Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

User:Umiman

2011-03-31T23:03:13Z

Umiman:

Cheers and have a nice day!

--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 05:51, 26 May 2008 (EDT)

40d:Door

2008-07-30T19:03:21Z

Umiman: /* Door strength */

'''Doors''' are [[furniture]] which can be built from [[rock]] (at a [[mason's workshop]]), [[wood]] (at a [[carpenter's workshop]]), or [[metal]] (at a [[metalsmith's forge]]). You can also make [[glass]] doors (called '''portals''') at a [[glass furnace]]. The symbol for a stone door is that of a solid tile, the color of its material, with a cross of a different color across it (e.g. {{Raw Tile|┼|Gray|Silver}}) Doors of different materials use different tiles, because Toady hates tileset makers. Glass doors (or portals) use the symbol {{Raw Tile|O|#0f0|#080}}. Metal doors use the symbol {{Raw Tile|╪|#ff0|#880}}. Wood doors use the symbol {{Raw Tile|║|#ccc|#880}}.

Doors made of all [[materials]] function identically, although doors made of more valuable material will increase the "value" of a [[room]] it is used in. High-[[quality]] doors give a happy [[thought]] to any [[dwarf]] seeing them, especially when a door is part of a room that the dwarf personally owns.{{verify}} Items made of a material a dwarf has a [[preference]] for will give an even happier thought.

Doors, when closed, will prevent the passage of fluid ([[water]] and [[magma]]). However, if a dwarf opens the door, the fluid will come spilling through.

== Door settings ==

There are three options one can specify on a door from the {{K|q}} menu:
* {{K|l}} Forbid/Permit Passage
** A door set to Forbidden is impassable to everyone in the game. A door cannot be set Forbidden if the door is open. Invading thieves may lock-pick and bypass a Forbidden door.
* {{K|o}} Keep Tightly Closed/Make Pet-Passable
** A door that is pet-passable allows through traffic of pets. A pet can still pass through a door that is tightly closed if it does so while it is being held open by an object or dwarf. This also affect the door's permeability to wild animals - a tightly closed door is a good way to keep wild animals from blundering into your fort.
* {{K|s}} Set as Internal/External
** A door set to external functions as a [[wall]] when defining boundaries of a room such as a [[bedroom]]. A door set to internal allows the room boundaries to pour over.

== "Building" doors ==

After constructing a door at any of the above workshops, they must be "{{K|b}}uilt" (placed) like all other furniture. Doors can now be placed on any open square adjacent to a wall. Locked doors and [[statue]]s do not count as walls for door-building purposes anymore. For the same result of the statue-door-move statue trick in previous versions to build an infinite line of doors, instead use a constructed wall segment. Doors will not "fall down" when the constructed wall is removed. They will, however, fall down if a non-constructed wall they are attached to is mined out and they have no other support.

== Door construction ==

A door built will not create a floor above it the way a wall will. If construction is to be done above a door, walls, fortifications and floors can be built on top of doors. Doors cannot be built on top of other doors – there must be a floor. Stairs and ramps, of course, cannot be built on top of doors either.

== Door strength ==

Trolls and most megabeasts can destroy doors.

[[Category:Furniture]]

40d Talk:Door

2008-07-30T18:58:40Z

Umiman: /* Door Strength */

== General Discussion ==

The only change I've noticed with doors so far is the placement: Locked doors no longer count as walls for door-placing purposes, and you can place a door in any unblocked space adjacent to a wall. --[[User:BehroozWolf]]

Doors seem to leak water very slowly for me - anyone else notice this? --[[User:Valdemar]]

: I've never observed doors leaking unless someone walks through them.

: Please sign your comments, guys! Four tildes (<nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>) will insert your username and the current date. --[[User:JT|JT]] 21:49, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

I've been told that levers can be attached to doors, and that they act much like floodgates with a lever attached. Might want to add something to the article about that - I haven't because I haven't confirmed this yet. [[User:Jp|Jp]] 01:35, 5 November 2007 (EST)

The article says that locked doors prevent dwarves from entering, but does that mean that hostiles can enter them? [[User:Patarak|Patarak]] 21:03, 23 January 2008 (EST)
:The doors aren't actually locked. They are just forbidden. I.e. it's not allowed for dwarves to use them. But they are still just a doors, and enemies can open them. Well... At least this is how I understand this--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:24, 23 January 2008 (EST)
:Creatures that can open doors cannot open forbidden doors. Trolls can open forbidden doors (by breaking them) [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 23:27, 23 January 2008 (EST)
<br>
::"Creatures that can open doors cannot open forbidden doors" ...unless they are lockpickers. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 00:47, 24 January 2008 (EST)
LOCKPICKER Lets a creature open doors that are set to forbidden in Fortress Mode.

I may be jumping at straws, but it seems like wild animals won't go through a door that is kept tightly closed (but not forbidden). Can anyone corroborate or am I nuts? --[[User:Erom|Erom]] 13:57, 10 February 2008 (EST)
: I can confirm this now! Tightly closed but not forbidded will allow your dwarves to pass through, but will keep wild animals from wandering into your fort.
--[[User:Erom|Erom]] 13:58, 23 February 2008 (EST)

So do doors have to be locked shut to both dwarves and other animals to keep enemies out in, say, a siege? --[[User:Gh3yz0r|Gh3yz0r]] 11:13, 17 February 2008 (EST)

:I doubt it, I'm almost certain "locked" doubles as both; "tightly closed" just forbids animals. [[User:Kefkakrazy|Kefkakrazy]] 01:51, 1 May 2008 (EDT)

:I'd actually recommend against using the animals option, as it doesn't work properly yet (33g) because the animals are pathfinding as if they're dwarves. Lots of pathing failures will wreck your FPS, and the animals will still get through the door anyways, like when a dwarf opens it. [[User_talk:Squirrelloid#Animals_try_to_path_through_tightly_closed_doors|Here]]'s a bit of testing/observation that was done and written down by Squirrelloid. I'll be posting this to a relevant discussion over in [[Talk:Maximizing_framerate]] to try and shed some more light on something that affects me drastically, and probably affects most everyone else too, even if they don't realize that it's the cause. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 06:23, 1 May 2008 (EDT)
::Also note this applies to nuissance (ie, hostile) animals - i've now had a crazed camel sit behind a tightly closed door waiting for a dwarf to open it and repeatedly '?' its inability to path. So its not just a 'pets' problem. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 11:45, 1 May 2008 (EDT)

== Doors for wagons? ==

When I move my trade depot inside, how should I allow wagons in? Do I need 3 doors next to each other? [[User:Shoez|Shoez]] 15:57, 5 April 2008 (EDT)

: I recommend building a (draw-)bridge 3 tiles wide over a channel, then the depot, then a second bridge further inside, to guarantee arrival of wagons (they will not enter the map if outer drawbridge is up) and still maintain fortress security. There are more elaborate options with traps, water and the like, but this one will work. I doubt wagons can cross doors, but i never tried. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 21:15, 5 April 2008 (EDT)

:Being that doors require a wall to be next to, you cannot create a 3-wide stretch of doors, (and yes, removing a wall will remove doors that require that wall.) In addition, doors block wagon travel ({{k|D}}), much like stairs. So on all accounts, doors are not an option. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 21:08, 6 April 2008 (EDT)

:Hint - blast doors. Ie, 3 floodgates connected to the same lever. You can keep them raised most of the time, and lower them as needed. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 11:45, 1 May 2008 (EDT)

== Dwarfs having happier thoughts about their own doors. ==

Does someone know if this is true or not?--[[User:Richards|Richards]] 02:35, 21 April 2008 (EDT)

:It says something akin to "(Dwarf) has admired own fine door lately." Most "Own (item)" messages are happier than just "a(n) (item)". I'd say it's reasonable to assume, though I haven't done any research here. Not sure how one would.--[[User:Dadamh|Dadamh]] 08:34, 30 May 2008 (EDT)

==Door Strength==
Has anyone tested an adamantium door against something like a colossus? One would imagine that it would stand up to ANYTHING, even a raging colossus, but a test could be handy. [[User:Kefkakrazy|Kefkakrazy]] 01:51, 1 May 2008 (EDT)

Um, under 38c, I just had my door destroyed by a troll. This should probably be noted in the article. If nothing's posted in the next couple days, I'll change it myself, I guess. --Jhoosier

:It already is
::Stone, wood, and glass doors can be destroyed by the trolls which usually accompany goblin sieges
:[[User:Anydwarf|Anydwarf]] 13:52, 17 May 2008 (EDT)

Sorry, I should have mentioned that it was an iron door. That's what I was getting at. Here's a screenshot of it: [http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Image:Iron_door.JPG] (On a side note, how the heck do I embed this? Couldn't get it to do so. Ah well, it's linked to now. [[User:Jhoosier|Jhoosier]] 21:04, 17 May 2008 (EDT)

:Huh. OK. The only buildingdestroyers I've gotten were megabeasts (probably since I tend to play on tiny worlds with low goblin populations) so it'll probably be a while before I can test this for myself. This means someone else will have to get a troll and run him through some tests with the Warp utility. (or similar) I have a feeling that any buildingdestroyer can at least deconstruct any door, if not turn it into splinters.
:In the meantime, should we just drop the entire section from the page? Or just turn it into a single sentence like "trolls and some other creatures can destroy doors" [[User:Anydwarf|Anydwarf]] 00:46, 18 May 2008 (EDT)

I've got a steel door up now, I'll try releasing a captured troll and see if it destroys the steel door. I don't know what everyone's experiences are with doors and door strength, so I'll leave dropping it up to smarter people.

Whoever wrote that article about door strength was talking out of his arse. I've had steel doors torn down left, right and center by trolls, dragons, and all sorts of building destroyers. It's easy to simulate too. Just give [BUILDINGDESTROYER:2] to humans and elves and see what they do to your doors when they even come to trade.
--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]]

== Bursting under water Pressure? ==

In my fort I have a door working as a flood gate that is under a fair amount of pressure. I've noticed it opening seemingly at random and was wondering whether there's a connection. It is attached to a lever and I seem to need to double pull the lever to get it to close. Anyone else notice this? <small>– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Darthfrodo|Darthfrodo]]</small>
:Please sign your edits using <tt><nowiki>--~~~~</nowiki></tt>. At any rate, can you do a quick diagram of your setup using the templates for diagrams? --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMario]] 23:07, 8 May 2008 (EDT)

== lever-linked doors and lockpickers ==

If a door is linked to a lever, can a lock picking enemy open it? --[[User:Strangething|Strangething]] 23:40, 18 July 2008 (EDT)

== Doors unable to be constructed from a diagonal. ==

I had a setup like this
XXX
XDX
f F f
f f f
F f f

X= wall
D=door waiting to be built
f=farmer's workshop waiting to be built
F=farmer's workshop waiting to be built

the door kept getting canceled because they couldn't reach it apparently
--[[User:winn|winn]] 12:28, 24 July 2008 (EDT)

40d:Weapon rack

2008-07-19T14:08:43Z

Umiman:

A '''weapon rack''' is a device which is used to hold [[weapons]]. Dwarves will store weapons that they have acquired on weapon racks inside their rooms but will not use them. It can be made of [[stone]], [[glass]], [[wood]] or [[metal]].

As with the [[armor stand]], it may be used to lay down an official [[barracks]]. It is used to decorate and keep the [[noble]]s happy.

[[Category:Furniture]]

40d Talk:Weapon rack

2008-07-19T14:07:34Z

Umiman:

==Function==
So the weapon and armor racks WILL be used to store weapons/armor if we do NOT have the appropriate stockpile? I thought they were broken in this new version. I'll have to try this, I like the idea of my racks being used, instead of just being decorative. --[[User:DDouble|DDouble]] 14:30, 16 December 2007 (EST)
:Unless this changed very recently, it is not true. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 14:45, 16 December 2007 (EST)
::Do you mean it is true they can be used or it is true they are borken? [[User:Jikor|Jikor]]

:From what I have seen, their functions are:
:#"declare" a [[barracks]]
:#decorative (satisfy nobles)
:They don't get used to store weapons but they look good. Think of the shiny swords you buy from the gift shop, not the gun rack you buy from the National Rifle Association Official Shop (TM).[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 18:49, 31 January 2008 (EST)

http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?board=7.0

Weapon racks and armor stands are confirmed to be used to store weapons and armor respectively again. But only in the same way a dwarf stores his coins and amulets in a chest.
--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 10:07, 19 July 2008 (EDT)

40d:Armor stand

2008-07-19T14:05:28Z

Umiman: armor stands can hang armor now

An '''armor stand''' is used to hang [[armor]] on. Dwarves will currently hang pieces of armor that they acquire on armor stands in their rooms but won't use them. It can be made of [[stone]], [[glass]], [[wood]], or [[metal]].

As with the [[weapon rack]], they may be used for laying down an official [[barracks]]. Outside of that, if you already have an [[armor]] stockpile, they will be largely for decoration and to appease [[noble]]s.

[[Category:Furniture]]

40d Talk:Undead

2008-05-29T11:39:59Z

Umiman:

One question: I had two dwarves that were not always occupied hunt small zombies and skeletons (hoary marmots, mountain goat and such). Apart from getting really good at wrestling, they both seemed to gain "Is used to tragedy" as a character trait. Can anyone confirm that? -- [[User:qwertyu|qwertyu]] 12:34, 9 March 2008 (CET)

:That always happens regardless of what they are killing.

:Should we include the fact that attempting to pit undead animals of any kind will result in them attacking the moment they are released, regardless of how close they are to the pit. (They can be right next to it but still attack the pit-ter once they are out of the cages)
:--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 07:39, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

40d Talk:Water wheel

2008-05-27T09:35:34Z

Umiman: /* Powering a Water Wheel */

I've not used waterwheels yet, so I'm unsure if this is the case, but couldn't you, theoretically, set up a perpetual motion machine using a waterwheel and a screw pump?

The article contradicts itself, it says on the first line "in" a flow, but the next line refers to a flow underneath, which is correct? [[User:Matryx|Matryx]] 17:34, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

A perpetual motion device is easy enough to setup once you have an understanding of screwpumps and power. I currently have a water wheel placed between two underground resevoirs that runs a mill and pumps water from the lower tank to the higher one. Its very energy efficient aswell. Three axles, a gear, the mill and the pump only draw 40 power leaving me 60 for other devices.

I'll try get up screenshots of it or maybe a tidier one later --[[User:Lucid|Lucid]] 19:58, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

Someone removed my edit, but the water wheel actually only requires one square of water underneath it, not three. - Sludge Man

We could really use better pictures. The tileset in these screenshots is terrible, (lets use the default one) and they are very unclear. I do not understand how to build a working waterwheel after looking at this page.

I removed the unclear example of a perpetual motion machine with a forum link to much clearer designs. We still need clear pictures and elaboration of the method of construction. I'll get around to it once I understand it myself, if no one beats me to it. --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 15:48, 5 November 2007 (EST)

: Sorry about the tilesets but I didn't think anyone would mind my custom one considering the only noticibly difference is the pump which looks like 2 barrels.
Although my screenshots were specifically for a perpetual motion machine which is why they lacked indepth wheel and pump construction.
I was hoping to create a video or some sort of tutorial to add in the construction section which dealt with creating waterwheels for someone who has absolutely no idea of any of the mechanics.

Also how reliable are the new designs?
I checked out that link and I previously toyed with designs similar to those and found them to be excellent power generators but not true perpetual motion machines, they all lost power intermittedly for varying lengths of time. --[[User:Lucid|Lucid]] 18:30, 5 November 2007 (EST)

== Perpendicular to water flow ==

Strange as it may sound, water wheels do 'not' need to be parallel to the water flow direction to work. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 16:31, 23 November 2007 (EST)
:This is as in real life - you can build a less efficient water wheel by putting the "buckets" at an angle - and indeed might put the "buckets" on a 360 degree pivot for some purposes.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 07:21, 8 January 2008 (EST)
===Water Flow Needed?===
::Actually there is no need for water flow at all. A water wheel seems to generate power even if it is built to a water body with no current (no "entry" or "exit" points). So basically the water wheel just needs to touch water and that's it. This is what I've noticed when confining a canal with floodgates at both ends. --[[User:Flaa|Flaa]] 07:47, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
:::This seems to have changed in a recent version. In previous versions you just had to connect a canal to a brook and the whole canal would count as 'flowing' even when nothing was moving. In my latest game this hasn't worked. So it's either changed, or the fact that I tried a 4-tile wide canal has stopped it working. --[[User:Juckto|Juckto]] 18:22, 10 May 2008 (EDT)

== Powering a Water Wheel ==

It seems that you can connect a Water Wheel to a Windmill, or other power source and cause it to spin - is there a purpose to doing this? can you move water along channels this way? What are the benefits? --[[User:SeiferTim|SeiferTim]] 12:47, 12 March 2008 (EDT)

::I think that it's because water wheels use power to run. Hence, they produce 100 power by themselves, but end up using 10 to spin, making the net power output only 90. Therefore, most likely the windmills provide that 10 power to the waterwheel. I don't think it does anything, but it does look cool.
--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 05:34, 27 May 2008 (EDT)

==Verify Carpenter==
Does the water wheel require carpentry to build?--[[User:Richards|Richards]] 04:11, 21 April 2008 (EDT)
:Yep--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 04:15, 21 April 2008 (EDT)
::Thanks Dorten.--[[User:Richards|Richards]] 04:26, 21 April 2008 (EDT)

40d Talk:Water wheel

2008-05-27T09:34:39Z

Umiman: /* Powering a Water Wheel */

I've not used waterwheels yet, so I'm unsure if this is the case, but couldn't you, theoretically, set up a perpetual motion machine using a waterwheel and a screw pump?

The article contradicts itself, it says on the first line "in" a flow, but the next line refers to a flow underneath, which is correct? [[User:Matryx|Matryx]] 17:34, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

A perpetual motion device is easy enough to setup once you have an understanding of screwpumps and power. I currently have a water wheel placed between two underground resevoirs that runs a mill and pumps water from the lower tank to the higher one. Its very energy efficient aswell. Three axles, a gear, the mill and the pump only draw 40 power leaving me 60 for other devices.

I'll try get up screenshots of it or maybe a tidier one later --[[User:Lucid|Lucid]] 19:58, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

Someone removed my edit, but the water wheel actually only requires one square of water underneath it, not three. - Sludge Man

We could really use better pictures. The tileset in these screenshots is terrible, (lets use the default one) and they are very unclear. I do not understand how to build a working waterwheel after looking at this page.

I removed the unclear example of a perpetual motion machine with a forum link to much clearer designs. We still need clear pictures and elaboration of the method of construction. I'll get around to it once I understand it myself, if no one beats me to it. --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 15:48, 5 November 2007 (EST)

: Sorry about the tilesets but I didn't think anyone would mind my custom one considering the only noticibly difference is the pump which looks like 2 barrels.
Although my screenshots were specifically for a perpetual motion machine which is why they lacked indepth wheel and pump construction.
I was hoping to create a video or some sort of tutorial to add in the construction section which dealt with creating waterwheels for someone who has absolutely no idea of any of the mechanics.

Also how reliable are the new designs?
I checked out that link and I previously toyed with designs similar to those and found them to be excellent power generators but not true perpetual motion machines, they all lost power intermittedly for varying lengths of time. --[[User:Lucid|Lucid]] 18:30, 5 November 2007 (EST)

== Perpendicular to water flow ==

Strange as it may sound, water wheels do 'not' need to be parallel to the water flow direction to work. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 16:31, 23 November 2007 (EST)
:This is as in real life - you can build a less efficient water wheel by putting the "buckets" at an angle - and indeed might put the "buckets" on a 360 degree pivot for some purposes.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 07:21, 8 January 2008 (EST)
===Water Flow Needed?===
::Actually there is no need for water flow at all. A water wheel seems to generate power even if it is built to a water body with no current (no "entry" or "exit" points). So basically the water wheel just needs to touch water and that's it. This is what I've noticed when confining a canal with floodgates at both ends. --[[User:Flaa|Flaa]] 07:47, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
:::This seems to have changed in a recent version. In previous versions you just had to connect a canal to a brook and the whole canal would count as 'flowing' even when nothing was moving. In my latest game this hasn't worked. So it's either changed, or the fact that I tried a 4-tile wide canal has stopped it working. --[[User:Juckto|Juckto]] 18:22, 10 May 2008 (EDT)

== Powering a Water Wheel ==

It seems that you can connect a Water Wheel to a Windmill, or other power source and cause it to spin - is there a purpose to doing this? can you move water along channels this way? What are the benefits? --[[User:SeiferTim|SeiferTim]] 12:47, 12 March 2008 (EDT)

I think that it's because water wheels use power to run. Hence, they produce 100 power by themselves, but end up using 10 to spin, making the net power output only 90. Therefore, most likely the windmills provide that 10 power to the waterwheel. I don't think it does anything, but it does look cool.
--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 05:34, 27 May 2008 (EDT)

==Verify Carpenter==
Does the water wheel require carpentry to build?--[[User:Richards|Richards]] 04:11, 21 April 2008 (EDT)
:Yep--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 04:15, 21 April 2008 (EDT)
::Thanks Dorten.--[[User:Richards|Richards]] 04:26, 21 April 2008 (EDT)

Category talk:Animals

2008-05-26T10:01:16Z

Umiman:

Could we maybe do a danger rating for animals?

So why are only some of the animals listed on this page not listed in the category template on every specific animal page? I can't figure out how to fix it, plus I suck at wiki editing.

----

I'm quite willing to add descriptions, text, hints, behaviour, difficulty, notoriety, pictures and the like to every single animal in the game (I already did hours upon hours of research concerning this)... if someone could clean up after me or teach me how to at least make the text look good. Drop me a line if you are.

--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 06:01, 26 May 2008 (EDT)

User:Umiman

2008-05-26T09:51:26Z

Umiman:

Hi, I'm Umiman and I've been playing DF since days of yore (a fracking long time). I work on adding more descriptive and flavour texts in the game and I hope you'll try them out (There's more than 100 threats, 200 engravings, and a bazillion prefstrings already).

Check out my forum thread [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000622&p= here!]

I love getting feedback and suggestions, so pop me a line.

Cheers and have a nice day!

--[[User:Umiman|Umiman]] 05:51, 26 May 2008 (EDT)

40d:List of mods

2008-05-26T09:48:46Z

Umiman: Added my mods. Thanks for your patience.

[[Category:Modding]]

= List of Mods =

== Goblin Mod ==

Adds Goblins as a playable civilization, along with some goblin specific animals. (Including dwarven slaves).

But beware, Dwarves WILL siege you and elves will steal your babies 0:

[http://rapidshare.com/files/88232854/Goblinsmod4.zip.html Download!]

[http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000303 Forum Post]

== Zoo Mod ==

The Zoo Mod adds over 80 diverse domestic and wild animals from the real world, to add a little more realism to your fortress.

Created by Chariot, you can find more details on his [[User:Chariot|user page]]

== [[User:Jackard#Language_Mod|Language Mod]] ==
Enhances the game's vocabulary.

== Teldinmod 2: Judgment Day ==

Adds plants, food, animals, playable races, instruments, and many more things.

Examples include chickens, orcs in fortress mode, spiders in adventure mode, tubas, edible mushrooms and more!

[http://teldin.wikispaces.com/space/showimage/teldin%27s+mod.zip Download!]

[http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000092 Forum Post] with more info.

== Dwarvus Romanus: Rome Fortress ==

A full-scale DF conversion, changing it to a Roman-style fortress game. Many game aspects (civs, weapons, plants, etc) are changed, see the readme for details.

[http://teldin.wikispaces.com/space/showimage/rome+fortress.zip Download!]

== Morlark's Plant Mod ==

This mod adds ten new plants, six outdoor ones and four cave ones.

Five of these can be planted, and the remaining five can only be gathered from the wild.

[http://morlark.uwcs.co.uk/misc/df/matgloss_plant_morlark.txt Download!]

== Botany Mod '''2'''==

Adds 73 new plants, some indoor and lots outdoor

[[User:Chariot#Botany_Mod_2|Botany Mod 2]]

== Dwarmins Plant Mod ==

Adds eight imaginative new plant breeds that can be made into cloth and alcohol, to clothe all those naked dwarves you have.

Well you can't clothe them with alcohol.

Only clothes.

No matter how hard they dream...

[http://rapidshare.com/files/71696334/matgloss_plant_dwarmod.txt.html Download!]

== Dire Animals Mod ==

Bored with the current deadly animals?

This mod adds more dangerous versions of many existing creatures.

''They can smell your fear.''

[http://files.filefront.com/creature+direrar/;91686 Download!]

== Prehistoria ==

Adds a bunch of dinosaurs and other prehistoric creatures. Does not overwrite any DF files.

[http://files.filefront.com/prehistoria+005azip/;9304321;/fileinfo.html Version 0.05a]

[http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000004 Forum post with more info]

== Mega Toy Mod ==
For a little spice adds almost 300 toys to DF. All reasonably within period so it wont throw off your game. Enjoy!-Berent

http://www.savefile.com/files/1246546 V 0.3

Contribute to the project(forum link)
http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000052&p=1

== Bronze Mod ==
Fixes the assumptions DF makes about the relative strengths of bronze and iron. Adds a couple of new alloys.

http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000064

== Martial Arts Mod ==
Intended as a mod to make different natural (unarmed) attacks for most creatures, this project evolved into more of a creature expansion. Adds several new megabeasts and controllable civs, some new weapons, and the martial arts themselves, too.

http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000260 v1.2 conforms to .38a standarts.

== Minerals Mod ==
Rebalances the placement of many minerals and gems in the game. Adds several new metals/alloys, and two more sources of coal. Also includes the Manual Stone Selection hack that turns all stone in the game into economic stone.

http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000066

== Angler Mod ==

adds 13 new fish

[[User:Chariot#Angler_Mod|Angler Mod]]

== Damascus Mod ==

Adds a new ore and a new, more valuable steel alloy: Damascus steel.

[[User:MagiMaster#Damascus_Steel_Mod|Damascus Steel Mod]]

== It's The Small Things Mod ==

Adds a ton of flavour text to the game including:

- Over 100 new threats in adventurer mode. (The original only had one.)
[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=184 Download!]

- Over 200 new engravings in fortress and adventurer. (They appear as symbols too.)
[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=183 Download!]

- 5 new, non-repeating prefstrings (descriptive text) for each and every creature in the game.
[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=182 Download!]

Get the whole set here: [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=185 Download!]

Forum thread here: [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=13&t=000622&p= Link!]

User talk:Umiman

2008-05-23T21:57:11Z

Umiman: New page: Yo. Sup.

Yo. Sup.

User:Umiman

2008-05-23T21:56:42Z

Umiman: New page: Dum dee dum...

Dum dee dum...

40d:Food guide

2008-03-08T07:43:10Z

Umiman: /* Tips */

As requested from http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=003406. Someone please edit?

These are all possible ways you can get food:

== FARMING ==
In financial terms, farming will be your zero-coupon bonds, your fixed deposit account, your high yield, high duration account. This will normally be your main source of dwarven nourishment, and unless your map has a craptonne of animals or you have 200 or so fisherdwarves, this is how you will feed your dwarven economy.

It is important to remember that when you invest in farming, you are sacrificing a minor amount of resources (seeds, labour, and land) for large future gain. So if your fortress is in crisis where every single breadcrumb can save a life... you might not really want to go into farming at that moment.

But normally, you can afford to sacrifice a minor amount of seeds (15 should be enough to get started) and minor amount of labour (1 dedicated planter) to reap large benefits.

FARMING TECHNIQUES
* If you are relatively in a crisis and need food urgently, plant low cost, high yield crops that don't need additional talent to bring to bear. So avoid those pig tails and quarry leaves and get that plump helmet farm operational.
* It doesn't take a large field to feed an army. In DF, a 6x6 field and two planters should be enough for... forever.
* It's not really necessary to use an aqueduct to water an underground field. A bucket brigade and a designated pond (which you convert to a field later) can create tillable land in no time.

== TRADING ==
This method will likely give you the largest yield with relatively high cost. It's really possible to actually have a fortress not produce any of its own food and import it all from outside. Basically, all you need is to bring enough food in the beginning, and then produce enough trade goods to buy all food from caravans. If you really need more... then just wait for the liaisons and get them to prioritize food and drink only.

TIPS
- There's lots of stuff that can get sold well. I personally favour the "kill all merchants and take their stuff" approach, but people like trading prepared food (contradictory?), crafts, weapons, caged animals, and various other stuff that you really can't be bothered to use in your own fortress.
- Watch your food supplies carefully though, it's possible you don't have enough. Not likely, but possible with really, really large forts.

== FISHING ==
This is just a dedicated stream of low yield income. It's practically guaranteed, but the return to cost is quite low. It's nice to supplement the dwarven diet with it, and turtle and lobster shells are important for moods.

The thing about fishing though is that the catch is not immediately edible. You need to process it at the fishery first, which marginally increases the time taken to get from rod to plate.

=== Tips ===
* Actually, unless you love to roleplay, the only reason you ever want to fish is to get shells. But sometimes, you realise that you're not getting any shells, just lots of shads and trout and cave fish. Here's a tip: dig out a channel some distance away from a main water source and channel a water source into that. Then designate that for fishing. You should only get turtles from that.
* I find that a good combo is that for every three dedicated fisherdwarves, one dedicated fish cleaner is needed for the highest efficiency and every fish cleaner should get his/her own fishery.
* "there is no fish left in blablabla" can be safely ignored. Your dwarves will either use another fishing spot until the fish respawn or idle about until said fish respawn, which is when the season changes.
* If you don't have a river on your map but only murky pools, they may dry up in summer and never refill, leaving your map with no water at all. So there is a (low and avoidable) risk of fishing being a dead end.
* You still need a farm or trade for booze.

== HUNTING ==
This is almost like fishing, except the returns are usually higher but the risk is higher as well. With hunting, you will also get bones, tallow, and leather. Fishing just gets you bones and shells.

Basically, it's like this; if you are on any map where you yourself are afraid of the animals roaming about, hunting is out of the question. If you're on any evil or savage map, hunting is a good way to get rid of dwarves.

So the only time you would use hunters is when the game are rabbits, bunnies, groundhogs, gnomes, or the like.

TIPS
* Try to train your hunters with marksdwarvenship first. It helps A LOT. Wrestling is good too. But if you're going to do all that, ask yourself if it would be more viable to just make him a marksdwarf and station him outside?
* Hunters sleep outside. They can sometimes be slaughtered by wandering wolf packs while snoozing away.
* Hunters that have no bolts will chase their prey around with their bare hands and can be quite the funny sight.
* Make sure you have a leatherworker, tanner, and butcher before you get a hunting job. If not, it's a total waste and you're better off fishing.
* You can also make an axe-hunter by putting woodcutting and hunting on the same dwarf - won't be catching the fast creatures, but has a better chance against a predator, and doesn't need ammo. -Thanks Othob Rithol
* Hunting can make your unit list stretch very, very long.
* You still need a farm or trade for booze.
* Lastly, hunters are usually the first to die in a siege.

== LIVESTOCK ==
I personally think this is completely and totally unviable and ridiculously stupid to attempt. It's just a last resort or clearance kind of thing. Animals don't reproduce fast enough to feed anyone and don't give any useful byproducts beyond annoyance, lag, and kobold detection.

If you really want to try this, I recommend you learn to micromanage caging so that baby animals are kept in cages, there exists no more than one male of each species, and female animals are slaughtered after they reproduce once or twice.

*'''Second opinion''': If you bring pairs of animals right from the start, happen to be on a map where you can catch (lots) more with cage traps and buy all animals traders bring, you will get a substantial return after, say, 3 years at the latest. But the cost in starting points, time, work and micromanagement make this ''really'' uneconomic and more an experiment. And for the first years you will need a different source anyway, so why not stick with that? You could however limit the number of dwarves until everything's set up.<br> The least thing to say is, animals are a meat reserve that will not rot.

=== Details ===

* Some animals are reproducing faster and more consistently than others. You will have to try out. But really, you will take what you can get.
* Mules ''are'' sterile.
* You still need a farm or trade for booze.

== COOKING ==
An important way to hugely increase your food output without really doing anything. All you need is one dedicated cook and a kitchen as well as cookable food. Basically, it turns a few items of food into a lot more items of food that give a happiness bonus depending on cook skill. It also turns unedible food into edible food (tallow, fat, lots more) If you're in a crisis, you can cook seeds too (after some time you will be happy to get rid of some).

Remember that cooking, other than brewing or eating raw plants, destroys the seeds, so you might want to be careful about that.

=== Tips ===
* To train chefs, have them only make easy meals in the beginning because it's the fastest to prepare.{{verify}}
* Cooking alcohol wastes it in that it does not count as drink in cooked food. So usually you want to turn off alcohol cooking in the z-kitchen menu.
* Make sure there's enough storage space because if masterpiece meals rot... you're in trouble. (not true inside if anywhere - no prep. meals will rot)
* Prepared food sells for obscenely high prices.

== GATHERING ==
This is the best you can do when you have a food shortage. It has the best returns to time value of all. Just, you won't get that much and you better invest in another method before you run out of harvestable bushes. Not much to say about it other than you can also farm most plants you gather. The higher your gatherer skill, the more and faster you get. Unskilled gatherers will find frustratingly little.

== VERMIN TRAPPING ==
Free food in dire circumstances. You get an unhappiness bonus, and it's usually a sign your fortress is doomed. You can also manually catch vermin which your dwarves can snack on by using animal traps with bait. I don't know why you would want to do that since the bait is usually worth more than the catch... but, it's up to you.

TIPS
-<blockquote>
Heck, you don't even need bait as far as I can tell. Just make a bunch of animal traps, make sure someone has trapping enabled, then set up a Kennel with a repeating "Capture Live Land Animal" task. The trapper should pick up a trap and run around chasing vermin, sticking them in the trap. Just make sure there's an Animal stockpile to put them on.

Even if there's plenty of normal food available, dwarves will occasionally come by and eat the vermin raw, live, and wriggling!
</blockquote>-Thanks Nesoo

== SPAWNS ==
Not really worth mentioning but occasionally spawns will pop up in your fortress. So this is an additional way of getting food (and seeds).

40d:Food guide

2008-03-08T04:44:46Z

Umiman: New page: As requested from http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=003406. Someone please edit? These are all possible ways you can get food: 1. farming 2. trading...

As requested from http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=003406. Someone please edit?

These are all possible ways you can get food:

1. farming

2. trading

3. fishing

4. hunting

5. livestock

6. cooking

7. gathering

8. vermin trapping

'''1. FARMING'''
In financial terms, farming will be your zero-coupon bonds, your fixed deposit account, your high yield, high duration account. This will normally be your main source of dwarven nourishment, and unless your map has a craptonne of animals or you have 200 or so fisherdwarves, this will how you will feed your dwarven economy.

It is important to remember that when you invest in farming, you are sacrificing a minor amount of resources (seeds, labour, and land) for large future gain. So if your fortress is in crisis where every single breadcrumb can save a life... you might not really want to go into farming at that moment.

But normally, you can afford to sacrifice a minor amount of seeds (15 should be enough to get started) and minor amount of labour (1 dedicated planter) to reap large benefits.

FARMING TECHNIQUES
- If you are relatively in a crisis and need food urgently, plant low cost, high yield crops that don't need additional talent to bring to bear. So avoid those pig tails and quarry leaves and get that plump helmet farm operational.
- It doesn't take a large field to feed an army. In DF, a 6x6 field and two planters should be enough for... forever.
- It's not really necessary to use an aqueduct to water an underground field. A bucket brigade and a designated pond (to which you convert to a field later) can create tillable land in no time.
'''
2. TRADING'''
This method will likely give you the largest yield with relatively high cost. It's really possible to actually have a fortress not produce any of its own food and import it all from outside. Basically, all you need is to bring enough food in the beginning, and then produce enough trade goods to buy all food from caravans. If you really need more... then just wait for the liaisons and get them to prioritize food and drink only.

TIPS
- There's lots of stuff that can get sold well. I personally favour the "kill all merchants and take their stuff" approach, but people like trading prepared food (contradictory?), crafts, weapons, caged animals, and various other stuff that you really can't be bothered to use in your own fortress.
- Watch your food supplies carefully though, it's possible you don't have enough. Not likely, but possible with really, really large forts.

'''3. FISHING'''
This is just a dedicated stream of low yield income. It's practically guaranteed, but the return to cost is quite low. It's nice to supplement the dwarven diet with it, and turtle and lobster shells are important for moods.

The thing about fishing though is that the catch is not immediately edible. You need to process it at the fishery first, which marginally increases the time taken to get from rod to plate.

TIPS
- Actually, unless you love to roleplay, the only reason you ever want to fish is to get shells. But sometimes, you realise that you're not getting any shells, just lots of shads and trout and cave fish. Here's a tip: dig out a channel some distance away from a main water source and channel a water source into that. Then designate that for fishing. You should only get turtles from that.
- I find that a good combo is that for every three dedicated fisherdwarves, one dedicated fish cleaner is needed for the highest efficiency and every fish cleaner should get his/her own fishery.
- "there is no fish left in blablabla" can be safely ignored.

'''4. HUNTING'''
This is almost like fishing, except the returns are usually higher but the risk is higher as well. With hunting, you will also get bones, tallow, and leather. Fishing just gets you bones and shells.

Basically, it's like this; if you are on any map where you yourself are afraid of the animals roaming about, hunting is out of the question. If you're on any evil or savage map, hunting is a good way to get rid of dwarves.

So the only time you would use hunters is when the game are rabbits, bunnies, groundhogs, gnomes, or the like.

TIPS
- Try to train your hunters with marksdwarvenship first. It helps A LOT. Wrestling is good too. But if you're going to do all that, ask yourself if it would be more viable to just make him a marksdwarf and station him outside?
- Hunters sleep outside. They can sometimes be slaughtered by wandering wolf packs while snoozing away.
- Hunters that have no bolts will chase their prey around with their bare hands and can be quite the funny sight.
- Make sure you have a leatherworker, tanner, and butcher before you get a hunting job. If not, it's a total waste and you're better off fishing.
- You can also make an axe-hunter by putting woodcutting and hunting on the same dwarf - won't be catching the fast creatures, but has a better chance against a predator, and doesn't need ammo. -Thanks Othob Rithol
- Lastly, hunting can make your unit list stretch very, very long.
- Add. lastly, hunters are usually the first to die to a siege.

'''5. LIVESTOCK'''
I personally think this is completely and totally unviable and ridiculously stupid to attempt. It's just a last resort or clearance kind of thing. Animals don't reproduce fast enough to feed anyone and don't give any useful byproducts beyond annoyance, lag, and kobold detection.

If you really want to try this, I recommend you learn to micromanage caging so that baby animals are kept in cages, there exists no more than one male of each species, and female animals are slaughtered after they reproduce once or twice.

'''6. COOKING'''
A nice way to increase your food output without really doing anything. All you need is one dedicated cook and a kitchen as well as cookable food. Basically, it turns a few items of food into a lot more items of food that give a happiness bonus depending on cook skill. It also turns unedible food into edible food (tallow, fat, etc.) If you're in a crisis, you can cook seeds too.

Remember that cooking destroys seeds, so you might want to be careful about that.

TIPS
- To train chefs, have them only make easy meals in the beginning because it's the fastest to prepare.
- Cooking alcohol wastes it. So remember to turn off alcohol cooking in the stocks menu.
- Make sure there's enough storage space because if masterpiece meals rot... you're in trouble.
- Prepared food sells for obscenely high prices.

'''7. GATHERING'''
This is the best you can do when you have a food shortage. It has the best returns to time value of all others. Just, you won't get that much and you better invest in another method before you run out of harvestable bushes. Not much to say about it other than you can farm the stuff you harvest. The higher your gatherer skill, the more and faster you get.
'''
8. VERMIN TRAPPING'''
Free food in dire circumstances. You get an unhappiness bonus, and it's usually a sign your fortress is doomed. You can also manually catch vermin which your dwarves can snack on by using animal traps with bait. I don't know why you would want to do that since the bait is usually worth more than the catch... but, it's up to you.

TIPS
-<blockquote>
Heck, you don't even need bait as far as I can tell. Just make a bunch of animal traps, make sure someone has trapping enabled, then set up a Kennel with a repeating "Capture Live Land Animal" task. The trapper should pick up a trap and run around chasing vermin, sticking them in the trap. Just make sure there's an Animal stockpile to put them on.

Even if there's plenty of normal food available, dwarves will occasionally come by and eat the vermin raw, live, and wriggling!
</blockquote>-Thanks Nesoo