Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

40d Talk:Site finder

2008-10-08T20:50:23Z

Heron:

== Multiple Results? ==
Given that the search covers the entire map, is there a way to see all of the results instead of only one? Also, is the result the first one found, the "best" one, or the closest one to the cursor's location at search time? <br/>—[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 23:40, 12 August 2008 (EDT)

:It's probably the first one found. I haven't seen a difference based on cursor location - a search with all features n/a from the top left and from bottom right gave same result. There isn't a way to see all results. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 00:30, 13 August 2008 (EDT)

== Area searched ==

The statement in the main article that the site finder will only take into account current latitude/longitude is incorrect. The bug isn't that crisp. Generally, it'll prefer sites from the quadrant or so nearest your cursor, rather than sites on the far side of the map. I generally find that four searches, one in each quadrant, will find whatever sites on the map best correspond with the criteria I'm seeking.

The best way to find different locations is to move the cursor AND change an arbitrary setting you don't care much about, like swapping "bottomless pit" for "chasm."
:I have done a few searches and there were two indicators that it really only uses one latitude: I only got results on the latitude the cursor was on initially and the finder counts up to one extent of the map (129 for as 129x129 map). I tested again today and indeed it is wrong - the finder searches the whole map, it seems. I'll correct my edit.

== Bauxite ==

I wish Bauxite was an option. What I need in a site is Water+Magma+Flux+Bauxite, but since I can't require the last one and can't scan through multiple suggestions, this doesn't help much.
--[[User:Macdjord|Macdjord]] 15:01, 8 October 2008 (EDT)
:Try asking on the forums. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 16:27, 8 October 2008 (EDT)
:Or mod bauxite to be more common. --[[User:Heron|Heron]] 16:50, 8 October 2008 (EDT)

40d:How to safely start fortress mode

2008-09-21T16:14:09Z

Heron:

This guide was compiled by Yanlin (And the users) for the users. Basically it contains Yanlin's personal advice with the advice of others taking a higher rank.

The page has not yet been completely made wiki friendly and it is a WIP.

=The guide=

All advice in the replies will be summed up here in user friendly bits.

==Dwarf jobs and happiness==

Don't try to take one of everything at the start. All jobs that will be run almost constantly can just be done by an [[Immigration|immigrant]]. For example, start with one [[mason]] working like a madman churning out [[door]]s and such. Then when you get your first wave, start at least 4 mason [[workshop]]s and make them churn out standard [[room]]s. If you can make an apartment complex instead of a huge [[Barracks|barracks]] room, you get yourself a good [[Thought|happy bonus]]. -Yanlin
* Legendary dining room is all you need. It is so useful it makes rooms better than barracks merely a roleplay thing. Also, dabbling masons should work on blocks, not furniture. -Someone-else

Legendary [[dining room]]s: Any room that's about 5x5, fully engraved and has maybe 4 tables and chairs will be legendary from my experience. I usually take a proficient [[engraver]] with me on the start to speed it up and it also helps if he is the only one doing the engravings. Legendary dining rooms can make dwarves forget even the most horrible things! Even death. -Yanlin
* Average artifact in a small plain room with crappy tables and thrones counts as legendary dining room too. -Someone-else

A fort divided does not stand. Make sure your dwarves don't run around like idiots. -Yanlin

[[Cave adaptation]]: I set up a simple system. There is only one exit out of my apartment complex. My apartment complex spans multiple [[Z-axis|floors]] and each one has the entire entrance in light state. How? Well light passes through [[Floor#Construction|floors]]! Go figure. This is how I do it. I [[channel[[ out the entire entrance from the top to the level I am currently building in. I [[Wall#Construction|wall]] it in on the top to prevent [[goblin]]s and other nasty stuff from jumping or firing in. I create a small "maintenance" tunnel going near the channeling area so that the channelers have access to it. It's simple really. When the channeling grinds to a halt, pave all the channeled areas with floors. I never tested [[wood]] floors. (What kind of idiot wastes wood on anything but [[bin]]s, [[bucket]]s, [[barrel]]s and [[bed]]s?) -Yanlin

[[Stone]] [[stockpile]]s: NO! NOT A CHANCE! But if you set up a special workshop for churning out expensive items, set up a stockpile that accepts only that one kind of expensive rock. Setting up a small stone stockpile under your masonry workshop is a good idea though. -Yanlin

[[Hauling|Haulers]]: Have at least 5-10 free peasants for hauling. Usually my fortress can run on just my 7 starting dwarves. I can easily supply 60 dwarves worth of [[food]] and [[Alcohol|booze]] while the rest do the odd job here and there. -Yanlin

Micromanagement: Only your core dwarves need it. The rest can just do anything they want. -Yanlin

[[Fishing]]: Not worth it. Only the [[shell]]s are worth it. -Yanlin

* However, fishing can give you lots and lots of fishbones, which can then be made into bone bolts that Dwarves use for practice. Very useful on maps without trees. - HisMajestyBOB

[[Ambusher|Hunting]]: Worth it. But at least give your [[hunter]] some [[armor]]. -Yanlin
* Do not waste starting dwarf on it. This is job for immigrants. -Someone-else

[[Farm plot|Farm]] size: 10x10 of [[plump helmet]]s without fertilizing will feed 500 dwarves. A 5x5 field WITH fertilizing will feed about 500 dwarves. Do the math. (Rough estimates. Untested.) -Yanlin

[[Cloth]]: [[Pig tail]]s will provide you all the cloth you need and booze too. -Yanlin

Buying your first [[anvil]]: Mugging. No not robbing the [[Trading|merchant]]. Making tons and tons of stone [[Goblet|mugs]]! You'd be amazed how much you can buy with a few bins worth of mugs. Each stone gives 3 mugs and a skilled mason can make enough to... Well... Buy anything you need. Remember, [[Craftsdwarf|craftsdwarves]] are GOOD! -Yanlin
* Mechanic is the way to go. Not only are mechanisms single items (less hauling) but also aren't useless. Prepared food is very good too, though it needs 3 dwarves working (planter, brewer and cook. Combining them into one dwarf is bad thing). Craftdwarves aren't really useful at start and are almost totally useless after that. -Someone-else
* Scrape up enough to buy at least 2 cheese then cook the cheese. Use the cooked cheese to buy the rest of the cheese. Cook the rest of the cheese. Buy out the rest of the caravan with the new meal. -Ikko

[[Nobles]]: Give them a huge [[bedroom]], huge [[office]] and cram it up with some decorations and [[engraving]]s. That should keep em happy for a while. -Yanlin
* If you happen to have artifact furniture just build one room of average size, but few beds, tables and thrones in it and make it a "noble room". Artifact will boost its value enough for all dwarves who aren't kings unless it's made from one log, stone, bone, shell or the like. -Someone-else

==Pets and food animals==

[[Cat|Cats]]. DO NOT DO IT! IT IS NOT WORTH IT! -Yanlin
* Wrong. Having one cat will not only boost dwarves' mood (no [[vermin|rats]] and other ugly crap) but will also make your food safer. -Someone-else

[[Dog|Dogs]]. DO IT! IT IS WORTH IT! -Yanlin

Shamelessly kill off any newborn pets to prevent overpopulation. Especially useful on cats. -HisMajestyBOB
* Or put them in a [[cage]] as an [[butchering|emergency food source]]. Caged animals do not breed, block paths or waste CPU power on pathfinding. -Someone-else

Dogs give a lot of bang for your buck.
They are a good source of [[food|meat]]. You just pay 16 bucks for them upon embark, if I remember correctly. This might be a little bit more than the price of 5 meat (which is 10 bucks) but you have to take into account that they get offspring, son that 20 dogs of the first year might turn into 30 dogs or more in the second year.
when you slaughter them each dog gives you 5 meat, 5 [[bones]], a [[skin|hide]] and a [[skull]]. This as well as the fact that dogs, in contrast to meat don't rot, makes it useful to buy at least some of them upon start. -Proteus

Dogs are better than cats. Dogs breed just as fast and you can have an army of wardogs slaughtering everything, not to mention they make an incredible [[thief]] defense. Simply put a meeting zone across the entrance to your fort, then you'll have all eleventy billion dogs wandering around in that meeting zone. Any thief is instantly turned into [[kobold]] kibble, and they're quite handly at dealing with smaller sieges too.
Also you can slaughter dogs at whim, whereas you can't slaughter an owned pet. -Hyndis

==Defense==

An army of peasants is a good thing if you think about it. Churn out a few [[crossbow|crossbows]] and [[ammo|bolts]]. Even copper weapons can take down most sieges you will probably get. -Yanlin

[[Goblin]] babysnatchers and Kobold thieves. One dog on a [[chain]] will kill them on contact. Especially a war dog. I usually buy a few chains at the embarkment. -Yanlin

Security. [[traps|Stonefall traps]] at the entrance help. After you need more than that, you probably have more than that. Make weapon traps that shoot or better yet, station [[marksdwarf|marksdwarves]] in [[fortifications]] outside your fort. Make sure to put them in a [[tower]]. -Yanlin

You might want to bring along a rope and then wall in your fortress entrance so there is only one path. Then set a dog on the rope (Not a cat, those are more useful against vermin) beside the door to stop the sneaky sorts. -Gamerofthegame

Weapon traps and marksdwarves = survival for for most -wendigo

==Production and efficiency==

[[Glass]]. You want [[sand]] on your map. It is awesome advice to have sand on your map. Remember. Glass is EASY to make especially if you can get a source of [[fuel]] for your forge. You can make almost everything out of glass. If you can get a [[magma glass furnace]], you win. -Yanlin

[[Iron]]. You want it. If you didn't find iron, I suggest just starting over in another location or if you feel determined, buy it. But it can get costly. -Yanlin

Common [[barrel]] exploit. Each piece of meat and [[alcohol|booze]] you bring with you, will give you one free barrel. 5 of each can fit in a barrel and if you take 6 of something, you get 2 barrels. Etc. -Flok Speargrabber

[[turtle|Turtles]] are AWESOME! -Flok Speargrabber
* Be sure to disable bones and [[shells]] in your early outdoor refuse [[stockpile]] so you don't waste turtles' awesomeness. -Someone-else

Bringing a few [[seeds]] of everything along with you is wise. (I suggest bringing plenty of [[plump helmet]] and [[pig tail]] seeds.) -Flok Speargrabber
* The second advice is bad. Just start your [[farm plot|farm]] soon and brew what you can and you will have more seeds than need. As for bringing everything: 1 seed each is enough. [[Rock nuts]] are useless before you have food chain and plenty of bags. -Someone-else

[[immigration|Immigrants]] are good for [[fishing]] that pesky [[carp]]. (Well not really. But they are good for fishing nonetheless.) -blakyoshi7
:If your dwarves need to go to water that contains carp, longnose gar, or other ravenous river creatures, any goon given a crossbow and stationed at least one tile away from the river can keep a fair region of river clear of animals, given a little while. Remember to turn off chasing so they don't run up to the river and get dragged in. -[[User:Heron|Heron]]

Farming. The best source of food. If you don't want to "Cheat" you can just plant a big plump helmet farm. Make sure you don't cook it all though. Make sure at least some goes into booze. Booze and eating raw returns seeds. [[Cooking]] destroys them. Alternatively you can cook the booze. That creates a cheatish infinate supply of food. -Yanlin

[[Wood]]. You don't really NEED a heavily forested map. Assuming you will make about 100 [[beds]] during 3 years and some barrels, [[bucket|buckets]] and [[bins]], you only need about 500 [[tree|trees]]. Might sound like not enough on a non heavily forested map right? Well wrong. Trees DO grow back. Even a lightly forested map has at least 200 trees from what I could tell. -Yanlin
* If you plan on doing a lot of metalsmithing on a map with no magma, or a lot of clear glass or soap, you will need a lot of wood for charcoal and ash. -Bouchart

Pig tails are good to bring, as a source of booze that your dwarfs won't accidentally eat up before it's turned into it's sweet elixir of happiness. -Overdose

Pigtail makes great booze. It helps keep your dwarves happy and avoid the "Tired of same booze" unhappy thought. -motorbitch

You need [[cloth]] only for [[strange mood|strange moods]]. You can easily buy all the cloth you need and have your [[farmer|farmers]] do more useful work. -motorbitch
* Wrong. Glass industry requires many bags. -Someone-else

Two humped camels are good for farming as they yield a lot. Consider this option to diversify your meals. Also helps if you want to avoid the booze food exploit.- motorbitch

Lopped off body parts create small bones that are rather useless. (Training bolts are never really useless as you should have too many bins anyway.) -motorbitch

You should only put a priority on [[Magma]] if you have the ability to make glass with it. If so, it should be one of your first things. -Gamerofthegame

Have your [[carpenter]](s) craft a steady flow of beds/barrels/bins -wendigo

Run a [[still]] nonstop. Get those seeds, distill that booze. -wendigo
* If you have many barrels filled with booze and no free ones just cook some beer biscuits. Not only they will make your dwarves happier but also will train your cook and let your brewer continue his work. Don't do this if you have no plants to brew. -Someone-else

Metalworking is desirable, but not crucial. -wendigo

I set every dwarf in the fortress to [[butcher]] and [[skin|tan]]. Its a very high priority job since the corpses and skins will rapidly decay, and by setting every single dwarf to be able to perform this task (skill doesn't matter, a dabbling dwarf does just as well as a legendary dwarf) there's a very high probability it will get done in time. If you have a lot of corpses to process, simply build a bunch of butcher and tanner workshops. -Hyndis

===Wood is useful for:===
[[Beds]] - [[Bins]] - [[Barrels]] - [[spike|Spikes]] - [[Screw pump|Pump parts]] - [[Windmill|Windmills]] and [[water]] wheels

-Flok Speargrabber

===Stone is good for:===

[[Statues]] - [[chest|Coffers]] - [[cabinet|Cabinets]] - [[Coffins]] - [[trade|Trade goods]] - [[Doors]] - [[Floodgates]] - [[chair|Chairs]] - [[table|Tables]] - [[Blocks]] for [[road|roads]] and [[floor|floors]] (More brick-y than block-y)

-Flok Speargrabber

===Metal is good for:===
[[Weapons]] - [[Armor ]] - Magma-safe pumps - Expensive statues - Noble orders, usually, unless they don't want a special metal item

-Flok Speargrabber

==Performance==

Cats are not as bad as they used to be. Now slaughtering the newborns is easy enough and with the new partial print feature, they are not the huge FPS problem they used to be. They are also, like dogs: a good source of meat and such. -Vaftrudner

Don't bother with clothes. They don't really do anything and lag your FPS because they get checked every moment. Your dwarves wont mind walking around nude and no one is going to judge them about it. (Politically it does not matter.) -motorbitch

Bring a cage. Just one. You can use it to stuff your excess creatures. Mainly anything outside two cats and maybe two dogs. -Gamerofthegame

==Special conditions==

You could bring five picks and 300 logs if you're on a treeless map. Just don't make stuff from wood if you can make them from something else. (Stockpile = bad) -Ashery

=Adding your own advice=

If you wish to add your own advice, do so in a grammatically correct manner. Links are not mandatory but desired. Remember to sign it with one space, a dash and then your name.

-NameHere

If you think the advice is poor, do not add it. The last thing Yanlin needs is more pruning of bad advice.

==Formatting==

Keep two lines of space after the advice above yours. Do not add it into the middle of the section.
Big advices deserve their own subcategory. But don't just sprinkle them around like an idiot.

Keep 3 lines of space under your advice to the next category.

All this formatting is needed so the guide does not become a hard to read wall of text.

=WIP=

This page still needs links to other articles. If you see a word or sentence that should be linked to a particular page, please add it. Make sure to tick the "This is a minor edit" button if you are not doing a big overhaul of the links.

{{Starting FAQ}}

40d Talk:Suicide booth

2008-08-21T01:22:08Z

Heron:

=== Not working? ===
I doubt this is working, since dwarves stand on levers when they pull them. I tried it and found that the Hammerer 'used' for this test never moved from the lever. I locked the door and starved him to death instead. :) --[[User:Caiburn|Caiburn]]

* Yeah, I had a similar issue when I had the brilliant notion to do something like this only with a tower and a floor hatch. Very disappointed when that fell through. Or didn't, as the case may be. Oh well. Still have a cool tower to lock my hammerer in, too. [[User:Neongrey|Neongrey]] 14:45, 20 August 2008 (EDT)

:: You can probably still manage something approximating a stone-fall trap -- take a hatch, a lever, two levels, and stack stone on top of the hatch. It might not kill them unless you use a few more levels, though... --[[User:Heron|Heron]] 21:22, 20 August 2008 (EDT)

40d:Irrigation

2008-08-14T05:08:09Z

Heron:

Irrigation is the process of making rocky ground suitable for [[farming]]. This is usually done by flooding it with [[water]]. Inside caves, [[rock]] cavern floor tiles that are covered with water instantly become muddy tiles, which you can then build farm plots on. There are many possible methods for getting the farm area muddy.

== Dryland farming: farming without irrigation ==

Some locations have layers of [[soil]] a few z-levels thick. It is not necessary to irrigate [[soil]] in order to grow crops on it; it is possible to build a farm plot directly on any soil tiles, although the dwarven crops such as [[plump helmet]]s can only be grown in a [[subterranean]] plot. In lowland areas, a farm plot built on any tile marked [[Outside]] can be used to grow outdoor crops such as [[prickle berry|prickle berries]].

== Reservoir irrigation ==

Dwarf Fortress uses realistic water dynamics, including measures of [[water depth]]. A depth of 7 is full, depths of 1 will evaporate, leaving the stone wet and thus suitable for farming. Your goal in irrigation is to get a section of ground to be 1's.

The reservoir method involves building a small reservoir between two [[floodgate|floodgates]] and a farming chamber at least 7 times as large as the reservoir. a reservoir of 10 tiles, for instance, can water a 7x10 chamber effectively. Water is let into the reservoir by lowering, then raising one floodgate. The other floodgate then releases the water into the farming chamber. It spreads around, then evaporates after becoming 1 deep.

Note that you can stack these over Z-levels by instead using [[Hatch|hatches]], or even [[Bridge|bridges]] -- in their default state, bridges will block water from travelling between levels, and the large surface area you can get this way can make the water spread over your farm area much faster than by using floodgates.

It is also possible to achieve the same result with a natural pond using the same technique. Doing so is easier in the short term but it is not advised if you want to keep replenishing your reservoir for other uses, such as [[well]](s), for natural ponds have a very finite amount of water available. On particular maps, natural ponds can replenish themselves at the beginning of each spring.

== Oldschool irrigation ==

# Dig from the [[farm plot]] to any source of water, but keep a single tile of [[wall]] between the newbuilt [[channel]] and the water. Also, [[dig]] a passage from the plot towards lower ground that'll serve as the water drain.
# Build a [[door]] or [[floodgate]], and three [[mechanism]]s.
# Place the door in the channel. The idea is that it'll block the water from coming through when closed.
# Build a [[lever]] and link it to the door or floodgate.
# Pull the lever so the door opens. Send a miner to dig that last wall keeping the water from rushing in. Alternatively, have the miner dig a channel on the last wall from the Z-level above. The miner will dig out the wall without actually having to stand in the way of the water.
# Ideally, here the miner will run like hell. The water is actually fairly slow.
# Use the lever to close the channel once you feel you've got enough water to spread over the area.
# Wait for water to drain out to at least 1/7 per tile. You can use channels, grates and hatches to speed up this process - all you actually need is for the water to have passed over the tile.
# Make farm.
# Harvest [[crops]] and produce [[food]]/other materials
# Cook food if necessary
# ???
# Profit!

== Pond irrigation ==

Dig a farm room, and dig a channel one Z-level above it, creating a hole down into the farm room. Create a [[zone]] on the hole, and make it a pond. Your dwarves will attempt to fill it with water carried in buckets. As they dump water in, it will muddy the farm room floor. After it has been sufficiently muddied, disable or remove the pond zone until you need to irrigate it again. Dwarves can build farm plots in 1 unit deep water.

NOTE: Even though it works, this is probably the slowest way to irrigate a room since dwarves only carry 1 unit of water per trip. Especially if you don't have a more than one or two idle dwarves and buckets, or if the water source is far away. It also probably wouldn't work very well on larger farm areas.

NOTE: Digging a channel from the surface will mark the tile below Outside. This means that cave plants will not grow there.

== Wave irrigation ==

Although seawater is unfit for carrying to your farm in a bucket, areas muddied by seawater seem to be farmable. My favorite method of achieving this is building a farm room under a beach and making a hole in its roof, closable with a hatch, to let waves in.

[[Category:Agriculture]]

40d:Irrigation

2008-08-14T05:05:53Z

Heron:

Irrigation is the process of making rocky ground suitable for [[farming]]. This is usually done by flooding it with [[water]]. Inside caves, [[rock]] cavern floor tiles that are covered with water instantly become muddy tiles, which you can then build farm plots on. There are many possible methods for getting the farm area muddy.

== Dryland farming: farming without irrigation ==

Some locations have layers of [[soil]] a few z-levels thick. It is not necessary to irrigate [[soil]] in order to grow crops on it; it is possible to build a farm plot directly on any soil tiles, although the dwarven crops such as [[plump helmet]]s can only be grown in a [[subterranean]] plot. In lowland areas, a farm plot built on any tile marked [[Outside]] can be used to grow outdoor crops such as [[prickle berry|prickle berries]].

== Reservoir irrigation ==

Dwarf Fortress uses realistic water dynamics, including measures of [[water depth]]. A depth of 7 is full, depths of 1 will evaporate, leaving the stone wet and thus suitable for farming. Your goal in irrigation is to get a section of ground to be 1's.

The reservoir method involves building a small reservoir between two [[floodgate|floodgates]] and a farming chamber at least 7 times as large as the reservoir. a reservoir of 10 tiles, for instance, can water a 7x10 chamber effectively. Water is let into the reservoir by lowering, then raising one floodgate. The other floodgate then releases the water into the farming chamber. It spreads around, then evaporates after becoming 1 deep.

Note that you can stack these over Z-levels by instead using [[Hatch|hatches]], or even [[Bridge|bridges]] -- in their default state, bridges will block water from travelling between levels, and the large surface area you can get this way can make the water spread over your farm area much faster than by using floodgates.

It is also possible to achieve the same result with a natural pond using the same technique. Doing so is easier in the short term but it is not advised if you want to keep replenishing your reservoir for other uses, such as [[well]](s), for natural ponds have a very finite amount of water available. On particular maps, natural ponds can replenish themselves at the beginning of each spring.

== Oldschool irrigation ==

# Dig from the [[farm plot]] to any source of water, but keep a single tile of [[wall]] between the newbuilt [[channel]] and the water. Also, [[dig]] a passage from the plot towards lower ground that'll serve as the water drain.
# Build a [[door]] or [[floodgate]], and three [[mechanism]]s.
# Place the door in the channel. The idea is that it'll block the water from coming through when closed.
# Build a [[lever]] and link it to the door or floodgate.
# Pull the lever so the door opens. Send a miner to dig that last wall keeping the water from rushing in. Alternatively, have the miner dig a channel on the last wall from the Z-level above. The miner will dig out the wall without actually having to stand in the way of the water.
# Ideally, here the miner will run like hell. The water is actually fairly slow.
# Use the lever to close the channel once you feel you've got enough water to spread over the area.
# Wait for water to drain out to at least 1/7 per tile. You can use channels, grates and hatches to speed up this process - all you actually need is for the water to have passed over the tile.
# Make farm.
# Harvest [[crops]] and produce [[food]]/other materials
# Cook food if necessary
# ???
# Profit!

== Pond irrigation ==

Dig a farm room, and dig a channel one Z-level above it, creating a hole down into the farm room. Create a [[zone]] on the hole, and make it a pond. Your dwarves will attempt to fill it with water carried in buckets. As they dump water in, it will muddy the farm room floor. After it has been sufficiently muddied, disable or remove the pond zone until you need to irrigate it again. Dwarves can build farm plots in 1 unit deep water.

NOTE: Even though it works, this is probably the slowest way to irrigate a room since dwarves only carry 1 unit of water per trip. Especially if you don't have a more than one or two idle dwarves and buckets, or if the water source is far away. It also probably wouldn't work very well on larger farm areas.

NOTE: This probably doesn't work if your farm room is directly under the surface, not for [[plump helmets]] anyway. It's best to have your farm room and the above pond-room both be dug in a cave.

== Wave irrigation ==

Although seawater is unfit for carrying to your farm in a bucket, areas muddied by seawater seem to be farmable. My favorite method of achieving this is building a farm room under a beach and making a hole in its roof, closable with a hatch, to let waves in.

[[Category:Agriculture]]

User:Heron

2008-08-11T23:15:41Z

Heron: New page: Reaction list in progress: [OBJECT:REACTION] [REACTION:BARREL_GLASS_GREEN] [NAME:make green glass barrel] [SMELTER] [REAGENT:3:BLOCKS:NO_SUBTYPE:GLASS_GREEN:NO_MATGLOSS] [PRODUCT:100:1:B...

Reaction list in progress:

[OBJECT:REACTION]

[REACTION:BARREL_GLASS_GREEN]
[NAME:make green glass barrel]
[SMELTER]
[REAGENT:3:BLOCKS:NO_SUBTYPE:GLASS_GREEN:NO_MATGLOSS]
[PRODUCT:100:1:BARREL:NO_SUBTYPE:GLASS_GREEN:NO_MATGLOSS]
[FUEL]

[REACTION:BIN_GLASS_GREEN]
[NAME:make green glass bin]
[SMELTER]
[REAGENT:3:BLOCKS:NO_SUBTYPE:GLASS_GREEN:NO_MATGLOSS]
[PRODUCT:100:1:BIN:NO_SUBTYPE:GLASS_GREEN:NO_MATGLOSS]
[FUEL]

[REACTION:MAKE_HAMMOCK]
[NAME:make hammock]
[SMELTER]
[REAGENT:1:REACTION_CLASS:CLOTH]
[PRODUCT:100:1:BED:NO_SUBTYPE:PLANT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG]

40d Talk:Bridge

2008-07-23T13:46:48Z

Heron:

==Fluids vs bridges==
Does a raised bridge prevent the flow of fluids? Guess I'll experiment and see if I can answer my own question. [[User:Yvain|Yvain]] 21:21, 29 February 2008 (EST)
:Yes. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 04:55, 1 March 2008 (EST)

==picture: south-raising drawbridge==
Here's a picture of a bridge that raises South, to clear up any confusion over which direction bridges raise. [[User:Basilisk|Basilisk]] 18:03, 27 March 2008 (EDT)
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== Items... ==

When a creature is crushed by a bridge, what happens to the items they had?--[[User:Lordmick134|Lordmick134]]

:When the bridge lowers, it completely ans permanently destroys anything it crashes on. So, there will be absolutely nothing under bridge, when it raises back.--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 03:29, 4 April 2008 (EDT)

::Not true! I had trapped a goblin inside a room with a bridge in it, and set the lever connected to the bridge to be repeatedly pulled. The goblin was stunned at most.--[[User:CrazyMcfobo|CrazyMcfobo]] 09:37, 16 April 2008 (EDT)

:::The goblin was likely ''flung'' from the bridge after stepping onto the extended bridge which then raised with the goblin still on it. Crushing is definitely an irrevocable and utter destruction. --[[User:JT|JT]] 16:30, 20 April 2008 (EDT)

== Channeling ==

Checked the [[channel]]ing article, nothing there, either. I have a bridge that raises to the right to form a wall, part of my outer defensive perimeter. I was digging a channel around the fortification wall and wanted to channel under the bridge. I raised the bridge ... I cannot channel. It never creates the flashy 'this is gonna be channeled' designation anywhere where the bridge could lay over. I can channel any where else. I can also remove the bridge, channel what I want, and replace the bridge just fine. What gives? Is this a known bug? --[[User:Geofferic|Geofferic]] 02:35, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

:As far as I know you can't dig on constructions. When the bridge is raised it is still considered to be constructed there. (or something like that) I had the same problem with some retracting bridges. To fix it I just removed the bridges and dug the channels, and then rebuilt them. --[[User:Lotus|Lotus]] 10:13 (CST) June 11, 2008

== Bridges as a temporary wall ==

I want to build a wall by pulling a lever, to block off a tunnel three squares wide.
It is a mine tunnel with no channel above it.

How long should the bridge be?

It looks like this:
<div style="font-family: monospace; white-space: pre; line-height: 126.5%"><nowiki>
▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒ò▒▒▒
.........╥.........
.........║.........
.........╨.........
▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒▒
</nowiki></div>

[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 05:12, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

Well, you have to be careful. Don't forget, by raising a bridge, you can potentially obliterate your dwarves in the process. So try not to make it too wide. --[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 05:41, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

:My question is, if I make it too long will it smash into the roof or anything?[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 06:09, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

::As far as I know of, it won't smash into the roof. The only concern is that if the bridge is too long, a dwarf may get accidently crushed. --[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 06:14, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

:::Buildings that span multiple/variable z-levels are, at the current time, not possible. So, just build a 1x3 bridge, set it to raise west or east, and you have a wall! A toggleable wall! --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 09:09, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

::::I'd suggest doing a 2x bridge, as you'll have to track down the lever anytime you're curious as to whether the bridge is up or down, as a 1x or x1 bridge looks the same raised or lowered when raised on it's short axis. (e.g. the bridge above would look the same raised or lowered.) --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 09:59, 18 June 2008 (EDT)

== Retractable/drawbridge ==

How can you specify which type of bridge you want to build? --[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 05:45, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

:When you go to place a bridge, by default it retracts. If you press wadxs you change the direction it raises: w = north, a= west, d=east, x=south, s=retracts. I don't know how to set the direction it retracts though.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 06:12, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

::So if it retracts, it creates an impassable wall? -[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 06:15, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

:::No, it disappears. If it raises, it creates an impassable wall, whose direction is the same as the raise direction. Try it out.
:::And, Garrie, it isn't possible to set retract direction since there is no such thing. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 09:09, 3 June 2008 (EDT)

::::Well I guess it doesn't really matter which way it retracts... although if a bridge is built outward from a cliff running east-west out to the chasm which is to the north then obviously the bridge retracts back to the edge it is anchored at (it can hardly retract back into mid-air...).[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 23:22, 6 June 2008 (EDT)

:::::Oh, really? --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 23:32, 6 June 2008 (EDT)

::::::well I guess applying common sense to DF might not be the best idea... but common sense would [bold]suggest [/bold] the bridge retracts back to where it was built from.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 00:03, 7 June 2008 (EDT)

:::::::We don't use BBcode here. I don't think that even is BBcode, but it is in that style. To make '''bold text''', type <code><nowiki>'''bold text'''</nowiki></code>.
:::::::And you're right that applying common sense to DF doesn't work. Even the least of peasants can carry thousands of pounds pebbles in a backpack. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 09:06, 7 June 2008 (EDT)

== Bridge-on-bridge action ==

I've just added a note about retractable bridges being able to be built using existing bridges as support. However I'm currently unable to test what happens when an intermediary bridge is retracted or raised (I have no stone for mechanisms!). I'm assuming that any bridges relying on the retracted/raised bridge for support will collapse, but it should be tested (and noted), if someone else has the time and inclination! [[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 12:04, 14 June 2008 (EDT)

: I can confirm that when the first bridge is retracted the second one deconstructs. And also if you choose to do your testing using extreme cliffs and "accidently" make 6 of your 7 dwarves stand on the second bridge then they will die a horrible death after falling 18 stories. --[[User:Makuus|Makuus]] 16:54, 16 June 2008 (EDT)

::What if you raise both of the bridges at the same time? --[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 05:48, 17 June 2008 (EDT)

:::The same thing happens, the second bridge deconstructs again --[[User:Makuus|Makuus]] 13:48, 22 June 2008 (EDT)

== lockdown system ==

in one of my old forts i had a setup so if the opponent got near my bridges a lever would be pulled and the opponents would fall into the lava with a godlike imp in it, it would use multiple bridges however and i would have to rebuild atleast 1, it was sort of like a tesselation of crosses

== Flying Bridge ==
Build stairs up. Build stairs down atop it. Build a retracting bridge extending into open air from the downstairs. Link the retracting bridge to a lever. Pull the lever to retract the bridge. Deconstruct the down stairs. Deconstruct the up stairs. Pull the lever. Remove the lever. Bridge flies. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 11:38, 18 July 2008 (EDT)
:Shame this can't be used to build eg. twisty retractable catwalks due to the above confirmations in Bridge-on-bridge action. :/ --[[User:Heron|Heron]] 09:46, 23 July 2008 (EDT)