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Difference between revisions of "40d:Military"

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(→‎Quick reference: Expanding, double-checking my math. Definitely needs a separate page now.)
(→‎Equipment and encumbrance: leaving in a summary paragraph & linking to new article)
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== Equipment and encumbrance ==
 
== Equipment and encumbrance ==
  
A dwarf with no strength [[attribute]] can only carry 2000Γ before becoming [[encumbrance|encumbered]].  A full suit of metal armour can easily exceed this, especially when weapon(s) are added.  A full suit of steel (or iron) plate, greaves, gauntlets, high boots, helm, and shield weighs 2903Γ.  The civilian clothes dwarves wear under armour can add as much as 171Γ (if everything is made of leather), or even 247Γ if they are wearing a coat; figure on 165Γ given that silk and cloth items, which are common, weigh 70%-80% less than leather.  Add to this a melee weapon, and you're at 3400Γ; any non-strong dwarf will have his or her movement rate reduced to about 60% as a result.  A quiver full of bolts and additional layers of armour can add 1400Γ+ more, resulting in a dwarf reduced to about 40% normal speed.
+
Depending on what equipment you outfit your soldiers with, they can easily become [[encumbrance|encumbered]].  A dwarf with no strength [[attribute]] can only carry 2000Γ without encumbrance, for instance, which is less than the weight of a full suit of chain mail.  A crossbow plus a full stack of metal bolts can weigh as much as 1000Γ by itselfFor full details of equipment weights and recommended combinations of equipment and dwarven abilities, see [[equipment and encumbrance]].
 
 
To avoid this problem, you must ensure that your weaker dwarves carry less equipment.  Any dwarf can handle leather armour, or a hybrid steel-bone chain suit (steel chain, helm, high boots, shield plus bone or shell leggings and gauntlets), weighing 1550Γ.  A full suit of steel or iron chain mail (mail, leggings, gauntlets, helm, and shield) weighs 2157Γ; add clothes and a weapon and your dwarves will only be moving at 75% speed.  A steel-bone hybrid suit (steel plate, helm, high boots, and shield plus bone greaves and gauntlets) weighs almost the same at 2161Γ.
 
 
 
It is possible for dwarves to wear multiple layers of armour; specifically, they can wear leather armour under chain mail, and both leather ''and'' chain under plate mail.  They can also wear either a leather or cloth cap and a steel cap under any kind of helm.  They will not combine any kind of leggings, greaves, or gauntlets.  A steel cap and leather armour will add 173Γ to a chain suit; cap, leather, and chain under a plate suit will add 761Γ.  The figures throughout this section assume no armour layering unless otherwise noted.
 
 
 
=== Weapons and ammunition ===
 
 
 
Weapon weights range from 235Γ for a steel short sword to 628Γ for a steel battle axe.  Most dwarf-usable weapons made of steel, including crossbows, weigh 314Γ.  [[Obsidian]] swords weigh 80Γ, and wooden weapons you can buy from the elven [[caravan]] typically weigh 30Γ or less.  Wooden or bone crossbows weigh about 50Γ.
 
 
 
A stack of 25 iron or steel bolts weighs 588Γ; quivers weigh between 13Γ and 19Γ, depending on their material.  Dwarves will carry a stack of metal bolts in their quivers if any are available, meaning a fully outfitted marksdwarf will be carrying 650Γ-900Γ worth of weaponry, depending on whether their crossbow is metal or bone/wood.  Dwarves carrying crossbows and metal bolts who are not Strong or better should not be assigned more than leather armour (and shield) unless they are being sent into combat.
 
 
 
If you have no bone or wood bolts available, marksdwarves will [[sparring|spar]] (using their crossbows as hammers) instead of practicing at the archery range.  You are better off at this point switching them to "unarmed" and giving them better armour.  Conversely, if you have no metal bolts available, marksdwarves will put wood or bone bolts in their quivers, which weigh 90Γ or less per stack of 25; under such circumstances, you can outfit your wimpiest marksdwarves with steel/bone chain without encumbering them.
 
 
 
=== Non-steel equipment ===
 
 
 
Steel and iron items have the same the same weight and are interchangeable, in terms of encumbrance.  Bronze (and bismuth bronze) items weigh about 5% more than steel or iron.  Copper items weigh 14% more.  Silver items weigh 33% more (silver weapons, due to their low damage, make good sparring weapons).  Bone and shell items weigh about ''14%'' that of steel; leather items weigh 24%; and wood items weigh anywhere from 15% to 1% (in the case of feather tree wood).
 
 
 
Selected pieces of armour can be "downgraded" from the conventional sets by making them unavailable to your dwarves (either by not producing them or forbidding them, as outlined in [[#Swapping weapons and armour|swapping weapons and armour]], above).  Soldiers set to "plate" armour level can still wear light-but-effective bone greaves, for instance, but only allowing them access to chain instead of plate mail saves 589Γ. 
 
 
 
You may also be comfortable having your dwarves wear leather high boots instead of steel (they often do so unbidden anyway), for a savings of 238Γ.  Top-quality bone or leather items offer as much protection as no-quality iron items (and are about 50% better than no-quality copper items), so having a legendary bone carver and leatherworker in your fort should be quite welcome.  Substituting a high-quality leather shield for a low-quality iron or steel one is also worth considering (a savings of 298Γ).  Using a steel buckler instead of a steel shield will reduce encumbrance by 275Γ, although this is not recommended; bucklers supposedly work half as often as shields (although the exact game mechanics are unknown and unlikely to be linear when skill is factored in).
 
 
 
Always put your dwarves in the best helm you can; a steel helm weighs only 157Γ and neck and brain injuries will effectively end a military career.
 
 
 
Backpacks add a negligible amount of weight; 19Γ, plus 5Γ for each unit of food[What is the weight of waterskins and water?]
 
 
 
=== Quick reference ===
 
The following are a set of recommended combinations of equipment and dwarven abilities.  "Steel" means iron or steel (both weigh the same); steel/bone suits have steel for all pieces except for greaves/leggings (plate/chain) and gauntlets.  (Another 238Γ can be saved by using leather high boots instead of steel.)  Steel plate+ means a normal full set of steel plate plus leather armour, steel chain, and a steel cap underneath.  "Effective weight" is the weight of all armour plus 165Γ worth of clothing, plus weapon (if any); armor user skill reduces the weight of clothing and armour, but not weapons or ammo (or shield?), as outlined at [[armor user]].  No-strength dwarves can carry 2000Γ worth of equipment; Strong, 3000Γ; Very Strong, 4000Γ; and so on.
 
 
 
If your equipment is bronze instead of steel, encumbrance penalties will be a few percent worse (provided the dwarf is already encumbered); copper equipment will be about 10%-15% worse.
 
 
 
A steel or iron shield is assumed (and recommended) for all configurations.
 
 
 
{|cellpadding="2" border="1"
 
|+ '''Unarmed or with light weapon'''
 
! Strength !! Armor user skill !! Equipment !! Effective weight !! Speed
 
|-
 
| none || none || Steel/bone chain || 1715Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| none || none || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 2325Γ || 86%
 
|-
 
| none || (no label) || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 1962Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| none || Talented || Steel plate || 1908Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| none || Expert || Steel plate+ || 1904Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel plate || 3088Γ || 96%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 3849Γ || 71%
 
|-
 
| Strong || Competent || Steel plate+ || 2985Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 3849Γ || 100%
 
|}<br />
 
 
 
{|cellpadding="2" border="1"
 
|+ '''With metal melee weapon (~314Γ)'''
 
! Strength !! Armor user skill !! Equipment !! Effective weight !! Speed
 
|-
 
| none || none || Steel/bone chain || 2029Γ || 99%
 
|-
 
| none || none || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 2639Γ || 76%
 
|-
 
| none || Proficient || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 1914Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel plate || 3402Γ || 83%
 
|-
 
| Strong || (no label) || Steel plate || 2897Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Strong || Proficient || Steel plate+ || 2867Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 4163Γ || 92%
 
|}<br />
 
 
 
{|cellpadding="2" border="1"
 
|+ '''With battle axe or 25 metal bolts and bone/wood crossbow (~650Γ)'''
 
! Strength !! Armor user skill !! Equipment !! Effective weight !! Speed
 
|-
 
| none || none || Steel/bone chain || 2365Γ || 85%
 
|-
 
| none || Competent || Steel/bone chain || 2034Γ || 98%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 2985Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel plate || 3738Γ || 73%
 
|-
 
| Strong || Skilled || Steel plate || 2896Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || none || Steel plate || 3738Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 4499Γ || 80%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || (no label) || Steel plate+ || 3851Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Extremely Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 4499Γ || 100%
 
|}<br />
 
 
 
{|cellpadding="2" border="1"
 
|+ '''With 25 metal bolts and metal crossbow (921Γ)'''
 
! Strength !! Armor user skill !! Equipment !! Effective weight !! Speed
 
|-
 
| none || none || Leather || 1763Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| none || none || Steel/bone chain || 2636Γ || 76%
 
|-
 
| none || Adept || Steel/bone chain || 2074Γ || 96%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel/bone chain || 2636Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Strong || none || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 3256Γ || 89%
 
|-
 
| Strong || (no label) || Steel chain ''or'' Steel/bone plate || 2883Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || none || Steel plate || 4009Γ || 99%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 4770Γ || 72%
 
|-
 
| Very Strong || Competent || Steel plate+ || 3905Γ || 100%
 
|-
 
| Extremely Strong || none || Steel plate+ || 4770Γ || 100%
 
|}
 
  
 
== Controlling your squads ==
 
== Controlling your squads ==

Revision as of 05:37, 24 October 2008

Your military comprises the soldiers of your fortress. Pressing m will bring you to the Military screen, which lists your active soldiers at the top of the screen, and potential draftees below them.

About drafting

You can draft any non-noble dwarf in your fortress through the military screen by pressing a on the dwarf in question. Alternatively you can select a dwarf using v -> p, and then press A (Shift + 'a') to draft him or her. A dwarf that has not yet reached hero or champion status may be un-drafted by the same method.

If you draft dwarves without any (non-dabbling) combat skills, it will generally give them an unhappy thought. Dwarves with little or no (non-dabbling) civilian skills will not like being undrafted.

Immigrant nobles will not show up in the military screen, and cannot be drafted. Appointed administrators do appear on the list, and can be drafted. However their military duties will interfere with their civilian ones, making it unwise to draft your administrators (the sheriff being a notable exception). It is worth noting that drafting the dwarf whom the liaison has targeted will cause said dwarf to cease all other non-priority activities (i.e. everything but eating, drinking, resting, sleeping, etc.) and will proceed to Conduct Meeting.

Promotion / squads

Pressing m will lead you to the military screen. Here you can promote dwarves and create squads. This is done by pressing Enter on recruits.

  1. Select the dwarf you want to be squad leader.
  2. Press Enter (-> promote).
  3. Use arrow keys to select the dwarf you want to be his subordinate.
  4. Press Enter.
  5. Repeat for each dwarf you want in the squad.
  6. Press Space space to exit promotion mode.

To remove a dwarf from a squad select them and then press Enter again.

You can do complex chains of command this way if the first dwarf you selected was already in a squad (he'll become leader of a sub-squad) though I don't know if that has any use right now. If you want to take a dwarf out of his squad, promote him and select himself as a subordinate.

Note that there are restrictions to who can lead whom: you can't make a hero subordinate to a normal military dwarf, nor a champion subordinate to anyone other than another champion, nor any non-recruit soldier subordinate to a recruit. Dwarves who become heroes will automatically become leaders of their squads if the current leader is less experienced.

Choosing weapons and armour

Pressing m and then w will show you a screen containing:

  • Shortened names for weapon types.
  • A number indicating the number of weapons you want them to carry (note: this is not dual wielding, this is the dwarf carrying a backup weapon slung across their back in case the first weapon becomes stuck in a combatant)
  • A shortened name for the level of armour they should aim to wear and the shield they should carry.

Note: Giving a dwarf a weapon will affect their non-military professions, if the weapon in question conflicts with their labour tasks. For instance, issuing a mace to a dwarf will cause them to discard an axe they were carrying for woodcutting, or a pick they were using for mining.

When a dwarf is drafted into the army he or she will go pick up his or her equipment, if it is available (a dwarf set to fight with a sword will fight unarmed until a sword is forged), and when released back to civilian life, will drop this equipment. Exceptions being dwarves with the 'woodcutter' labour enabled who carry an axe while in civilian mode, and dwarves with the 'hunting' labour enabled who carry a crossbow and leather armour while in civilian mode.

Miners set to fight unarmed will use their pick as a weapon, and get damage bonuses from their Mining skill level.

Swapping weapons and armour

Frustratingly, a soldier will not necessarily choose the best-quality weapon available. Thus a speardwarf might choose a -bronze spear- rather than a ≡steel spear≡ if given the chance. A marksdwarf might pick up a single iron bolt rather than your stack of *steel bolts [25]*. When equipping your dwarves for active duty, you will generally want them to use the best weapons available; when dwarves are set to spar, you generally want them to use the worst weapons available. Unless you are saving your good armour for a certain dwarf, you will always want your soldiers to be equipped with the best possible armour.

Swapping weapons and armour is a frustrating and somewhat time-consuming process. It is easiest if you make different stockpiles for your best and your worst-quality weapons. Creating a stockpile only for high-quality steel and iron weapons or armour will make it easier to find the weapon or armour you want to give your dwarf. Likewise, a special stockpile for low-quality silver or wooden weapons will make it easier to assign the right sparring weapon.

There are two ways to swap weapons and armour. The simpler way is to use the military menu. This process will let you swap out your soldier's weapon or entire suit of armour:

  1. Press m to access the military menu.
  2. Find the soldier whose weapon or armour you want to remove, and set them to Unarmed or armour- and shield-less.
  3. Watch the soldier until he or she removes his or her equipment.
  4. Next, designate all of your current weapons or armour (hopefully all of which are in your stockpiles)) as forbidden. Then manually find the weapon or armour piece(s) that you want your dwarf to pick up, and designate it, or them, to be reclaimed.
  5. Return to the military menu and re-designate the soldier to have the weapon and/or armour you want.
  6. Wait until your newly-naked dwarf realizes his or her situation and decides to Pickup Equipment. If you have properly forbidden all other weapons or armour, the dwarf should make a beeline for your weapons or armour stockpile, and don the right item(s).
  7. Reclaim your stockpiles of weapons or armour for regular use.

The other way to swap out weapons or armour, which is particularly useful to replace an individual piece of armour but not the entire suit, is as follows:

  1. Make sure you have an area (any area) assigned as a garbage dump.
  2. Find the soldier whose weapon or armour you want to replace, by using the view command and going to the dwarf's inventory. Select each item you want the soldier to get rid of, then hit Enter to view it. Press d to mark it for dumping. When you select an item to be dumped, it will create a hauling job for a civilian dwarf, who should presently arrive to cart the weapon off to your junk pile. If you want to save the weapon, catch the hauler before he or she reaches your dump and un-designate the weapon; alternatively, find it in the dump and reclaim it.
  3. As with step 4 above, designate all of your current weapons or armour as forbidden. Manually find the weapon or armour piece(s) that you want your dwarf to pick up, and designate it, or them, to be reclaimed.
  4. As with step 5 above, wait until your newly-naked dwarf realizes his or her situation and picks up the proper equipment.
  5. Reclaim your stockpiles of weapons or armour for regular use.

Equipment and encumbrance

Depending on what equipment you outfit your soldiers with, they can easily become encumbered. A dwarf with no strength attribute can only carry 2000Γ without encumbrance, for instance, which is less than the weight of a full suit of chain mail. A crossbow plus a full stack of metal bolts can weigh as much as 1000Γ by itself. For full details of equipment weights and recommended combinations of equipment and dwarven abilities, see equipment and encumbrance.

Controlling your squads

By pressing x you will select squads near your marker. You can station the squads at the current cursor position if the squad in question is on-duty. Squads will fight and pursue hostile creatures until they or the enemies are dead or the squad moves too far from its station. Squads can be set to pursue regardless of how far they move from their station and to attack wild animals (along with various other options) via the military screen, in the view squad submenu. For more information on fighting, see combat.

Food and water

Under the view squad menu, you can order squads to carry water and/or food along with them. To carry water the dwarves need access to waterskins, and to carry food they need backpacks. This can be useful when sending your military out on long patrols.

Training / sparring

Wrestling or melee weapon-equipped squads that you marked as "off duty" by the squad-management screen in the military screen will head to the barracks and begin sparring to train their skills. Soldiers with crossbows will go to a shooting range to practice.

Cross-training (starting a reserves program)

Cross-training your military dwarf candidates in civilian disciplines has multiple benefits. First, and most importantly, it gives you several extra stat increases. Toughness, especially, is extremely important for military dwarves; it allows them to take more wounds before passing out from pain, and to recover from wounds faster. Second, it provides a ready pool of recruits in case your military takes a beating at one point or another. Third, it ensures that your dwarves have some domestic skills so they will not receive unhappy thoughts from being dismissed from the military in the event you need to downsize. Finally, most reserves programs provide chronic idlers with some work to do, which can be essential for unskilled workers like peasants to break out of their poverty (and therefore, unhappiness) cycle once the dwarven economy kicks in. There is nothing saying you have to use only one of these ideas; they are all various approaches to solving this problem.

The biggest thing to remember with a reserves program is that if you're going to go, you go all the way. Don't institute something 'just for a little while' and come up with a handful of novice reservists; they will not get significant stat increases and you'll only waste time. Time is not something you have a heck of a lot of in a reserves program, typically. Remember that after you draft them, most dwarves are going to need about a year of sparring or training before they're ready for heavy combat. You might not have that much time if you are getting sieges regularly.

Gym (pump operator)

The Gym is the most basic sort of reserves program; it merely consists of building a bunch of screw pumps connected to nothing in a room that's close to food, beds, and drink. After the pumps are built, order them to be pumped manually, then turn on pump operating for your reservists.
Pros:

  • Easy to set up; 4 pumps in the gym will keep at least 8-10 reservists busy around the clock.
  • Extra pumps can be added to expand operations very easily.
  • Requires no continuous oversight on your part.
  • Somewhat fast training; legendary in under a year (if other responsibilities like hauling are minimized).
  • Very safe; gyms can be placed anywhere in the comfort of your fortress with no issues.

Cons:

  • Tons of cancel job spam. Every time a reservist exhausts himself and goes to satisfy his basic needs, you'll see "<dwarf> cancels Operate Pump: Exhausted."
  • If you have any pumps around that actually DO need to be operated every so often (refilling your well, for example), it could be a serious pain to juggle the useless gym pumps and the ones that are actually useful.

Artillery proving ground (siege operator)

Mass-produce some catapults, line them up near a quarry, and fire away. Works well to dispose of stone from a gulag (see below).
Pros:

  • Trains a skill that's reasonably useful, and provides a place to put all the sub-par siege engine components your siege engineer will doubtlessly create if you're going for superior-quality engines.
  • Harasses the wildlife, which is always fun.

Cons:

  • Very slow to train (2+ years for legendary).
  • Fairly space-consuming to set up a well-designed and usable proving ground.
  • Can be dangerous depending on the biome (especially when elephants are present. If they get winged by a stray boulder, you can bet they're going to be coming straight at you).
  • Siege operators are civilians, and will run in fear when an enemy approaches them.

Internship (bookkeeper)

Turn on highest precision bookkeeping and rotate the appointed noble in and out the second he becomes a legendary bookkeeper.
Pros:

  • Requires no extra infrastructure at all.
  • You need a bookkeeper anyway!
  • Totally safe; a bookkeeper spends basically all his discretionary time snug in his office.
  • Trains outrageously fast; if the office is very close to food, beds, and drink, a bookkeeper can be legendary or close to it in a mere season.

Cons:

  • Only employs one dwarf at a time; not useful when you have 15-25 candidates for the reserves.
  • No announcement when the current intern reaches Legendary status means you can lose time on rotation easily.

Gulag (miner)

The gulag is basically a strip mine that is located far away from your main fortress (so you don't have to worry about accidentally screwing up your own building plans; if you are careful in planning, it may be placed closer to your fortress). Take a big square and start leveling it; it's really no more complicated than that. Since picks can actually be used as weapons, it's worthwhile to give the reservists who will be working in the gulag picks made out of iron, or, if you are really living large, steel. Note that you will have to turn your usual mining corps (the civilian miners who are already experienced with mining) off for this setup to work properly.
Pros:

  • Soldiers enter the military with an emergency weapon in their hand already; this can be critical in the case of speardwarves, who have a habit of losing their weapons in an enemy, or marksdwarves, who are forced to use the hammerdwarf skill in melee, which they may not even have.
  • Toting a pick for close-quarters support might make a legendary bowyer more useful, since the pathetic bludgeon damage of his wood and bone crossbows are less important.
  • Can be quite useful for producing stones you might not have access to normally, or uncovering veins of precious metals.
  • Levels quite fast in sand.
  • Relatively little oversight from you.
  • An overland hike to the gulag will fight cave adaptation in your military candidates.

Cons:

  • Juggling your real miners and your reservists when there's real work to be done on the fort can be a chore.
  • Hard to keep dwarves in the gulag for too long; they'll inevitably get hungry, thirsty, and tired and start hiking back to the fortress proper.
  • Can be dangerous, depending on the biome.
  • Does require some amount of oversight from you, especially when your reservists start getting better at mining and run out of work more quickly.

Renovation (stone detailing)

Another convenient way to buff up your dwarves, assigning your reservists to mass stone detailing duty increases your fortress' architectural wealth and makes the place look nicer. While they may clutter the halls somewhat, it doesn't require any special allocation of food, beds or drink. Just turn on stone detailing for your reservists and mark up as much of the fortress as you like for renovation.
Pros:

  • Even easier to set up; just assign your dwarves and an area and you're good to go.
  • Increases your fortress' value and general happiness.
  • Requires no continuous oversight on your part.
  • Very safe, if you only assign areas inside the fortress.

Cons:

  • Wealth overflow may bring too many immigrants.
  • Serious conflict with engraving assignments; trying to engrave with poorly trained engravers wastes a lot of wealth that essentially comes from nothing.
  • Careless designation of smoothing areas may have your dwarves trying to smooth walls too close to magma or a river.

Sweatshop (mason)

Make one or more mason's workshops in an area with a bunch of junk stone you don't care about, or that you're actively looking to clear. Change the workshop settings to allow only your reservists to use it, then tell the workshop to churn out crafts, junk furniture, stone blocks, and trade goods that you can trade en-masse. Alternatively, forbid your reservists from working in your real mason's workshops, order lots of stone constructions built, and pray that your real masons stay too occupied with the workshops to intrude. Works well in conjunction with a gulag. Alternate ideas for sweatshops include a mechanic's workshop or a magma glass furnace to train mechanic and glassmaker respectively. Note: Do NOT try this with the carpenter skill, or any other resource you don't have in near-limitless abundance. Sweatshops will consume huge amounts of their associated resources, and if you run out mid-way you have probably wasted your time. This includes coke or charcoal used in the normal (non-magma) glass furnace.
Pros:

  • Quantitatively turns a profit. The inferior trade goods can be dumped on the next caravan for more useful commodities like bags, seeds, and logs. Logs are especially useful, since you'll inevitably stamp out lots of bins to support the trade good output.
  • Mass-producing blocks makes your constructions higher value, without actually consuming the stone. Anything a rock is used for, a block can be used for.
  • Unlike many other training programs, Sweatshops train a skill that is very useful.

Cons:

  • Slow to level.
  • Hard to keep the reservists on task, since they'll need to do plenty of hauling to keep their workshop from becoming chokingly cluttered.
  • Can be a logistical nightmare; making bins and organizing hauling for the finished goods can be insane if you're working from a gulag.
  • Can be dangerous depending on the biome and location of your sweatshops.

Overview

  • The gym is the best way to train large amounts of dwarves, though it is relatively slow compared to other methods.
  • Artillery training can give you some siege operators, which will be useful if you have ballistae.
  • The internship is very fast, but only trains up one dwarf at a time. Your stocks could also lag behind if you are unlucky.
  • The gulag requires planning, and your dwarves in the fortress proper may run all the way to the gulag to grab a stone for some crafts, a chair, etc. It does, however, train your dwarves in mining quickly, which is always a useful skill.
  • Renovation is hands-free, but may bloat your fortress wealth too quickly.
  • The sweatshop creates a large amount of goods, which can be traded away to keep traders happy. It also increases your wealth by quite a lot, which can be good or bad depending upon your situation. The goods are also difficult to manage.

Army corps of engineers

Your actual soldiers are obviously only one facet to your military preparation. defensive structures like fortifications, moats, and above-ground bunkers need civilian support. Further, siege engines can only be crewed by civilians, which complicates things somewhat.

The incredible amount of effort required to complete full defensive preparations on many maps (even building a single-floor above ground bunker can take multiple seasons of full-time effort) means that the military can benefit greatly from having a corps of dwarves to support the development full time.

Organizing a corps of engineers requires extra effort and planning on your part, but pays off big later on. Corps engineers become incredibly useful and will produce superior, happiness-inducing structures and items even after their chief issues are done. Also, since their highest strange mood eligible skill tends to be masonry, it improves your chances of getting a legendary mason, which is always a treat.

Organizing

The bread and butter skills of the engineer corps are mechanics, masonry, architecture, and, optionally, siege operating. Candidates really don't need any prior skills, but if you can throw some immigrants that come with one of these skills already, awesome. Note, however, that in its infancy, the engineer corps is going to be producing fairly little, so you should not use any dwarves who are fairly important. Assign potash makers, soapers, and the like instead. Miners that have run out of digging work and are suddenly idle are also good candidates. You may wish to swap masonry with carpentry if you are doing a challenge where your structures are chiefly made out of wood, but the jist of it is the same.

A suitable number of engineer corps members is 5 to 6 for most fortresses. As a rule of thumb, it's most productive to keep the Engineer Corps at about 7-10% of your population, rounded down. This might seem like a lot when you have the fortress guard demanding 10%, the royal guard demanding another 5%, plus what dwarves you have committed to reserves programs or in the regular army. Remember, though, that engineer corps members are civilians and can be pulled away from their normal work for large hauling tasks when the need arises; you will not feel many downsides to occupying them.

After you've decided who you want in the engineer corps, it's suggested that you give them a custom rank. They behave so much like normal civilians that it's hard to keep track of them if you don't. Don't use "Engineer", because that can be a dwarf's auto-rank.

After your main fortress is mined out and things are relatively settled, build some mason's workshops for the corps to work out of. Build as many as you have corps engineer members, to make sure that everyone is guaranteed to have work, and do it in areas that are suffused with stone, preferably in low-traffic areas, but be careful about noise. Corps workshops are extremely noisy, so don't build them too close to bedrooms. A good place to start is near your stockpiles, because stone in your stockpiles interferes with the items you can put there.

Training

After the corps' workshops are set up, we'll need to change the workshop profiles to make sure the regular masons don't use them. You can do this one of two ways:

  • Go down the Allowed Users list and enable each of the engineer corps' members individually. Tedious, but very effective. Also allows you to stick with the same engineer corps for a long time.
  • Lower the max skill threshhold to "Proficient". Useful if you're more interested in training masons than keeping a static engineer corps.

Then, set the corps' workshops to produce stone blocks. Put it on repeat. Keep it there. This is going to be the corps' only job for it's few seasons, to train up masonry.

Why are we building blocks?: A couple of reasons.

  • 1) Blocks have no quality modifier. That means that your dabbling mason engineer corps members are producing blocks every bit as good as your legendary masons.
  • 2) Blocks can be used in building constructions. What was the Corps' first job? Building, of course!
  • 3) Blocks make higher-value constructions than normal stone. Constructions made out of stone will become "Rough (rock) (construction)", while block constructions will eliminate the rough modifier and contribute more to the fortress's wealth.
  • 4) Blocks can be organized into bins or simply left in the workshop, reducing stone clutter. This is important for planning stockpiles.
  • 5) Blocks make it easier to budget stone for constructions, so you can see if you're running low on material or using more than you expected.

All along the training process, you should, of course, be building constructions as needed. Greenhouse floors and basic walls are extremely important and should not be delayed. This just provides a nice blueprint to making an effective engineer corps.

After you're satisfied with where the masons are (no-tag is a good place to be), move on to training mechanics. Shut down the mason's workshops and build mechanic's workshops right next to them. Start churning out mechanisms. After you've got a decent handful, you may decide to build experience by building and deconstructing levers, or linking them all a door. Don't go too overboard with training mechanics. Again, no-tag is a good place to be. Mechanics are not used enough to warrant going all out.

After you're done with mechanics, switch to architecture. The easiest way to do this is to build a bunch of supports around the mason's workshops (16 total). Use the blocks you've been producing. After they're done, tear them down to reclaim the block, then put them back up again. This trains both architecture and masonry, giving you more net experience, but stagnating block production. Further, as long as architecture is not enabled on your regular masons, they will not interfere with the training. Architecture is useful, because dwarves trained in it will erect buildings faster, and seeing them will cause happy thoughts. Factor in how easy it is to train up and it's a no-brainer. Of course, feel free to stop this at any time to attend to more urgent matters.

After the architecture is at proficient or so, you can, at your discretion, enable the siege operating labor to train the engineer corps in the use of artillery. This is mainly to give them an actual military use, and since cross-training them like this reduces the military's overall impact on your society. If you've got enough dwarves to make a separate artillery corps, go right ahead.

The payoff

After the training starts taking hold, you will have a cadre of proficient building designers, proficient masons, skilled mechanics, and (optionally) proficient siege operators. This can happen in as little as 3 years of training. You can (and should!) continue to train them until they are legendary in all of these, but that is very long term. In the shorter, 3 year term, you have a rock-solid foundation to react to any construction demand with speed, efficiency, and awesome quality.

See also