Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

40d:Water flow

2010-02-13T03:36:34Z

Kupochama: /* Accidental flow in Aquifers */ link "aquifer"

'''Water flow''' is an informal term used occasionally by players to denote the ability of specific water tiles to power a [[waterwheel]]. The direction of the flow doesn't matter for purposes of powering a wheel - if it's there, it's there.

While there obviously is a game feature at work, the specifics are unclear and unknown at present.

There are two ways to tell if water has "flow". One is to build a waterwheel and see if it works - time consuming at best, whether for your dwarves or you as a player (if you [[Saved_game_folder|save]] the game to test it, then reload once you have your answer). The other is to keep SHOW_FLOW_AMOUNTS, in [[init.txt]], set to NO (the default). Then any flowing water will appear as alternating between a blue ~ and ≈, but only when the game is unpaused. (If the value is YES, then you will see the depth of all water, but not flow.)

__TOC__
===Natural flow===

Rivers and brooks always have flow. Brooks require that you channel down through the surface to place a wheel, but the flow is there. With dwarf-made bodies of water, the existence of flow is less predictable.

===Channeling moving water===
Creating water flow seems to be (semi-)reliably created where a channel is dug from a brook or river, back to the same brook or river with no diagonal connections. For example #1 will create flow, while #2 will not and #3 may or may not.

≈ [[River]] or [[Brook]]
~ [[Channel]]
#1
≈<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>
≈ ~ Flow
≈ ~
≈<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>

#2
≈<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>
≈ ~ No flow (due to diagonals)
≈ ~
≈<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>

#3
≈<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>
≈ <nowiki>~~~</nowiki> Possible flow (not perfectly understood)
≈ <nowiki>~~~</nowiki>
≈<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>

===Creating flow===
If water is moving from one area to another, there is flow, at least until the levels balance out. This can be done with drainage or [[pump]]s. So long as the water is moving, there is flow.

====Creating permanent artificial flow====
Pumps can create flow in a stable body of water as well. If you pump from one end of a body of water and water comes in (roughly) toward the other, flow is created in the tiles in between. If you start a pump manually, direct the output back to the other end of that same body of water, and have a waterwheel in place in the flow to provide power to the wheel once the flow has started, a [[Water_wheel#Perpetual_motion|perpetual motion machine]] can easily be created, with ample power to spare.

===Accidental flow in Aquifers===
Rarely, when channeling into a level with an [[aquifer]] with no adjacent pre-existing channels or water-ways, a single tile of flowing water will be created, enough to power a water wheel. This flow continues even when surrounding tiles are channeled out. With current understanding, this is not predictable or controllable - if it happens, it happens.

''(It is theorized that the water that initially flows in to fill that channeled tile somehow gets "stuck" in the flowing state. This is only a theory.)''

[[Category:World]]
[[Category:Physics]]

Utility:Stonesense

2009-11-15T11:59:22Z

Kupochama: add existing screenshot

[[File:stonesense.jpg|thumb|right|Stonesense Screenshot]]

If you are searching for "Stone Sense", the excellent reveal tool by 0x517A5D, see [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=836]

==Stonesense==
Stonesense is a third party visualizer that lets you view your Dwarf Fortress world in a classic isometric perspective.

The official thread for feedback, questions, requests or bug reports is located at [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=43260.0]

==Source code==
Project homepage:
http://code.google.com/p/stonesense/

==Sprites preview and todo list==
write me!

===Credits===
* Stonesense was written by Jonask, peterix, and kaypy.
* Dfhack library was written by peterix.
* Initial graphics were provided by Solifuge.
* Additional Graphics were contributed by:
* (fill me in)

Tileset repository

2009-09-22T01:46:47Z

Kupochama: /* Dwarfletter */ stockile -> stockpile

''You may be looking for general information on [[tilesets]] or the [[List of user graphics sets|Graphics set repository]].''

== Square tilesets ==

These are all the character sets with square tiles, except for the character sets with 16×16 tiles. Those are listed [[List_of_user_character_sets#16.C3.9716_tilesets|below]]. Text in square tilesets (as opposed to tilesets with shorter width) is usually more difficult to read, but the map is not distorted.

=== Anikki ===

[[Image:df_anikki_2.png|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Anikki_square_8x8.png]]
|author=[[User:Anikki|Anikki]]
|dated=2008-7-27
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×200 native.
|comments=Based on the original IBM CGA Character set with a lot of tweaks. The characters remain as descriptive yet universal as possible. I chose the CGA set because it is in my opinion the square set with the best readability. This set is for those who like the basic ASCII look where every pixel has meaning or (multiple meanings). [http://www.anikki.com/share/df/Anikki_square_8x8.bmp Download the BMP]

There is also an upscaled [[#Anikki_2|16x16 version]] of this set available for fullscreen use below.
}}

[[Image:df_anikki_1.png|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Anikki_square_10x10.png]]
|author=[[User:Anikki|Anikki]]
|dated=2008-7-27
|size=10×10
|resolution=800×250 native.
|comments=Based primarily on Tocky and Plac1d's sets (which are brilliant). The characters remain as descriptive as possible with some tweaks to the font for better readability and some changes to symbols for more consistency. This set is for those who like the basic ASCII look where every pixel has meaning or (multiple meanings). [http://www.anikki.com/share/df/Anikki_square_10x10.bmp Download the BMP]
(Note: The up and down ramps are reversed.)
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Anikki_square_20x20.png]]
|author=[[User:Anikki|Anikki]]
|dated=2008-7-27
|size=20×20
|resolution=1600×500 native.
|comments=Based primarily on Tocky and Plac1d. This is a scaled up version of the 10x10 tileset for fullscreen use. [http://www.anikki.com/share/df/Anikki_square_20x20.bmp Download the BMP]
(Note: The up and down ramps are reversed.)
}}

=== Dorten ===

[[Image:Snap.PNG|thumb|right]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:720x225_SmoothWalls.PNG]]
|author=[[User:Dorten|Dorten]]
|dated=2009-2-13
|size=9×9
|resolution=720×225
|comments=It's improved Savok's tileset, which is changed to make walls look smooth. Plus another little differences.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:720x225_SmoothWalls7.png]]
|author=[[User:Dorten|Dorten]]
|dated=2009-2-13
|size=9×9
|resolution=720×225
|comments=Minor tweak so the 7's don't look like question marks.
}}

=== Hanuman ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:DB_curses_12x12.PNG]]
|author=[[User:Hanuman|Hanuman]]
|dated=2008-7-23
|size=12×12
|resolution=900×300
|comments=This is basically the curses_800x600.bmp file converted to 12x12. It may be slightly different but it is close enough for me. [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=318 Get the .BMP here.]
Note: If the tileset doesn't look right played at 900x300, try changing the resolution to 966x325.
}}

=== Haowan ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Haowan_Curses_1440x450.png]]
|author=Haowan
|dated=2007-11-2
|size=18×18
|resolution=1440×450
|comments=An enlarged version of a square version of the default set.
}}

=== Herrbdog ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Herrbdog_144.png]]
|author=Herrbdog
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300
|comments=A larger version of this tileset is available [[#Herrbdog 2|below]].
}}

=== Lord Dullard ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Dullard_Exponent_12x12.png]]
|author=Lord Dullard/Exponent
|dated=2009-3-30
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300 native
|comments=Adjusted by Exponent, and with new dwarf characters added. A version of the Unknown 12×12 tileset with smoothed walls. Example: [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-5243-wiltedblight Wiltedblight].
}}

=== Lord Nightmare ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:CGA8x8thick.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×400
|comments=The original IBM CGA Character set, thick variant, dumped from addresses 0x1800-0x1fff the 5788005 IBM Character Generator ROM. This is the far more common 'thick' variant. Best viewed at 8:5 aspect ratio.
}}

[[Image:Nightmare_cga_8x8.jpg|thumb|right|Lord Nightmare's 8×8 CGA tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:CGA8x8thin.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2008-6-6
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×400
|comments=The original IBM CGA Character set, thin variant, dumped from addresses 0x1000-0x17ff the 5788005 IBM Character Generator ROM. This is the less common 'thin' variant, which required soldering on two pins and jumpering them on the CGA card to use. Best viewed at 8:5 aspect ratio.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:EGA8x8.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×400
|comments=The IBM EGA 8×8 Character set, dumped from the 6277356 IBM EGA BIOS ROM. This is ALMOST 100% IDENTICAL to the CGA thick font, but has minor modifications (23 pixels total) done to four characters: the capital 'S', the club sign, the spade sign, and the large asterisk (the one with a hole in the middle, char 0x0f, not the shift-8 one which is char 0x2a). There is no thin variant of this font. Best viewed at 8:5 aspect ratio.
}}

=== Maus ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Nostalgia_720x225.png]]
|author=[[User:Maus|maus]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=9×9
|resolution=720×225
|comments=Another square tileset that's usable on low resolutions, modeled after a common font used on the Nintendo Entertainment System. An 18x18 version for 1440x450 resolution is also [[:Image:Nostalgia_1440x450_3e4a08.png|available here]], and is really nice on a widescreen monitor. An NES palette is [[User:Maus|available here]].
}}

=== Markavian ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:mkv_solidcurses_stairs_960x300.png]]
|author=[[User:Markavian|Markavian]]
|dated=2007-12-4
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300
|comments=This revision is designed to work with DF version 0.27.169.33a with special tiles for [[stair]]s and [[ramp]]s, as well as the changes present in the earlier version such as bones, walls, trees and swords. Available in [http://mkv25.net/showcase/df/mkv_curses%2012×12%20and%206x6%20v2.zip mkv curses 12×12 and 6x6 v2.zip]. As seen in the fortress of [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-1329-axegear Axegear].
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Mkv_solidcurses_960x300.png]]
|author=[[User:Markavian|Markavian]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300
|comments=An older revision of my square tileset, featuring more detailed symbols, with alterations to certain text characters to look more like ingame items. The walls are infilled now. 
Available in [http://mkv25.net/showcase/df/mkv_curses%2012×12%20and%206x6%20v2.zip mkv curses 12×12 and 6x6 v2.zip]. As seen in the fortress of [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-800-inflew. Inkflew].
}}

=== Paul ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Paul_10x10.png]]
|author=[[User:Paul|Paul]]
|dated=2008-9-5
|size=10×10
|resolution=800×250 for 80×25 grid size, others just multiply grid by 10.
|comments=Custom tileset I made for my own use when the adjustable grid sizes were released for DF. Some accented letters cut slightly to allow for larger letter display. Contains several of Tocky's tiles (barrels, some trees, dimple cups, coins, slightly modified armor stand). Others are either made by me or adjusted from curses_800x600 tiles.
}}

=== Savok ===

[[Image:Screenshot_41ea57.png|thumb|right|Savok's tiny, non-updated tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Curses_720x225_8d6752.png]]
|author=[[User:Savok|Savok]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=9×9
|resolution=720×225
|comments=There is no doubt that this tileset is old. This must be distinctly understood if anything wonderful is to come of your use of it. You may like [[List_of_user_character_sets#Dorten|Dorten's revision]] more. The following is the original description: I dislike curses_640x300.bmp due to its lack of any kind of graphics for things like a bed or a barrel and the fact that it distorts my beautiful circles, so I made a similarish tileset to fix those.
}}

=== Sir Henry ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[:Image:Sir_Henry%27s_32x32.png|Not shown due to size]]
|author=Sir Henry
|dated=2009-8-19
|size=32×32
|resolution=2560×800
|comments=Recently I learned of a monitor displaying 2560 pixels horizontally, and I decided it needed a tileset to put to use. Taking the tileset I use (Kelora 16x16 diagonal) and doubling it, I was able to get a decent tileset. Smoothing the edges, and redoing some glyphs to get a better look (or just messing up some to bad to fix), I was able to achieve this.
}}

===Teeto_K===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Teeto_K_18x18.PNG]]
|author=[[User:Teeto_K|Teeto_K]]
|dated=2008-10-24
|size=18×18
|resolution=1440×450
|comments=A tileset based on [[:Image:Nostalgia_1440x450_3e4a08.png|Maus's 18x18 version of his "Nostalgia" tileset]], however, it has been heavily revised. The entire font has been "smoothed over", and many of the symbols changed to more "graphical" representations of the items they represent. An attempt to fill the void of "graphic heavy" tilesets in the 18x18 tile-size. A special emphasis is placed on maximizing the text's readability, while still providing a "graphics enhanced" play area. Special thanks to Maus for the font, and Guybrush for the inspiration.
}}

=== Terbert ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Terbert_10x10.png]]
|author=[[User:Terbert|Terbert]]
|dated=2009-6-30
|size=10×10
|resolution=800×250
|comments=This is Terbert's First tileset
}}

=== Tocky ===

[[Image:Df_tock10_1.PNG|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Tocky_square_10x10.png]]
|author=[[User:Tocky|Tocky]]
|dated=2007-11-15
|size=10×10
|resolution=800×250 native, 800×500 for fullscreen.
|comments=I tried to make all the pictographic symbols as descriptive as possible: the only ones I've spotted that show up in odd places are the staircase symbols, '<' and '>', which are used as tags on barrel descriptions, and don't match -- but I'm willing to live with that in order to be able to tell up-stairs from down- ones. With everything else, I just tried to maximize clarity and readability and to keep them consistent. I'm really very pleased with how this set turned out.
}}

=== Turnip ===

[[Image:Rev7.PNG|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Markvii.png]]
|author=[[User:Turnip|Turnip]]
|dated=2009-7-9
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300
|comments=My revision of Markavian's tileset, made to be more "curvy"
}}

=== Unknown ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Tileset_unknown_960x300_02.png]]
|author=Unknown
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300
|comments=This is a tileset submitted by an unknown user from the IP address 86.43.81.125. 
}}

[[Image:Unknown_12x12.jpg|thumb|right|Unknown 12×12 v2]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Unknown_curses_12x12.png]]
|author=Unknown
|dated=2007-11-24
|size=12×12
|resolution=960×300
|comments=This is very similar to the above tileset, but has some noticeable differences. I have no idea where I got it from. It's great on a 1024x768 CRT monitor in windowed mode. I use it in a 1000x500 window with [BLACKSPACE:YES]. --[[User:JT|JT]]
}}

=== Xenomorph ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Acorntileset8x8.png]]
|author=[[User:Xenomorph|Xenomorph]]
|dated=2008-8-9
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×200
|comments=This is the tileset used by Acorn computers, starting with the BBC Micro. This version is as it would have appeared in 40-column modes (and shuffled a little to adapt it to CP437). It also looks nice at double resolution. [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=407 Download the BMP.]
}}

=== Yayo ===

[[Image:yayo_c64_640x200_screenshot.png|thumb|right|yayo's c64 Tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:yayo_c64_640x200.png]]
|author=[[User:Yayo|Yayo]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×200
|comments=Name: Yayo's C64; Based on the charset of the commodore 64. It's a flat style, but it's clean and also highly readable. I recreated all the missing chars like letters with accents and symbols, trying to get a c64 style as much as possible. If it's too small, use the 16×16 version [[#Yayo_2|below]]. :)
}}

[[Image:yayo_tunur_1040x325_screenshot.png|thumb|right|yayo's Tunur Tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:yayo_tunur_1040x325.png]]
|author=[[User:Yayo|Yayo]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=13×13
|resolution=1040×325
|comments=Name: Yayo's Tunur; According to the language files of DF, Tunur means "style" in dwarf language. It may require a bit to get used to some symbols, but it's a very clean tileset. (It's just a bit weird. :P)
}}

[[Image:Oreslam_1900x1200_20x20_screenshot.png|thumb|right|yayo's Oreslam Tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Oreslam_1920x1200_20x20.png]]
|author=[[User:Yayo|Yayo]]
|dated=2009-09-12
|size=20×20
|resolution=1920×1200
|comments=Name: Yayo's Oreslam; Just like the previous one, this tileset is named according to the dwarf language: or-es-lam means "Large Clear Stone". I decided to create this tileset to fit my usual screen resolution (1920x1200). I tried giving it a clean look. To use it in windowed mode try these settings in the init file: WINDOWEDX:1900, WINDOWEDY:1160, GRID:95:58.}}

=== Zaratustra ===

[[Image:Zara_8x8.jpg|thumb|right|Zaratustra's 8×8 tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_msx.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×8
|resolution=640×200 or 640×400
|comments= The MSX and MSX2 font, shuffled around to fit the char set. Double lines were added.
}}

== 16×16 tilesets ==

The 16×16 tilesets are a subset of square character sets. 16×16 is a frequently used size, as shown by the number of tilesets in this section. This is probably because all of the best creature graphics sets use 16×16 tiles. Those alternate sets for creatures can be found at [[graphics sets]]. '''If your screen is too small for these, turn on BLACK_SPACE!'''

=== Aesomatica ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Aesomatica_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Aesomatica|Aesomatica]]
|dated=2008-11-29
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400 native.
|comments=Tileset intended to build upon [[User:Sphr|Sphr's]] and [[User:Jackard|Jackard's]] work, as well as others. Some tiles are original, some are variants and most are copied from various sets the author found pleasing. Notable originals include the broken bolt/ashes tiles, the ballista heads/large hills, the small hills, the ore (gear animation is pleasing, though axle animation is unimproved), ground tiles, and vermin. Also, bins look decent and up/down stairs look okay. This set looks its best with Sphr's graphics.
}}

=== Anikki ===

[[Image:df_anikki_2.png|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Anikki_square_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Anikki|Anikki]]
|dated=2008-7-27
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400 native.
|comments=Based on the original IBM CGA Character set with a lot of tweaks. The characters remain as descriptive yet universal as possible. I chose the CGA set because it is in my opinion the suqare set with the best readability. This set is for those who like the basic ASCII look where every pixel has meaning or (multiple meanings). This is a scaled up version for fullscreen use. [http://www.anikki.com/share/df/Anikki_square_16x16.bmp Download the BMP]
}}

=== Cooz ===

[[Image:Cooz_Tileset_Screenshot.png|thumb|right|Cooz's Tileset]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Cooz_curses_square_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Cooz|Cooz]]
|dated=2009-2-28
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400 native.
|comments=v1.1 - 3px wide walls and some other tweaks. Based on Klokjammer and Marble Dice tilesets. Some tiles were taken from other sets, some were made from scratch. The aim was to keep feel of default curses font in 16×16 tileset. There's also [http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Image:Cooz_curses_square_flat_16x16.png version without shading].
}}

=== Guybrush ===

[[Image:GuybrushScreenshot1.PNG|thumb|right|Guybrush Tileset]]
[[Image:GuybrushScreenshot2.PNG|thumb|right|the wilderness...]]

{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:Guybrush_square_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Guybrush|Guybrush]]
|dated=2007-11-15
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=A 16×16 tileset based on the very nice Herrbdog's one, and for use with the superb [[Graphics_sets#Dystopian_Rhetoric|Dystopian Rhetoric objects]]. A slightly modified version of Herrbdog's tileset is available below if you want to keep the original ASCII symbols for some objects (just do some cut & paste). It's just a little brighter and with some very slight changes. The tileset shown is a tileset with graphic objects added, for use with Fortress Mode.

I recommend to have a look at the [[color schemes|color schemes page]] to find your favorite color settings. The color scheme I used for the screenshots is [[Color_Schemes#.28Yet.29_Another_scheme|this one]].}}

{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:GuybrushASCII_curses_square_16x16.png]]
|author=Herrbdog, modified by [[User:Guybrush|Guybrush]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Here is the slightly modified version of Herrbdog's tileset which still has all the ASCII characters intact
}}

=== Herrbdog ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Herrbdog_16x16_tileset.gif]]
|author=Herrbdog
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=The 16×16 version of Herrbdog's tileset. Further discussion of herrbdog's tilesets is available in the Bay 12 forums:
http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=000832
}}

=== Inquisitor Saturn ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:MRC_square_16x16.png]]
|author=Inquisitor Saturn
|dated=2008-5-18
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Another 16 by 16 tileset. This one is notable because of the subtle shadowing and a completely original, hand-made font.
}}

=== Kaishaku ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Kai-1280x400-v2 7512b5.png]]
|author=Kaishaku
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=A square 1280×400 font. Simple and legible. Converted from roarl's 16×16 nethack font, on top of super foul egg's template, extended manually and with ideas from lucida console. This is version 1, created in one morning. Screenshots available [http://kaishaku.org/dwarfort here].
}}

=== Kelora ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Kelora_16x16_diagonal.png]]
|author=[[User:Kelora|Kelora]]
|dated=2009-7-26
|size=16×16
|resolution=
|comments=A square tileset using the diagonal wall concept from Belal and others but simplified drastically to improve the appearance. All the walls line up correctly and have consistent widths.
I did not use much of the pretty but confusing art I see in many of the other sets. I tried for a while to incorporate many of these but found that with the multiple uses for most characters they were just wrong far too often to be useful. The only ones that seem to work are the dwarves which I took from Flying Mage / Guybrush. The pretty 3Dish fonts as well just seem to look muddier and be less legible. I love it and my husband has been happily playing it for months.
}}

=== Klokjammer ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Kjammer square 16x16 v02.png]]
|author=[[User:Klokjammer|Klokjammer]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Name: ''"Masked Adventurer"'' - after tile (0,4), where '@' used to be. A somewhat abstract version of the original curses square tileset, but with the alpha numeric characters shaped so as not to look distorted. Other symbols are either borrowed from or improved from curses, and some (including the dwarves) were created from the ground up. Alternate variations, are available [[User:Klokjammer#My Tilesets|here]].
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Kjammer square 16x16 v00.png]]
|author=[[User:Klokjammer|Klokjammer]]
|dated=2007-10-31
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=A "clean" version of the above set, one without any fancy tiles (except for the dwarves).
}}

=== Marble Dice ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Md_curses_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Marble Dice|Marble Dice]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=This tileset attempts to modify the size and aspect ratio of the classic 8x12 terminal/curses font employed by many rougelikes without sacrificing the distinctive character.
}}

=== Nordic Curses ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:DF-Nordic_v1.png]]
|author=[[User:Techhead|Techhead]]
|dated=2009-3-26
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=My first attempt at a unique curses-style tileset with a Nordic Theme. Some characters have been altered.
}}

=== PTTG ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:PTTGV2tiles.png]]
|author=[[User:PTTG|PTTG]]
|dated=2007-11-21
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=A new version! Clean, sharp, and clear. All-original, and large size for big screens! Also features coloured indicators for levers, helping to remove the guesswork. It is good stand-alone, or with my [[List of user graphics sets#PTTG|graphics set]].
}}

=== Random832 ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Msgothic.png]]
|author=[[User:Random832]]
|dated=2009-4-22
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×800 etc
|comments=Based on the ＭＳゴシック (MS Gothic) japanese font, with some gaps filled in from the VGA 8x16 font, and some other characters tweaked by hand.
}}

===Red Jack===
{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:Redjack17.png]]
|author=[[User:Jackard|Jackard]]
|dated=2008-7-22
|size=16x16
|resolution=1280x400
|comments=This combines content from other tilesets with Nintendo sprites to give the game a classic dungeon look. ''Note: Bins are hard to see using this tileset because the "bin" tile is also used as the "up/down staircase" tile. [[Tileset_repository#Aesomatica |Aesomatica]] and [[Tileset_repository#Martin|Martin]] improve upon this tileset making the bin tile easier to see.''

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=7 You may download all variations of this tileset here.]}}

=== Sappho ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Sapphos_square_16x16.png]]
|author=Sappho
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Another square font, target resolution 1280×400. This one is exactly the same as the default font except it has been made square, painstakingly edited to ensure that nothing looks squished.
}}

=== Savok ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Savok_curses_1280x400_517caa.png]]
|author=[[User:Savok|Savok]]
|dated=2008-6-16
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Unsatisfied with any existing tileset, I decided to go about creating my own. Since I can't create from scratch, I had to take tiles from other tilesets and modify them, in an evolution-like manner, until they became how I wanted them. Since most are dramatically different from the tileset I took them from, I believe I can call them original. In the raws, change the tag [TILE:'U'] for humans to [TILE:172]. This changes both the image and corpse of humans to a unique image, which creature graphics cannot do. The elves also get a different tile, [TILE:171]. I plan to make a separate goblin symbol. If you use it and like it, please leave a message for at [[User talk:Savok|my talk page]] or at [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=201 the DFFD page]. This will greatly speed progress, since I won't be doing it just for myself. Note: The [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=201 DFFD version] is updated more frequently and has the changelist.
}}

=== Super Foul Egg ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:SFE_Curses_square_16x16.png]]
|author=Super Foul Egg
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=The font is rough as hell and some of the characters still need attention, but it'll do for now. Since this tileset is for graphics mode I'd rather wait for more complete object support than hack in pictures and gum up the UI. Uppercase from [http://www.zee-3.com/pickfordbros/archive/bitmapfonts.php this site]
}}

=== Tahin ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Tahin_16x16_rounded.png]]
|author=[[User:Tahin|Tahin]]
|dated=2007-12-28
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Based on Marble Dice's tileset, above. Smoothed corners are "rounded", which takes some getting used to but look quite nice, in my opinion. I have managed to get all of the standard "L" tiles to fit together nicely, but "T" and "+" don't quite match up. It's not a problem that comes up often, and it still doesn't look that bad, but I'll get to it eventually.
}}

=== Tyrving ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Tyr_1280x400.PNG]]
|author=[[User:Tyrving|Tyrving]]
|dated=2008-2-15
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=None of the existing modifications of curses_square satisfied me, so I made my own. The bulk of it is from Klokjammer's set, with the dwarf symbols and @ taken from Sappho's. Quite a few minor alterations have been made, and I feel that it's become distinct enough to release it.
}}

=== Winterwing ===

[[Image:Winterwing_Dfort-tiles-lucon.png|thumb|right|Lucida Console with Dystopian Rhetoric objects]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Winterwing_Curses_16x16_lucon.png]]
|author=[[User:Winterwing|Winterwing]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Like usual, lucida console with cleartype. Creative, huh. :)
}}

=== Yayo ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Yayo_c64_1280x400_83b157.png]]
|author=[[User:Yayo|Yayo]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Name: Yayo's C64; The 16×16 version of Yayo's tileset.
}}

=== Zaratustra ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2007-11-10
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Because everyone is making one.
}}

== 16×16 tilesets for edited raws==

These tilesets require modified [[raws]] to work properly. Specifically, the tile numbers assigned to some objects (critters, stones, plants) need to be changed and accented characters usually need to be removed from all languages.

=== Belal ===

[[Image:Belal_Example.png|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Belal_Smooth_Walls.png]]
|author=[[User:Belal|Belal]]
|dated=2009-1-9
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400 native.
|comments=Based on the Mike Mayday tileset and using angled smoothed walls as in [[User:Dorten|Dorten's]] Tileset. I like the look of the walls for doing near circular or honeycomb layouts. [http://mkv25.net/dfma/poi-9935-seethewallshere Example Fort]
}}

=== Flying Mage ===

{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:Flying_Mage_square_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Flying Mage|Flying Mage]]
|dated=2008-4-12
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=A 16×16 tileset based on several other tilesets by various authors. I did some changes because I like some things in different ways, but the base for tileset was made by another users and for this I thankful. List of major and minor changes you can see below. And I hope you'll enjoy this. There is some tiles I really proud of :) 
*[[:Image:Flying_Mage_square_16x16_Major_Changes.png|Major changes]] 
*[[:Image:Flying_Mage_square_16x16_Minor_Changes.png|Minor changes]]
*[[:Image:Flying_Mage_square_16x16_Stone_Type.png|Some ''rough/smoothed/engraved stone'' improvement]]
}}

=== Dwarfletter ===

[[Image:Dwarfletter1.png|thumb|right|Dwarfletter - Stockpile]]


{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:DwarfletterGothic.PNG]]
|author=LordZorinthrox
|dated=2009-7-20
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=[[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=1205|Download here]] 
;see also
:[[:File:Dwarfletter2.png|Status screen - Font]]
:[[:File:Dwarfletter3.png|Foliage]]
:[[:File:Dwarfletter4.png|Ballista]]
}}

=== Isenhertz ===

[[Image:isenhertz_v2_screenshot.png|thumb|right|Isenhertz's tileset in action.]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:16x16_isenhertz_v2.png]]
|author=[[User:Isenhertz|Isenhertz]]
|dated=2008-7-14
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Impressed with the genius of using sprites as tiles, I cobbled together this tileset of my own. It uses Super Foul Egg's superb font as a base, with several sprites also found in other users' sets. Because a lot of letters are used for graphics, I suggest that you [[User:Jackard|remove accented letters from names]] with this set. I also suggest you shift some items to other icons, such as the coniferous trees (change Pine, Cedar, Larch from 024 to 147), the turtle (change 15 to 151), and Quarry Bush leaves (change from 006 to 003).
V2 now with new graphics for walls and liquids, as well as some other tweaks here and there and a first attempt at using dual-color sprites using a cyan base instead of simple greyscale. (Right now implemented for beds, wood and statues.)
V1 can still be found [[:Image:16x16_isenhertz_v1.png|here]].
}}

=== Lemunde ===
[[Image:Lemunde_Tileset_16x16_Preview.jpg|thumb|right|Lemunde's Tileset.]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lemunde_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Lemunde|Lemunde]]
|dated=2009-9-19
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=This is a modified version of Mike Mayday's/Herrbdog's tileset. It has a more textured feel to the walls and makes heavy use of the new transparency features to make some of the tiles a little more dynamic. You can view a preview map [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-7000-dragonskull here]. I recommend changing the sky settings in the init.txt file to [SKY:176:15:3:0] for a more natural look.
}}

=== Martin ===

[[Image:Martin_16x16_sample.png|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Martin_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Martin|Martin]]
|dated=2009-8-8
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=This is a 16x16 tileset based on Redjack and Flying Mage sets (and possible tiles taken from others that I've since lost track of - apologies). Some tiles are original or have been tweaked, mainly to provide a much more subtle background than most. A completely new character set is used to improve legibility, tweaked and anti-aliased for dark backgrounds.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=1316 Download]
[http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-6239-lashedwines Demo fortress at DFMA]
}}

=== SL ===

{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:SL_square_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:SL]]
|dated=2008-8-3
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=(Requires a download, not just the image) Art based on Flying Mage's, Guybrush's, and previous tilesets in that lineage. Uses ModBase to relocate relocatable art and de-accentify certain accented letters to reduce graphical bizarreness while still improving some art. [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=22154.0 Forum Thread] [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=370 Download] [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-3203-flamespear Demo Fortress Map on the DFMA]
}}

=== Spreggo ===

[[Image:Autonomous_Font_example.png|thumb|right|The Autonomous Font in action.]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Autonomous_Font.png]]
|author=Spreggo
|dated=2009-2-2
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Started off inspired by Belal's diagonal support, and ended up doing almost every tile from scratch. Added different tiles for each type of stone, and new ones for ore, but the matgloss files need to be edited for that functionality(see image details).
}}

=== The-Moon ===

[[Image:SS_moons_square_16x16.PNG|thumb|right]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Moons_square_16x16.PNG]]
|author=[[User:The-Moon|The-Moon]]
|dated=2008-3-24
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=Edited Character set of [[User:mikemayday|mikemayday]] and [[User:Jackard|Jackard]]}}

=== Tigrex ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:tigrex3d.PNG]]
|author=[[User:Tigrex|Tigrex]]
|dated=2009-2-22
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=This is my tileset, modified from Dorten's 2d diagonal wall set. It incorporates many original creations of mine, and I hope you like it.}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:tigrex3drunes.PNG]]
|author=[[User:Tigrex|Tigrex]]
|dated=2009-4-10
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=This is a modification of the above, that takes advantage of Norse runes for a more authentic Dwarven experience. CAUTION! This tileset has little practical value, and may induce myopia, blindness, or death.}}

=== Tim's ===

[[Image:example_tims.png|thumb|right]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Tims_16x16.png]]
|author=[[User:Timmeh|Timmeh]]
|dated=2009-8-12
|size=16×16
|resolution=1280×400
|comments=A tileset using heavily modified versions of the diagonal walls from Belal's set, a modified version of the floor from Spreggo's set, most of the furniture and objects are from Flying Mage's set, and some various other bits and pieces from other sets. Replaces the black box that normally surrounds the walls with a copy of the floor tile. [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-5740-foresthold Example Fort]
}}

== Non-square tilesets ==

These tilesets are not square. Text in non-square tilesets often looks much better and is often much easier to read than in square tilesets, but the map is distorted.

=== CKY ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[File:Curses_800x600_shade.png]]
|author=[[User:Chinkeeyong|Chinkeeyong]]
|dated=2009-6-11
|size=10×12
|resolution=800×600
|comments=Partially inspired by Eagle of Fire's tiles, below. Essentially, this is the default tileset with a little bevel-style shading around the edges to make it look neater. Also, I fixed the accented 'e' tails to look closer to the standard 'e'.
}}

=== Eagle of Fire ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:eofshaded800x600pb9_f64ded.png]]
|author=[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=10×12
|resolution=800×600
|comments=Designed for fullscreen. Inspired by Herrbdog's tileset, I created a shaded tileset targeting the default fullscreen 800x600 resolution. Basicaly, you have the exact same "curses" default tileset but with some shading done to the lower right of each letters and items. I've left alone everything which was related to mining or was meant to be plain, for example the smoothered tiles and the plain tiles in the demo. The reason behind that is that I didn't find much logic to have those graphics shaded as they could possibly connect on any direction on the screen, which would make the shading a little strange. Please note that this tileset is only a "beta". I might work on it again if there is enough people who like it and would like improvements. You can discuss the matter [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=11&t=000645 here].
}}

=== Inquisitor Saturn ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:MRC_1280x600.png]]
|author=[[User:InquisitorSaturn|Inquisitor Saturn]]
|dated=2008-2-28
|size=16×24
|resolution=1280×600
|comments=Designed for a double-sized window mode. Based on the default set, but more detailed and with a few custom characters. Good for those who want larger characters but enjoy the aesthetics of the default set.
}}

=== Kein ===

[[Image:Kein-curs.gif|thumb|right|Kein's Tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Kein_640x300.png]]
|author=Kein
|dated=2008-8-9
|size=8×12
|resolution=640×300
|comments=Updated 08/09/09. Updated most characters, the biggest change is the 3d style walls. If you use my set I'd highly recommend [http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/List_of_user_graphics_sets#Plac1d Plac1d's character graphic set.] My 640×300, everything completely shaded.
}}

=== Lord Nightmare ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:MDA8x14.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×14
|resolution=640×350
|comments=The original IBM MDA character set, dumped from addresses 0x0000-0x0fff the 5788005 IBM Character Generator ROM. This font is as would be displayed on an EGA/VGA with the 9-pixel-width mode disabled. Best for a 64:35 aspect ratio. The required resolution is strange, so run fullscreen with BLACK_SPACE:YES and resolution at 640x480. The MDA card did not actually support displaying the font in 8x14, but ONLY 9x14 mode, see below. Theoretically, you CAN upload this font into EGA video memory though and use it.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:MDA9x14.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=9×14
|resolution=720×350
|comments=The original IBM MDA character set, dumped from addresses 0x0000-0x0fff the 5788005 IBM Character Generator ROM. This font is as would be displayed on a real MDA card (use a black/dkgreen/ltgreen palette for full monochrome effect) or on an EGA/VGA card with the 9-pixel-width mode enabled. Best for a 72:35 aspect ratio. The required resolution is strange, so run fullscreen with BLACK_SPACE:YES and resolution at 720x480.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:EGA8x14.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×14
|resolution=640×350
|comments=The IBM EGA character set, dumped from the 6277356 IBM EGA BIOS ROM. This font is as would be displayed on an EGA/VGA with the 9-pixel-width mode disabled. Best for a 64:35 aspect ratio. The required resolution is strange, so run fullscreen with BLACK_SPACE:YES and resolution at 640x480. This font is different from the MDA version in that many characters are slightly narrower to avoid 'running into' each other, and many characters have been shifted slightly to the left.
Thanks to Zaratustra for poking me into getting this done, and for related help.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:EGA9x14.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=9×14
|resolution=720×350
|comments=The IBM EGA character set, dumped from the 6277356 IBM EGA BIOS ROM. This font is as would be displayed on an EGA/VGA with the 9-pixel-width mode enabled. Best for a 72:35 aspect ratio. The required resolution is strange, so run fullscreen with BLACK_SPACE:YES and resolution at 640x480. This font is actually different from the 8x14 version in that 20 characters have been replaced with the original MDA wide versions. These 'extra' wide characters are sandwiched in between the end of the 8x14 and beginning of the 8×8 font in the EGA BIOS ROM. The changed characters, in ASCII order, are: arrow-left-and-right, '"', '+', '-', 'M', 'T', 'V', 'W', 'X', 'Y', 'Z', 'm', 'v', 'w', 'ae', cent sign, yen, peseta, plus-minus, and division sign. Other than these characters, all characters are the same, with rightmost-row duplicated on the C and D rows like the MDA (though I don't actually know if this is technically correct).
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:VGA8x16.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/IBM?
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×16
|resolution=640×400
|comments=The original? IBM VGA 8x16 character set, (from http://madscientistroom.org/fpga/default-8x16-bram.html) as would be displayed on a VGA card with the 9-pixel-width disabled. Best for an 8:5 aspect ratio. The required resolution is strange, so run fullscreen with BLACK_SPACE:YES and resolution at 640x480. This rom has not yet been dumped from a real VGA card, and is coming from a secondary source, so it may be replaced later if I find the real font is different.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord_Nightmare-Fixedsys-02.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/Microsoft
|dated=2007-12-20
|size=8×15
|resolution=640×375
|comments=v2.2 - (v1.0 is [[:Image:Lord_Nightmare-Fixedsys.png|here]]) - Based on Microsoft's Fixedsys font (which dates back to Windows 1.0!), Many glyphs needed redoing by hand since they were absent from the font, since it is an 'ansi' character set and not a code-page 437 one like DF expects. v2.0 Based on Microsoft's Fixedsys font. Updated new glyphs to be more consistent with the Fixedsys style. - v2.1 - update a few more glyphs, namely the integral, the infinity symbol, and the spade, and a few others I'm forgetting. - v2.2 - update the club and spade, and the music notes - v2.3 - fix the fact that 0xF9 and 0xFA were inadvertently swapped.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord_Nightmare-Fixedsys-03.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/Microsoft
|dated=2007-12-20
|size=8×16
|resolution=640×400
|comments=v3.0 - changed font size to 8x16, altered glyphs to respect this. - v3.1 - fix the fact that 0xF9 and 0xFA were inadvertently swapped.
}}

[[Image:Lord_Nightmare_Freehand_screenshot_2b7d67.png|thumb|right|Freehand screenie... ooh, neat! Unreadable.]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord_Nightmare_Freehand_10x16.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare
|dated=2007-12-23
|size=10×16
|resolution=800×400
|comments=v1.0 - A character set drawn entirely in freehand on the tablet PC... with MINIMAL EDITING! Yes, its SUPPOSED to look like that. v1.1 - fixed character 0x02 background (filled smiley), filled in the card suits, minor touch up to the comma, fix black instead of magenta on the greyscale blocks and other tweaks to them, redrew the square block (was 'too clean' before) v1.1a - fixed spade by adding 1 pixel at tip so it doesn't look like another club
}}

[[Image:Lord_Nightmare_Freehand_screenshot_2_05c04b.png|thumb|right|Freehand^2 screenie... ooh, neat! Readable. But ugly.]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord_Nightmare_Freehand^2_10x16.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare
|dated=2008-3-28
|size=10×16
|resolution=800×400
|comments=Freehand^2, v1.2 - A heavily edited version of Freehand, now hopefully less unreadable. V1.2 is the current version, see the image link changelog/older versions.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Vintl01.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/Victor-Sirius
|dated=2007-12-19
|size=10×16
|resolution=800×400
|comments=The Victor 9000/Sirius 1 computer character set, extracted from vintl01.chr.
}}

=== Lumin ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[:Image:Lumin_Graphical_1280x800.png|Not shown due to size]]
|author=Lumin
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=16×32
|resolution=1280×800
|comments=Ideas used from several others on this page. I've also added more detail and color to some objects.
}}

=== Plac1d ===

[[Image:Plac1d_640x300EZ_1.png|thumb|right|Plac1d's Tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Plac1d_640x300tileset.png]]
|author=[[User:Plac1d|Plac1d]]
|dated=2008-3-13
|size=8×12
|resolution=640×300
|comments=A tweaked version of [[#Tocky|Tocky's 10×10 tileset]] converted to 8×12. Try using this with my [[List of user graphics sets#Plac1d|graphics set]]!

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=63 Download the .BMP]
}}

=== Quietust ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:VGA9x16.png]]
|author=Quietust/IBM?
|dated=2009-7-24
|size=9×16
|resolution=720×400
|comments=The original? IBM VGA 9x16 character set, as would be displayed on a VGA card with the 9-pixel-width enabled.
}}

=== Sergius ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Sleroux_800x300.png]]
|author=Sergius
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=10×12
|resolution=800×300
|comments=Mostly vanilla tileset, dwarves have graphic from intro [[Utilities#CMVPlayer|Movie]], with some tweaks (for soldiers). I find it helpful for playing (instead of happy faces).
}}

=== Shaja ===

[[Image:Shaja_10-27-09.png|thumb|right|TerminusAliased text]]
[[Image:Shaja_10-13-09.png|thumbnail|right|Terminus24 text]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[:Image:TerminusAliased_handedit_gal.png|Not shown due to size]]
|author=[[User:Shaja|Shaja]]
|dated=2008-3-27
|size=20×32
|resolution=1600×800
|comments=Alphanumerics based on Dimitar Zhekov's [http://www.is-vn.bg/hamster/jimmy-en.html Terminus] font with light antialias shading added, walls and some symbols redrawn, others carried over from Thom's 20x32 tileset.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[:Image:Terminus24.png|Not shown due to size]]
|author=[[User:Shaja|Shaja]]
|dated=2008-5-19
|size=24×32
|resolution=1920×800
|comments=Revised version of my earlier Terminus 20x32 character set for 1920x800 display.
}}

=== Tae ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:CP850.png]]
|author=Tae/IBM
|dated=2009-9-06
|size=8×14
|resolution=640×350
|comments=The original? IBM VGA 8x16 character set, (from http://madscientistroom.org/fpga/default-8x16-bram.html) as would be displayed on a VGA card with the 9-pixel-width disabled. Best for an 8:5 aspect ratio. The required resolution is strange, so run fullscreen with BLACK_SPACE:YES and resolution at 640x480. This rom has not yet been dumped from a real VGA card, and is coming from a secondary source, so it may be replaced later if I find the real font is different. The changed characters, in ASCII order are 'zero', 'at', 'M', 'T', 'V', 'W', 'X', 'Y', 'Z', 'm', 'v', 'w', 'x', 'vertical bar', 'C-cedilla', 'c-cedilla', 'A-ring', 'cent', 'yen', 'E-acute', 'ae ligature', 'peseta', 'florin', 'reversed logical not', 'fractions one half-one quarter', 'selected box drawing characters', 'left-and-right blocks', 'greek alpha, gamma, pi, sigma', 'mu', 'equivalence', 'less-greater or equal', 'top-bottom half integral', 'approximately equal', 'radical root', 'small superscript n'.
}}

=== Taritus ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Curses 640x300diag.png]]
|author=Taritus
|dated=2009-03-23
|size=8×12
|resolution=640×300
|comments=Yuppers. I requested it a long time ago when everyone else was requesting different sized square tilesets with diagonal walls, and nobody ever fulfilled the request. I decided, "Oh, it's not like I have some menial and huge English project that's due tomorrow to work on, I'm going to make that." And I did.--[[User:Taritus|Taritus]] 20:53, 22 March 2009 (UTC)
}}

=== Thom ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[:Image:Curses_24pt_cleartype_ThomModifications.PNG|Not shown due to size]]
|author=Herrbdog
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=20×24
|resolution=1600×800
|comments=Hi res won't slow the game as it doesn't use graphics, so if your monitor can display it, go for it, really... I strongly recommend to enable blackspace in the init: [BLACK_SPACE:YES] Made from the 24pts cleartype lucida console above (from winterwing). I added some stuff (some original, some ideas taken from others tilesets). Basically I try to avoid symbols that are often seen in menus, etc. The main "problem" is the bag, because its the male symbol, but it was too good looking to not put it ;) Hope you enjoy :) . . .Note: Winterwing's tileset is now lost. --[[User:Savok|Savok]]
}}

=== UncleSporky ===

[[Image:UncleSporky_DFTiles1.png|thumb|right|UncleSporky Tileset]]
[[Image:UncleSporky_DFTiles2.png|thumb|right|UncleSporky Tileset]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:UncleSporky_curses_800x600.png]]
|author=UncleSporky
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=10×12
|resolution=800×300
|comments=
}}

=== Xenomorph ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Acorntileset.png]]
|author=[[User:Xenomorph|Xenomorph]]
|dated=2008-8-9
|size=8×16
|resolution=640×400
|comments=This is the tileset used by Acorn computers, starting with the BBC Micro. This version is as it would have appeared in 80-column modes (albeit adapted to CP437). [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=408 Download the BMP.]
}}

=== Zaratustra ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_megazeux2.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=8×14
|resolution=640×350
|comments=EGA font with added Megazeux modifications.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_custom800x300ca3.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=10×12
|resolution=800×300, 800×600 (non-reccomended)
|comments=Has an appropriate [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Object_Tilesets#10x12_version object tileset for v0.23.130.23a (now outdated)].
}}

== Tiny tilesets ==

Sets smaller than 8×8. Used for playing in tiny windows, large grids, display massive maps and perhaps videos.

=== Herrbdog ===

[[Image:Herrbdog_7x7.jpg|thumb|right|herrbdog's 7x7 tileset]]
{{Tileset|
image=[[Image:Herrbdog_7x7_tileset.gif]]
|author=[[User:herrbdog|herrbdog]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=7×7
|resolution=560×175
|comments=
}}

=== Kein ===

[[Image:Kein_400x125.gif|thumb|right|Kein's 5x5]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Kein_400x125.png]]
|author=[[User:Kein|Kein]]
|dated=2008-8-7
|size=5×5
|resolution=400×125
|comments=A large 257x257 DFMA world gen map can be found [http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-3278-5x5largeworldmap here.]Updated 08/06/08. Changed most text characters as well as some others to 4x4 with blackspace to avoid tiling. Most characters have been revised to be spaced out to be more distinguishable in such a small set. After seeing the dev update earlier today about increasing your view size I decided to create this small font. This has been built completely from scratch, mostly while at work today. I may be making a shaded version in the future. The first image to the right is from the Abeyverse succession game.
}}

=== Lord Nightmare ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord Nightmare 6x6font01.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare
|dated=2007-11-5
|size=6×6
|resolution=480×150
|comments=Made in 5 hours on 11/5/07 (I was bored and dissatisfied with other fonts). Most glyphs are really 5×6, with a seperator column.
}}

[[Image:Nightmare_6x6_v2.jpg|thumb|right|Lord Nightmare's 6x6 v2]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord Nightmare 6x6font02.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare
|dated=2007-11-12
|size=6×6
|resolution=480×150
|comments=Version 2.05. Updated 11/12/07 to de-fuzz uppercase letters, added serifs and clarified lowercase letters, made horizontal spacing consistent throughout character set, fixed one error in the double horizontal-left-right, single-vertical-up-down character, made exclamation points consistent, thinned out question mark and inverse question mark, sharpened sideways stemless arrows, clarified international characters, and clarified some greek letters. Since v2.0: fixed 'i' 'g', fixed Yen symbol, fixed smiley 0x01 to not have an extra line to its right, lowered the period and colon characters, fixed position of 'x'. Thanks to Markavian for ideas on how to improve the font, as well as an occasional character glyph.
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Lord-Nightmare-Terminal-4x6.png]]
|author=Lord Nightmare/Microsoft
|dated=2008-1-27
|size=4×6
|resolution=320×150
|comments=A DF conversion of the 4x6 variant of Microsoft's 'Terminal' Font. Note that I have left the font entirely alone other than converting it, so several glyphs are indistinguishable from one another!
}}

=== Markavian ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Mkv_curses_480x150.png]]
|author=[[User:Markavian|Markavian]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=6×6
|resolution=480×150
|comments=The first version the tiny tileset, superceded by the version below.
}}

[[Image:mark_6x6_v2.jpg|thumb|right|Markavian's 6x6 v2]]
{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Mkv_curses_480x150_v2.png]]
|author=[[User:Markavian|Markavian]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=6×6
|resolution=480×150
|comments=My second version of the tiny tileset, for uber small resolution DF, with improved visibility of several symbols.
Available in [http://mkv25.net/showcase/df/mkv_curses%2012x12%20and%206x6%20v2.zip mkv curses 12×12 and 6×6 v2.zip].
}}

=== Terbert ===

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:terbert_7x7.png]]
|author=[[User:Terbert|Terbert]]
|dated=2009-6-30
|size=7×7
|resolution=560×175
|comments=This is a 7x7 tileset made for overseeing large constructions
}}

=== Zaratustra ===

[[Image:Zara_4x6.jpg|thumb|right|Zaratustra's 4x6]]
[[Image:Zara_5x6.jpg|thumb|right|Zaratustra's 5x6]]

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_custom_4x6.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=4×6
|resolution=320×150
|comments=
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_custom_5x5.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2008-11-20
|size=5×5
|resolution=400×125, 800×250, 800×500
|comments=
}}

{{Tileset|
|image=[[Image:Zaratustra_custom_5x6.png]]
|author=[[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]]
|dated=2007-10-30
|size=5×6
|resolution=400×150, 800×300, 800×600
|comments=
}}

[[Category:Mods]]
[[Category:Interface]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-09-15T18:54:15Z

Kupochama: /* Wound effects */ various grammar, fun link

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a singe weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It might also be a good idea to use a point or two for swiming, otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. You will see the Mayor (purple) as well as the occational townsperson. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the major and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but barring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way. Beware, you won't be able to swim if you are hungry, thirsty or if you haven't slept for a day or two. If you get drowsy, just find a bed in a city or just find a good place to sleep. Avoid sleeping in an hostile place, if you don't want to have a bit too much fun.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]]

=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - food, weapons, clothing, and two kinds of trinkets (incidentally, armor and clothing is sold in the same building). As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one 1-tale wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding a Quest ===
At this present point Quests can only be taken from people of leadership in an organization.

Human Weapon Masters: No matter what time of the day, human weapon masters will be in the mead hall, where you appear. However, if it is late they will immediately head for their homes so you may need to intercept them before they reach the door. The human capitals are not very different from the normal towns; humans have no central leadership so each weapon master is only a local leader of their own town, even at the capital the weapon master only rules the capital itself and not the other towns. Ignore the keeps; unless you're playing with a mod like LL no leaders hang out in the Keeps.

High Priests: Humans and Goblins will often suggest you ask the High Priest for quests but in all my times of doing this all this will do is allow you to join their religion. If you want to join the religion, the High Priest, as long as it is a reasonable time of day, should be wandering around the temple. Worth a visit at least as Temples are often the most interesting parts of a town/dark fortress because there are so many different kinds.

Dwarven Mayors/Kings/Queens: Hit and miss finding them, you'll generally find them on the outside of the fort but sometimes they move around; some have been known to run out of the fort and became a migrant unable to give out quests. Both Mayors and

Kings/Queens can be found and both will assign Quests, which is nice. If you can't find them outside the fort you shouldn't really bother as mountainhomes take forever to search. As one might imagine the Kings/Queens can only be found at the Capital.

Elven Druids: Druids, who look like flashing peasants, are generally found in the middle of their Forest Retreats but it can be a bit hit and miss as well. Just keep looking; they don't usually seem to move and hopefully will be in the same place once the Quest is completed. Probably the 2nd easiest to fine as you just look around the Forest. Despite people saying they dislike the Elves, in adventure mode they invariably give out the best Quests because Elves are not attacked by normal animals, so the only targets for your Quests will be Mega/Semi-Megabeasts or the leaders of enemy factions. Even though elves do have a capital there is nothing special to see there; still only one Druid who is only in charge of the Retreat, not the civ.

Goblin Weaponmasters/Demons: Probably the hardest to find; most Dark Fortresses are multitowered making it very difficult to find the leaders as there are several multifloored towers with twisty passages. Generally they will be in the tallest tower but this is not a definite fact. Sadly, they move around sometimes and are very difficult to find. The Demons are only in the Capital while weaponmasters exist in every Dark Fortress as local leaders. The goblins often have fun Quests as they generally seem to be at war with other civs.

Kobold Weaponmasters: Often hanging around the middle of a kobold cave camp; however, these guys cannot talk to you and as a result cannot give you a Quest (although you can use them to train your Sword skill)

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

=== Combat ===
== The Weapons ==
Weapons are basically divided into ax, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle ax, great ax and halberd. The battle ax does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great ax is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

== Weapon Tactics ==
Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.

Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.

Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).

Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.

Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.

Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

== Non-weapon tactics ==

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be preformed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

=== Wounds ===
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

== Wound indicators ==
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is affecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career.

== Wound effects ==
Hands: Damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to [[fun]] in the future.

Feet: Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs: Similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive, you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms: Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head: Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. It's usually not possible to bleed to death from eye loss, though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got, and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body: Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine, liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects; namely, heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which makes the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine, which has similar effects to the upper spine.

== Attack types and their wounds ==
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

== Dealing with wounds ==
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possiblity is to asked your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big and they should be pretty capible since you trained them.

==== The Perils of the Wild ====

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Heres a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.

Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block still is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.

Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.

Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.

Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win

Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.

Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.

Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.

Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.

Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.

Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.

Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.

Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.

Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.

Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.

Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.

Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.

Frogman: No not those things Race Banon was always killing, but half man half frogs that live in underground water. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.

Iron man: Millionaire Tony Stark puts on his…oops wrong one. Ironmen are like firemen but less dangerous because they aren’t on fire. They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue. They appear only in chasms.

Leechman: Half man, Half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.

Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.

Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.

Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway.

Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.

Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.

Ogre: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.

Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Golum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely. (personal note: Olms are pretty damn awesome things (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olm) they’re even on the money in one country.)

Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.

Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.

Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.

Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.

Troglodyte: Small, reptilian creatures that live underground. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.

Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an ogre. Kill them both the same way.

Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.

Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.

Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.

Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.

Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTILATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.

Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you? Fucking Nazi.

Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.

Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.

Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.

Dog: WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?

Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.

Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.

Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary

Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see. If you do however, its proper to light them on fire and scream “YIFF IN HELL”.

Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.

Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.

Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.

Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.

Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.

Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)

Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rouge and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.

Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.

Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats. (On a personal note, I once found a goat named Bonecrusher or something like that, which only had one leg. One leg and 7 kills, including a Swordmaster. Don’t fuck with that goat)

Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.

Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.

Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.

Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.

Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.

Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.

Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.

Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine.

=== Modifiers ===
Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer effected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong.

Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.
[size=3]

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

Metal bolts are quite heavy and expensive, so if you wish to train in this skill it would probably be a good idea to raid an old fortress of yours first and get all the wooden/bone bolts there.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Exploration ===

== Basic exploration tips ==
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that allusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

== Fortress exploration tips. ==
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed there’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too greedily and too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.

= The advantages of Fortress exploration =
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

= Preparation =
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep raped your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

= Plumbing the Deep =

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

= What to do with all your newly acquired wealth =

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Starting build

2009-08-31T10:14:43Z

Kupochama: /* Matching skills to a dwarf's personal profile */ spelling, wording, wikify, etc

:* Your First Fortress?
:''Note: If you are a new player looking for a solid basis to survive the first couple of months or years, check out [[Your_first_fortress|this guide]]. It includes a basic starting build aimed at being fail-safe.''

A '''starting build''' is a personal strategy for choosing the initial supplies, equipment, and [[skill]]s of your initial seven dwarves when starting a new game in [[fortress mode]]. These skills and items which you assign to your dwarves will have a large impact on life in your new fortress, especially in its first year.

This page attempts to give advice on some of the many gameplay elements which influence the flow of your game based on your goals. These include: choosing a ''fortress site'', the ''starting build'' itself, as well as ''challenge builds'' aimed at providing new or unusual challenges to advanced players.

But one thing should be made clear - there is no "best" build, no "perfect" or "clearly superior" final mix of skills and items. There are too many variables to connect, not the least of which is... you! Your play style, what you, as an individual player, consider preferable for the proper mix of fun and challenge. And then there is the environment, where your dwarfs will arrive, the creatures, the resources available, and so forth.

Items are tied to starting skills, and starting skills are tied to the expected environment for your chosen embark, and all are tied to your preferences for playing the game - not all sites require (or invite) the same approach, and no two players would take the same approach to the same environment.

So while suggestions can be made, and new ideas presented for your consideration, ultimately the final "best" mix for you will have to come from your experience, which will begin to grow during your first game. Without understanding "everything", some decisions will just have to be guesswork - and even later you never know "everything".

= Components of a Starting Build =
A starting build must be seen as a whole - the embark location affects the needed supplies, and influences what skills may be most needed or useful. Along with this is player preferences - if you wish an economy based on [[prepared meal]]s, [[glass]], or [[steel]], each of those have very different requirements. Likewise, if you want to play a military game, fighting off sieges with huge battles, that's a very different mix (and different site requirements) than if you want a calm location to build your perfect [[mega construction]].

=== Skills ===
You can't take every skill, so you have to balance what you do take. The considerations are several:

:* Maximizing starting skill ranks vs. generalizing and having more skills covered at lower levels.
:* Balancing multiple skills for a single dwarf, so they aren't constantly needed for two different tasks at critical periods
:* Military vs economic needs
:* Your goals vs "basic survival needs" to keep your fortress healthy and happy.
:* Speed that a skill can be trained in game
:* Demand for a skill during a game
:* Whether quality or speed are significant considerations for tasks/final product

While there are some arguable "no-brainer" choices, the final few selections are often a coin toss, or close to. And there is often more than one way to skin a cat - in fact, while many players recommend ''never'' starting with more than one cat, cat breeding (for leather, bones and meat) is one way to go with a fortress. Until you have some personal experience, the various suggestions and advice may mean little, but will have more meaning after your first fortress inevitably fails - [[Losing|losing is fun]].

=====Matching skills to a dwarf's personal profile=====
Taking the time to {{k|v}}iew each of your individual dwarves and matching skills to their [[preference]]s can be very advantageous; if you have a dwarf who likes [[steel]], [[clear glass]], [[crossbow]]s, [[siege engine]] parts, or something else equally interesting, they're an ideal candidate for matching skills.

Likewise, if they have any obviously relevant [[personality]] strengths or weaknesses, those should be factored in. Some are obscure or ambiguous, but some ("Is constantly active and energetic") are a clear sign.

=== Items ===
The starting items are what is needed for your dwarfs to survive until they are self-sufficient, or at least until the first yearly [[caravan]]s will keep them afloat. The first won't show up until Autumn, so that's more than 2 seasons your dwarves are on their own.

A dwarf eats about 2 meals a season, and drinks about 4 drinks in that same time. For 7, that's about 30 meals (7 dwarfs x 2 seasons x 2 meals) and about twice that in alcohol. You can bring all of that, or your [[hunter]]s, [[Plant gathering|plant gatherers]], [[fisherdwarf]]s, [[grower]]s and [[brewer]]s can provide some or most of it. It's always safer to bring enough, and see how things go - losing a fortress to starvation before the first caravan is a painful process.

Most of the finished products are expensive to buy pre-embark, and so a minimum is recommended - maybe a pick or two for immediate mining and basic defense, maybe an axe or two for better defense and cutting wood, thread, cloth or a rope for a [[well]], maybe a few leather to make bags, and call it good.

But you can make any and all of those from scratch if you are willing to wait - and your [[surroundings]] don't kill you first. Raw materials are much cheaper, in the form of [[ore]]s, [[wood]], [[leather]] and so forth.

====Your civilization====
On the map menu, if you hit {{k|Tab}} twice, you will see a list of possible [[Civilization]]s that your dwarfs can start from, if there is more than one. Each can have access to different starting equipment and material to offer you - some will be significantly better or worse supplied, and some may be lacking one key item you desire, while another will lack something else equally as critical to your plan. Unfortunately you will only find out when selecting your items, after selecting a [[location]]. To chose another Civilization requires a start-over. Another important difference is whether your civilization is at [[war]] with one of the neighbours; This results in early attacks on your fort and, obviously, no trade [[caravan]]s from them.

If you don't like the civilization you chose, or wish to compare what each has to offer, you must use {{k|Esc}} and select "Abort Game", which puts you back at the main game menu. You must then Start again, reload the game world, and find the same embark site - this is not difficult if you made careful notes, but is still a bit of a pain, no doubt.

Every such re-start gives you a different mix of dwarfs with different names, [[personalities]] and [[preference]]s, but the civilizations are part of the map and stay constant. The default civilization chosen for you will vary, however.

===Saving a starting mix===
Once you have the mix of items and skills that you like, you can hit {{k|s}} and save it to a template with a custom name. In a later game, you can pick that profile when you embark. If your selected civilization does not have some of the desired items in your template, this is announced clearly, and a different civilization can be tried as described above, or you can continue and change your mix.

If you match skills to the [[preference]]s and [[personalities]] of your dwarfs, it may be an idea not to include any skills in such a template, as they will simply be applied in the original order to the current dwarves as they appear on the list.

If you find additional items that you wish to add (perhaps another type of cheap meat, or an ore not previously available), you can edit those in by hitting {{k|s}}, overwriting your old template.

:''(You can also go into the .txt file, located at data/init/embark_profiles, and edit in the SKILLS or ITEMS as you want - the syntax is fairly straightforward.)''

= Site considerations =
Each fortress [[location]] offers particular challenges and opportunities, and can make different demands on your starting build. The starting builds below should be adjusted depending on the [[region]] your fort occupies, the specific vision you have of your fortress, and what it will take to [[losing|stay alive]] where you're going!

The differences include what [[biome]]s, [[region]]s and stone [[layer]]s are present in your chosen embark site, as viewable on the starting menu.

=== General Surroundings ===
Simply put, if your [[surroundings]] are [[evil]] or [[savage]], your dwarfs have a higher risk of suddenly facing personal combat before they are safely behind their defenses. Consider bringing extra weaponry, in the form of axes, picks or crossbows (see [[Starting_builds#Free_Equipment|free equipment]]). Hand in hand with those, consider skill mixes that include [[axedwarf]], [[mining]] (the skill used to wield a pick), [[marksdwarf]], or [[wrestling]] (a solid unarmed-combat skill).

The same is true if you are embarking near an exposed magma vent or an open chasm - these features can be seen on the embark map, but it's impossible to tell if they are "open" to the surface or not, until you are there in person.

Be sure to include some source of [[water]] on the map, preferably running [[water]]. Water is (almost) essential for any fortress. In Cold and Freezing climates streams and [[lake]]s will often be frozen year-round and your dwarves may quickly die of exposure, in Hot climates [[murky pool]]s will dry up, and in Dry ones rain will only rarely re-fill them, if ever. Choose Temperate or tropical zones for an easier game.

===Aquifers===
If an [[aquifer]] is present in the first soil or stone layers (visible on the pre-embark menu), it may bar all access to [[stone]] and [[ore]] until you find a way through the water barrier. Bringing some stone for building, and ore for your first basic needs, may be critical.

=== Mountains ===
Mountains often have abundant [[ore]]s, but at the loss of trees and plants. [[Magma]] and rare [[metal]]s lure settlers here, but [[goblins]], [[chasm]] dwellers, and [[giant eagle]]s are potent threats. You'll want to include non-mountainous areas in your embark area to obtain lumber and food - or, failing this, to pack a lot of extra food and logs.

Depending on the exact layers, it's common to find exposed [[vein]]s of useful [[ore]]s that can be immediately mined for [[DIY]] weapons and tools.

=== Wooded/Plains ===
Flatlands with at least some trees and gatherable plants can also make for highly successful fortresses. Advantages over mountain zones include abundant trees and plants, guaranteed agriculture both on the surface and underground, and (unless frozen) more abundant water. There are even (rare) magma vents. More water also means a high likelyhood of an [[aquifier]] being present. Make sure to check on embark.

The greatest disadvantage is the potential lack of exposed [[stone]] to mine. Fewer elevations means fewer exploitable z-levels. The first level(s) below the surface is often [[soil]] of some type, which offers no building material and only rarely useful ores. However, soil is mined much more quickly than stone (x3-x4 faster), and expansive accommodations (rooms) can be achieved quickly even by untrained miners. You will find stone, you just have to go down a bit for it - but that's what dwarves do, isn't it?

[[Experience|Training]] a [[Miner]] from No Skill to Proficient takes less than a season in soil, and to Legendary in less than another.

=== Oceanside ===
With many features in common with some of the above locations, [[beach]]es are often a mix of ease intermingled with bouts of extreme difficulty. Minerals and trees are often abundant, as well as farmland and sand, but there is often no drinking water unless the biome has a flowing [[water]] of some sort.

By definition, the settlement will fall between (at least) two [[biome]]s (one land, one water), potentially hazardous if the player expects a peaceful oceanside meadow, without realizing the [[terrifying]] ocean is full of amphibious zombie [[whale]]s.

=== Desert, Glaciers, and Barren ===
Treeless (or near-treeless) [[biome]]s are challenging sites for a fortress: you get most of the disadvantages of a flatland site without having access to nearly as many trees and plants. However, near-lifeless zones such as [[glacier]]s are wonderful for those with slower machines, as there's little to burden the CPU but your dwarves and livestock. [[Desert]]s and barren areas often have sand; with a sufficient source of energy (preferably magma), you can build almost anything out of unlimited glass.

Hunters should be replaced with fisherdwarfs and a fish cleaner (although the latter can be easily trained). Depending how much water vs. land, more starting wood and ores might be helpful. Swimming is rarely useful in Fortress mode, even at the beach, and can be trained.

= "Play Now!" =
This option gives you an automatic, low-powered and generalized starting mix with no thinking involved. When you pick this option, you currently{{version|0.28.181.40d}} start with:

'''Dwarfs:'''
:* one (no label) [[Miner]] (+2 [[Experience|skill levels]])
& six dwarfs with Novice (+1 skill level) in each of the following skills...
:* [[Engraver]]/ [[Mason]]/ [[Mechanic]]/ [[Building designer|Building Designer]]
:* [[Gem cutter|Gem Cutter]]/ [[Gem setter|Gem Setter]]/ [[Woodcrafter]]/ [[Stonecrafter]]/ [[Bone carver|Bone Carver]]
:* [[Fisherdwarf]]
:* [[Fish cleaner|Fish Cleaner]]/ [[Butcher]]/ [[Tanner]]/ [[Weaver]]/ [[Clothier]]/ [[Leatherworker]]
:* [[Carpenter]]/ [[Bowyer]]
:* [[Wood Cutter]]/ [[Brewer]]/ [[Cook]]/ [[Grower]]/ [[Herbalist]]/ [[Wood burner|Wood Burner]]/ [[Furnace operator|Furnace Operator]]/ [[Lye maker|Lye Maker]]/ [[Potash maker|Potash Maker]]

'''Items:'''
:* 1 iron [[anvil]]
:* 2 steel [[axe]]s
:* 2 copper [[pick]]s
:* 12 barrels of [[alcohol]] (60 units)
:* 2 barrels of meat (two random types, 10 + 5 units)
:* 2 barrels of [[plump helmet]]s (10 + 5 units)
:* 5 Plump helmet [[seed]]s (w/ bag)
:* 5 [[pig tail]] seeds (w/ bag)
:* 2 [[dog]]s (breeding pair)
:* 2 [[cat]]s (breeding pair)
:* 2 [[draft animal]]s (random species, random gender)

As a challenge for an experienced player, this is not uncommon. But even as a starting player you can do much better if you choose the "'''Prepare for the journey carefully'''" option and do just that - prepare carefully, as described below...

="Prepare for the Journey Carefully"=
Good advice. This option allows you complete control over your starting mix of skills and beginning items. By default, your dwarves start with no skills, and you are offered the following items, which are very similar to the "Play Now" mix. Each item costs a number of "points" - you will buy both your starting items ''and'' the starting skills for your dwarfs with one pool of combined points. The point costs for the default items are listed below.

'''Items:'''
:* 2 Copper [[pick]]s (20 each)
:* 2 Steel battle [[axe]]s (300 each)
:* 1 Iron [[anvil]] (1000)
:* 20 alcohol, random1 (2 each, 4 free barrels)
:* 20 alcohol, random1 (2 each, 4 free barrels)
:* 20 alcohol, random1 (2 each, 4 free barrels)
:* 5 Plump helmet spawn(aka seeds) (1 each, 1 free bag)
:* 5 [[Pig tail]] seeds (1 each, 1 free bag)
:* 15 meat or fish of one random (cheap) type (2 each, 2 free barrels2)
:* 15 [[Plump helmet]]s (4 each, 2 free barrels2)
:* (no cats, no dogs)

: 1. There are only 4 different [[alcohol]]s to choose from at this stage, so if two or three of the same are randomly chosen, it's quite possible to start with 40 or 60 of the same type. A wider variety is usually better.
:2. A barrel can hold up to 10 dry items (or 5 wet). One of these barrels is only half full.

With the above items, your point pool starts at 200 (visible in the lower right corner). This is not close to enough points to buy full skills for all your dwarfs, but you can sell back any or all of the above items that you choose and recover the points, spending them as you prefer. This is often achieve quickly and easily by taking only 1 axe (300 points returned), but the possible options are infinite. Some players return the anvil, for an additional 1000. Returning all equipment is worth 2060 points total, but unused points are of no use after embark, once the actual gameplay starts, so spend now or waste them.

=====Using the menu=====
Use {{k|Tab}} to switch between selecting Skills and Items. Use the 4 directional keys or number pad to navigate to highlight the different choices/columns, and {{k|+}} or {{k|-}} to choose more or less of the highlighted item or skill. When viewing items, hit {{k|n}} to go to a menu for any "new" items, that are not currently listed, including any you removed by reducing the number to 0; select the item, hit {{k|Enter}}, then increase the number desired as above ({{k|+}} or {{k|-}}) in the main menu.

If you cannot buy additional skill levels, you are out of points and must return some items for additional points. Higher-priced items will automatically be removed from viewable new items if you do not have enough points for those selections, showing only what you can afford with your current points.

=== Skills ===
At this stage, pre-embark, skills cost a number of starting points, equaling monetary value. Later, during fortress mode, all skills will be trained by practice, and "cost" is no longer a concern. All dwarves start with "No Skill" and the first additional skill level (Novice) costs 5 points. To buy the next level would cost 6, and so on. To buy up Proficient (the max allowed to start with), costs 5+6+7+8+9, or 35 points.

A dwarf can start with up to 10 additional levels, regardless whether that's 10 skills at Novice, or 2 skills at Proficient. So, if you are going to buy the maximum skills allowed (highly recommended), that can cost from between 50 to 70 points each, but usually around 400+ for all 7 dwarves.

Each [[dwarf]] can (over time) learn any or all of a wide variety of [[skills]]. Dwarves with little experience in a skill will work slowly and ineffectively, while dwarfs with higher skill work faster and/or produce a significantly higher quality product. Some skills are not used often, and/or produce no "quality" in the final product, or produce qualities that have little impact on the game - for these it's questionable whether investing in high starting levels is worthwhile, but that's often a judgment call.

* For example inexperienced [[herbalist|herbalists]] will gather stacks of only one or two [[plants]], and often nothing at all, and inexperienced [[farming|farmers]] will often plant stacks of only one or two plants. This results in a small overall output which takes many [[container#container|containers]] to store in, less effective [[food]] preparation in the [[kitchen]], and more space needed for [[stockpiles]].
* Inexperienced [[Miner|miners]] work very slowly and are less likely to recover mined gems or valuable ores. Mining can be levelled up quite quickly by mining [[soil#soil|soil]], but taking two dwarves with at least some points in mining is recommended in many cases.
* In nearly all [[workshop]]s, inexperienced dwarves who create items will only rarely produce high-quality goods, and take a long time doing so. Skilled dwarves work quickly and produce high-quality items far more reliably.
** [[Quality]] is a central concept in the game - it affects [[food]], [[alcohol]], and almost anything you will have your dwarves create in the game: [[trading]] goods, [[barrel|barrels]], [[clothing]], [[armor]], [[furniture]], [[weapons]], and so on. Quality also has a large effect on the worth of an item while [[trading]].

Dwarves improve their skills on a learning-by-doing-basis. Dwarves who have specific labors will attain Dabbling status as soon as they complete one job of that type. (Certain jobs, such as building workshops, won't make your dwarves more experienced. But most will.) As the number of jobs they do increases, their skill will increase as well. Overall, "levelling up" the dwarves' skills quickly is a good game goal to set. Doing so may result in your dwarves efficiently creating a magnificent fortress filled to the brim with valuable items and [[furniture]]. (Or it might [[losing|not]].)

Using and seeing high-quality items gives dwarves happy [[thought]]s. This tends to decrease the incidences of [[tantrum]]s, increasing a fortress's longevity.

==== Which skills do I need, really? ====

The only thing that you absolutely must do in the first year is get your food supplies into a food stockpile, preferably inside, otherwise your food will rot on the ground and your dwarves will starve. Anything else you want to do can be accommodated by sufficient investment in initial food supplies and/or skills. This means the options for possible starting builds are vast because virtually any set of starting skills for your dwarves is viable (and that's before you even think about equipment, which adds more variables).

In the longer term a few other constraints may influence your choices of skills:

#Some skills are harder to gain experience in than others - requiring valuable resources or taking an extended period of time, and thus inconvenient to train from the ground up. Investing in some of these extensively in your initial dwarves can make those industries much less painful to start. For example, metal-related skills generally eat metal bars, and thus the less time you spend training metal workers up to a decent level, the faster they'll be churning out high-quality items for you, and the fewer bars they'll waste becoming skilled. On the other hand, despite its importance, skills like mining train relatively quickly and barring extenuating circumstances (expected need to accomplish particular digging projects in the first month or you'll get mauled by a Giant for example) there's little need to actually invest your starting skills in it - they can learn on the job.
#Keep in mind that some skills are used to make [[legendary artifact]]s, and successfully making an artifact will give the dwarf a lot of experience in the used skill. It can be worth investing in some skills solely to bias your artifact skill pool in the hopes of getting a legendary dwarf in an industry you want to really get working on a year or two in. (See [[Strange mood]]s for more info.)
#While its possible to feed your fortress on nothing but caravan goods, you'll never come by enough alcohol that way, so you'll eventually need to grow crops for brewing, and dwarfs will literally go crazy if forced to drink nothing but water for long periods. Thus you'll want to plan for farming eventually. Not that you need to bring a highly skilled [[Grower]], but it'll certainly be ''very'' helpful. Likewise, a skilled [[brewer]] produces higher quality alcohol, which improves your dwarves' mood, as does a skilled [[cook]] with the foods they prepare. However, most food can be eaten raw, and so long as they are not starving there is life.
#If you plan on settling in a dangerous area, consider including at least some military skills, if not a dedicated [[soldier]], or several. The nature of the environment should dictate the military skills chosen (for example, marksdwarves will be an ineffective counter to expected roving hordes of [[skeletal]] wildlife).

The following skills will be "used", to one extent or another, by virtually every fortress:
:[[Mining]] - to dig your fortress, and gain stone for projects
:[[Carpentry]] - [[bed]]s can (moods aside) only be made from [[wood]]
:[[Masonry]] - to build walls and stairs, and fashion dwarven furniture from stone
:[[Grower|Growing]] - farmers
:[[Brewing]]
:[[Cooking]] - it is absolutely not necessary, but its benefits are so vast that it's hard to ignore
:[[Mechanics]] - if you want traps, and most people will. Also needed for most machinery
:[[Metalsmith|Metalworking skill(s)]] - if you want anything from metal
:[[Architecture|Building Designer]] - mandatory for some buildings and constructions, but skill only improves speed a tad and increases structure [[value]]
:Some select [[Administrator]] and/or [[Broker skills]], most importantly [[appraiser]] - for [[trade|trading]], and for the dwarf who [[leader|leads]] your fortress
:[[Military]] skills - hard not to have combat at some point, but whether sooner or later is the question

Many other skills will certainly be used, but not often enough (or critical enough) to spend (many? any?) points on for your beginning dwarves - remember, '''any skill can be used untrained, and/or get trained on the job''' - it just means a slower process and/or average lower quality product than if done by a dwarf with a higher [[experience|skill level]].

Every other skill is only useful if you want it to be. Skills have to be balanced against your play-style, the environment (danger, ores, other resources), the relative value of the final product, and what you must give up to gain those skills.

Of the above, Masonry, Growing, Brewing, Cooking, and Mechanics are generally worth considering as "highly desirable" starting skills for your dwarves. Carpentry is used, but beds and buckets are just not worth that much [[value]]-wise ''(10's of dwarfbucks vs 100's for stone furniture or 1000's for armor or prepared foods, for instance)'', so the difference in monetary value between high-quality and no-quality is minor for wood products. However, high-quality [[bed]]s are one of the easiest ways to help make and keep your dwarves [[thought|happy]] (since every dwarf will encounter a bed regularly), so some players swear by it. Mining is important but also fast to train, so one or two (semi-)skilled miners is usually ample. Once you have some seeds, your Grower can produce any above-ground plant better than in the wild, so [[Herbalism]] is often used only early in the game to gather some sample plants and never again, so "unskilled" covers many players' needs there. Skill in butchery produces nothing of "quality" (meat is meat) and speed is usually not a consideration for the typical demand (butchering unwanted offspring, like kittens), and you'll be able to easily train a bonecarver (or end up with [[legendary]] skill from a [[mood]]) and tanner off a [[migrant]], so these three are less critical to start with. A minimum of Leadership skills are highly recommended to start with at the novice level - it'll make your life much easier (especially Novice level of [[Appraiser]], at least).

Of course, even near-certainty that you will use these skills doesn't mean you have to start with dwarves already skilled in them. Ultimately the answer to "What skills do I need?" is "Whichever ''you'' want". Choosing a mixture of these commonly used skills and your desired specialized skills will make starting up your fortress easier and more efficient.

====Generalist vs Specialist====
Any dwarf can have any labor designated, and they will perform that task and learn or improve that skill, even if they have no skill related to that labor when they start. So you don't need an example of every skill. A skilled dwarf will produce a better [[quality]] product, and/or do it faster, but if that's rarely used, "faster" doesn't mean as much. Many jobs have no real "product", and so no quality modifiers - plant gathering, wood cutting, wood burning, smelting, animal trainer, etc. etc. merely produce "stuff", not "quality stuff", or may not be used very often, and/or not be used much after the first year of the fortress. There are as many opinions about balancing generalists with specialists as their are players.

Some skills are also trained up fairly quickly or cheaply, especially where the task consumes no (valuable) materials, or doesn't matter in the final product - mining, furnace operator, wood cutting, butcher, tanner, glass making and (especially) [[administrator]] skills being only a few examples.

Another consideration are [[attributes]] - a dwarf with 10 skills at Novice each has 5000 [[Experience#Increasing skills|experience]], or just over 2 [[attribute]]s, while a dwarf with 2 skills at Proficient has 7000 experience, or almost 3 attributes. One extra Agility can make a big difference in tasks, one extra Strength or Toughness make the difference in an unexpected combat, etc. etc.

==== Combining Skills ====
Some [[skills]] are highly time-consuming, and working at different jobs levels up specific [[attribute]]s. One could level up a miner until he becomes mighty and ultra-tough - and then turn him into a soldier, or retire him to haul stone. If you plan on doing so, it may not be a good idea to give this guy a second critical job that will demand a lot of time away from their focus. There are many parts to a suit of armour, so armoursmithing will take more time than weaponsmithing - once you have one weapon per soldier, he's done. Masons, miners, growers, and any craft that your fortress will base their economy off of (glass, stonecrafts, armour, etc) will take a lot of time.

Since tasks will take place in specific areas, another approach is to combine tasks into dwarves who will take care of a specific industry, or spend all their time in one generally narrow part of the fortress - the forges, or the kitchens, or outdoors, for instance. So combining Farming with cooking, rather than mining, for example, and turn on only Haul Food, not Haul Stone. Woodcutter/Herbalist/Mason/Axedwarf (for outdoor walls/projects) might be another combination - the possibilities are endless.

Some combinations follow naturally in sequence to each other, but also can conflict with each other. One animal is butchered, then the leather is tanned, and the meat is cooked. But if you have 5 animals, several will rot before one dwarf can process all of those. A highly skilled craftsdwarf is often better suited at sitting in their [[workshop]] and having others deliver raw materials to them, than going out and obtaining their own raw materials themselves.

Many builds recommend combinations such as:

* '''Outdoors''': Woodcutter/Plant Gatherer. Add [[axeman|Axedwarf]] for added security.
* '''Mason+____''' : In many fortresses, the Mason is a very busy dwarf. He could be a spare miner, have abilities that are only rarely needed, or do tasks that can be accomplished quickly like [[building designer]].
* '''Farmer/Cook, Farmer/Brewer'''. Basic two-person food team.
* '''Farmer/Herbalist, Farmer/Brewer/Cook'''. One bold dwarf to farm and venture outside looking for wild plants, the other to keep busy in the [[still]], kitchen, and indoor farms.
* '''Boss''': Novice [[Negotiator]]/Novice [[Judge of intent]]/Novice [[Appraiser]]. This guy will be your [[Leader]] and [[Trader]]; you can make him [[record keeper]] too (the default), at least to start with. Combine this with a single time-intensive task such as [[Masonry]] and optionally turn off all hauling tasks right at the start of the game. Or keep him a generalist, or combine with one of the other options.
* '''Weaponsmith/Leatherworker''': If they're not arming your military, they're making leather armor for them.
* '''[[Craftsdwarf]]''', depending on your strategy - e.g. [[glass]] maker, [[weaponsmith]] or [[armorsmith]], sometimes combined with related tasks from that industry ([[furnace operating]], [[wood burner|wood burning]]). Typically an item hauler in the initial months of your fortress, this dwarf may become one of your most valuable dwarves later.

Not all combinations have to "look right" together. A weaponsmith will most probably not spend nearly 100% of their time creating weapons - what they do with the other part of their time may have nothing at all to do with forges or smithing.

* '''Grower/GemCutter''' (or Grower/x-Craft): When gems are found, he's there, otherwise he's outstanding in his fields.
* '''Mechanic/Brewer''': usually produces the mechanized defenses, but does moonshining when it's called for.
* '''Miner/______''': This dwarf will quickly become legendary in mining, and then retire to pursue something else full time. On call for important veins of high-value ore.
* '''Brewer/Appraiser/Leatherworker''': several typically low-demand skills
* '''StoneCrafter/Herbalist''' - after quickly finding above-ground plants for seeds for the first season, they never go back unless something goes wrong.
* '''(x-Craft)/Armor User''': Plan for the future - armor using is slow to train in if this dwarf is ever going to join the military.

You can max out one skill and have several lower-level skills additionally, or just several skills that are not maxed out - the combinations are (almost) infinite.

Combinations like these often have one [[moodable]] skill and one non-moodable (or a less desired moodable skill at lower level), so any mood will improve the desired one.

==== Combining Skills for Moods ====

[[Strange mood]]s will create a Legendary skill of the "moodable" skill with the highest level, and moods take hold of dwarfs with different professions at different rates. Some skills are "moodable" where others are not. Another consideration is to place desired moodable skills with non-moodable, to ensure that both the professions and highest skills stay as preferred. Usually this involves one "craft" skill and one "farmer" type skill, such as Armor/Cook, or Weapon/Brewer. This can take some manipulation, and is not of primary concern to many players.

=== Items ===

An experienced player can start out with no skills for their starting dwarves, 2 copper nuggets and an anvil - and nothing else - and have [[Make_your_own_weapons#Minimalist_challenge_build|everything they need]]. So what is "needed" is up to what you think is "fun" vs. "too hard" etc. etc. etc.

Some basics are recommended for all builds. Unless you plan unless to [[DIY]], you definitely need to bring one [[pick]] for each [[miner]], and if you plan to gather wood, you need an [[axe]], which will become a weapon in wartime. Also a minimum of about 25-30* [[food]] and about 55-60* [[alcohol]], which should get 7 dwarfs through to the first [[caravan]] in Fall. Everything else depends on your strategy and on how tough or leisurely a challenge you want the game to be.

::''(* A single dwarf eats about 2x/season, and drinks about 4x/season. With 7 dwarfs that's ~approximately~ 14 meals per season and 28 alcohol per season, or ~28 meals and ~56 alcohol until the end of Summer. The Caravan is due sometime in Autumn, usually early Autumn, in the second week or so, but the first won't have enough to keep you going until whenever the next one arrives. Hopefully you'll have some food and brewing industry going by the first, or soon after.)''

Note: Many builds recommend that you bring many different cheap foods, in quantities ending in a "1" (1, 11, 21, etc.), and alcohols in amounts ending in a "1" or "6". This is to maximize the number of free [[barrels]] you start with; dry foodstuffs fit 10/barrel, and (pre-embark) alcohol fits 5/. More barrels will let you build a larger stockpile for your first winter and conserves the [[wood]] you need to cut and shape in the early game for beds and other necessities. (Seeds are 100/bag, and you don't need near that many of any one type, so 6 bags max with this approach.)

===== Items for moods =====
When a dwarf is taken by a [[strange mood]], they often need obscure material or they will go insane and die, possibly with severe consequences to an entire fortress. Bringing along some of the harder to find ores ([[cassiterite]], [[sphalerite]], [[bismuthinite]], [[garnierite]]) and shells ([[cave lobster]], [[turtle]]), and putting those aside, forbidding their use "just in case", is spending a few points on an insurance policy. Bringing along a few bits of cloth thread is a good idea. Just in case.

===== Free Equipment =====

Dwarves who start with the ambusher skill may get some leather [[armor]], a crossbow and some bolts for free.
: As of 27.176.40, this appears to only be true if they have no civilian trade skills - military and social skills are fine, and administrator skills so long as they are not higher than Ambusher. Replace any of those skills with something civilian and they show up in street clothes.

=Sample starting builds=
See [[starting build design]]

{{Starting FAQ}}
[[Category:Guides]]

User talk:Kupochama

2009-05-27T21:17:14Z

Kupochama:

Joined to make comments and add what little I didn't learn through this site. Posting here just to give the page some content. [[User:Kupochama|Kupochama]] 10:03, 22 May 2009 (UTC)
:Welcome to the madhouse.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 12:07, 22 May 2009 (UTC)

:I noticed you uploaded a screenshot of your fort. The [[Dwarf Fortress Map Archive]] has great tools for this and will let you add screenshots in 4 dimensions (simultaneous 2D screenshots of each layer, for as many points in time as you care to save and upload). The flash tool lets you look around, and you can use the Wiki or the forums to get advice if you've got a particularly ugly setup. --[[User:Jurph|Jurph]] 12:10, 27 May 2009 (UTC)

::Thanks for the tip...I'd seen that before, but forgot it existed. I'm surprised it (seems to) support other tilesets, too. --[[User:Kupochama|Kupochama]] 21:17, 27 May 2009 (UTC)

User:Kupochama

2009-05-27T09:35:32Z

Kupochama: Damn Toady for not adding the word "glass" to the fort name dictionary.

Hi. Email is a problem, so contact me through my talk page, I guess.

As is tradition, I'll be keeping a makeshift log of my current dwarf-related activities.

== Current Fortress ==

*'''Game:''' Mayday v18 version of the game itself, but with graphics disabled and [[Tileset_repository#Anikki|Anikki's]] 10x10 tileset swapped in. 100x60 grid, so 1000x600 windowed resolution. Nice to work with so far.
*'''World:''' The Portentious Dimension. A "smaller" place consisting of a central ocean surrounded by an evil forest, a neutral forest, and a huge marble mountain range. 100 years of known history.
*'''Fort:''' Arol Thestarzafal, "Under the Crimson Air". I prefer random names, but it's too [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsukihime convenient] to waste.
**'''Size:''' 2x2. I got sick of dealing with so much wilderness.
**'''Stuff:''' Magma pipe and little else. A middle-of-the-road forest that happened to be the only magma in the world without an aquifer. Well, except that wasteland, but I'd rather have a wood supply. Incidentally, most of the upper layers appear to be obsidian-based.
**'''Crew:''' Seven dwarves, four war dogs, three horses, and a mule. Forgot the cat at home, so insects will be a problem. The trade representative, a.k.a. Overseer, is also the sole miner.
**'''Gear:''' One axe, no anvil, about 80 drinks, about 60 food, about 50 logs, and a few dozen of every seed known to dwarf.

== Status Report ==

Early Summer, 100. Not much going on, and construction is taking forever, but the food and furniture industries are running and a barracks is carved out on floor B15 (which is why it took forever). The only wildlife seen so far consists of 3 groundhogs and roughly 50 swarms of insects. Oh, and we struck gold in the stairway of B13-B14. It'll be extracted once we get some nobles who demand elaborate bedrooms, I suppose.

Due to kobold-related paranoia, a trench is being dug around the edges of the territory. Hopefully the autumn caravan will make it through...we already have too many obsidian mugs. Other immediate concerns include processing cloth for rope and bags, and hopefully expanding the lumber industry to provide more arrows and containers.

[[File:Under the Crimson Air.PNG|480px|thumb|center|Arol Thestarzafal, Summer 100.]]

File:Under the Crimson Air.PNG

2009-05-27T09:14:18Z

Kupochama: The current state of my fortress, for diary's sake.

The current state of my fortress, for diary's sake.

40d Talk:Fortress name

2009-05-27T08:30:06Z

Kupochama: Created page with 'The formatting used for the name and examples here seemed somewhat off, apparently being based on older versions. If my edit seems wrong, please alter it. (I'm using v0.28.181.40...'

The formatting used for the name and examples here seemed somewhat off, apparently being based on older versions. If my edit seems wrong, please alter it. (I'm using v0.28.181.40d11, the build that comes with the Mayday graphic set. Might differ somehow.) --[[User:Kupochama|Kupochama]] 08:30, 27 May 2009 (UTC)

40d:Fortress name

2009-05-27T08:26:42Z

Kupochama: Updated name format, tried to make the examples more accurate.

== Naming your Fortress ==

Has no effect on gameplay, but there are a lot of options in this menu (accessible by pressing {{key|F}} on the [[Starting builds|Prepare Carefully screen]]). You can also set the name of the expedition, which uses the same interface.

Fortress names have this format:

'''[Front][Rear] the [Adj 1] [Adj 2] [hyphen compound]-["the" Noun] of ["of" noun]'''

=== Front Compound ===

Forms the first half of your fortress's name. Choose from an extremely long list of words.

Press {{key|c}} to clear a word selection--your fortress does not need ANY of these words to be chosen (i.e. a blank name) to be legal.

Press {{key|e}} to search for a word (in English), works just like the provisions search. Hitting enter will move from the type back to the search results.

=== Rear Compound ===

Forms the second half of your fortress's name, which are combined with no spaces (Foobar instead of Foo Bar).

=== Adjectives (First and Second) ===

At first glance, it appears these do nothing, but they give up to two words after your compound word (above) separated by spaces that are the adjectives to The X or Of X word choice (see below).

=== Hyphen Compound ===

Adds a third word joined by a hyphen to your The X or Of X word (below).

=== The X and Of X ===

Examples:

*Foobar the Great

*Foobar of Death

With Adjectives and Hyphen compound:

*Foobar the Great Moral Thraal-Generals

*Foobar the Goblin-Chunks of Exploding

With no front & rear compounds:

*The Great Deadly Foobar

*The Foobar of Foobars

*Of Foobars

[[Category: world]]

Talk:Main Page/archive2

2009-05-22T10:21:29Z

Kupochama:

{{Archive|
# [[Talk:Main Page/archive1|Archive 1]]
}}

== World Painter Page ==
The wiki has needed a page on the [[World Painter]] for a while, so I've started one. The information in there is decent, but I'm relatively new to wiki editing, so the formatting probably isn't. If someone wouldn't mind cleaning it up a bit for me I'd really appreciate it. --[[User:Timmeh|Timmeh]] 01:15, 3 April 2009 (UTC)

== French language wiki ==

Can we have interlanguage links with the [http://www.dwarffortress.fr/wiki/ French wiki]? -[[User:Alan Trick|Alan Trick]] 17:48, 14 April 2009 (UTC)

== Add a CptnDuck page? ==

Captain Duck is a DF video tutorial maker, which an impressive collection of 40 videos on youtube (and a few extra videos of sieges and arenas and whatnot), and explains how to do most everything, from magma forges to Dwarven justice. He adds humor to it and he's the reason a lot of people understand the game...I think we should give him a page. – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Blackdoggie998|Blackdoggie998]]

:As it is insanely easy for anyone to sign up for editing priviledges on this site (I managed to, after all), I see no need to make one for him when he could make one for himself. However, if you wish to add user:CptnDuck, or invite him to make one himself, feel free. He can link to all of his tutorials from his user page. They even be searchable through that lovely little box to the(my) left. (Who knows where it is on your skin.) -- [[User:Teres_Draconis|jaz]] ... on this day, at this time.

:P.S. Does it seem odd to you to have it say "unsigned comment by [username]"? Or is that just me? -- [[User:Teres_Draconis|jaz]] ... on this day, just a little after the previous one.

== Articles on Olivine and other generic stones ==

There is a current discussion as to whether or not [[Olivine]] (and perhaps some few other stones) are duly covered on the current [[stone]] page, or are truly worth having their own article/page. This relates to a larger question of how this wiki is organized, and "What deserves a page" in a general sense. Any interested are encouraged to chime in, if only with a "me too" post pro or con. See [[Talk:Olivine]] for an idea of the issue. I'd like to have the debate move from the specific Olivine page to here since this is a more general issue that affects many potential pages. --[[User:Senso|Senso]] 21:29, 19 May 2009 (UTC)

:I'm not really sure which way to go on this one. A lot of otherwise useless stones would need their own articles if the guidelines were expanded... and yet, there's a good amount of useful information that's not on the main pages, that would further clutter them if it were added; And permitting more individual pages would solve both those problems. I guess this ends up being a vote both ways, with provisions on each. -[[User:N9103|Edward]] 23:54, 19 May 2009 (UTC)

:My vote is, if someone can make it amusing, then sure. If someone is of the bent to enjoy making such a page, then again, sure... otherwise, leave it at the bottom of the pile of "things that someday we might get around to if we feel like it" and don't stress. The relevant data is covered (or will be when someone notices it's not), and everything else is gravy. Beside, what would you rather do, play the game, or figure out how to make a whole page of jokes about how gneiss nice is.... (or did I get that backwards?)... ? --[[User:Teres_Draconis|jaz]] ... on this day, at this time.

::All relevant information is covered, yes. But not necessarily on a relevant page. Before the Olivine page was made you couldn't learn that olivine may contain native platinum from any page related to olivine or stone in general.
::Another example is kaolinite. You can look it up in the table of Other Stone to see it can be found in sedimentary rock. But in order to see that it may itself contain alunite and marcasite you have to go through the entire table (or use the browser search function). Now, in order to see if it may contain anything else, you have to notice the note at the top of the page (just above the table of contents) that points to Metal Ore and Gem, whith another two tables you have to search through. (Kaolinite may contain turquoise). --[[User:Nahno|Nahno]] 21:44, 20 May 2009 (UTC)

:It's not just about "which stones" - it's a larger question of how the wiki is organized and presented. Should each separate and distinct item get its own page, like the current one- or two-line articles on [[vial]]s, [[instrument]]s or [[chain]]s, (just as random parallel examples of some [[finished goods]] that have their very own, very short, very dull, and predictably repetitive articles.) Surely the [[Masons guild]] and [[miners guild]] don't deserve or need separate articles. Do we need a separate and largely redundant article for every trap weapon? What about the cookie-cutter articles on ''every'' individual animal? The GCS deserves its own, and many others, but one on each separate type of shark and hunting cat? There is no actual article there, only a template.

:Quivers and bolts are sub-sections of the [[crossbow]] article, and I think that's a ''great'' call. Olivine, talc and kaolinite are merely similar examples, distinct enough to warrant special treatment, but on the borderline of being so small to each only represent a stub. Ultimately, I don't think a functional formal definition would be easily achieved - rather guidelines and a fuzzy target, combining related info into groups with optimal size limitations (both lower end and upper end). Perhaps a template should not be forced on every lesser example, but they could be grouped into a table on their own article, "other stones of note" or "sharks" or "finished goods" or whatever.

:In many ways, our only current guidelines are "what has been done so far" - and that varies widely and wildly. Too often, pages are cobbled onto related ones, or split off just because its a new topic, if a brutally short one. Myself, I'd like to see most related articles of less than 4 lines or so get grouped into larger, more universally informative articles, and anything larger than maybe 5 full sub-sections be considered for splitting up. If an item stands out from the rest, it should stand out somewhere, in an article - but that doesn't mean it has to have its very own, or invite every similar item to do so as well.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 03:30, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

:: Please check out the current [[Chalk]] page and tell me what you think. ... which is to say, it doesn't /have/ to be a stub, does it? It can be rich and detailed and sadly unamusing. It would please me to continue to do all stones in this manner, or another manner of your choosing.... Thus negating fussing over "this one was done this way, that one was done that way" arguments. I'll get to them all, in the order they appear on the [[Stones]] page. ... assuming you guys are ok with that. --[[User:Teres Draconis]] 08:28, 21 May 2009 (UTC)
:: P.S. Who's the outpost manager of this place, anyways? I'd like to know to whom I should be pandering. --jaz

::: I think 1) you should take time to read, if not learn the wiki format guidelines, 2) you should sign with your REAL user name, and stop using a pseudonym, and 3) you should not break someone else's post with yours in between their paragraphs. As to the chalk page, I think it's over-enthusiastic and pays no attention to previous article style or formatting precedent - which may be a good thing or a bad thing, depending. --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 09:33, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

::::The templates are there because they are pretty, detailed, and condensed ways to display some key information. Rather than expanding existing information so that it takes up more space, it's more productive to add things that you think are lacking. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:15, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

::: I changed the other [[Stones]] table to allow for interesting minerals that are in other[[Stones]] to be posted.--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 22:17, 21 May 2009 (UTC)
:What would actually be helpful is a [[Geology]] primer, indicating how layers and inclusions are placed, where, and what the implications of "You have struck XXX" are. I know, now, that if it's olivine, I have a chance of finding veins of native platinum. One good page explaining what all of the geological processes mean would be a lot more useful then all of the various descriptions of exploratory mining. [[User:Decius|Decius]] 22:35, 21 May 2009 (UTC)
::That sounds like a great idea.--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 22:46, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

::"More useful" to some, but I agree it would be a great addition. Also, the more I think about it, the more I like what MrDG did with the table in Other Stone - tables could condense any and all small, individual articles into single pages w/ (sortable?) tables where all these various similar objects could be compared/contrasted at a glance. Templates are perfect when there is a lot of various info, but if the different topics (semi-generic stones, animals, finished goods) all differ only in one or two details, and there is just not that many variables to begin with, a Table would be (imo) preferable. ''(And imo that table now covers such stones as Olivine well, to get back to the original example that sparked this discussion.)''
::As an additional example of how current stub-articles could be combined into a simple table, I've made this page - [[Example - some fish]] - which could be a model for such. (A page/table with all the "Sea-creatures" would be more likely approp, but this was faster for now.) It would replace every stub-article on related "generic" items, but any truly noteworthy items would still have their own full articles for expanded information and commentary (here, "carp"). It still has 100% of the prev information, but also allows immediate comparison and contrast, and, if sortable, allows a User to more easily compare relations between similar aspects (like "biome", in this example.)--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 00:13, 22 May 2009 (UTC)

== mayday universal/slow start ==
Information on those to me new options is missing totally? Would be great if someone could write up a bit on it, maybe in world generation? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 00:55, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

:I think you're referring to the premade embark setup that comes with the Mayday graphic set. I'm not using the latest version, but in my case, Mayday Universal is just a set of dwarf skills and item selections you can use. It'll let you view and modify them before you embark. As for "slow", I haven't seen that; it might be new to the latest release, but it sounds similar.

:Since they're just default embark packs that come with a graphic set, it's not something to add to the worldgen page...maybe the set's, if necessary. --[[User:Kupochama|Kupochama]] 10:21, 22 May 2009 (UTC)

User talk:Kupochama

2009-05-22T10:03:14Z

Kupochama: Created page with 'Joined to make comments and add what little I didn't learn through this site. Posting here just to give the page some content. ~~~~'

Joined to make comments and add what little I didn't learn through this site. Posting here just to give the page some content. [[User:Kupochama|Kupochama]] 10:03, 22 May 2009 (UTC)

User:Kupochama

2009-05-22T10:01:18Z

Kupochama: Created page with 'Hi. Email is a problem, so contact me through my talk page, I guess.'

Hi.

Email is a problem, so contact me through my talk page, I guess.