Difference between revisions of "40d:Your first fortress"

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This is a guide to help new players get started on their first [[fortress]] and teach them the basics of keeping their [[dwarf|dwarves]] alive. If you have unanswered questions or find given details confusing, please tell us so on the [[Talk:Your_first_fortress|discussion page]]! Above all else, always remember the [[Dwarf Fortress]] motto: "Losing is {{L|fun}}!"

We discuss generating a world, choosing a fortress location, buying {{L|skill}}s and items, and playing the first month or so. Setting game initialization options is covered in {{L|technical tricks}}. The advice here is biased for safety; with a little experience you'll do better with strategies customized for your play style and preferred start locations.  For more extended treatment of particular subjects, consult the linked pages or the rest of the Dwarf Fortress Wiki.

It all starts here. The first thing to do when starting Dwarf Fortress is to {{L|World generation |create a world}}. Later on, you may wish to tweak the parameters to suit your play style, but for now, the ''Create New World Now!'' option is an easy way to get into your first game.

The engine will start to create the world -- watch it unfold! You might notice that worlds are rejected, sometimes even after the generator begins running rivers and lakes. This is normal, as the generator seeks a world which meets the criteria for optimum Dwarven {{L|Fun}}.

Once you've generated a world you will return to the main screen and there will be a new option, <tt>Start Playing</tt>. Upon selecting that you can choose the game mode - {{L|Dwarf fortress mode|Dwarf Fortress}}, {{L|Adventure mode|Adventurer}}, or {{L|Legends}}. This article is written with respect to Fortress mode.

See the article on {{L|world generation}} for a complete guide to the world generation screen.

[[Forest]]:  Many parts of the game are dependent on creating wood items, so if you choose a location without any trees, the game will be more {{L|fun}} (aka more complex).

[[Water]]: {{L|Wound}}ed dwarves require water to drink, so having a water source near your first fortress so your injured don't die of thirst will be helpful.

[[Animals]]: Some {{L|biome}}s will have fewer animals to hunt for meat to feed your dwarves, so tropical and temperate biomes might be simpler. However, bear in mind that not all animals are friendly, so it might be wise to do some research on an area that you're thinking about starting in to get a good handle on what type of creatures might populate it.

[[Image:FortressLocation_fd2f10.png | caption | This picture is shown with the default tileset. Other {{L|tilesets}} are available]]

* '''[[Temperature]]''': How hot or cold it gets in the area.  Can be ''Freezing'', ''Cold'', ''Temperate'', ''Warm'', ''Hot'', and ''Scorching''.  In a nutshell, temperature extremes make it harder to get and keep a reliable source of {{L|water}} going.  In Freezing and Scorching climates, you may have to do without water at all.  Temperate and Warm are both good places to start your first fort.<br><br>

* '''Amount of [[tree]]s, and [[plant|other vegetation]]''': A general indication of the density of plant life in the area.  For trees, this can be ''none'', ''scarce'', ''sparse'', ''woodland'', or ''heavily forested''.  For other plants, you can see ''none'', ''scarce'', ''moderate'', and ''thick''.  Trees are chopped down for {{L|wood}}, which is a critical, if small, part of your fortress.  You can import lots of it from {{L|trading|caravan}}s, so don't worry too much about it.  However, more trees never hurt anyone, and totally treeless maps are quite a bit more difficult in the early going, so aim for ''sparse'' or greater trees.  Other plants basically means shrubs, bushes, and other vegetation that you can harvest food from with the {{L|plant gathering}} skill.  Generally speaking, you will use this trick in the first year of your fortress, then never again.  {{L|Plant}} density is not very important.<br><br>

''Good'' zones tend to have benign mythological creatures, like the {{L|unicorn}} (which can be incredibly dangerous, but only if provoked), while ''evil'' areas have a multitude of {{L|undead}} and some of the most vicious {{L|creature}}s in the game, which need no provocation to tear your dwarves limb from limb.  For your first fortress, stick to a ''neutral'' or ''good'' alignment.<br><br>

* '''Major land forms''': A last field, which will not always be full, will mention things you should know about, like {{L|river}}s.  Rivers provide an unlimited source of {{L|water}}, but can be home to dangerous fish like the {{L|longnose gar}} and {{L|carp}}.  Still, though, the benefits generally far outweigh the risks.  {{L|Volcano}}es are also noted here, one of the only guaranteed ways to get {{L|magma}}.  Magma makes a few things a lot easier, but it is dangerous to work with and must be handled very carefully because of the {{L|fire imp|horrible}} {{L|magma man|creature}}s that come out of it.  Not critical, especially not for your first time out.<br>

Sometimes, you'll be looking at a place with more than one {{L|biome}} in the same selected square.  You can press {{k|F1}} {{k|F2}} {{k|F3}} or {{k|F4}} to view the different types of biomes.  In the picture above, we are looking at the mountain in the center, which is cold and has no trees or plants because it's too high up for those things to grow.

These are nearby {{L|civilization}}s that are capable of interacting with you. Other settlements are shown with various symbols on the regional map.  The possible entries here are ''dwarves'', ''humans'', ''elves'', ''goblins'', and ''kobolds''.

* '''[[dwarf|Dwarves]]''': You will want to be in contact with dwarves to get [[immigrant]]s and a dwarven trading caravan. However, dwarves are, sometimes seemingly magically, everywhere.  It is impossible to settle anywhere ''without'' dwarves, assuming there is at least one surviving dwarven civilization.  Depending on how remote the area is, though, you may not get some of the features of the game you would otherwise: being cut off from the world will prevent most {{L|noble}}s from coming to your fort, which will stop the {{L|dwarven economy}} from ever being activated.  You may also not get a {{L|liaison}} with your dwarven caravan from which to request goods.

* '''[[Humans]]''': Humans are almost always friendly, and love {{L|trade}}.  They send {{L|liaison}}s to let you request goods and are generally a huge boon to any fortress.

* '''[[Elves]]''': Elves are usually friendly and make fair trading partners, but have a {{L|Trade#Elves|particular ethos}} about trading.  They do not send a trade {{L|liaison}} and their goods are luxuries at best.  They can be very annoying, but are generally not dangerous unless you provoke them.

* '''[[Goblin]]s''':  Goblins are your main enemies in Dwarf Fortress, and will produce most of the aggression against your fort.  They periodically launch ambushes, consisting of five to ten goblin warriors, and will send {{L|siege}}s after your fort reaches 80 dwarves.  {{L|Trap}}ped entrances, {{L|Dog#War_Dogs|war dog}}s, and eventually a {{L|military}} will be needed to repel them.  Just be sure not to start in the middle of a goblin citadel.

Relative {{L|Z-axis|elevation}}. This is a normal topographic map that you're used to from real-life maps.  It just gives you an idea of the lay of the land.

{{L|Ramp|Slope}} steepness. This shows you where large cliffs are. Be advised that {{L|cliff}}s of elevation 4 or more mean taller maps, which take significantly more computer power to run. On the other hand, many find completely flat embark sites to be dull -- a good elevation map contains lots of low elevation changes ranging from 1 to 4. However, choosing areas partly or entirely above the tree line gives you much more stone, ore, and gems to work with, and the hills even provide decent protection against invaders, especially if you start removing natural ramps. It's your choice in the long run, particularly if you don't really care about performance.

When you're satisfied with your area and hit {{k|e}} to embark, you may get some alerts about being in a very difficult area, or about an {{L|aquifer}}.  Aquifers can make it frustrating to get started, so if you are alerted about an aquifer, seriously consider moving somewhere else for your first fortress.  After you have the basics down, tackling an aquifer is much easier.

* ''Neutral''-aligned {{L|surroundings}} are best for your first fortress, but ''good''-aligned surroundings are also OK.  Avoid ''evil''-aligned surroundings, however.

* Running water ({{L|river}}s, streams, and {{L|brook}}s) are a permanent source of {{L|water}}. {{L|Murky pool}}s and [[underground pool]]s have a finite amount of water and may dry out.  Not having enough water can be a big obstacle, so try to get some running water your first time out.

* {{L|Human}}s and {{L|Elf|elves}} are friendly, so an area they have access to is nice.

* {{L|Magma}} is cool (hah!), but not critical.

* Areas with {{L|aquifer}}s require some engineering to get to rock. You'll be warned if you chose an area with an aquifer. When in doubt, don't try it.

** If you insist on starting in an area with an aquifer, read up on the dangers of aquifers, and, if at all possible, choose an embark site that includes an aquifer-less {{L|biome}}.

For more information on specific game mechanics such as {{L|sand}}, {{L|flux}}, and how to find {{L|iron}}, check {{L|Stone layers|this page}}.

Once you've decided on location, you need to decide the size of your fortress area.  This is the size of the game field you're playing on.  Advantages of requesting a large local area include more raw materials, greater diversity of {{L|Stone|rock}}s and special underground features, and the ability to include desired terrain (such as a river, a forest, or a magma vent). Disadvantages include slower game performance (larger areas require more CPU power), higher likelihood of merchants failing to reach your {{L|trade depot}} before they run out of time, and more risk of losing immigrants as they struggle to your front gate. (Note that you can {{L|Mining|mine}} many levels deep into the ground, and even a 3x3 area generally contains more raw materials than you're ever likely to need.)

When done, hit {{k|e}} to embark. A warning may appear if you've chosen a challenging site, or one with an {{L|aquifer}}.

There are as many possible ways to approach setting up as there are fortress locations. The {{L|starting builds}} page offers several examples for you to choose from.  Here, we are only going to discuss some basics that help you understand enough to make your own decisions.  The embark screen opens up on the ''skills'' screen, and can be changed to the ''items'' screen by pressing {{k|TAB}}.

In a fledgling fortress, the 4 indispensable jobs are {{L|mason}}, {{L|miner}}, {{L|grower}}, and {{L|Carpenter|carpenter}}.  A good beginning strategy is to embark with at least 1 dwarf being ''proficient'' in these 4 skills.  Many people choose to double up on proficient miners and growers, since mining and farming are both pretty big jobs.

* '''[[Cook]]:''' Cooks make prepared meals in the {{L|kitchen}}, which helps you manage your food stock space.  Well-prepared meals are also valuable {{L|trade}} goods, and make dwarves happy when eaten.  Highly skilled cooks make better meals, and prepare meals faster.

* '''[[Brewer]]:''' Brewers make {{L|Alcohol|booze}} in the {{L|still}}.  Dwarves being dwarves, they need alcohol to operate at peak efficiency, and highly-skilled brewers make better tasting booze and finish brewing faster.  Dwarves get happier when they drink good booze.

* '''[[Herbalist]]:''' Herbalists gather food and seeds from {{L|shrub}}s in the local area.  Skilled herbalists pick faster and come away with far more food.  Where an unskilled herbalist will come away with one {{L|wild strawberry}} or none at all, a proficient herbalist will often pick 3 or 4, and sometimes 5.

* '''[[Woodcutter]]:''' Woodcutters fell {{L|tree}}s for use by {{L|Carpenter|carpenter}}s.  Highly skilled woodcutters fell trees much faster.  However, since you don't need that much wood, you can get away with a normal (no tag) woodcutter just fine.

* '''[[Mechanic]]:''' Mechanics build and use {{L|mechanism}}s, which have myriad uses in {{L|trap}}s, {{L|lever}}s and some {{L|Machine component|machine}}s.  Highly skilled mechanics finish installing mechanisms much faster, and the mechanisms they build are of higher quality.  However, the quality of the mechanism primarily matters to beginning players for its {{L|trade}} value, and in early fortresses the need for mechanisms is usually so small that any dwarf can pick it up and handle it well enough.  Still, a solid choice, especially if you like {{L|trap}}s.

* '''Military skills ([[Wrestler]], [[Axedwarf]], [[Hammerdwarf]], etc):''' Early on, it's unlikely that you'll need these, since there's generally very few things that will bother a band of dwarves who aren't hurting anyone, but certain places, such as those with a {{L|chasm}}, will have hostile creatures around.  In these areas, you may consider giving your woodcutter the Axedwarf skill so he can use his chopping axe as a weapon. A miner can "pinch-hit", since the {{L|Mining}} skill also covers wielding a pick in combat, but the dwarves don't understand this yet, so a drafted miner will get unhappy {{L|thought}}s.

* '''Social skills ([[Appraiser]], [[Judge of Intent]], [[Consoler]], etc):''' Putting these on one dwarf will make them a shoo-in for the Expedition Leader slot, and ranks in Appraiser and Judge of Intent will make interacting with the first caravan much easier.  However, even if you don't train this at all, some persistence in trading with the first caravan will level your leader up enough to trade with the second caravan like a champion.

Once again, examples can be found in the {{L|starting builds}} page.  What you bring is incredibly dependent on your play style, though.  Some people think bringing Mechanics along is a total waste of time, others consider them indispensable.  Some people like having skills that aren't even on this list, like {{L|Leatherworker}}.  Read the starting builds, ask questions, and explore!  Who cares if your first idea doesn't work out after playing an hour?  Restarting is easy and ''losing is fun''.

Now that we're done with assigning skills, hit {{k|TAB}} to go over to the item screen.  Item worth is another extremely situational thing, and you'll find as many opinions as there are Dwarf Fortress players as to what is good to bring.  Once more, it depends VERY heavily on your play style.  Again, {{L|starting builds}} can provide some good example reading.  This section will only cover the basics and give you enough information to make your own decisions.

<li>'''[[Battle axe]]s''':  Every {{L|Wood cutter|Woodcutter}} needs an axe. Steel battle axes are the only type you can purchase on this screen, and they're expensive. You might want to bring just one, unless you expect to need a lot of lumber and/or axedwarf muscle.</li>

<li>'''[[Pick]]s''': Likewise, {{L|Miner}}s need picks.  All picks work equally well, their material only determines the damage they do in combat.  Thus, copper picks are the budgeting dwarf's choice, at a paltry 20☼ each.</li>

<li><p>'''[[Anvil]]''': One of the big questions to ask yourself is whether to bring an anvil on embark.  It's extremely expensive at 1000☼, but to start a {{L|metal}} industry, you will either have to start with one or request and purchase (or steal!) one from a {{L|caravan||trading}} somewhere down the line.</p>

<p>One occasional problem is that axes and picks are absent entirely.  If this is the case (or you just don't want to spend all that money), you can bring the materials to {{L|make your own weapons}}.</p>

* A good alternative ore to bring along, and not much more expensive, is {{L|tetrahedrite}} - when {{L|Smelter|smelt}}ed, it yields one copper bar with a 20% chance of an additional {{L|silver}} bar each.  Silver is a good metal for {{L|metal crafter}}s, or you can have an unskilled worker forge a practice weapon out of silver for training - silver is tied with wood for the safest material for practice weapons, and you have to trade with elves for wooden ones.

* Other mixes of ores, to create bronze or bismuth bronze, etc, are possible - as you learn about the game you'll decide what works best for you, and in what starting situations.

*Fuel and metal in hand, deconstruct the smelter (if needed; {{k|q}} to highlight, then {{k|x}} to deconstruct), and construct a {{L|metalsmith's forge}}.  Make sure someone has {{L|weaponsmithing||weaponsmith}} on.  After the forge is up, order it to make the axes and picks you need.  Deconstruct the forge when you're done and enjoy your new tools, hopefully with {{L|quality}} modifiers!</li>

*'''[[Metal]]''': Generally not recommended.  However, if you're expecting trouble and you're bringing an anvil, bringing many bars of {{L|iron}} and {{L|charcoal}} in lieu of a {{L|Dwarven weapon#Battle_axe|battle axe}} can be a big boon.  If your dwarves can get to a spot that gives them a breather, a proficient {{L|weaponsmith}} or {{L|armorsmith}} could stamp out high-quality goods to give your dwarves a better fighting chance.  This is a pretty advanced trick to pull off, though, so don't try to pull it if you're not confident.

*'''[[Wood]]''': Wood is a bargain at only 3☼ per log, and the 100 logs you can bring in exchange for a steel battle axe will last you a long time.  This is a great technique for making {{L|Wood cutter|Woodcutter}} unneeded in the early game, but you need to budget your wood use for the first year very carefully.  When you're out, you're out!

*'''[[Leather]]''':  Leather is cheap at 5☼ per for the cheapest.  Bring a few to make extra bags for gathering plants - don't worry if you don't have a {{L|leatherworker|leather worker}}, you don't much care about a quality multiplier for bottom-value items like leather bags.  If you are going to make your own leather armor (early or later), consider bringing someone with leather working skill.

*'''[[Food]]''': Most food comes at a mere 2☼ per unit, and 8 units will feed 1 dwarf for a year.  Bringing a year of food will give you a good cushion to getting your farms working, so aim for about 60 food if you can.  If you must cut back, though, 40 will be fine if you make your farms an early priority.  The best food staple to bring along is {{L|turtle}}.  Turtle produces {{L|shell}} and {{L|bone}}s when eaten, which can be used as raw materials for other things you need, including armor, crossbows, and crossbow bolts.  Further, shell is a common request for {{L|strange mood}}s and is a pain to produce, so getting some early could save yourself a failed mood and a dead dwarf.

*'''{{L|Alcohol|Booze}}''': Dwarves drink twice as often as they eat, and they always want to down some alcohol if at all possible.  They also like different kinds of alcohol.  Bring twice as much booze as you bring food, and divide it evenly among the 4 types of alcohol you can take (dwarven wine, dwarven beer, dwarven ale, dwarven rum). Even more nifty, check the booze preferences of your 7 dwarves on embark and allocate the 4 kinds accordingly. Plump helmets (wine) and pig tails (ale) are fast growing, so you might take less of those, particularly if no dwarf has a preference for them. Too much booze is a real barrel hogger but this problem is far off. More booze is better 99% of the time.

*'''[[Seeds]]''': Your farms have got to start somewhere.  Definitely bring along {{L|plump helmet|plump helmet spawn}} (for food and booze) and [[pig tail]]s (for cloth ropes and booze variety).  How many you bring is dependent on how big you want your initial farms to be.  5 of each is plenty to feed your initial dwarves, and you will get more seeds any time the plants are consumed in any way ''except cooking''.  You may want to use the {{L|kitchen}} menu to disallow cooking of plump helmets until you have a healthy supply of seeds.  Or, alternatively, just don't make any prepared meals until you've got a healthy supply of seeds.  The other seed types require a lot more labor to use properly, and should probably wait until you have more dwarves in the fortress.  You can buy seeds from the dwarven caravan for almost nothing, but if you want a greater variety along, go for {{L|Quarry bush|rock nuts}}.  The {{L|quarry bush}} that sprouts from it produces the greatest space to yield ratio in the game.  Eventually, though, you should be planting all 6 of the underground {{L|crop}}s at least.

Food and booze are stored in {{L|barrel}}s, with each type in its own barrel.  Since barrels have a 10-unit capacity, you can get a lot of free barrels by starting with many, many kinds of food in quantities which end in 1.  Barrels are important, and usually need wood to make, so it's worth it to use this quirk while you can by starting with at least one unit of every type of food.

Seeds are stored in {{L|Container||bag}}s in multiples of 100, also by type. Bags are cheap and easy to make, and not as important as barrels, since making cloth bags is a good way to train up your {{L|clothier}}, so it's not recommended to spend the extra to get 1 free bag.

*'''[[Dog]]s''':  Dogs are dwarf's best friend.  They can be trained into {{L|Dog#Hunting_Dogs|hunting dog}}s or {{L|Dog#War_Dogs|war dog}}s, require no food or maintenance, and make good pets for your dwarves.  Always bring at least 2.  Genders alternate when picking them up, so 2 will give you a breeding pair that will have more puppies freely.  They make fantastic security early and fantastic dwarfsaving distractions later on.  Dogs will happily lay down their lives to protect their master, which is huge when it means one of your best legendary dwarves is running away from an angry {{L|goblin}}.

*'''[[Cat]]s''': Cats provide a wonderful function in controlling {{L|vermin}} in the fort.  Vermin can make your dwarves extremely unhappy, so some cats are more or less a requirement.  The largest problem with cats, however, is that their population is very difficult to control.  Cats will choose their own owners (without the dwarf in question's consent), and after they've done so, you cannot order them butchered to control their numbers.  The resulting {{L|catsplosion|population explosion}} can clutter hallways and murder your framerate.  The best thing to do is to put all stray cats and kittens in a {{L|cage}} (one will hold them all).  You can then butcher them without running the risk of the cats adopting dwarves before the butcher gets around to them, and if vermin start to get out of hand, you can always release one or two to help.  If you want vermin control from the start, bring just ONE cat so it cannot breed and cause a population problem early.  However, immigrants will very commonly bring their pet cats to the fortress, so if you can live with vermin early, you'll likely get a cat for free within a year.  Or, be prepared to cage and slaughter them aggressively for meat and hides - that can work too.

Once again, check the {{L|starting builds}} page for more ideas, read the pages linked above, and experiment.  The learning process is half the fun in Dwarf Fortress; enjoy it!

You'll have to decide where you're going to dig in and start your fortress.  You should consider the natural formations of the surrounding area when deciding where you want your main entrance.  Ideally, there should be one way in and one way out.  This one way should be fairly sizable, to pander to {{L|Trading|caravans}} and {{L|traffic}}.  Proximity to a good {{L|water}} source so you can build a {{L|well}} more easily is also desirable.  You can fix either of these things with extra digging and building later on, though, so don't sweat the decision too much.

The most direct way to start is to find the side of a nearby mountain and dig into it, but if you're in a very flat area, you might have to dig downward instead.  To start digging, hit {{k|d}}esignations, then {{k|d}}ig.  Move your cursor using the arrow keys to where you want to dig, and hit {{k|ENTER}}, then move your cursor over to the place you want the digging to end.  Mining designations are rectangular, so you can go both left and right and up and down as you're designating area.  This tells your dwarves to cut into a wall and hollow it out, often leaving behind a {{L|stone}} if it is a rock wall.  {{L|Soil}} walls become hollowed out, but never drop anything.  These hollowed out areas are where you'll build the vast majority of everything you need.

If you need to dig down instead of in, you need to use either a '''{{L|stairs|stairwell}}''' or a '''{{L|ramp}}'''.  For a stairwell, use {{k|d}}esignations, and downward stairway ({{k|j}}).  Note that this is only half of a stairwell.  To build the other half, you must go down a z-level ({{k|>}}) and {{k|d}}esignate an {{k|u}}pward stairway to connect to it.  You are then underground and can use {{k|m}}ining normally.  For a ramp, you must go down a z-level ({{k|>}}) and {{k|d}}esignate a {{k|r}}amp on the area you want cut away.  You do not need to build anything above it; your miners will figure it out.  If you are building downward and want {{L|Trading|caravans}} to come down into your fortress, you will need to use {{L|ramp}}s, at least 3 right next to each other.  Keep this in mind when deciding where you want to dig down.

When designing your main entrance, be mindful that as many as 200 dwarves could be coming and going eventually, and that {{L|goblin}}s are going to want in at some point or another.  A 3-wide entrance corridor is ideal.  It is wide enough to accept a good amount of traffic and caravans, but narrow enough to use diabolical traps and designs to kill lots of goblins.  Your main doors will have to be only 2-wide, though, as {{L|door}}s require a wall adjacent to them to build properly.

Once you've decided where you want your main entrance, it's time to move your supplies over there.  We will have to set them outside for now, but we'll want to move them indoors as soon as we can.  Press stock{{k|p}}iles, and designate areas for {{k|f}}ood, {{k|w}}ood, and {{k|r}}efuse.  You can designate all sorts of stockpiles from this screen, so hit {{k|t}} and poke around in the custom stockpile settings for a little bit, figuring out what you can do.  Do '''NOT''' designate a stone stockpile for now.  It will eat up a lot of time unnecessarily.  While we're organizing our supplies, deconstruct your wagon by pressing {{k|q}}uery, putting the cursor over your wagon, and pressing deconstruct ({{k|x}}).  A dwarf with the {{L|carpenter}} labor enabled will come by and pull the wagon apart, turning it into 3 {{L|Wood|log}}s.  The wagon is useless to you, so there's no reason to not do this. Some people prefer to wait until the wagon has been emptied before deconstructing it. In order to see the contents of a building, use the {{k|t}} command and scroll over the wagon.

Time to get some work done!  Taking in raw materials and spitting out stuff that's useful: that's the name of the game for workshops.  You should start putting down workshops as soon as you have raw materials.  You'll need to get basic living provisions like {{L|bed}}s, [[table]]s, {{L|Throne|chair}}s, {{L|Container|chest}}s, and the like down for not only your first 7 dwarves, but the {{L|Immigration|immigrant}}s that could come at any time as soon as possible, so you can't waste any time.<br>

Once the workshop has been built by a dwarf with the {{L|Mason|masonry}} {{L|labor}}, you can {{k|q}}uery the workshop to find out what it's current orders are, {{k|a}}dd or {{k|c}}ancel orders, set an existing order to {{k|r}}epeat,  order the workshop dismantled, and other tasks.

Add orders for a {{k|d}}oor, a {{k|t}}able, and a {{k|c}}hair. Stone chairs will show up as ''thrones'' in the orders.  They are exactly the same.  Then set each order to repeat.  This workshop will now make {{L|door}}s, [[table]]s, and {{L|throne|chair}}s until you tell it to stop.  You'll need a lot of these, so that's OK.

Also build a {{L|carpenter's workshop}} near the wood stockpile you designated earlier, and tell it to make {{k|b}}eds.  Put this on {{k|r}}epeat, also.  The wood you brought along, even after disassembling your wagon, won't last long. If you brought along a {{L|Wood cutter|woodcutter}}, now would be a good time to get him to chop down some trees.  Hit {{k|d}}esignations, and then hit chop down {{k|t}}rees.  Chopping designations work exactly like mining designations, but it will only highlight trees in the rectangle you give it.  Don't worry about chopping a ton of wood right now; trees don't go anywhere fast, so you can always come back for more.

While making workshops anywhere the material happens to be works fine right now, you will want a more organized way of doing it later.  Check out the {{L|Design_strategies#Workshop_Logistics|workshop logistics}} page for ideas on how to set it up.  After you do get things set up, be sure to move your stockpiles underground; above-ground stockpiles are vulnerable to thieves and are usually a long way away.  Don't be afraid to tear down workshops; they are built quickly and easily, and tearing them down does absolutely nothing harmful, even returning the materials used in their construction.  Be aware that workshops create {{L|noise}} when they are in use, which can disturb your dwarves' sleep, so don't build them close to any {{L|bed}}s.

Tell your miners to dig out a large (5x5 minimum) room to become your {{L|barracks}}.  The barracks is essentially a communal sleeping room where dwarves without their own apartment can come to crash.  It is also the place where your {{L|military}} will come to {{L|sparring|spar}} once you start recruiting soldiers.  Since your military hangs out in the barracks a lot, it's a good idea to put it near the main entrance of the fortress.  If {{L|Thief|thieves}} stumble in, they are likely to meet a very grisly end as they bump into a pair of dwarves in the middle of combat training, and later, in case of a more major attack, they are more likely to be closer to where you need them.  Note, however, that sparring dwarves can very seriously {{L|wound|hurt}} or kill each other if their sparring area is too crowded, so keep beds stacked along one wall and the rest of the room clear and uncluttered.  You do not need too many beds in the barracks right now.  Beds in the barracks are public, and dwarves have their own schedules, so the entire fortress will not sleep at once.

After the barracks is dug, tell your dwarves to {{k|b}}uild a {{k|b}}ed.  Your cursor will come up, turning red on an unacceptable location and green on an acceptable location.  Unacceptable locations will give you a short reason as to why they're unacceptable.  Again, just stack beds against one wall of the barracks; 5 beds will be fine to start out with.  After indicating the placement of the beds, your dwarves will haul them over and install them.  Once they are installed, {{k|q}}uery a bed, then make a {{k|r}}oom.  Use the {{k|+}} and {{k|-}} keys to size the room that will be considered the barracks.  All beds within the flashing square will be considered public, so there's no need to do this more than once.  Fill up the whole 5x5 area ({{k|b}}uild {{k|d}}oors if you need to cordon off the area to make it a nice square) and hit {{k|ENTER}}.  You've created your first {{L|room}}!  A room status screen shows up.  Be sure to hit {{k|b}} to confirm that it is a barracks.  If you don't, the first dwarf that sleeps in this room will claim it as his or her apartment, which isn't what we want.<br>

The barracks will keep your dwarves from sleeping on the floor, which would make them {{L|thought|unhappy}}.  As the game goes on, though, it is a very good idea to move dwarves into their own apartments.  They get much {{L|thought|happier}} for it, it keeps traffic down, and provides you with some more diabolical options such as locking a troublemaker in his room by {{k|q}}uerying the door and {{k|l}}ocking (forbidding) it.  See the {{L|bedroom design}} page for ideas on how to set up your apartments.<br><br>

With bedding handled, we need to set up a {{L|dining room}}, which will double as our {{L|Activity zone#Meeting_Area|meeting area}}.  Dwarves will eat in their apartment sometimes if you install a table and chair in it, but mostly, dwarves prefer to eat in a public {{L|dining room|dining hall}} with a table all to themselves.  As the meeting area, dwarves will also show up there whenever they have nothing better to do (have 'No Job') to socialize and kill time.  It is a pretty high-traffic area, so be sure to use double-doors as the entrance and exit. It should again be fairly large (25 tiles minimum; this could be 5x5, 4x6, whatever suits your fancy).  Once it's dug out, {{k|b}}uild {{k|t}}ables along the walls, and then {{k|b}}uild {{k|c}}hairs next to the tables, one per table.  Once a table is laid out, {{k|q}}uery the table and make a {{k|r}}oom out of it.  Fill up the dining hall area, and hit {{k|ENTER}}.  Be sure to hit {{k|h}} to set it as a meeting area, and you're done here.

As with most kinds of furniture, dwarves can walk through tiles containing tables, chairs and beds. The most notable exception to this are {{L|statue}}s.

{{L|Farming}} is the most reliable source of food in the game, and the only way to be sure you're going to feed a large population.  The catch is, we can only farm on {{L|mud}} or {{L|soil}}.  Mud is only created through {{L|irrigation}}, which is complicated and more trouble than it's worth if you have access to any serious quantity of soil.  Avoid using irrigation if you can.  The logistics of controlling enough water to make arable land on stone are extremely annoying.

On {{L|soil}}, however, farming couldn't be easier.  Simply mine out an area of soil (underground, since the seeds you can embark with will NOT grow aboveground), then {{k|b}}uild a farm {{k|p}}lot.  Use {{k|u}}, {{k|m}}, {{k|k}}, and {{k|j}} to resize your plot to the size you want; 3x3 should be plenty to start out, and you will max out at roughly 30 to 40 total squares being used for food and booze production to support a full fortress.  This changes some depending on the skill of your {{L|grower}}s, but it's a fair guideline.  After placing the farmland, a dwarf with the Farming (Fields) labor enabled will come by and prepare it for use.  After it's done, {{k|q}}uery the new field and decide on your crops for each season.  The crop display will show every crop that can possibly be planted there - it does not necessarily mean you have seeds to plant.  {{L|Plump helmet}}s are best for your first field, since they can be brewed to {{L|Alcohol|booze}}, eaten raw, and cooked.  If you find some seasons have red letters, that is because the season has already passed and you cannot edit it again this year.  You will have to pick it up in the spring of the following year.  Be aware that Dwarf Fortress will '''NOT''' give you an error if you attempt to plant something you have no seeds of.  It will give you an error if you '''run out''' of seeds after starting planting, but not if you simply have none to begin with.  If you can't remember what kind of seeds you have, check around your wagon and your designated food stockpile using {{k|k}} for a seeds bag.  Hit {{k|Enter}} when you find it to inspect the bag and see what kind of seeds it carries.  Later on, you will be able to find it more easily using the {{k|z}} key and the "Stocks" menu, but right now your stocks will lack the precision to use the "zoom" key.  See the {{L|bookkeeper}} article for more information on stockpile precision.

Eventually, you will want to be planting many, many different kinds of crops.  {{L|Dimple cup}}s are great later on, because they produce {{L|dye|dimple dye}}, which can be used to increase the value of the clothing your fortress produces.  {{L|Cave wheat}} can be used to provide fodder for luxury prepared meals, and to make more brewing fodder.  As your fortress grows and you need more and more luxuries to keep everyone happy, diversifying can only help you.   

On a note about {{L|irrigation}} before wrapping this section up, mud behaves almost identically to soil.  All below-ground crops can be grown equally well on either, and you build and place the plots exactly the same.  There are a few differences, though.  Mud can be {{L|Farming#Increasing_yield|fertilized}} with {{L|potash}}, while dry soil cannot.  Some above-ground crops can only be grown in mud, while others can only be planted in dry soil.  Check the {{L|crop}}s page for more details.  Irrigation is a very advanced technique that provides only marginal benefits.  Some "unlivable" areas can be turned around with skillful irrigation and fertilizer, but by and large they're not necessary.  Just use soil whenever you can.

First, we'll take care of a few organizational considerations, to make trading easier.  Our carpenter will take care of this, since he's done making beds.  Order up 2 or 3 {{L|bucket}}s.  Buckets are used to carry water to injured, bedridden dwarves from water source {{L|Activity zone|zone}}s and are one of the requirements to building a {{L|well}}.  Then, get to work stamping out some {{L|bin}}s.  Bins are used to store a lot of non-perishable items in the same square; they work much the same as {{L|barrel}}s, but barrels are used on perishables like food and booze.  You'll need a LOT of bins, but for the moment 5 or so will do.  You will also need to make a lot of barrels, but since you brought a number of them with you, you can hold off a bit. Both of these can be made from {{L|metal}} as well, but producing them from wood is far more economical.

Since you have all this stone lying around, let's put it to use. Build a {{L|Craftsdwarf's workshop}}, assign one of your dwarves to {{L|Stone crafter|stonecrafting}}. Order this {{L|workshop}} to build rock {{k|c}}rafts of all sorts {{k|r}}epeatedly. Stone mugs are a good trade good - you get three mugs from one stone, adding up to 30☼ at the start. Since your stonecrafter will level up relatively quickly (and if you have several dwarves working on stonecrafts) this can quickly add up to several thousand coins worth of goods.

Now that you've got some goods to {{L|trade}}, we'll need to {{k|b}}uild a trade {{k|D}}epot. Build this somewhere easily accessible from all edges of the map, but close to (or inside) your entrance. {{L|Trade depot}}s require {{L|Building designer|architecture}} and a {{L|mason}}, assuming you make it out of your copious quantities of stone.  Many times you will not have an {{L|building designer}} on embark, so you will have to assign one to get the architecture phase of the depot done.

In the long term, you'll want your trade depot to be in a defensible spot. As it is 5x5 squares, and requires a 3-square wide path for the caravans to get in and out of it, you'll eventually want to spend some time thinking about its {{L|Defense guide|defense}}. Once the depot has been completed, you can check for depot access using the {{k|shift}}-{{k|D}} key.

The first caravan will come in your first autumn: the dwarven caravan from the mountainhomes.  When it comes, the game will pause, you'll be notified, and the screen will center on the {{L|trading|caravan}}.  If you do not have a depot, or they can't get to it, they will wait on the edge of the map for you to build a depot they can get to, or to clear the obstructions.  The two most common obstructions are {{L|tree}}s and [[boulder]]s.  Trees can be chopped down, and boulders can be eliminated by {{k|d}}esignating them to be {{k|s}}moothed.  This uses the {{L|stone detailing}} labor, so turn it on if you need.

After the caravan is on its way, you'll need to fill the depot with things to trade, and get a trader there to broker the negotiations.  Hit {{k|q}}uery over the depot and press {{k|g}} to start moving supplies.  Use the arrow keys to navigate the trade goods window.  If you've been making stone crafts, you'll want the ''crafts'' heading to make the game filter out the bins you've been filling.  Otherwise, you'll have to sift through every stone you've created while digging the fortress, which is a huge pain.  Press {{k|ENTER}} on the bins to mark them for trading, and some dwarves will come along to haul the bins to the depot.  Once that's taken care of, {{k|q}}uery the depot and {{k|r}}equest a trader there.  By default, only the broker will trade at the depot.  This is generally what you want, since brokers with better {{L|Appraiser|appraisal}} skills can see the worth of all the commodities and tend to get away with giving the caravan boss a lower profit margin on the trade.  Trading at the depot is a low-priority job, though, so you may have to turn off your broker's other labors temporarily to get him to respond to the request in a timely manner.  Once your broker is at the depot, {{k|q}}uery the depot and start {{k|t}}rading.