representing 48x48 tiles when you are playing the game) that is within a single region tile. The world map cannot be directly controlled, and exists only to give you the overall view of where, relative to the rest of the features of the world, the region map is focused on.

The arrow keys control the X cursor in the center "Region" view while {{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} move the embark location around within the Local view. {{K|Shift}}-{{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} will resize the embark location.

The size of the embark location directly affects how much data about a map the game will have to store in your computer's memory, the size of your save files, and correspondingly, will dramatically affect the save and load times for your map, potentially make pathfinding more resource-intensive, and may generally slow your game down. As such, smaller maps are recommended, especially for less powerful computers. Remember that each tile on your embark screen is 48x48 tiles large.

On the far right of the screen is a list of local features in the dominant biome. Individual biomes, which form at least one map-tile of your embark location, can be cycled with the {{Key|F#}}-keys; for example, an area with 3 biomes present can be cycled using {{Key|F1}}, {{Key|F2}} and {{Key|F3}}. The selected biome will be highlighted with flashing Xs on the Local Map, and the biome's information will be displayed on the right side of the screen. The list at the bottom of the biome information indicates the dominant soil/stone composition from top to bottom for the first eight layers.

== Biomes ==
Main article: {{L|Biome|biome}}

A '''biome''' is a biotic area with homogeneous features, characterized by distinctive {{L|plant|plants}}, {{L|creatures|animal species}} and {{L|climate|climate}}.

In the above image, the biome is "Temperate Broadleaf Forest", and the region the biome is part of is given a specific name: "The Oily Forest".

Biomes will also contain only one set of stone layers, though these usually expand beyond a single biome. Your {{L|dwarves|dwarves}} will find different resources depending on which biomes they select when starting a fort.

Biomes are important when choosing a fortress location in order to understand your {{L|surroundings|surroundings}}.

=== Climate ===
Main article: {{L|climate|climate}}

Climate determines the maximum temperature range of the region, which in turn impacts the severity of exposure to the outside, whether water will freeze in winter, and how quickly water evaporates.

The climate is displayed as "Temperature: Hot" in the above image.

Very hot and very cold biomes bring their own challenges which may be further compounded with overlapping features, such as a glacier being frozen for half the year, and being devoid of trees, and lacking a river. Very hot climates may see all its surface water quickly evaporate, making finding a water supply more dangerous, as underground caves filled with hostile creatures may be the only supply of water.

=== Plant Life ===
Main article: {{L|Tree|trees}} and {{L|Shrub|shrubs}}

Seen in the above image as "Trees: Heavily Forested" and "Other Vegetation: Thick".

Trees are useful for the {{L|wood}} they provide, and wood is a basic building material, important for being the only material that beds can be made of, and, as metal bins and barrels require three times as much of less common metal resources as wood bins and barrels do, they are preferred materials for that, as well. Wood is also a renewable source for {{L|charcoal}}, the {{L|fuel}} used in forges to make metal products in smelters or forges that are not magma-powered, and is needed to make steel even when you have magma forges. Wood is finally also useful in making {{L|potash}} for soap or fertilizing farms.

In spite of wood's many uses, it is entirely possible to play in this version without any trees in your biomes, as trees can be farmed in muddied underground areas regardless of how barren the surface is. Due to the inexpensive nature of wood, it is possible to simply embark with enough wood to last until you are ready to set up tree farming operations underground. Wood is also a common good that elves, humans, and dwarves alike will sell to you.

Shrubs can provide some quick food through the {{L|herbalism}} skill, {{L|still|brewable materials}}, and {{L|seeds}} for some very helpful above-ground {{L|Crops|crops}} which are generally only available through trading with Elves.

=== Surroundings ===
Main article: {{L|surroundings}}

Surroundings affect how powerful and hostile local wildlife will be, and some forms of plants are available only in specific types of surroundings.

The surroundings of the example image are listed as, "Surroundings: Calm".

Any biome can have any set of surroundings; for example a glacier could be haunted, wilderness or mirthful. However, a named region (which is a contiguous area of one category of biomes, such as forests or wetlands) will be either good, neutral, or evil.

There are two axis for surroundings: Savagery and alignment. Calm and neutral savagery are functionally identical. Savage lands are like normal lands, except they will frequently have giant or hostile humanoid versions of normal animals, for example you might have a {{L|Tigerman}} instead of "merely" a {{L|tiger}} in a savage jungle.

Good biomes are similar to neutral biomes, except have more fanciful (and generally benign) creatures like {{L|pixie}}s, {{L|fluffy wambler}}s, or {{L|unicorn}}s, and are generally no more dangerous than neutral biomes. Evil biomes are home to many dangerous creatures, often dead vegetation and even including undead versions of normal creatures, making for a far more hostile environment specifically for players who want to face a greater challenge to stay alive, especially early on. Trees might not grow in an evil area.

It is possible to start a fortress that overlaps multiple alignment types (for example good, evil, savage, and benign). Some players consider this desirable, as it provides diversity in your little corner of the world, but it also has its dangers in the form of more ferocious wildlife.

=== Layers ===
Main articles: {{L|Layer}}, {{L|Ore|ore}} and {{L|Stone|stone}}

At the bottom right of the biome view is the data on stone layers, displaying the top eight layers of stone or soil.

Each type of layer stone has certain kinds of ores, gems, and other minerals that will appear within that form of layer. Layers are color-coded by the type of rock they are, with brown indicating {{L|soil}} (useless for raw materials, but easy to dig through), white indicating a {{L|sedimentary layer}} (indispensable for producing {{L|steel}}), light grey indicating a {{L|metamorphic layer}} (good for gems, and may contain marble to use as {{L|flux}}), and dark grey indicating either an {{L|igneous extrusive layer}} or an {{L|igneous intrusive layer}} (which may indicate magma pools in the caverns, as well as being good for various metal ores). Igneous layers will never be found in the same biome as sedimentary layers, but it is possible to have both in the same map by embarking over two or more different biomes.

It is very difficult to produce {{L|steel}} without a [[sedimentary layer]]. ([[Steel]] makes nearly the [[Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|best weapons and armor]], and the materials are fairly easy to acquire if you have sedimentary layers.) For steel, ideally, look for a site with [[chalk]], [[limestone]], or [[dolomite]], which are not only sedimentary stones, but [[flux]] stones as well. Any site showing some sedimentary stone should contain all of the necessary ingredients, however.

To forge [[steel]], you will need [[iron]] ore, [[flux]] stone, and [[fuel]]. The three ores of [[iron]] (hematite, magnetite, and limonite) can only be found in sedimentary layers, with the exception of hematite, which can occasionally be found in [[igneous extrusive]] layers. Furthermore, four of the five [[flux]] stones (calcite, chalk, dolomite, and limestone) are also only found in sedimentary layers, as well as both [[coal]] ores (bituminous coal and lignite) for making [[coke]] fuel.

If you have no sedimentary layers, your only hope to make steel is with:
* hematite in [[igneous extrusive]] layers
* marble in [[metamorphic]] layers
* wood for making [[charcoal]] fuel
Even if you find and exploit magma for your furnaces, you'll still need the fuel in the smelting process, so you'll be cutting down two trees and burning them to make charcoal for every unit of hematite you are lucky enough to find.

=== Aquifer ===
Main article: {{L|aquifer}}

An aquifer is a layer of soil or stone saturated with water, and a biome may contain upwards of 3 aquifer layers (theoretically more, but such would be rare to say the least). These are represented with ≈≈≈≈≈ symbols in the soil layers. Embarking on an aquifer brings up a warning before embark as an aquifer can significantly raise the difficulty of starting a fort. For specific tactics on working with an aquifer see the main page.

== Changing Views ==
Pressing {{K|Tab}} will cycle the presented information through a variety of different views and panels.
*Neighbors - other civilizations that are closest to your current location. Proximity increases the chance of interaction, though at present this largely means "nearby goblins are more likely to attack you." If any race is not represented on this page, it means that the civilization cannot reach you if you are in that location. Embarking on an {{l|island}}, or a location completely surrounded by mountains will make it impossible for any civilization but your own dwarven civilization to reach you, as world map travel across oceans or mountains is impossible. If not even "Dwarves" appears, it means that your home civilization is dead, and there will be no {{l|migrants}} or {{l|trade}} with your home civilization. (If this is the case, it is recommended you change to a still-existent civilization unless you want the challenge of having no support from the mountainhomes.) Races that are hostile to you are represented by a series of red "-" marks. In vanilla DF, goblins are always hostile, but humans or elves may also be at war with particular dwarven civilizations (and if you choose your starting civilization in the "Your Civilization" screen, they may not be at war with you).
*Your Civilization - indicates all Dwarven civilizations in the world. {{K|*}} and {{K|-}} will cycle through the civilizations allowing you to choose which your settlers will be embarking from. It may be worth looking at your choice of starting civilizations in {{l|Legends}} Mode before embarking, as there is much information about your civilization that is not shown directly at embark, and there is no way short of abandoning a fort to change your civilization once you have embarked. Civilization choice will affect who is at war with you, what goods are available for trade (Dwarven caravans will only have the goods in the region of the city that is trading with your fort. These will be the same goods that are available for you to purchase at embark. Metals or stones, for example, that are not available for you to purchase in the "Prepare Carefully" screen will never be available for trade with the dwarven caravan.), who your regent will be (considering [[Cacame_Awemedinade|one might be surprised by who turns out to be one's regent]], this might be of note, but is only viewable in Legends Mode), and if there are any surviving members of your civilization left to migrate to or trade with your fort.
*Relative Elevation - Shows the land height relative to the lowest point in the region.
*Cliff Indicator - Shows the severity of cliffs. Unless you have turned erosion off, then, with the exception of rivers that cut through mountains, even apparently very steep cliffs will still have ramps that make it perfectly accessible for any creature or even the wagons in caravans.

== Reclaiming a fortress ==

If you reclaim the site of an abandoned fortress you may see goods, materials, and corpses left from the previous effort. These items will initially be [[forbid|forbidden]] and you will have to [[reclaim]] them before your dwarves will acknowledge their existence, for example to haul them to a graveyard or refuse [[stockpile]].

= Creating Your Settlers =

== Play Now! ==
You can forgo the process of assigning skills and supplies and instead select '''Play Now!''' This option will give you a selection of Dwarves with the following profiles:

Updated for 0.31.13:
* Miner: Adequate Miner
* Woodworker: Novice Carpenter, Bowyer
* Woodcutter: Novice Wood Cutter, Brewer, Cook, Grower, Herbalist, Furnace Operator, Wood Burner, Lye Maker, Potash Maker
* Stoneworker: Novice Engraver, Mason, Mechanic, Building Designer
* Jeweler: Novice Gem Cutter, Gem Setter, Wood Crafter, Stone Crafter, and Bone Crafter
* Fisherdwarf: Novice Fisherdwarf
* Fish Cleaner: Novice Fish Cleaner, Butcher, Tanner, Weaver, Clothier, and Leatherworker

One of these will be randomly flagged as Expedition Leader at the start.

From 0.31.12: The default embark value for a custom embark is 1274: 974 in pre-chosen goods and 300 unassigned. The Play Now! embark only uses 1038 points. While a Play Now! embark is no more doomed than any other embark, it is always better to Prepare Carefully once you know what you're doing with the set up of an early fort since Novice Butcher is hardly better than a Dwarf you manually flagged for the job. The only good reason is if you really want the Super Doctor, given the hazards of learning medical skills on-the-job.

Note: In 0.31.13, you no longer embark with any medical skills.

== Prepare Carefully ==
Preparing allows the player to customize their embarking party and supplies by spending a pool of points which is shared between skills and equipment, with each skill rank and equipment item having a set value. The total value of embarking is set at 1,274 points, though all but 300 of these are pre-spent on an array of basic equipment (the same equipment Play Now! uses.) It stands that one should try to maximize the value of their embark by spending all available points.

=== Skills ===
Main article: {{L|Skills|skills}}

The seven settlers you begin with can be assigned up to ten skill ranks picked from the entire Dwarven skill list, including military, though only a maximum of 5 ranks (giving them a rank of "Proficient") can be bought in any one skill. Skill ranks are bought from the shared pool at a cost of 5 for the first rank, 6 for the second, 7 for the third, and so on. Maxing out a skill thus costs a total of 35 points. Although this is already fairly involved, between the long skill list and the floating cost, the value of a rank is subject to further scrutiny given the early-game value, or lack thereof, of certain skills as well as the relative ease or difficulty of training ranks in a given skill. Many skills are performed just as well (or with little functional difference) by a Novice or even a Dabbler as they are by a Legendary. A Novice Furnace Operator won't produce Coke as fast as a Legendary Furnace Operator, but they will produce it fast enough to keep their neighbor smelting hematite until the cows come home.

For a more complex example, there is much overlap between what can be produced out of wood and what can be produced out of metal, but wood is plentiful in the early game (often throughout if a tree farm is established, and caravans will bring in several pages worth of wood if you request it) while metalworking can take much longer to establish, or would take several times longer to produce a given product in early game due to the multiple steps required, especially without a magma smelter. Metalworking also skills up slower than woodworking and metal products have a longer base production time than wood products.

From one point of view, the Woodworking skills would be of more immediate use in producing quick goods of higher value in the early game, especially given the high volume needed; however furniture quality is of little concern in the early game, and the high volume of value-independent goods (such as barrels which you won't be trading away on their own or using to furnish chambers) will cause your carpenter to skill up fairly quickly. Even on a strictly functional level even a Novice carpenter can produce beds, barrels, and bins fast enough to keep up with a fledgling base. Lastly, once metal production is up and running, it can be agonizingly slow if a Farmer or Peasant has to be re-assigned to learn from scratch, thus a proficient Metalsmith stands to pay off much more in time than starting with a proficient Carpenter.

=== Supplies ===

The default array of supplies covers a broad range of foodstuffs, seeds, drink, tools, and medical equipment, and is reasonable, though extra food and drink never hurt anyone.
:* 2 Copper {{l|pick}}s
:* 2 Copper battle {{l|axe}}s
:* 1 Iron {{l|anvil}}
:* 60 units alcohol (20 each of 3 random types1, 12 free barrels)
:* 6 bags containing 5x dimple cup, cave wheat, plump helmet, sweet pods, pig tail, and quarry bush {{l|seed}}s
:* 15 units of meat (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of fish (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of plump helmets (10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 5 pig tail fiber thread
:* 5 pig tail fiber cloth
:* 5 pig tail fiber bags
:* 3 pig tail fiber ropes
:* 3 wooden buckets
:* 3 wooden splints
:* 3 wooden crutches
:* 2 dogs (random sex)
:* 2 cats (random sex)
:* 1 random cow/ox/mule/horse (random sex)

Lower forest embark sites should definitely consider bringing extra logs to cover the early demand for beds, &c. Also do not overlook the value of bringing animals. Dogs in particular can provide an excellent early warning system, good fighters against kobolds and other thieves, and a healthy supply of meat and bones.

== Embark Strategies ==
The strategies below are suggestions. They are not universal, and many are even contradictory. This is because there is no One True Way to play Dwarf Fortress. Some may not work for you because of unstated assumptions about priority, value, fun, or procedure. However, since Losing is Fun, it's always worth it to try something out, even if it doesn't go well.

=== Picking the Right Location ===

'''Need More Dirt (and Its Inverse)''' - three layers of soil before the stone layers begin provides a very large area that can be used to quickly carve out efficient storage rooms and large tree farms of the colorful underground trees without the need to flood/muddy large areas of stone. Remember, the embark screen only lists the first eight layers, and the total number of layers is highly random. More dirt does not necessarily mean less stone.

'''Flowing Water (and Its Inverse)''' - flowing water (river or stream) is a must have for the infinite power it supplies for working machinery and because underground water supplies are too dangerous to tap into. There is no guarantee of infinite water underground, you could embark on a map with completely dry caverns. However, rainier climates will always have murky pools, which with careful management can be refilled from the rain. Infinite power for working machinery can be created using a limited amount of water in a perpetual motion machine. Although, being limited in quantity, murky pools simply do not have the capacity to permanently flood your fortress, while a single mistake with an infinite source can easily do so.

=== Preparation Strategies ===

'''Free Barrels''' - many products are stored in bins, barrels, or bags and do not stack with other items even if they're in the same broad classification. Plump Helmets and Horse Meat come in separate barrels even though they're both food. Purchasing a single item of food (or increasing the number to one above the storage limit of the barrel i.e. 11, 21, 31) will also produce a free barrel for it to be stored in. As barrels have a cost of 10 to buy empty, buying a single unit of cost 2 foodstuffs gets you a value of 5. Anything above cost 2 bought for the express purpose of getting barrels would be better off just buying barrels empty or raw logs. This concept can be extended to many different goods, and for any stored good you were "going to buy anyway" you should avoid buying exactly a containerful. Do not get 20, get 21.
* Note that meat products from the same animal will store in the same barrel, thus 1 unit of Horse Meat and 1 unit of Horse Tripe will only get you one barrel, not two.

'''Cheap Bags''' - while even the cheapest bags (made from cave spider silk and low-value leather) cost 10 points each, you can instead simply bring several units of {{L|sand}} costing 1 point each, as each unit of sand will be stored in its own bag made from a randomly selected material (including giant cave spider silk and valuable creature leather).

'''Don't Really Need That''' - unless you have tailored your embark for metal production quick and early, an anvil is typically unnecessary and the 100 points you get from refunding it can be better spent on skills or additional foodstuffs (can't really have enough foodstuffs). By the time the Dwarven caravan arrives in the fall, a 100☼ iron anvil, or even a 300☼ steel anvil, should be little more than an inconvenience. This can sometimes be problematic if you are unlucky and the caravan does not bring an anvil.

'''REALLY Don't Need That''' - For players more familiar with the game. Bring no pre-constructed goods (weapons, buckets, etc.), just the materials to make them with. This requires several (3-10, though you're likely to bring way more) logs, some fire-safe stone, some bars of copper, and an anvil. Upon arrival, build a Wood Furnace and a Forge, make charcoal, then picks for the {{L|miner}}s and an axe for {{L|wood cutter}}s. Medical supplies should be unnecessary to start with, because if you need them you're screwed. You may want to bring some rope along though.

'''Yes, I Do Need That''' - never leave without alcohol unless you bring a dedicated {{L|herbalist|plant gatherer}}/{{L|brewer}}.

=== Skill Sets ===
Here are some sample skill distribution sets. And remember, ''The value of a rank is subject to further scrutiny given the early-game value, or lack thereof''. A proficient miner is always welcomed as a valuable addition to a fortress, but just how valuable is a proficient carpenter, compared to a dabbling one? Slightly higher quality level, produced slightly faster. It may be wise to spend those points elsewhere, perhaps on a diagnostician, or noble's skill. Something not so easily trained.

'''Ashery'''
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

'''Tarran'''
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

'''Ancient Enemy'''
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

'''Proteus'''
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

'''Cronus'''
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarfs with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

= See Also =
*New players may find the [[Quickstart guide]] useful.
*The [[Starting build|Starting Build]] article has more detailed embark strategies.

v0.31 Talk:Surgeon

2011-01-24T16:59:37Z

Eepkeep: Created page with '== Skill effect == How does having a higher skill affect surgery, and conversely are there any risks with assigning dabbling surgeons to the job?'

== Skill effect ==

How does having a higher skill affect surgery, and conversely are there any risks with assigning dabbling surgeons to the job?

v0.31:Spearman

2011-01-23T06:12:28Z

Eepkeep: Redirecting blank page to the rest of the category

#REDIRECT [[DF2010:Combat_skill]]

v0.31:Swordsman

2011-01-23T06:11:53Z

Eepkeep: Redirecting blank page to the rest of the category

#REDIRECT [[DF2010:Combat_skill]]

v0.31:Combat skill

2011-01-23T06:03:08Z

Eepkeep:

{{quality|Exceptional|20:17, 26 December 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

''Until more is known about each individual skill, and on the suspicion that much will be parallel and/or related, and so that all information/discussion can be collected in one place (for now, at least), all "combat skills" will redirect here, at least until it becomes more clear if/how we should break them up.''

== General combat skills ==

'''General Combat skills''' are a category of skills that are collectively unrelated to whether a dwarf is using weapons or armor but are useful for combat.

:* Archer
:* Biter
:* Dodger
:* Fighter
:* Kicker
:* Striker
:* Wrestler

'''Archer''' skill increases with the use of any ranged attack, including throwing. Its exact function is unknown, but when tested in {{L|arena}} mode with two dwarves, one no skill and one grand master on isolated pillars with bows, the grand master shot the no skill dwarf with far greater accuracy.

'''Biter''' skill increases whenever a character chooses to bite an opponent. This is probably the most effective attack for a creature whose biting causes a {{L|syndrome}}, but some {{L|immigrant}}s will arrive with this skill as well, and unarmed combatants will occasionally learn a bit when they chose to bite during a combat.

'''Dodger''' aids creatures in avoidance, causing enemies to miss more often. Scanning of combat reports suggest that dodging is very common and effective - assuming that messages referring to dodging are in essence caused by the dodger skill. Dodging can, unfortunately, cause dwarves to fall through z levels into chasms, pits, or water; they do not attempt to avoid dodging into perilous locales. In version{{v|0.31.17}} dodging became even more commonplace because unlike previous versions even creatures lying on the ground can dodge now ("scramble" and "roll").

The '''Fighter''' skill increases with each melee attack (from or to a target), no matter what kind of weapon is used, and can increase rather quickly. Its use or significance is currently not known. However, when tested in arena mode with two dwarves, one unskilled and one grand master fighter, the one with fighter skill won consistently while armed with any of the default weapons. Unarmed dwarves showed no preference.

'''Kicker''' skill is increased by kicking in unarmed combat. Stance strikes from kicking tend to have a blunt {{L|attack type}}.

'''Striker''' skill is increased by throwing punches in unarmed combat.

'''Wrestler''' skill pertains to incapacitating enemies by holding limbs. Wrestlers are generally unable to kill much, but they may make killing easier for their armed comrades. Their punches do kill fellow dwarves when tantruming. Wrestlers can strangle enemies unconscious, break joints, and even take away weapons and armor, but the AI is rather unlikely to do so (making [[adventurer mode|adventurer]] wrestlers much more effective).

== Equipment skills ==

'''Equipment skills''' are associated with the use of non-weapon equipment, and as a class increase dwarf survivability.

:* Armor User
:* Shield User

'''Armor User''' skill is related to how well a dwarf moves in {{L|armor}}, and increases whenever a dwarf wearing armor is attacked. Higher levels of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing dwarves wearing full steel plate to move at normal speed. Arena testing also indicates that armor users become tired less easily than non armor wearers (300 vs 100 announcements vs bronze colossus) Because even leather {{L|clothes}} count as armor, this skill often appears at dabbling level on civilians who briefly struggle with a {{L|kobold}} {{L|thief}} or predatory animals.

'''Shield User''' increases whenever a dwarf uses a {{L|shield}} or {{L|buckler}} to block an attack, which is often. Shields increase survivability of dwarves a great deal, and can block anything from a {{L|goblin}} axe to {{L|dragon|dragonfire}}.

== Weapon skills ==

'''Weapon skills''' are associated with the use of a particular {{L|weapon}} type, even if that weapon type is "thrown {{L|vomit}}" in adventure mode. The name of many of these skills is dependent on species: a dwarven spear user will be known as a 'Speardwarf'.
:* Axeman
:* Blowgunner
:* Bowman
:* Crossbowman or Marksdwarf
:* Hammerman
:* Knife User
:* Lasher
:* Maceman
:* Misc. Object User
:* Pikeman
:* Spearman
:* Swordsman
:* Thrower

'''Axeman''' skill allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.

'''Blowgunner''' allows characters to use blowguns more effectively.

'''Bowman''' skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.

'''Crossbowman''' skill allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.

'''Hammerman''' skill allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.

'''Knife User''' skill allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.

'''Lasher''' skill allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.

'''Maceman''' skill allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.

'''Misc. Object User''' allows characters to use objects like tables and chairs more effectively as weapons. In fortress mode, this skill tends to increase when dwarves tantrum and break some heads with a +Granite Throne+. It also is used with shields, making it useful if a military dwarf is disarmed (either literally or not).

'''Pikeman''' skill allows characters to use pikes more effectively.

'''Spearman''' skill allows characters to use spears more effectively.

'''Swordsman''' skill allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

'''Thrower''' skill allows characters to throw miscellaneous objects more effectively.

{{skills}}

v0.31:Bronze

2011-01-23T05:41:16Z

Eepkeep: fixing outdated info

{{quality|Exceptional|01:54, 18 August 2010 (UTC)}}{{Alloy|name=Bronze|color=6:4:0|color1=7:3:0|color2=6:4:0
|uses=
* {{L|weapon|Melee Weapons}}
* {{L|Crossbow}}s
* {{L|Bolt}}s
* {{L|Pick}}s
* {{L|Armor}}
|recipe=
* 1 {{L|tin}} {{L|bar}}
* 1 {{L|copper}} {{L|bar}}
- or -
* 1 {{L|cassiterite}}
* 1 {{L|copper}} {{L|ore}}
|properties=
* {{L|Material value}} 5
}}{{av}}

'''Bronze''' is an alloy of tin and copper. Bronze produces better blunt weapons than pure {{L|iron}}, but remains inferior in regards to edged weapons and armor. Bronze can also be used to make {{L|furniture}} and ''other objects'' at a {{L|metalsmith's forge}}.

Bronze can be made at the {{L|Smelter}} or {{L|Magma smelter}} using one of the following recipes:

*{{L|Tin}} bar + {{L|Copper}} bar
*{{L|Cassiterite}} + ({{L|Native copper}} or {{L|Malachite}} or {{L|Tetrahedrite}})

Bronze has a {{L|value}} of 5 and uses the same ingredients as {{L|fine pewter}} (which also has a value of 5). If you find yourself short of {{L|tin}}, use this metal to make your objects of art instead of using {{L|fine pewter}}.

{{gamedata}}
{{metals}}

v0.31:Metal

2011-01-23T05:37:26Z

Eepkeep: Cleaning up some outdated info

{{quality|Exceptional|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
'''Metal''' is a {{L|material}} extracted from {{L|ore}} at a {{L|smelter}}, turning the ore into '''bars''' of pure metal. (One {{L|adamantine|special metal}} becomes {{L|wafer}}s instead of bars.) It is sometimes combined with other materials to form an '''alloy''' metal, which is also measured by the bar. An alloy usually improves on the properties of its components to give more uses or increased {{L|Item value|value}}. The metal bars resulting from {{L|smelting}} are used to make items such as {{L|weapon}}s, {{L|armor}}, {{L|furniture}}, and {{L|crafts}} at a {{L|Metalsmith's forge|forge}}.

Smelting pure ores into the corresponding bars raises the base value from that of stone (3) to that of bars (5). This value is then multiplied against the {{L|value#Material multipliers|material multiplier}} of the metal to give the final value for the bar.

==Alloys==
There are only eleven pure metals in Dwarf Fortress (plus a twelfth {{L|Adamantine|special metal}}). Many of these can be mixed together to create '''alloys''' of one type or another, of which there are another fourteen. In some cases making alloys will result in an overall increase in value, or the resultant alloy will be more powerful when used to forge weapons or armor, though many alloys result in no overall increase in utility or {{L|Wealth|created wealth}}. (These increases in value can be compared in the "Difference" column of the below table.)

The main use of these alloys is to allow you to stretch any useful metals you have too few of or to create items with distinct colors (for instance, {{L|rose gold}} is {{L|Color schemes|magenta}}) for furniture, color-coding rooms or levers, or artistic constructions (including {{L|floor}} mosaics). In some cases ({{L|bronze}}, for example) an additional benefit is reduced fuel consumption, as you can create multiple bars of some alloys directly from raw ores with only one {{L|smelter}} task, bypassing the need to first make bars of the pure metals (and thus using only one fuel unit to produce multiple bars). The number of bars used to create an alloy always equals the number of bars produced: the number of bars input equals the number of bars of output.



== List of metals ==

===Pure Metals===

{{DF2010 metal table head}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Adamantine|color={{Tile|≡|3:1}}{{Tile|‼|3:3:1}}3:3:1|source={{L|Raw adamantine}}|notes=Can be used to forge anything except beds; Blades are 10x sharper than any other material|soliddensity=0.200|mp=25000|val=300|valinc=+50|impactyield=5.00|impactfracture=5.00|impactelasticity=0|shearyield=5000|shearfracture=5000|shearelasticity=0
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Aluminum|color={{Tile|≡|7:1}}{{Tile|‼|7:7:1}}7:7:1|source={{L|Native aluminum}}|notes=|soliddensity=2.70|mp=11188|val=40|valinc=+0|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1421|shearyield=20|shearfracture=50|shearelasticity=77
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Bismuth|color={{Tile|≡|5:1}}{{Tile|‼|5:5:1}}5:5:1|source={{L|Bismuthinite}}|notes=Only useful for alloying into {{L|bismuth bronze}}|soliddensity=9.78|mp=10488|val=2|valinc=+1|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=3484|shearyield=30|shearfracture=50|shearelasticity=250
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Copper|color={{Tile|≡|6:0}}{{Tile|‼|6:4:0}}6:4:0|source={{L|Native copper}}, {{L|Malachite}}, {{L|Tetrahedrite}}|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, and picks|soliddensity=8.93|mp=11952|val=2|valinc=+0, +0, -1*|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=771|shearyield=70|shearfracture=220|shearelasticity=145
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Gold|color={{Tile|≡|6:1}}{{Tile|‼|6:6:1}}6:6:1|source={{L|Native gold}}|notes=|soliddensity=19.32|mp=11915|val=30|valinc=+0|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=50|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=185
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Iron|color={{Tile|≡|0:1}}{{Tile|‼|0:7:1}}0:7:1|source={{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, {{L|Magnetite}}|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, picks, and {{L|anvil}}s|soliddensity=7.85|mp=12768|val=10|valinc=+2|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=635|shearyield=130|shearfracture=200|shearelasticity=159
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Lead|color={{Tile|≡|0:1}}{{Tile|‼|0:7:1}}0:7:1|source={{L|Galena}}|notes=|soliddensity=11.34|mp=10589|val=2|valinc=-3*|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=2348|shearyield=10|shearfracture=12|shearelasticity=179
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Nickel|color={{Tile|≡|7:0}}{{Tile|‼|7:3:0}}7:3:0|source={{L|Garnierite}}|notes=|soliddensity=8.80|mp=12619|val=2|valinc=+0|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=660|shearyield=20|shearfracture=160|shearelasticity=26
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Platinum|color={{Tile|≡|7:1}}{{Tile|‼|7:7:1}}7:7:1|source={{L|Native platinum}}|notes=|soliddensity=21.40|mp=13182|val=40|valinc=+0|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=470|shearyield=100|shearfracture=200|shearelasticity=164
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Silver|color={{Tile|≡|7:1}}{{Tile|‼|7:7:1}}7:7:1|source={{L|Native silver}}, {{L|Horn silver}}, {{L|Galena}} (50%), {{L|Tetrahedrite}} (20%) |notes=Can be used to forge melee weapons and ammunition|soliddensity=10.49|mp=11731|val=10|valinc=+0, +0, +5*, +7*|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1080|shearyield=100|shearfracture=170|shearelasticity=333
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Tin|color={{Tile|≡|7:0}}{{Tile|‼|7:3:0}}7:3:0|source={{L|Cassiterite}}|notes=|soliddensity=7.28|mp=10417|val=2|valinc=+0|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1862|shearyield=12|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=66
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Zinc|color={{Tile|≡|7:0}}{{Tile|‼|7:3:0}}7:3:0|source={{L|Sphalerite}}|notes=|soliddensity=7.13|mp=10755|val=2|valinc=+0|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1542|shearyield=50|shearfracture=150|shearelasticity=116
}}

|}

===Alloys===
''(Unless specified, ores of the ingredients may be used instead of bars for alloy reactions)''
{{DF2010 metal table head}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Billon|color={{Tile|≡|7:0}}{{Tile|‼|7:3:0}}7:3:0|source={{L|Silver}} + {{L|Copper}}|notes=Can be made with {{L|Tetrahedrite}} or {{L|Galena}} instead of {{L|Silver}} for a high value reaction. |soliddensity=8.93|val=6|valinc=+0|mp=11952|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=771|shearyield=70|shearfracture=220|shearelasticity=145
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Bismuth bronze|color={{Tile|≡|6:1}}{{Tile|‼|6:6:1}}6:6:1|source=1 {{L|Tin}} + 2 {{L|Copper}} + 1 {{L|Bismuth}} '''!'''|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, and picks|soliddensity=8.25|val=6|valinc=+4|mp=11868|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=137|shearfracture=241|shearelasticity=200
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Black bronze|color={{Tile|≡|5:0}}{{Tile|‼|5:6:0}}5:6:0|source=2 {{L|Copper}} + 1 {{L|Silver}} + 1 {{L|Gold}} '''!'''|notes=|soliddensity=8.93|val=11|valinc=+0|mp=11952|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=771|shearyield=70|shearfracture=220|shearelasticity=145
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Brass|color={{Tile|≡|6:1}}{{Tile|‼|6:6:1}}6:6:1|source={{L|Zinc}} + {{L|Copper}}|notes=|soliddensity=8.55|val=7|valinc=+5|mp=11656|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=200|shearfracture=550|shearelasticity=200
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Bronze|color={{Tile|≡|6:0}}{{Tile|‼|6:4:0}}6:4:0|source={{L|Tin}} + {{L|Copper}}|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, and picks|soliddensity=8.25|val=5|valinc=+3|mp=11868|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=137|shearfracture=241|shearelasticity=200
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Electrum|color={{Tile|≡|6:1}}{{Tile|‼|6:6:1}}6:6:1|source={{L|Silver}} + {{L|Gold}}|notes=Can be made with {{L|Tetrahedrite}} or {{L|Galena}} instead of {{L|Silver}} for a high value reaction.|soliddensity=8.65|val=20|valinc=+0|mp=11828|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=50|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=185
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Fine pewter|color={{Tile|≡|7:1}}{{Tile|‼|7:7:1}}7:7:1|source=3 {{L|Tin}} + 1 {{L|Copper}}|notes=|soliddensity=7.28|val=5|valinc=+3|mp=10417|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1862|shearyield=12|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=66
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Lay pewter|color={{Tile|≡|3:0}}{{Tile|‼|3:7:0}}3:7:0|source=2 {{L|Tin}} + 1 {{L|Copper}} + 1 {{L|Lead}} '''!'''|notes=|soliddensity=7.28|val=3|valinc=+1|mp=10417|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1862|shearyield=12|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=66
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Nickel silver|color={{Tile|≡|7:1}}{{Tile|‼|7:7:1}}7:7:1|source= 2 {{L|Nickel}} + 1 {{L|Copper}} + 1 {{L|Zinc}} '''!'''|notes=|soliddensity=8.65|val=3|valinc=+1|mp=11620|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=20|shearfracture=160|shearelasticity=26
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Pig iron|color={{Tile|≡|0:1}}{{Tile|‼|0:7:1}}0:7:1|source={{L|Iron}} + {{L|flux}} stone + {{L|fuel}} '''!'''|notes=Only used to make {{L|steel}}|soliddensity=7.85|val=10|valinc=+0|mp=12106|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=635|shearyield=130|shearfracture=200|shearelasticity=159
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Rose gold|color={{Tile|≡|5:1}}{{Tile|‼|5:5:1}}5:5:1|source=3 {{L|Gold}} + 1 {{L|Copper}} '''!'''|notes=|soliddensity=19.32|val=23|valinc=+0|mp=11915|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=600|shearyield=50|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=185
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Steel|color={{Tile|≡|0:1}}{{Tile|‼|0:7:1}}0:7:1|source={{L|Iron}} + {{L|Pig iron}} + {{L|flux}} stone + {{L|fuel}} '''!'''|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, picks, and {{L|anvil}}s|soliddensity=7.85|val=30|valinc=+20|mp=12718|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=675|shearyield=520|shearfracture=860|shearelasticity=500
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Sterling silver|color={{Tile|≡|7:1}}{{Tile|‼|7:7:1}}7:7:1|source=3 {{L|Silver}} + 1 {{L|Copper}} '''!'''|notes=|soliddensity=10.49|val=8|valinc=+0|mp=11602|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1080|shearyield=100|shearfracture=170|shearelasticity=333
}}

{{DF2010 metal table row|name=Trifle pewter|color={{Tile|≡|7:0}}{{Tile|‼|7:3:0}}7:3:0|source=2 {{L|Tin}} + 1 {{L|Copper}}|notes=|react=|soliddensity=7.28|val=4|valinc=+2|mp=10417|impactyield=1.08|impactfracture=1.08|impactelasticity=1862|shearyield=12|shearfracture=100|shearelasticity=66
}}

|}
''Legend:''
:* '''Tile Color''' corresponds to how items made from that metal are displayed in game, foreground and background colors.
:*'''Reaction''' indicates the basic recipe for an alloy - this does not include the {{L|fuel}} used in that creation. See the article for that alloy or {{L|smelting}} for possible alternatives.
::'''!''' - ''You can use only {{L|bar}}s of metal in this reaction, not ores.
:*'''Density''' is used to determine the different weight of finished objects.
:*'''Melting point''' is used to determine if a material is {{L|magma-safe}} or not: magma is 12000°U.
:*'''{{L|Material value}}''' is what the base value of an object made of this metal is multiplied by to determine its worth.
:*'''Value difference''' indicates the difference between the average {{L|value}} of the required bars of metals vs. the value of the resulting bars of alloy - what went in vs. what comes out, measured per bar. "+0" indicates that the resulting alloy is a perfectly average value of the component metals. For pure metals, this indicates the difference in value between the metal and the ore, separated with commas in cases where multiple ore values differ. Values marked with an asterisk denote ores that can yield multiple metals; on average, the difference in value from smelting either {{L|tetrahedrite}} or {{L|galena}} is +1.

== Weapon & Armor Quality ==

{{DF2010 material metal table head}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Adamantine|color={{Tile|/|3:1}}3:3:1|source={{L|Raw adamantine}}|notes=Can be used to forge anything except beds; Blades are ten times as sharp as any other material aside from obsidian|soliddensity=0.200|mp=25000|val=300|valinc=+50|impactyield=5000|impactfracture=5000|impactelasticity=0|shearyield=5000|shearfracture=5000|shearelasticity=0
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Steel|color={{Tile|/|0:1}}0:7:1|source={{L|Iron}} + {{L|Pig iron}} + {{L|flux}} stone + {{L|fuel}} '''!'''|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, picks, and {{L|anvil}}s|soliddensity=7.85|val=30|valinc=+20|mp=12718|impactyield=1505|impactfracture=2520|impactelasticity=940|shearyield=430|shearfracture=720|shearelasticity=215
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Bismuth bronze|color={{Tile|/|6:1}}6:6:1|source=2 {{L|Copper}} + 1 {{L|Tin}} + 1 {{L|Bismuth}} '''!'''|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, and picks|soliddensity=8.25|val=6|valinc=+4|mp=11868|impactyield=602|impactfracture=843|impactelasticity=547|shearyield=172|shearfracture=241|shearelasticity=156
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Bronze|color={{Tile|/|6:0}}6:4:0|source={{L|Tin}} + {{L|Copper}}|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, and picks|soliddensity=8.25|val=5|valinc=+3|mp=11868|impactyield=602|impactfracture=843|impactelasticity=547|shearyield=172|shearfracture=241|shearelasticity=156
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Iron|color={{Tile|/|0:1}}0:7:1|source={{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, {{L|Magnetite}}|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, picks, and {{L|anvil}}s|soliddensity=7.85|mp=12768|val=10|valinc=+2|impactyield=542|impactfracture=1080|impactelasticity=319|shearyield=155|shearfracture=310|shearelasticity=189
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Copper|color={{Tile|/|6:0}}6:4:0|source={{L|Native copper}}, {{L|Malachite}}, {{L|Tetrahedrite}}|notes=Can be used to forge all weapons, armor, ammunition, and picks|soliddensity=8.93|mp=11952|val=2|valinc=+0, +0, -1*|impactyield=245|impactfracture=770|impactelasticity=175|shearyield=70|shearfracture=220|shearelasticity=145
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Silver|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source={{L|Native silver}}, {{L|Horn silver}}, {{L|Galena}} (50%), {{L|Tetrahedrite}} (20%) |notes=Can be used to forge melee weapons and ammunition|soliddensity=10.49|mp=11731|val=10|valinc=+0, +0, +5*, +7*|impactyield=350|impactfracture=595|impactelasticity=350|shearyield=100|shearfracture=170|shearelasticity=333
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Bone|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source=Creatures|notes=Can be used to forge crossbows, ammunition and some armor|soliddensity=0.50|mp=NONE(burn at 10250)|val=1|valinc=+?, +?, +?, +?|impactyield=200|impactfracture=200|impactelasticity=100|shearyield=115|shearfracture=130|shearelasticity=100
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Wood|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source=Trees|notes=Can be used to forge crossbows, ammunition and some armor and weapons|soliddensity=0.50|mp=NONE(burn at 10250)|val=1|valinc=+?, +?, +?, +?|impactyield=10|impactfracture=10|impactelasticity=1000|shearyield=40|shearfracture=40|shearelasticity=1000
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Shell|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source=Creatures|notes=Can be used to forge some armor|soliddensity=0.50|mp=NONE(burn at 10250)|val=1|valinc=+?, +?, +?, +?|impactyield=200|impactfracture=200|impactelasticity=100|shearyield=115|shearfracture=130|shearelasticity=100
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Plant cloth|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source=Plants|notes=Can be used to make clothing|soliddensity=1.52|mp=NONE(burn at 10250)|val=1|valinc=+?, +?, +?, +?|impactyield=10|impactfracture=10|impactelasticity=100000|shearyield=600|shearfracture=600|shearelasticity=100000
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Silk cloth|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source=Silk|notes=Can be used to make clothing|soliddensity=0.50|mp=NONE(burn at 10250)|val=1|valinc=+?, +?, +?, +?|impactyield=10|impactfracture=10|impactelasticity=100000|shearyield=1150|shearfracture=1200|shearelasticity=100000
}}

{{DF2010 material metal table row|name=Leather|color={{Tile|/|7:1}}7:7:1|source=Creatures|notes=Can be used to make armor|soliddensity=0.50|mp=NONE(burn at 10250)|val=1|valinc=+?, +?, +?, +?|impactyield=10|impactfracture=10|impactelasticity=50000|shearyield=25|shearfracture=25|shearelasticity=50000
}}

|}
*''Combat information'' is used internally by the game to determine the combat properties of weapons and armor made from this metal:
:'''Density''': Used in conjunction with other factors - heavier weapons (higher numbers) hit with more force, light weapons tend to have less penetration. Value shown here is g/cm3, which is the raw value divided by 103
:'''Impact yield''': Used for blunt-force combat; ''higher'' is better. This is the raw value divided by 103 (i.e., kPa).
:'''Impact fracture''': Used for blunt-force combat; ''higher'' is better. This is the raw value divided by 103 (i.e., kPa).
:'''Impact elasticity''': Used for blunt-force combat; ''lower'' is better. This is the raw value.
:'''Shear yield''': Used for cutting calculations in combat; ''higher'' is better. This is the raw value divided by 103 (i.e., kPa).
:'''Shear fracture''': Used for cutting calculations in combat; ''higher'' is better. This is the raw value divided by 103 (i.e., kPa).
:'''Shear elasticity''': Used for cutting calculations in combat; ''lower'' is better. This is the raw value.

*General Term Explanations (From Wikipedia)
:'''Yield Strength''' - The stress at which material strain changes from elastic deformation to plastic deformation, causing it to deform permanently.
:'''Fracture Strength''' - The stress coordinate on the stress-strain curve at the point of rupture.

:'''Stress''' - Force per area = F/A
:'''Strain''' - Deformation of a solid due to stress = Stress/Young's Modulus

So...
:Explanations!
::'''Yield Strength''' is the amount of stress required to permanently deform (bend) a material (plastic deformation)
::'''Fracture Strength''' is the amount of stress required to permanently break (rupture) a material
::'''Elasticity''' (or ''IMPACT_STRAIN_AT_YIELD'' in RAWs) is the amount of deformation (bending) that occurs at the yield point
:Implications to Dwarf Fortress Combat
::Yield combined with Elasticity can tell what a material will do under stress (be it from a hammer, axe, or arrow)
::Higher yield means that it takes more stress to deform
::Lower elasticity means that it will deform less when stress is applied

'''Preliminary Combat Testing & Analysis'''

Adamantine and Steel take first and second place respectively, with Iron the third best material in the game. Beyond which, bronze is in a close tie with copper as to being the second worst material. As in older versions, silver continues to hold steady as the worst material available (no longer beneficial with wooden training weapons being available now) in regards to edged weaponry. Additionally, with regards to blunt weapons almost all of the non-adamantine materials perform equally well, with a very slight edge towards steel and silver. Here is the thread with the details:

http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=53571.0

Keep in mind with how unbelievably complicated this system is nothing should be taken as word of law yet.

{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#999999"
!
! Best
! Better
! Good
! Fair
! Poor
! Terrible
! Notes

|-
| Armor
| Adamantine
| Steel
| Iron
| Bronze, Bismuth Bronze
| Copper
| Silver
|

|-
| Edge Damage
| Adamantine (worst for missiles)
| Steel
| Iron
| Bronze, Bismuth Bronze
| Copper
| Silver
| For piercing iron armor, copper is better than bronze. For piercing copper or bronze armor, bronze is better than copper.
|-
| Blunt Damage
| Steel, Silver
| Copper, Bismuth Bronze, Bronze, Iron
| ---
| ---
| ---
| Adamantine
| All six non-adamantine metals perform nearly identically. Steel has a slightly higher rate of critical wounds, while silver is slightly more likely to penetrate armor.

|}

{{Category|Metals}}{{Category|Materials}}

v0.31:Iron

2011-01-22T14:50:16Z

Eepkeep:

{{quality|Exceptional|18:30, 6 January 2011 (UTC)}}{{Metal|name=Iron|color=0:7:1
|ore=
* {{L|Hematite}}
* {{L|Limonite}}
* {{L|Magnetite}}
|uses=
* Make {{L|pig iron}} at {{L|smelter}}
* Make {{L|steel}} at {{L|smelter}}
* {{L|weapon|Melee Weapons}}
* {{L|Crossbow}}s
* {{L|Bolt}}s
* {{L|Pick}}s
* {{L|Armor}}
* {{L|Anvil}}s
* {{L|Metalsmith's forge|Metal crafting}}
|properties=

* {{L|Material value}} 10
}}{{av}}

Iron is an important resource for a fortress, as an often-plentiful material that can be used to make just about anything necessary, from weapons to {{L|furniture}} to {{L|trade good|trade goods}}. Iron is also a necessary ingredient in the production of {{L|steel}}, the best non-spoiler metal in the game for {{L|weapon}}s and {{L|armor}}. If you are unable to produce enough steel in your fort, then the next best metal for military purposes is iron.

The three ores of iron, which are {{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Magnetite}}, and {{L|Limonite}}, can only be found in {{L|sedimentary}} layers, with the exception of {{L|hematite}}, which can occasionally be found in {{L|igneous extrusive}} layers.

{{gamedata}}
{{metals}}

v0.31 Talk:Iron

2011-01-22T13:20:25Z

Eepkeep: Created page with '== Iron or bronze? == It says that bronze is superior to iron when it comes to combat, but I have conducted repeated tests with armor of both materials (using both blunt and edg…'

== Iron or bronze? ==

It says that bronze is superior to iron when it comes to combat, but I have conducted repeated tests with armor of both materials (using both blunt and edged weaponry) in the arena which show otherwise. Anyone care to show some evidence in support of this statement or should I edit it? --[[User:Eepkeep|Eepkeep]] 13:20, 22 January 2011 (UTC)